THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  ILLINOIS 
LIBRARY 

From  the  collection  of 
Julius  Doerner,  Chicago 
Purchased,  1918. 

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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2017  with  funding  from 

University  of  Illinois  Urbana-Champaign  Alternates 


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THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


VOL.  II. 


LONDON : 


GEORGE  WOODFALL  AND  SON, 

ANGEL  COURT,  SKINNER  STREET- 


THE 


BIBLE  IN  SPAIN; 

OR,  THE 

JOURNEYS,  ADVENTURES,  AND  IMPRISONMENTS 
OF  AN  ENGLISHMAN, 

IN 

AN  ATTEMPT  TO  CIRCULATE  THE  SCRIPTURES 

IN 

THE  PENINSULA. 

BY  GEORGE  BORROW, 

AUTHOR  OF  “THE  GYPSIES  OF  SPAIN.’' 

IN  THREE  VOLUMES. 

VOL.  II. 

FOURTH  EDITION. 

LONDON : 

JOHN  MURRAY,  ALBEMARLE  STREET. 


1843. 


NOW  READY, 


MR.  MURRAY’S  HANDBOOK 

FOR 

FRANCE  AND  THE  PYRENEES. 

NORMANDY,  BRITTANY, 

THE  RIVERS  LOIRE,  SEINE,  RHONE,  AND  GARONNE  ; 

THE  FRENCH  ALPS, 

DAUPHINE,  PROVENCE,  AND  THE  PYRENEES. 

With  5 large  Travelling  Maps.  Post  8vo,  12s. 


?/#  6 
ttfc 

VA 


CONTENTS  OF  VOL.  II. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Arrival  at  Madrid — Maria  Diaz.— Printing  of  the  Testa-  1 ^ 

ment.— My  Project  — Andalusian  Steed Servant  wanted. 

— An  Application.— Antonio  Buchini.  — General  Cordova.— 
Principles  of  Honour 


CHAPTER  II. 

Illness — Nocturnal  Visit.— A Master  Mind The  Whisper.— 

Salamanca.  — Irish  Hospitality.  — Spanish  Soldiers The 

Scriptures  advertised .21 

CHAPTER  III. 

Departure  from  Salamanca.  — Reception  at  Pitiegua.—  The 

Dilemma.  — Sudden  Inspiration.  — The  Good  Presbyter 

Combat  of  Quadrupeds — Irish  Christians Plains  of  Spain. 

— The  Catalans.  The  Fatal  Pool. — Valladolid.— Circulation 

of  the  Scripture — Philippine  Missions English  College.— 

A Conversation. — The  Gaoleress 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Duenas — Children  of  Egypt.  — Jockeyism.— The  Baggage 
Pony.— The  Fall — Palencia.— Carlist,  Priests The  Look- 
out— Priestly  Sincerity.— Leon.— Antonio  alarmed Heat 

and  Dust 


&763PS 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  V. 


Page 

Astorga. — The  Inn. — The  Maragatos.— Habits  of  the  Mara- 
gatos. — The  Statue .92 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Departure  from  Astorga The  Venta. — The  By-path. — 

Narrow  Escape. — The  Cup  of  Water Sun  and  Shade. — 

Bembibre. — Convent  of  the  Rocks, — Sunset. — Cacabelos. — 
Midnight  Adventure. — Villafranca 101 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Villafranca. — The  Pass. — Gallegan  Simplicity. — The  Frontier 
Guard. — The  Horse-shoe.  — Gallegan  Peculiarities. — A Word 
on  Language.— The  Courier. — Wretched  Cabins. — Host  and 
Guests. — Andalusians 125 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Lugo. — The  Baths. — A Family  History. — Miguelets. — The 
Three  Heads. — A Farrier. — English  Squadron. — Sale  of 
Testaments. — Coruna — The  Recognition. — Luigi  Piozzi. — 

The  Speculation.— A Blank  Prospect.— John  Moore  . .147 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Compostella. — Rey  Romero. — The  Treasure-seeker. — Hope- 
ful Project. — The  Church  of  Refuge. — Hidden  Riches. — The 

Canon. — Spirit  of  Localism. — The  Leper Bones  of  Saint 

James 173 

CHAPTER  X. 

Skippers  of  Padron.  — Caldos  de  los  Reyes.  — Pontevedra.  — 

The  Notary  Public. — Insane  Barber. — An  Introduction. — 
Gallegan  Language. — Afternoon  Ride. — Vigo. — The  Stranger. 

— Jews  of  the  Desert. — Bay  of  Vigo. — Sudden  Interruption. 

— The  Governor 194 


CONTENTS. 


YU 


CHAPTER  XI. 


Page 

Arrival  at  Padron. — Projected  Enterprise. — The  Alquilador. 

— Breach  of  Promise. — An  Odd  Companion. — A Plain  Story. 

— Rugged  Paths. — The  Desertion. — The  Pony. — A Dia- 
logue.— Unpleasant  Situation. — The  Estadea. — Benighted— 

The  Hut.— The  Traveller’s  Pillow  .....  220 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Autumnal  Morning The  World’s  End.  — Corcuvion. — 

Duyo The  Cape.  — A Whale. — The  Outer  Bay. — The  Ar- 
rest.— The  Fisher- Magistrate. — Calros  Rey.— Hard  of  Belief. 

— Where  is  your  Passport? — The  Beach. — A mighty  Liberal. 

— The  Handmaid. — The  Grand  Baintham. — Eccentric  Book. 

— Hospitality  .........  248 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Coruna. — Crossing  the  Bay. — Ferrol. — The  Dock- Yard.  — 
Where  are  we  now? — Greek  Ambassador. — Lantern- Light. — 

The  Ravine. — Viveiro.  — Evening. — Marsh  and  Quagmire. — 

Fair  Words  and  Fair  Money The  Leathern  Girth — Eyes  of 

Lynx. —The  Knavish  Guide  ......  280 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Martin  of  Rivadeo. — The  Factious  Mare. — Asturians.— 
Luarca. — The  Seven  Bellotas.  — Hermits.— The  Asturian’s 
Tale.— Strange  Guests.— The  Big  Servant Batuschca  . 304 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Oviedo. — The  Ten  Gentlemen. — The  Swiss  again. — Modest 
Request. — The  Robbers. — Episcopal  Benevolence. — The  Ca- 
thedral.—Portrait  of  Feijoo  ......  324 


Vlll 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


Page 


Departure  from  Oviedo. — Villa  Viciosa. — The  Young  Man 

of  the  Inn Antonio’s  Tale. — The  General  and  his  Family. 

— Woful  Tidings. — To-morrow  we  die. — San  Vincente. — 
Santander. — An  Harangue. — Flin ter  the  Irishman  . .341 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Departure  from  Santander. — The  Night  Alarm. — The  Black 
Pass . 361 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

State  of  Affairs  at  Madrid. — The  New  Ministry.  — Pope  of 
Rome.— The  Bookseller  of  Toledo.  — Sword  Blades. — Houses 
of  Toledo. —The  Forlorn  Gypsy.  — Proceedings  at  Madrid. — 
Another  Servant 367 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Euscarra.—  Basque  not  Irish.  — Sanscrit  and  Tartar  Dialects. — 

A Vowel  Language. — Popular  Poetry. — The  Basques. — Their 
Persons.— Basque  Women  384 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


CHAPTER  I. 

ARRIVAL  AT  MADRID MARIA  DIAZ. — PRINTING  OF  THE  TESTA- 
MENT  MY  PROJECT. — ANDALUSIAN  STEED. — SERVANT  WANTED. 

AN  APPLICATION.— ANTONIO  BUCHINI GENERAL  CORDOVA. 

PRINCIPLES  OF  HONOUR. 

On  my  arrival  at  Madrid  I did  not  repair  to  my 
former  lodgings  in  the  Calle  de  la  Zarza,  but  took 
others  in  the  Calle  de  Santiago,  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  palace.  The  name  of  the  hostess  (for  there 
was,  properly  speaking,  no  host)  was  Maria  Diaz, 
of  whom  I shall  take  the  present  opportunity  of 
saying  something  in  particular. 

She  was  a woman  of  about  thirty-five  years  of 
age,  rather  good-looking,  and  with  a physiognomy 
every  lineament  of  which  bespoke  intelligence  of 
no  common  order.  Her  eyes  were  keen  and  pene- 
trating, though  occasionally  clouded  with  a some- 
what melancholy  expression.  There  was  a par- 
ticular calmness  and  quiet  in  her  general  de- 


VOL.  II. 


a 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  I. 


meanour,  beneath  which,  however,  slumbered  a 
firmness  of  spirit  and  an  energy  of  action  which 
were  instantly  displayed  whenever  necessary. 
A Spaniard  and,  of  course,  a Catholic,  she  was 
possessed  of  a spirit  of  toleration  and  liberality 
which  would  have  done  honour  to  individuals 
much  her  superior  in  station.  In  this  woman, 
during  the  remainder  of  my  sojourn  in  Spain,  I 
found  a firm  and  constant  friend,  and  occasionally 
a most  discreet  adviser : she  entered  into  all  my 
plans,  I will  not  say  with  enthusiasm,  which,  in- 
deed, formed  no  part  of  her  character,  but  with 
cordiality  and  sincerity,  forwarding  them  to  the 
utmost  of  her  ability.  She  never  shrank  from  me 
in  the  hour  of  danger  and  persecution,  but  stood 
my  friend,  notwithstanding  the  many  inducements 
which  were  held  out  to  her  by  my  enemies  to  de- 
sert or  betray  me.  Her  motives  were  of  the  no- 
blest kind,  friendship  and  a proper  feeling  of  the 
duties  of  hospitality ; no  prospect,  no  hope  of  self- 
interest,  however  remote,  influenced  this  admir- 
able woman  in  her  conduct  towards  me.  Honour 
to  Maria  Diaz,  the  quiet,  dauntless,  clever  Cas- 
tilian female,  I were  an  ingrate  not  to  speak 


Ch.  I.] 


MARIA  DIAZ. 


3 


well  of  her,  for  richly  has  she  deserved  an  eulogy 
in  the  humble  pages  of  “ The  Bible  in  Spain.” 

She  was  a native  of  Villa  Seca,  a hamlet  of  New 
Castile,  situated  in  what  is  called  the  Sagra,  at 
about  three  leagues’  distance  from  Toledo : her 
father  was  an  architect  of  some  celebrity,  parti- 
cularly skilled  in  erecting  bridges.  At  a very 
early  age  she  married  a respectable  yeoman  of 
Villa  Seca,  Lopez  by  name,  by  whom  she  had 
three  sons.  On  the  death  of  her  father,  which 
occurred  about  five  years  previous  to  the  time  of 
which  I am  speaking,  she  removed  to  Madrid, 
partly  for  the  purpose  of  educating  her  children, 
and  partly  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  from  the  go- 
vernment a considerable  sum  of  money  for  which 
it  stood  indebted  to  her  father  at  the  time  of  his 
decease,  for  various  useful  and  ornamental  works, 
principally  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Aranjuez. 

0 

The  justness  of  her  claim  was  at  once  acknow- 
ledged; but,  alas!  no  money  was  forthcoming,  the 
royal  treasury  being  empty.  Her  hopes  of  earthly 
happiness  were  now  concentrated  in  her  children. 
The  two  youngest  were  still  of  a very  tender  age ; 
but  the  eldest,  Juan  Jose  Lopez,  a lad  of  about  six- 

13  2 


4 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  I. 


teen,  was  bidding  fair  to  realize  the  warmest  hopes 
of  his  affectionate  mother : he  had  devoted  him- 
self to  the  arts,  in  which  he  had  made  such  pro- 
gress that  he  had  already  become  the  favourite 
pupil  of  his  celebrated  namesake  Lopez,  the  best 
painter  of  modern  Spain.  Such  was  Maria  Diaz, 
who,  according  to  a custom  formerly  universal  in 
Spain,  and  still  very  prevalent,  retained  the  name 
of  her  maidenhood  though  married.  Such  was 
Maria  Diaz  and  her  family. 

One  of  my  first  cares  was  to  wait  on  Mr.  Vil- 
liers,  who  received  me  with  his  usual  kindness. 
I asked  him  whether  he  considered  that  I might 
venture  to  commence  printing  the  Scriptures  with- 
out any  more  applications  to  government.  His  re- 
ply was  satisfactory : “ You  obtained  the  permission 
of  the  government  of  Isturitz,”  said  he,  “ which  was 
a much  less  liberal  one  than  the  present.  I am  a 
witness  to  the  promise  made  to  you  by  the  former 
ministers,  which  I consider  sufficient.  You  had 
best  commence  and  complete  the  work  as  soon 
as  possible,  without  any  fresh  application  ; and 
should  any  one  attempt  to  interrupt  you,  you  have 
only  to  come  to  me,  whom  you  may  command  at 


Ch.  I.]  PRINTING  OF  THE  TESTAMENT. 


5 


any  time.”  So  I went  away  with  a light  heart, 
and  forthwith  made  preparation  for  the  execution 
of  the  object  which  had  brought  me  to  Spain. 

I shall  not  enter  here  into  unnecessary  details, 
which  could  possess  but  little  interest  for  the 
reader ; suffice  it  to  say  that,  within  three  months 
from  this  time,  an  edition  of  the  New  Testament, 
consisting  of  five  thousand  copies,  was  published 
at  Madrid.  The  work  was  printed  at  the  esta- 
blishment of  Mr.  Borrego,  a well  known  writer  on 
political  economy,  and  proprietor  and  editor  of 
an  influential  newspaper  called  El  Espahol.  To 
this  gentleman  I had  been  recommended  by  Is- 
turitz  himself,  on  the  day  of  my  interview  with 
him.  That  unfortunate  minister  had,  indeed,  the 
highest  esteem  for  Borrego,  and  had  intended 
raising  him  to  the  station  of  minister  of  finance,, 
when  the  revolution  of  the  Granja  occurring,  of 
course  rendered  abortive  this  project,  with  per- 
haps many  others  of  a similar  kind  which  he 
might  have  formed. 

The  Spanish  version  of  the  New  Testament 
which  was  thus  published,  had  been  made  many 


G 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  I. 


years  before  by  a certain  Padre  Filipe  Scio,  con- 
fessor of  Ferdinand  the  Seventh,  and  had  even 
been  printed,  but  so  encumbered  by  notes  and  com- 
mentaries as  to  be  unfitted  for  general  circulation, 
for  which,  indeed,  it  was  never  intended.  In  the 
present  edition,  the  notes  were  of  course  omitted, 
and  the  inspired  word,  and  that  alone,  offered  to 
the  public.  It  was  brought  out  in  a handsome 
octavo  volume,  and  presented,  upon  the  whole,  a 
rather  favourable  specimen  of  Spanish  typography. 

The  mere  printing,  however,  of  the  New  Testa- 
ment at  Madrid  could  be  attended  with  no  utility 
whatever,  unless  measures,  and  energetic  ones, 
were  taken  for  the  circulation  of  the  sacred 
volume. 

In  the  case  of  the  New  Testament,  it  would  not 
do  to  follow  the  usual  plan  of  publication  in 
Spain,  namely,  to  entrust  the  work  to  the  book- 
sellers of  the  capital,  and  rest  content  with  the 
sale  which  they  and  their  agents  in  the  provincial 
towns  might  be  able  to  obtain  for  it,  in  the  com- 
mon routine  of  business ; the  result  generally  be- 
ing, the  circulation  of  a few  dozen  copies  in  the 


Ch.  I.] 


MY  PROJECT. 


7 


course  of  the  year ; as  the  demand  for  literature 
of  every  kind  in  Spain  was  miserably  small. 

The  Christians  of  England  had  already  made 
considerable  sacrifices  in  the  hope  of  dissemi- 
nating the  word  of  God  largely  amongst  the 
Spaniards,  and  it  was  now  necessary  to  spare  no 
exertion  to  prevent  that  hope  becoming  abortive. 
Before  the  book  was  ready,  I had  begun  to  make 
preparations  for  putting  a plan  into  execution, 
which  had  occupied  my  thoughts  occasionally 
during  my  former  visit  to  Spain,  and  which  I had 
never  subsequently  abandoned.  I had  mused 
on  it  when  off  Cape  Finisterre  in  the  tempest ; 
in  the  cut-throat  passes  of  the  Morena ; and  on 
the  plains  of  La  Mancha,  as  I jogged  along  a little 
way  ahead  of  the  Contrabandista. 

I had  determined,  after  depositing  a certain 
number  of  copies  in  the  shops  of  the  book- 
sellers of  Madrid,  to  ride  forth,  Testament  in 
hand,  and  endeavour  to  circulate  the  word  of 
God  amongst  the  Spaniards,  not  only  of  the 
towns  but  of  the  villages ; amongst  the  children  not 
only  of  the  plains  but  of  the  hills  and  mountains. 
I intended  to  visit  Old  Castile,  and  to  traverse 


8 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  I. 


the  whole  of  Galicia  and  the  Asturias, — to  esta- 
blish Scripture  depots  in  the  principal  towns,  and 
to  visit  the  people  in  secret  and  secluded  spots, — 
to  talk  to  them  of  Christ,  to  explain  to  them  the 
nature  of  his  book,  and  to  place  that  book  in 
the  hands  of  those  whom  I should  deem  capable 
of  deriving  benefit  from  it.  I was  aware  that 
such  a journey  would  be  attended  with  consider- 
able danger,  and  very  possibly  the  fate  of  St. 
Stephen  might  overtake  me  ; but  does  the  man 
deserve  the  name  of  a follower  of  Christ  who 
would  shrink  from  danger  of  any  kind  in  the 
cause  of  Him  whom  he  calls  his  Master  ? “ He 

who  loses  his  life  for  my  sake,  shall  find  it,”  are 
words  which  the  Lord  himself  uttered.  These 
words  were  fraught  with  consolation  to  me,  as 
they  doubtless  are  to  every  one  engaged  in  pro- 
pagating the  gospel  in  sincerity  of  heart,  in 
savage  and  barbarian  lands.  

I now  purchased  another  horse ; for  these 
animals,  at  the  time  of  which  I am  speaking, 
were  exceedingly  cheap.  A royal  requisition 
was  about  to  be  issued  for  five  thousand,  the  con- 


Ch.  I.] 


ANDALUSIAN  STEED. 


9 


sequence  being,  that  an  immense  number  were 
for  sale,  for,  by  virtue  of  this  requisition,  the 
horses  of  any  person  not  a foreigner  could  be 
seized  for  the  benefit  of  the  service.  It  was  pro- 
bable that,  when  the  number  was  made  up,  the 
price  of  horses  would  be  treble  what  it  then  was, 
which  consideration  induced  me  to  purchase  this 
animal  before  I exactly  wanted  him.  He  was  a 
black  Andalusian  stallion  of  great  power  and 
strength,  and  capable  of  performing  a journey 
of  a hundred  leagues  in  a week’s  time,  but  he 
was  unbroke,  savage,  and  furious.  A cargo  of 
Bibles,  however,  which  I hoped  occasionally  to 
put  on  his  back,  would,  I had  no  doubt,  tho- 
roughly tame  him,  especially  when  labouring  up 
the  flinty  hills  of  the  north  of  Spain.  I wished 
to  have  purchased  a mule,  but,  though  I offered 
thirty  pounds  for  a sorry  one,  I could  not  obtain 
her ; whereas  the  cost  of  both  the  horses,  tall, 
powerful,  stately  animals,  scarcely  amounted  to 
that  sum. 

The  state  of  the  surrounding  country  at  this 
time  was  not  very  favourable  for  venturing  forth  : 
Cabrera  was  within  nine  leagues  of  Madrid,  with 

B 3 


10 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  I. 


an  army  nearly  ten  thousand  strong;  he  had 
beaten  several  small  detachments  of  the  queen’s 
troops,  and  had  ravaged  La  Mancha  with  fire  and 
sword,  burning  several  towns ; bands  of  affrighted 
fugitives  were  arriving  every  hour,  bringing  tidings 
of  woe  and  disaster,  and  I was  only  surprised  that 
the  enemy  did  not  appear,  and  by  taking  Madrid, 
which  was  almost  at  his  mercy,  put  an  end  to  the 
war  at  once.  But  the  truth  is,  that  the  Carlist  gene- 
rals did  not  wish  the  war  to  cease,  for  as  long  as  the 
country  was  involved  in  bloodshed  and  anarchy, 
they  could  plunder  and  exercise  that  lawless  au- 
thority so  dear  to  men  of  fierce  and  brutal  pas- 
sions. Cabrera,  moreover,  was  a dastardly  wretch, 
whose  limited  mind  was  incapable  of  harbouring 
a single  conception  approaching  to  grandeur; 
whose  heroic  deeds  were  confined  to  cutting  down 
defenceless  men,  and  to  forcing  and  disembowel- 
ling unhappy  women ; and  yet  I have  seen  this 
wretched  fellow  termed  by  French  journals  (Carlist 
of  course)  the  young,  the  heroic  general.  Infamy 
on  the  cowardly  assassin  ! The  shabbiest  corporal 
of  Napoleon  would  have  laughed  at  his  general- 
ship, and  half  a battalion  of  Austrian  grenadiers 


Ch.  I.] 


SERVANT  WANTED. 


11 


would  have  driven  him  and  his  rabble  army  head- 
long into  the  Ebro. 

I now  made  preparations  for  my  journey  into 
the  north.  I was  already  provided  with  horses 
well  calculated  to  support  the  fatigues  of  the  road 
and  the  burdens  which  I might  deem  necessary  to 
impose  upon  them.  One  thing,  however,  was 
still  lacking,  indispensable  to  a person  about  to 
engage  on  an  expedition  of  this  description ; I 
mean  a servant  to  attend  me.  Perhaps  there  is 
no  place  in  the  world  where  servants  more  abound 
than  at  Madrid,  or  at  least  fellows  eager  to  proffer 
their  services  in  the  expectation  of  receiving  food 
and  wages,  though,  with  respect  to  the  actual 
service  which  they  are  capable  of  performing,  not 
much  can  be  said ; but  I was  in  want  of  a servant 
of  no  common  description,  a shrewd  active  fellow, 
of  whose  advice,  in  cases  of  emergency,  I could 
occasionally  avail  myself ; courageous  withal,  for 
it  certainly  required  some  degree  of  courage  to 
follow  a master  bent  on  exploring  the  greater  part 
of  Spain,  and  who  intended  to  travel,  not  under 
the  protection  of  muleteers  and  carmen,  but  on 
his  own  cabalgaduras.  Such  a servant,  perhaps,  I 


12 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  I. 


might  have  sought  for  years  without  finding ; 
chance,  however,  brought  one  to  my  hand  at  the 
very  time  I wanted  him,  without  it  being  neces- 
sary for  me  to  make  any  laborious  perquisitions. 
I was  one  day  mentioning  the  subject  to  Mr. 
Borrego,  at  whose  establishment  1 had  printed 
the  New  Testament,  and  inquiring  whether  he 
thought  that  such  an  individual  was  to  be  found 
in  Madrid,  adding  that  I was  particularly  anxious 
to  obtain  a servant  who,  besides  Spanish,  could 
speak  some  other  language,  that  occasionally  we 
might  discourse  without  being  understood  by  those 
who  might  overhear  us.  “ The  very  description  of 
person,”  he  replied,  “ that  you  appear  to  be  in 
need  of,  quitted  me  about  half  an  hour  ago,  and, 
it  is  singular  enough,  came  to  me  in  the  hope  that 
I might  be  able  to  recommend  him  to  a master. 
He  has  been  twice  in  my  service  : for  his  talent  and 
courage  I will  answer;  and  I believe  him  to  be 
trustworthy,  at  least  to  masters  who  may  chime  in 
with  his  humour,  for  I must  inform  you  that  he  is  a 
most  extraordinary  fellow,  full  of  strange  likes  and 
antipathies,  which  he  will  gratify  at  any  expense, 
either  to  himself  or  others.  Perhaps  he  will  attach 


Ch.  I.] 


AN  APPLICATION. 


13 


himself  to  you,  in  which  case  you  will  find  him 
highly  valuable ; for  if  he  please  he  can  turn  his 
hand  to  any  thing,  and  is  not  only  acquainted 
with  two  but  half  a dozen  languages.” 

“ Is  he  a Spaniard  ?”  I inquired. 

“ I will  send  him  to  you  to-morrow,”  said  Bor- 
rego, “you  will  best  learn  from  his  own  mouth 
who  and  what  he  is.” 

The  next  day,  as  I had  just  sat  down  to  my 
“ sopa,”  my  hostess  informed  me  that  a man 
wished  to  speak  to  me.  “ Admit  him,”  said  I,  and 
he  almost  instantly  made  his  appearance.  He  was 
dressed  respectably  in  the  French  fashion,  and 
had  rather  a juvenile  look,  though  I subsequently 
learned  that  he  was  considerably  above  forty.  He 
was  somewhat  above  the  middle  stature,  and  might 
have  been  called  well  made,  had  it  not  been  for 
his  meagerness,  which  was  rather  remarkable . His 
arms  were  long  and  bony,  and  his  whole  form  con- 
veyed an  idea  of  great  activity  united  with  no 
slight  degree  of  strength  : his  hair  was  wiry,  but  of 
jetty  blackness;  his  forehead  low;  his  eyes  small 
and  grey,  expressive  of  much  subtlety  and  no  less 
malice,  strangely  relieved  by  a strong  dash  of  hu- 


14 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  I. 


mour ; the  nose  was  handsome,  but  the  mouth  was 
immensely  wide,  and  his  under  jaw  projected  con- 
siderably. A more  singular  physiognomy  I had 
never  seen,  and  I continued  staring  at  him  for 
some  time  in  silence.  “ Who  are  you  ?”  I at  last 
demanded. 

“ Domestic  in  search  of  a master,”  answered 
the  man  in  good  French,  but  in  a strange  accent. 
“ I come  recommended  to  you,  my  Lor,  by  Mon- 
sieur B.” 

Myself  \ — Of  what  nation  may  you  be  ? Are  you 
French  or  Spanish  ? 

Man. — God  forbid  that  I should  be  either,  mi 
Lor,  fai  Vhonneur  d'etre  de  la  nation  Grecque , 
my  name  is  Antonio  Buchini,  native  of  Pera  the 
Belle  near  to  Constantinople. 

Myself. — And  what  brought  you  to  Spain  ? 

Buchini. -r-Mi  Lor , je  vais  vous  raconter  man 
histoire  du  commencement  jusqiC  ici  : — my  father 
was  a native  of  Sceira  in  Greece,  from  whence  at 
an  early  age  he  repaired  to  Pera,  where  he  served 
as  janitor  in  the  hotels  of  various  ambassadors,  by 
whom  he  was  much  respected  for  his  fidelity. 
Amongst  others  of  these  gentlemen,  he  served 


Ch.  I.] 


ANTONIO  BUCHINI. 


15 


him  of  your  own  nation : this  occurred  at  the 
time  that  there  was  war  between  England  and  the 
Porte*.  Monsieur  the  Ambassador  had  to  es- 
cape for  his  life,  leaving  the  greater  part  of  his 
valuables  to  the  care  of  my  father,  who  concealed 
them  at  his  own  great  risk,  and  when  the  dis- 
pute was  settled,  restored  them  to  Monsieur,  even 
to  the  most  inconsiderable  trinket.  I mention 
this  circumstance  to  show  you  that  I am  of  a 
family  which  cherishes  principles  of  honour,  and 
in  which  confidence  may  be  placed.  My  father 
married  a daughter  of  Pera,  et  moi  je  suis  V unique 
fruit  de  ce  mariage . Of  my  mother  I know  no- 
thing, as  she  died  shortly  after  my  birth.  A fa- 
mily of  wealthy  Jews  took  pity  on  my  forlorn 
condition  and  offered  to  bring  me  up,  to  which 
my  father  gladly  consented ; and  with  them  I 
continued  several  years,  until  I was  a beau  gar- 
fon  ; they  were  very  fond  of  me,  and  at  last 
offered  to  adopt  me,  and  at  their  death  to  be- 
queath me  all  they  had,  on  condition  of  my 
becoming  a Jew.  Mats  la  cir concision  rietoit 

* This  was  possibly  the  period  when  Admiral  Duckworth  at- 
tempted to  force  the  passage  of  the  Dardanelles. 


16 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  I. 


guere  d mon  gout ; especially  that  of  the  Jews, 
for  I am  a Greek,  am  proud,  and  have  principles 
of  honour.  I quitted  them,  therefore,  saying  that 
if  ever  I allowed  myself  to  be  converted,  it 
should  be  to  the  faith  of  the  Turks,  for  they  are 
men,  are  proud,  and  have  principles  of  honour 
like  myself.  I then  returned  to  my  father,  who 
procured  me  various  situations,  none  of  which 
were  to  my  liking,  until  I was  placed  in  the  house 
of  Monsieur  Zea. 

Myself. — You  mean,  I suppose,  Zea  Bermudez, 
who  chanced  to  be  at  Constantinople. 

Buchini. — Just  so,  mi  Lor,  and  with  him  1 
continued  during  his  stay.  He  put  great  con- 
fidence in  me,  more  especially  as  I spoke  the 
pure  Spanish  language,  which  I acquired  amongst 
the  Jews,  who,  as  I have  heard  Monsieur  Zea 
say,  speak  it  better  than  the  present  natives  of 
Spain. 

I shall  not  follow  the  Greek  step  by  step 
throughout  his  history,  which  was  rather  lengthy  : 
suffice  it  to  say,  that  he  was  brought  by  Zea  Ber- 
mudez from  Constantinople  to  Spain,  where  he 
continued  in  his  service  for  many  years,  and 


Ch.  I.] 


GENERAL  CORDOVA. 


17 


from  whose  house  he  was  expelled  for  marrying  a 
Guipuscoan  damsel,  who  was  fille  de  chambre  to 
Madame  Zea ; since  which  time  it  appeared  that 
he  had  served  an  infinity  of  master’s ; sometimes 
as  valet,  sometimes  as  cook,  but  generally  in  the 
last  capacity.  He  confessed,  however,  that  he 
had  seldom  continued  more  than  three  days  in 
the  same  service,  on  account  of  the  disputes 
which  were  sure  to  arise  in  the  house  almost  im- 
mediately after  his  admission,  and  for  which  he 
could  assign  no  other  reason  than  his  being  a 
Greek,  and  having  principles  of  honour.  Amongst 
other  persons  whom  he  had  served  was  General 
Cordova,  who  he  said  was  a bad  paymaster,  and 
was  in  the  habit  of  maltreating  his  domestics. 
“ But  he  found  his  match  in  me,”  said  Antonio, 
“ for  I was  prepared  for  him  ; and  once,  when  he 
drew  his  sword  against  me,  I pulled  out  a pistol 
and  pointed  it  in  his  face.  He  grew  pale  as  death, 
and  from  that  hour  treated  me  with  all  kinds  of 
condescension.  It  was  only  pretence,  however, 
for  the  affair  rankled  in  his  mind ; he  had  de- 
termined upon  revenge,  and  on  being  appointed 
to  the  command  of  the  army,  he  was  particularly 


18 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  I. 


anxious  that  I should  attend  him  to  the  camp. 
Mais  je  lui  ris  an  nez>  made  the  sign  of  the  cor- 
tamanga — asked  for  my  wages,  and  left  him  ; and 
well  it  was  that  I did  so,  for  the  very  domestic 
whom  he  took  with  him  he  caused  to  be  shot 
upon  a charge  of  mutiny.” 

“ I am  afraid,”  said  I,  “ that  you  are  of  a tur- 
bulent disposition,  and  that  the  disputes  to  which 
you  have  alluded  are  solely  to  be  attributed  to 
the  badness  of  your  temper.” 

“ What  would  you  have,  Monsieur  ? Mot  je 
suis  Greece  suisjier  et  j\ii  des  principes  d' ho  li- 
near. I expect  to  be  treated  with  a certain  con- 
sideration, though  I confess  that  my  temper  is 
none  of  the  best,  and  that  at  times  T am  tempted 
to  quarrel  with  the  pots  and  pans  in  the  kitchen. 
I think,  upon  the  whole,  that  it  will  be  for  your 
advantage  to  engage  me,  and  I promise  you  to  be 
on  my  guard.  There  is  one  thing  that  pleases 
me  relating  to  you,  you  are  unmarried.  Now,  I 
would  rather  serve  a young  unmarried  man  for 
love  and  friendship,  than  a Benedict  for  fifty 
dollars  per  month.  Madame  is  sure  to  hate  me, 
and  so  is  her  waiting  woman ; and  more  particu- 


Ch.  I.] 


PRINCIPLES  OF  HONOUR. 


19 


larly  the  latter,  because  I am  a married  man.  I 
see  that  mi  Lor  is  willing  to  engage  me.” 

“ But  you  say  you  are  a married  man,”  I re- 
plied ; “ how  can  you  desert  your  wife,  for  I am 
about  to  leave  Madrid,  and  to  travel  into  the  re- 
mote and  mountainous  parts  of  Spain.” 

“ My  wife  will  receive  the  moiety  of  my  wages, 
while  I am  absent,  mi  Lor,  and  therefore  will  have 
no  reason  to  complain  of  being  deserted.  Com- 
plain ! did  I say ; my  wife  is  at  present  too  well 
instructed  to  complain.  She  never  speaks  nor 
sits  in  my  presence  unless  I give  her  permission. 
Am  I not  a Greek,  and  do  I not  know  how  to 
govern  my  own  house  ? Engage  me,  mi  Lor,  I 
am  a man  of  many  capacities : a discreet  valet, 
an  excellent  cook,  a good  groom  and  light  rider; 
in  a word,  I am  ? cocaine $.  What  would  you 
more  ? ” 

1 asked  him  his  terms,  which  were  extravagant, 
notwithstanding  his  prlncipes  cThonneur.  I found 
however,  that  he  was  willing  to  take  one  half. 

I had  no  sooner  engaged  him,  than  seizing  the 
tureen  of  soup,  which  had  by  this  time  become 
quite  cold,  he  placed  it  on  the  top  of  his  fore 


20 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  I. 


finger,  or  rather  on  the  nail  thereof,  causing  it  to 
make  various  circumvolutions  over  his  head,  to  my 
great  astonishment,  without  spilling  a drop,  then 
springing  with  it  to  the  door,  he  vanished,  and  in 
another  moment  made  his  appearance  with  the 
puchera,  which,  after  a similar  bound  and  flourish, 
he  deposited  on  the  table  ; then  suffering  his  hands 
to  sink  before  him,  he  put  one  over  the  other  and 
stood  at  his  ease  with  half  shut  eyes,  for  all  the 
world  as  if  he  had  been  in  my  service  twenty 
years.  r 

And  in  this  manner  Antonio  Buchini  entered 
upon  his  duties.  Many  was  the  wild  spot  to 
which  he  subsequently  accompanied  me ; many 
the  wild  adventure  of  which  he  was  the  sharer. 
His  behaviour  was  frequently  in  the  highest  de- 
gree extraordinary,  but  he  served  me  courage- 
ously and  faithfully : such  a valet,  take  him  for 
all  in  all, 

“ His  like  1 ne’er  expect  to  see  again.” 


Kosko  bakh  Anton. 


CHAPTER  II. 


ILLNESS. — NOCTURNAL  VISIT. — A MASTER  MIND. — THE  WHISPER, 
— SALAMANCA. — IRISH  HOSPITALITY. — SPANISH  SOLDIERS. — THE 
SCRIPTURES  ADVERTISED. 

But  I am  anxious  to  enter  upon  the  narrative  of 
my  journey,  and  shall  therefore  abstain  from  re- 
lating  to  my  readers  a great  many  circumstances 
which  occurred  previously  to  my  leaving  Madrid 
on  this  expedition.  About  the  middle  of  May  I 
had  got  every  thing  in  readiness,  and  I bade  fare- 
well to  my  friends.  Salamanca  was  the  first  place 
which  I intended  to  visit. 

Some  days  previous  to  my  departure  I was  very 
much  indisposed,  owing  to  the  state  of  the  wea- 
ther, for  violent  and  biting  winds  had  long  pre- 
vailed. I had  been  attacked  with  a severe  cold, 
which  terminated  in  a disagreeable  cough,  which 
the  many  remedies  I successfully  tried  seemed 
unable  to  subdue.  I had  made  preparations  for 
departing  on  a particular  day,  but,  owing  to  the 


22 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  II. 


state  of  my  health,  I was  apprehensive  that  I 
should  be  compelled  to  defer  my  journey  for  a 
time.  The  last  day  of  my  stay  in  Madrid,  find- 
ing myself  scarcely  able  to  stand,  I was  fain  to 
submit  to  a somewhat  desperate  experiment,  and 
by  the  advice  of  the  barber-surgeon  who  visited 
me,  I determined  to  be  bled.  Late  on  the  night 
of  that  same  day  he  took  from  me  sixteen  ounces 
of  blood,  and  having  received  his  fee  left  me,  wish- 
ing me  a pleasant  journey,  and  assuring  me,  upon 
his  reputation,  that  by  noon  the  next  day  I should 
be  perfectly  recovered. 

A few  minutes  after  his  departure,  whilst  I was 
sitting  alone,  meditating  on  the  journey  which  I 
was  about  to  undertake,  and  on  the  ricketty  state 
of  my  health,  I heard  a loud  knock  at  the  street 
door  of  the  house,  on  the  third  floor  of  which  I 
was  lodged.  In  another  minute  Mr.  S****  of 
the  British  embassy  entered  my  apartment.  Af- 
ter a little  conversation,  he  informed  me  that  Mr. 
Villiers  had  desired  him  to  wait  upon  me  to 
communicate  a resolution  which  he  had  come 
to.  Being  apprehensive  that,  alone  and  unas- 
sisted, T should  experience  great  difficulty  in 


Ch.  II.] 


NOCTURNAL  VISIT. 


23 


propagating  the  gospel  of  God  to  any  consider- 
able extent  in  Spain,  he  was  bent  upon  exerting 
to  the  utmost  his  own  credit  and  influence  to 
further  my  views,  which  he  himself  considered, 
if  carried  into  proper  effect,  extremely  well  cal- 
culated to  operate  beneficially  on  the  political 
and  moral  state  of  the  country.  To  this  end 
it  was  his  intention  to  purchase  a very  consider- 
able number  of  copies  of  the  New  Testament, 
and  to  dispatch  them  forthwith  to  the  various 
British  consuls  established  in  different  parts  of 
Spain,  with  strict  and  positive  orders  to  employ 
all  the  means  which  their  official  situation  should 
afford  them  to  circulate  the  books  in  question, 
and  to  assure  their  being  noticed.  They  were, 
moreover,  to  be  charged  to  afford  me,  whenever 
I should  appear  in  their  respective  districts,  all 
the  protection,  encouragement,  and  assistance 
which  I should  stand  in  need  of. 

I was  of  course  much  rejoiced  on  receiving 
this  information,  for  though  I had  long  been 
aware  that  Mr.  Villiers  was  at  all  times  willing  to 
assist  me,  he  having  frequently  given  me  suf- 
ficient proof,  I could  never  expect  that  he  would 


24 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  II. 


come  forward  in  so  noble,  and,  to  say  the  least 
of  it,  considering  his  high  diplomatic  situation, 
so  bold  and  decided  a manner.  I believe  that 
this  was  the  first  instance  of  a British  ambassador 
having  made  the  cause  of  the  Bible  Society  a na- 
tional one,  or  indeed  of  having  favoured  it  directly 
or  indirectly.  What  renders  the  case  of  Mr.  Vil- 
liers  more  remarkable  is,  that  on  my  first  arrival 
at  Madrid,  I found  him  by  no  means  well  dis- 
posed towards  the  Society.  The  Holy  Spirit  had 
probably  illumined  his  mind  on  this  point.  I 
hoped  that  by  his  means  our  institution  would 
shortly  possess  many  agents  in  Spain,  who,  with 
far  more  power  and  better  opportunities  than  I 
myself  could  ever  expect  to  possess,  would  scatter 
abroad  the  seed  of  the  gospel,  and  make  of  a bar- 
ren and  thirsty  wilderness  a green  and  smiling 
corn-field. 

A word  or  two  about  the  gentleman  who 
paid  me  this  nocturnal  visit.  Though  he  has 
probably  long  since  forgotten  the  humble  cir- 
culater  of  the  Bible  in  Spain,  I still  bear  in  mind 
numerous  acts  of  kindness  which  I experienced 
at  his  hands.  Endowed  with  an  intellect  of  the 


Ch.  II.  ] 


A MASTER  MIND. 


25 


highest  order,  master  of  the  lore  of  all  Europe, 
profoundly  versed  in  the  ancient  tongues,  and 
speaking  most  of  the  modern  dialects  with  re- 
markable facility, — possessed,  moreover,  of  a tho- 
rough knowledge  of  mankind, — he  brought  with 
him  into  the  diplomatic  career,  advantages  such 
as  few,  even  the  most  highly  gifted,  can  boast 
of.  During  his  sojourn  in  Spain,  he  performed 
many  eminent  services  for  the  government  which 
employed  him ; services  which,  I believe,  it  had 
sufficient  discernment  to  see,  and  gratitude  to 
reward.  He  had  to  encounter,  however,  the  full, 
brunt  of  the  low  and  stupid  malignity  of  the 
party  who,  shortly  after  the  time  of  which  I am 
speaking,  usurped  the  management  of  the  affairs 
of  Spain.  This  party,  whose  foolish  manoeuvres 
he  was  continually  discomfiting,  feared  and  hated 
him  as  its  evil  genius,  taking  every  opportu- 
nity of  showering  on  his  head  calumnies  the 
most  improbable  and  absurd.  Amongst  other 
things,  he  was  accused  of  having  acted  as  an 
agent  to  the  English  government  in  the  affair  of 
the  Granja,  bringing  about  that  revolution  by 


VOL.  II. 


c 


26 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IL 


bribing  the  mutinous  soldiers,  and  more  parti- 
cularly the  notorious  Sergeant  Garcia.  Such  an 
accusation  will  of  course  merely  extract  a smile 
from  those  who  are  at  all  acquainted  with  the 
English  character,  and  the  general  line  of  con- 
duct pursued  by  the  English  government.  It 
was  a charge,  however,  universally  believed  in 
Spain,  and  was  even  preferred  in  print  by  a 
certain  journal,  the  official  organ  of  the  silly 
Duke  of  Frias,  one  of  the  many  prime  ministers 
of  the  moderado  party  who  followed  each  other 
in  rapid  succession  towards  the  latter  period  of 
the  Carlist  and  Christino  struggle.  But  when 
did  a calumnious  report  ever  fall  to  the  ground 
in  Spain  by  the  weight  of  its  own  absurdity  ? 
Unhappy  land,  not  until  the  pure  light  of  the 
Gospel  has  illumined  thee,  wilt  thou  learn  that  the 
greatest  of  all  gifts  is  charity. 

The  next  day  verified  the  prediction  of  the 
Spanish  surgeon ; I had  to  a considerable  degree 
lost  my  cough  and  fever,  though,  owing  to  the 
loss  of  blood,  I was  somewhat  feeble.  Precisely 
at  twelve  o’clock  the  horses  were  led  forth  before 


Ch.  II.  ] 


THE  WHISPER. 


27 


the  door  of  my  lodging  in  the  Calle  de  Santiago, 
and  I prepared  to  mount ; but  my  black  entero 
of  Andalusia  would  not  permit  me  to  approach 
his  side,  and  whenever  I made  the  attempt,  com- 
menced wheeling  round  with  great  rapidity. 

“ C’est  un  mauvais  signe , mon  maitre ,”  said 
Antonio,  who,  dressed  in  a green  jerkin,  a Mon- 
tero  cap,  and  booted  and  spurred,  stood  ready  to 
attend  me,  holding  by  the  bridle  the  horse  which 
I had  purchased  from  the  contrabandista.  “ It 
is  a bad  sign,  and  in  my  country  they  would 
defer  the  journey  till  to-morrow.” 

“Are  there  whisperers  in  your  country?”  J 
demanded  ; and  taking  the  horse  by  the  mane, 
I performed  the  ceremony  after  the  most  ap- 
proved fashion : the  animal  stood  still,  and  I 
mounted  the  saddle,  exclaiming : — 

“ The  Rommany  Chal  to  his  horse  did  cry, 

As  he  placed  the  bit  in  his  horse’s  jaw ; 

Kosko  gry  ! Rommany  gry  ! 

Muk  man  kistur  tute  knaw.” 

We  then  rode  forth  from  Madrid  by  the  gate  of 
San  Vincente,  directing  our  course  to  the  lofty 
mountains  which  separate  Old  from  New  Castile. 


28 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  II. 


That  night  we  rested  at  Guadarama,  a large 
village  at  their  foot,  distant  from  Madrid  about 
seven  leagues.  Rising  early  on  the  following 
morning,  we  ascended  the  pass  and  entered 
into  Old  Castile. 

After  crossing  the  mountains,  the  route  to  Sa- 
lamanca lies  almost  entirely  over  sandy  and  arid 
plains,  interspersed  here  and  there  with  thin  and 
scanty  groves  of  pine.  No  adventure  worth  re- 
lating occurred  during  this  journey.  We  sold  a 
few  Testaments  in  the  villages  through  which  we 
passed,  more  especially  at  Peharanda.  About 
noon  of  the  third  day,  on  reaching  the  brow  of 
a hillock,  we  saw  a huge  dome  before  us,  upon 
which  the  fierce  rays  of  the  sun  striking,  produced 
the  appearance  of  burnished  gold.  It  belonged 
to  the  cathedral  of  Salamanca,  and  we  flattered 
ourselves  that  we  were  already  at  our  journey’s 
end ; we  were  deceived,  however,  being  still  four 
leagues  distant  from  the  town,  whose  churches 
and  convents,  towering  up  in  gigantic  masses, 
can  be  distinguished  at  an  immense  distance, 
flattering  the  traveller  with  an  idea  of  propin- 
quity which  does  not  in  reality  exist.  It  vras 


Ch.  II.] 


SALAMANCA. 


29 


not  till  long  after  nightfall  that  we  arrived  at 
the  city  gate,  which  we  found  closed  and  guarded, 
in  apprehension  of  a Carlist  attack  ; and  having 
obtained  admission  with  some  difficulty,  we  led 
our  horses  along  dark,  silent,  and  deserted  streets, 
till  we  found  an  individual  who  directed  us  to  a 
large,  gloomy,  and  comfortless  posada,  that  of 
the  Bull,  which  we,  however,  subsequently  found 
was  the  best  which  the  town  afforded. 

A melancholy  town  is  Salamanca ; the  days  of 
its  collegiate  glory  are  long  since  past  by,  never 
more  to  return  : a circumstance,  however,  which 
is  little  to  be  regretted ; for  what  benefit  did 
the  world  ever  derive  from  scholastic  philosophy  ? 
And  for  that  alone  was  Salamanca  ever  famous. 
Its  halls  are  now  almost  silent,  and  grass  is 
growing  in  its  courts,  which  were  once  daily 
thronged  by  at  least  eight  thousand  students ; a 
number  to  which,  at  the  present  day,  the  entire 
population  of  the  city  does  not  amount.  Yet, 
with  all  its  melancholy,  what  an  interesting,  nay, 
what  a magnificent  place  is  Salamanca ! How 
glorious  are  its  churches,  how  stupendous  are  its 


30 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[CL  11 


deserted  convents,  and  with  what  sublime  but 
sullen  grandeur  do  its  huge  and  crumbling  walls, 
which  crown  the  precipitous  bank  of  the  Tormes, 
look  down  upon  the  lovely  river  and  its  vener- 
able bridge. 

What  a pity  that,  of  the  many  rivers  of  Spain, 
scarcely  one  is  navigable.  The  beautiful  but 
shallow  Tormes,  instead  of  proving  a source  of 
blessing  and  wealth  to  this  part  of  Castile,  is  of 
no  further  utility  than  to  turn  the  wheels  of 
various  small  water  mills,  standing  upon  weirs  of 
stone,  which  at  certain  distances  traverse  the 
river. 

My  sojourn  at  Salamanca  was  rendered  parti- 
cularly pleasant  by  the  kind  attentions  and  con- 
tinual acts  of  hospitality  which  I experienced 
from  the  inmates  of  the  Irish  College,  to  the 
rector  of  which  I bore  a letter  of  recommenda- 
tion from  my  kind  and  excellent  friend  Mr. 
O’Shea,  the  celebrated  banker  of  Madrid.  It 
will  be  long  before  I forget  these  Irish,  more 
especially  their  head,  Dr.  Gartland,  a genuine 
scion  of  the  good  Hibernian  tree,  an  accom- 


Ch.  II.] 


IRISH  HOSPITALITY. 


31 


plished  scholar,  and  a courteous  and  high  minded 
gentleman.  Though  fully  aware  who  I was,  he 
held  out  the  hand  of  friendship  to  the  wander- 
ing heretic  missionary,  although  by  so  doing  he 
exposed  himself  to  the  rancorous  remarks  of  the 
narrow  minded  native  clergy,  who,  in  their  ugly 
shovel  hats  and  long  cloaks,  glared  at  me  askance 
as  I passed  by  their  whispering  groups  beneath 
the  piazzas  of  the  Plaza.  But  when  did  the  fear 
of  consequences  cause  an  Irishman  to  shrink 
from  the  exercise  of  the  duties  of  hospitality  ? 
However  attached  to  his  religion — and  who  is  so 
attached  to  the  Romish  creed  as  the  Irishman  ? — 
I am  convinced  that  not  all  the  authority  of  the 
Pope  or  the  Cardinals  would  induce  him  to  close 
his  doors  on  Luther  himself,  were  that  respect- 
able personage  at  present  alive  and  in  need  of 
food  and  refuge. 

Honour  to  Ireland  and  her  “ hundred  thousand 
welcomes  !”  Her  fields  have  long  been  the  green- 
est in  the  world ; her  daughters  the  fairest ; her 
sons  the  bravest  and  most  eloquent.  May  they 
never  cease  to  be  so. 

The  posada  where  I had  put  up  was  a good 


32 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  II. 


specimen  of  the  old  Spanish  inn,  being  much  the 
same  as  those  described  in  the  time  of  Philip  the 
Third  or  Fourth.  The  rooms  were  many  and 
large,  floored  with  either  brick  or  stone,  generally 
with  an  alcove  at  the  end,  in  which  stood  a 
wretched  flock  bed.  Behind  the  house  was  a 
court,  and  in  the  rear  of  this  a stable,  full  of 
horses,  ponies,  mules,  machos,  and  donkeys, 
for  there  was  no  lack  of  guests,  who,  however, 
for  the  most  part  slept  in  the  stable  with  their 
caballerias,  being  either  arrieros  or  small  ped- 
dling merchants  who  travelled  the  country  with 
coarse  cloth  or  linen.  Opposite  to  my  room  in 
the  corridor  lodged  a wounded  officer,  who  had 
just  arrived  from  San  Sebastian  on  a galled  broken- 
kneed  pony  : he  was  an  Estrimenian,  and  was  re- 
turning to  his  own  village  to  be  cured.  He  was  at- 
tended by  three  broken  soldiers,  lame  or  maimed, 
and  unfit  for  service : they  told  me  that  they  were 
of  the  same  village  as  his  worship,  and  on  that  ac- 
count he  permitted  them  to  travel  with  him.  They 
slept  amongst  the  litter,  and  throughout  the  day 
lounged  about  the  house  smoking  paper  cigars. 
I never  saw  them  eating,  though  they  frequently 


Ch.  II.] 


SPANISH  SOLDIERS. 


38 


went  to  a dark  cool  corner,  where  stood  a bota  or 
kind  of  water  pitcher,  which  they  held  about  six 
inches  from  their  black  filmy  lips,  permitting  the 
liquid  to  trickle  down  their  throats.  They  said 
they  had  no  pay,  and  were  quite  destitute  of 
money,  that  su  merced  the  officer  occasionally 
gave  them  a piece  of  bread,  but  that  he  himself 
was  poor  and  had  only  a few  dollars.  Brave 
guests  for  an  inn,  thought  I ; yet,  to  the  honour 
of  Spain  be  it  spoken,  it  is  one  of  the  few  coun- 
tries in  Europe  where  poverty  is  never  insulted 
nor  looked  upon  with  contempt.  Even  at  an  inn, 
the  poor  man  is  never  spurned  from  the  door,  and 
if  not  harboured,  is  at  least  dismissed  with  fair 
words,  and  consigned  to  the  mercies  of  God  and 
his  mother.  This  is  as  it  should  be.  I laugh  at 
the  bigotry  and  prejudices  of  Spain  ; I abhor  the 
cruelty  and  ferocity  which  have  cast  a stain  of  eter- 
nal infamy  on  her  history  ,*  but  1 will  say  for  the 
Spaniards,  that  in  their  social  intercourse  no  peo- 
ple in  the  world  exhibit  a juster  feeling  of  what 
is  due  to  the  dignity  of  human  nature,  or  better  un- 
derstand the  behaviour  which  it  behoves  a man  to 
adopt  towards  his  fellow  beings.  I have  said  that 

c 3 


34 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  II. 


it  is  one  of  the  few  countries  in  Europe  where  po- 
verty is  not  treated  with  contempt,  and  I may 
add,  where  the  wealthy  are  not  blindly  idolized. 
In  Spain  the  very  beggar  does  not  feel  himself  a 
degraded  being,  for  he  kisses  no  one’s  feet,  and 
knows  not  what  it  is  to  be  cuffed  or  spitten  upon ; 
and  in  Spain  the  duke  or  the  marquis  can  scarcely 
entertain  a very  overweening  opinion  of  his  own 
consequence,  as  he  finds  no  one,  with  perhaps  the 
exception  of  his  French  valet,  to  fawn  upon  or 
flatter  him. 

During  my  stay  at  Salamanca,  I took  measures 
that  the  word  of  God  might  become  generally 
known  in  this  celebrated  city.  The  principal 
bookseller  of  the  town,  Blanco,  a man  of  great 
wealth  and  respectability,  consented  to  become 
my  agent  here,  and  I in  consequence  deposited 
in  his  shop  a certain  number  of  New  Testaments, 
He  was  the  proprietor  of  a small  printing  press, 
where  the  official  bulletin  of  the  place  was  pub- 
lished. For  this  bulletin  I prepared  an  adver- 
tisement of  the  work,  in  which,  amongst  other 
things,  I said  that  the  New  Testament  was  the 
only  guide  to  salvation ; I also  spoke  of  the  Bible 


Ch.  II.]  THE  SCRIPTURES  ADVERTISED.  35 

Society,  and  the  great  pecuniary  sacrifices  which 
it  was  making  with  the  view  of  proclaiming  Christ 
crucified,  and  of  making  his  doctrine  known. 
This  step  will  perhaps  be  considered  by  some  as 
too  bold,  but  I was  not  aware  that  I could  take 
any  more  calculated  to  arouse  the  attention  of  the 
people — a considerable  point.  I also  ordered 
numbers  of  the  same  advertisement  to  be  struck 
off  in  the  shape  of  bills,  which  I caused  to  be 
stuck:  up  in  various  parts  of  the  town.  I had 
great  hope  that  by  means  of  these  a considerable 
number  of  New  Testaments  would  be  sold.  I in- 
tended to  repeat  this  experiment  in  Valladolid, 
Leon,  St.  Jago,  and  all  the  principal  towns  which 
I visited,  and  to  distribute  them  likewise  as  1 
rode  along : the  children  of  Spain  would  thus  be 
brought  to  know  that  such  a work  as  the  New 
Testament  is  in  existence,  a fact  of  which  not  five 
in  one  hundred  were  then  aware,  notwithstanding 
their  so  frequently  repeated  boasts  of  their  Catho- 
licity and  Christianity. 


CHAPTER  III. 


DEPARTURE  FROM  SALAMANCA.  RECEPTION  AT  PITIEGUA.  — 

THE  DILEMMA. — SUDDEN  INSPIRATION. —THE  GOOD  PRESBYTER. 

COMBAT  OF  QUADRUPEDS IRISH  CHRISTIANS.  PLAINS  OF 

SPAIN. THE  CATALANS.  — THE  FATAL  POOL. — VALLADOLID. 

CIRCULATION  OF  THE  SCRIPTURE PHILIPPINE  MISSIONS. — 

ENGLISH  COLLEGE.— A CONVERSATION. — THE  GAOLERESS. 


On  Saturday,  the  10th  of  June,  I left  Salamanca 
for  Valladolid.  As  the  village  where  we  intended 
to  rest  was  only  five  leagues  distant,  we  did  not 
sally  forth  till  midday  was  past.  There  was  a 
haze  in  the  heavens  which  overcast  the  sun, 
nearly  hiding  his  countenance  from  our  view. 
My  friend,  Mr.  Patrick  Cantwell,  of  the  Irish 
College,  was  kind  enough  to  ride  with  me  part 
of  the  way.  He  was  mounted  on  a most  sorry 
looking  hired  mule,  which  I expected  would  be 
unable  to  keep  pace  with  the  spirited  horses  of 
myself  and  man,  for  he  seemed  to  be  twin  brother 
of  the  mule  of  Gil  Perez,  on  which  his  nephew 
made  his  celebrated  journey  from  Oviedo  to 
Pehaflor.  I was,  however,  very  much  mistaken. 


Ch.  III.]  DEPARTURE  FROM  SALAMANCA.  37 

The  creature  on  being  mounted  instantly  set  off 
at  that  rapid  walk  which  I have  so  often  admired 
in  Spanish  mules,  and  which  no  horse  can  emu- 
late. Our  more  stately  animals  were  speedily 
left  in  the  rear,  and  we  were  continually  obliged 
to  break  into  a trot  to  follow  the  singular  quad- 
ruped, who,  ever  and  anon,  would  lift  his  head 
high  in  the  air,  curl  up  his  lip,  and  show  his 
yellow  teeth,  as  if  he  were  laughing  at  us,  as 
perhaps  he  was.  It  chanced  that  none  of  us 
was  well  acquainted  with  the  road ; indeed,  I 
could  see  nothing  which  was  fairly  entitled  to 
that  appellation.  The  way  from  Salamanca  to 
Valladolid  is  amongst  a medley  of  bridle-paths 
and  drift-ways,  where  discrimination  is  very  dif- 
ficult. It  was  not  long  before  we  were  bewil- 
dered, and  travelled  over  more  ground  than  was 
strictly  necessary.  However,  as  men  and  women 
frequently  passed  on  donkeys  and  little  ponies, 
we  were  not  too  proud  to  be  set  right  by  them, 
and  by  dint  of  diligent  inquiry  we  at  length 
arrived  at  Pitiegua,  four  leagues  from  Salamanca, 
a small  village,  containing  about  fifty  families, 
consisting  of  mud  huts,  and  situated  in  the  midst 


38 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  III. 


of  dusty  plains,  where  corn  was  growing  in 
abundance.  We  asked  for  the  house  of  the 
cura,  an  old  man  whom  I had  seen  the  day 
before  at  the  Irish  College,  and  who,  on  being 
informed  that  I was  about  to  depart  for  Valla- 
dolid, had  exacted  from  me  a promise  that  I 
would  not  pass  through  his  village  without  paying 
him  a visit  and  partaking  of  his  hospitality 

A woman  directed  us  to  a cottage  somewhat 
superior  in  appearance  to  those  contiguous.  It 
had  a small  portico,  which,  if  I remember  well, 
was  overgrown  with  a vine.  We  knocked  loud 
and  long  at  the  door,  but  received  no  answer; 
the  voice  of  man  was  silent,  and  not  even  a dog 
barked.  The  truth  was,  that  the  old  curate  was 
taking  his  siesta,  and  so  were  his  whole  family, 
which  consisted  of  one  ancient  female  and  a 
cat.  The  good  man  was  at  last  disturbed  by  our 
noise  and  vociferation,  for  we  were  hungry,  and 
consequently  impatient.  Leaping  from  his  couch, 
he  came  running  to  the  door  in  great  hurry  and 
confusion,  and  perceiving  us,  he  made  many 
apologies  for  being  asleep  at  a period  when,  he 
said,  he  ought  to  have  been  on  the  look  out  for 


Ch.  III.] 


RECEPTION  AT  PITIEGUA. 


39 


his  invited  guest.  He  embraced  me  very  affec- 
tionately and  conducted  me  into  his  parlour,  an 
apartment  of  tolerable  size,  hung  round  with 
shelves,  which  were  crowded  with  books.  At 
one  end  there  was  a kind  of  table  or  desk 
covered  with  black  leather,  with  a large  easy 
chair,  into  which  he  pushed  me,  as  I,  with  the 
true  eagerness  of  a bibliomaniac,  was  about  to 
inspect  his  shelves ; saying,  with  considerable 
vehemence,  that  there  was  nothing  there  worthy 
of  the  attention  of  an  Englishman,  for  that  his 
whole  stock  consisted  of  breviaries  and  dry 
Catholic  treatises  on  divinity. 

His  care  now  was  to  furnish  us  with  refresh- 
ments. In  a twinkling,  with  the  assistance  of 
his  old  attendant,  he  placed  on  the  table  several 
plates  of  cakes  and  confectionery,  and  a number 
of  large  uncouth  glass  bottles,  which  I thought 
bore  a strong  resemblance  to  those  of  Schiedam, 
and  indeed  they  were  the  very  same.  u There,” 
said  he,  rubbing  his  hands ; “ I thank  God  that 
it  is  in  my  power  to  treat  you  in  a way  which 
will  be  agreeable  to  you.  In  those  bottles  there 
is  Hollands,  thirty  years  old;”  and  producing 


40 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN, 


[Ch.  III. 


two  large  tumblers,  he  continued,  “ fill,  my 
friends,  and  drink,  drink  it  every  drop  if  you 
please,  for  it  is  of  little  use  to  myself,  who 
seldom  drink  aught  but  water.  I know  that  you 
islanders  love  it,  and  cannot  live  without  it; 
therefore,  since  it  does  you  good,  I am  only  sorry 
that  there  is  no  more.” 

Observing  that  we  contented  ourselves  with 
merely  tasting  it,  he  looked  at  us  with  astonish- 
ment, and  inquired  the  reason  of  our  not  drink- 
ing. We  told  him  that  we  seldom  drank  ardent 
spirits ; and  I added,  that  as  for  myself,  I sel- 
dom tasted  even  wine,  but  like  himself,  was 
content  with  the  use  of  water.  He  appeared 
somewhat  incredulous,  but  told  us  to  do  exactly 
what  we  pleased,  and  to  ask  for  what  was  agree- 
able to  us.  We  told  him  that  we  had  not  dined, 
and  should  be  glad  of  some  substantial  refresh- 
ment. “ I am  afraid,”  said  he,  “ that  I have 
nothing  in  the  house  which  will  suit  you ; how- 
ever, we  will  go  and  see.” 

Thereupon  he  led  us  through  a small  yard  at 
the  back  part  of  his  house,  which  might  have 
been  called  a garden,  or  orchard,  if  it  had  dis- 


Ch.  III.] 


THE  DILEMMA. 


41 


played  either  trees  or  flowers ; but  it  produced 
nothing  but  grass,  which  was  growing  in  luxu- 
riance. At  one  end  was  a large  pigeon- 
house,  which  we  all  entered : “ for,”  said  the 
curate,  “ if  we  could  find  some  nice  delicate 
pigeons  they  would  afford  you  an  excellent 
dinner.”  We  were,  however,  disappointed;  for 
after  rummaging  the  nests,  we  only  found  very 
young  ones,  unfitted  for  our  purpose.  The 
good  man  became  very  melancholy,  and  said  he 
had  some  misgivings  that  we  should  have  to 
depart  dinnerless.  Leaving  the  pigeon-house, 
he  conducted  us  to  a place  where  there  were 
several  steps  of  bees,  round  which  multitudes  of 
the  busy  insects  were  hovering,  filling  the  air 
with  their  music.  “ Next  to  my  fellow  creatures,” 
said  he,  cc  there  is  nothing  which  I love  so  dearly 
as  these  bees ; it  is  one  of  my  delights  to  sit 
watching  them,  and  listening  to  their  murmur.” 
We  next  went  to  several  unfurnished  rooms, 
fronting  the  yard,  in  one  of  which  were  hanging 
several  flitches  of  bacon,  beneath  which  he 
stopped,  and  looking  up,  gazed  intently  upon 
them.  We  told  him  that  if  he  had  nothing 


42 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  III. 


better  to  offer,  we  should  be  very  glad  to  eat 
some  slices  of  this  bacon,  especially  if  some 
eggs  were  added.  “ To  tell  the  truth,”  said  he, 
u I have  nothing  better,  and  if  you  can  content 
yourselves  with  such  fare  I shall  be  very  happy ; 
as  for  eggs  you  can  have  as  many  as  you  wish, 
and  perfectly  fresh,  for  my  hens  lay  every  day.” 

So,  after  every  thing  was  prepared  and  ar- 
ranged to  our  satisfaction,  we  sat  down  to  dine 
on  the  bacon  and  eggs,  in  a small  room,  not  the 
one  to  which  he  had  ushered  us  at  first,  but  on 
the  other  side  of  the  doorway.  The  good  curate, 
though  he  ate  nothing,  having  taken  his  meal 
long  before,  sat  at  the  head  of  the  table,  and 
the  repast  was  enlivened  by  his  chat.  “ There, 
my  friends,”  said  he,  “ where  you  are  now  seated, 
once  sat  Wellington  and  Crawford,  after  they 
had  beat  ' the  French  at  Arapiles,  and  rescued  us 
from  the  thraldom  of  those  wicked  people.  I 
never  respected  my  house  so  much  as  I have 
done  since  they  honoured  it  with  their  presence. 
They  were  heroes,  and  one  was  a demi-god.” 
He  then  burst  into  a most  eloquent  panegyric 
of  El  Gran  Lord,  as  he  termed  him,  which  I 


Ch.  III.] 


SUDDEN  INSPIRATION. 


43 


should  be  very  happy  to  translate,  were  my  pen 
capable  of  rendering  into  English  the  robust 
thundering  sentences  of  his  powerful  Castilian. 
I had  till  then  considered  him  a plain  uninformed 
old  man,  almost  simple,  and  as  incapable  of 
much  emotion  as  a tortoise  within  its  shell ; 
but  he  had  become  at  once  inspired  : his  eyes 
were  replete  with  a bright  fire,  and  every  muscle 
of  his  face  was  quivering.  The  little  silk  scull- 
scap  which  he  wore,  according  to  the  custom  of 
the  Catholic  clergy,  moved  up  and  down  with 
his  agitation,  and  I soon  saw  that  I was  in  the 
presence  of  one  of  those  remarkable  men  who 
so  frequently  spring  up  in  the  bosom  of  the 
Romish  church,  and  who  to  a child-like  sim- 
plicity unite  immense  energy  and  power  of 
mind, — equally  adapted  to  guide  a scanty  flock 
of  ignorant  rustics  in  some  obscure  village  in 
Italy  or  Spain,  as  to  convert  millions  of  heathens 
on  the  shores  of  Japan,  China,  and  Paraguay. 

He  was  a thin  spare  man,  of  about  sixty-five, 
and  was  dressed  in  a black  cloak  of  very  coarse 
materials,  nor  were  his  other  garments  of  superior 
quality.  This  plainness,  however,  in  the  appear- 


44 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  III. 


ance  of  his  outward  man  was  by  no  means  the 
result  of  poverty ; quite  the  contrary.  The  bene- 
fice was  a very  plentiful  one,  and  placed  at  his 
disposal  annually  a sum  of  at  least  eight  hundred 
dollars,  of  which  the  eighth  part  was  more  than 
sufficient  to  defray  the  expenses  of  his  house  and 
himself ; the  rest  was  devoted  entirely  to  the 
purest  acts  of  charity.  He  fed  the  hungry  wan- 
derer, and  despatched  him  singing  on  his  way, 
with  meat  in  his  wallet  and  a peseta  in  his  purse, 
and  his  parishioners,  when  in  need  of  money, 
had  only  to  repair  to  his  study  and  were  sure  of 
an  immediate  supply.  He  was,  indeed,  the 
banker  of  the  village,  and  what  he  lent  he 
neither  expected  nor  wished  to  be  returned. 
Though  under  the  necessity  of  making  frequent 
journeys  to  Salamanca,  he  kept  no  mule,  but 
contented  himself  with  an  ass,  borrowed  from  the 
neighbouring  miller.  “ I once  kept  a mule,” 
said  he,  “ but  some  years  since  it  was  removed 
without  my  permission  by  a traveller  whom  I had 
housed  for  the  night : for  in  that  alcove  I keep 
two  clean  beds  for  the  use  of  the  wayfaring,  and 
I shall  be  very  much  pleased  if  yourself  and 


Gil.  III.] 


THE  GOOD  PRESBYTER. 


45 


friend  will  occupy  them,  and  tarry  with  me  till 
the  morning.” 

But  I was  eager  to  continue  my  journey,  and 
my  friend  was  no  less  anxious  to  return  to  Sala- 
manca. Upon  taking  leave  of  the  hospitable 
curate,  I presented  him  with  a copy  of  the  New 
Testament.  He  received  it  without  uttering  a 
single  word,  and  placed  it  on  one  of  the  shelves 
of  his  study ; but  I observed  him  nodding  sig- 
nificantly to  the  Irish  student,  perhaps  as  much 
as  to  say,  “ Your  friend  loses  no  opportunity 
of  propagating  his  book;”  for  he  was  well  aware 
who  I was.  I shall  not  speedily  forget  the  truly 
good  presbyter,  Antlionio  Garcia  de  Aguilar, 
Cura  of  Pitiegua. 

We  reached  Pedroso  shortly  before  nightfall. 
It  was  a small  village  containing  about  thirty 
houses,  and  intersected  by  a rivulet,  or  as  it 
is  called  a regata.  On  its  banks  women  and 
maidens  were  washing  their  linen  and  singing 
couplets  ; the  church  stood  lone  and  solitary  on 
the  farther  side.  We  inquired  for  the  posada, 
and  were  shown  a cottage  differing  nothing  from 
the  rest  in  general  appearance.  We  called  at  the 


46 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  Ill 


door  in  vain,  as  it  is  not  the  custom  of  Castile 
for  the  people  of  these  halting  places  to  go  out 
to  welcome  their  visitors : at  last  we  dismounted 
and  entered  the  house,  demanding  of  a sullen 
looking  woman  where  we  were  to  place  the 
horses.  She  said  there  was  a stable  within  the 
house,  but  we  could  not  put  the  animals  there 
as  it  contained  malos  machos  {savage  mutes)  be- 
longing to  two  travellers,  who  would  certainly 
fight  with  our  horses,  and  then  there  would 
be  a funcion,  which  would  tear  the  house 
down.  She  then  pointed  to  an  outhouse  across 
the  way,  saying  that  we  could  stable  them 
there.  We  entered  this  place,  which  we  found 
full  of  filth  and  swine,  with  a door  without  a lock. 
I thought  of  the  fate  of  the  cura’s  mule,  and  was 
unwilling  to  trust  the  horses  in  such  a place, 
abandoning  them  to  the  mercy  of  any  robber 
in  the  neighbourhood.  I therefore  entered  the 
house,  and  said  resolutely,  that  I was  determined 
to  place  them  in  the  stable.  Two  men  were 
squatted  on  the  ground,  with  an  immense  bowl 
of  stewed  hare  before  them,  on  which  they  were 
supping;  these  were  the  travelling  merchants,  the 


ch.  in.] 


COMBAT  OF  QUADRUPEDS. 


47 


masters  of  the  mutes.  I passed  on  to  the  stable, 
one  of  the  men  saying  softly,  “ Yes,  yes,  go  in  and 
see  what  will  befall.”  I had  no  sooner  entered 
the  stable  than  I heard  a horrid  discordant  cry, 
something  between  a bray  and  a yell,  and  the 
largest  of  the  machos,  tearing  his  head  from  the 
manger  to  which  he  was  fastened,  his  eyes  shoot- 
ing flames,  and  breathing  a whirlwind  from  his 
nostrils,  flung  himself  on  my  stallion.  The  horse, 
as  savage  as  himself,  reared  on  his  hind  legs,  and 
after  the  fashion  of  an  English  pugilist,  repaid 
the  other  with  a pat  on  the  forehead,  which 
nearly  felled  him.  A combat  instantly  ensued, 
and  I thought  that  the  words  of  the  sullen  woman 
would  be  verified  by  the  house  being  torn  to 
pieces.  It  ended  by  my  seizing  the  mute  by  the 
halter,  at  the  risk  of  my  limbs,  and  hanging  upon 
him  with  all  my  weight,  whilst  Antonio,  with 
much  difficulty,  removed  the  horse.  The  man 
who  had  been  standing  at  the  entrance  now  came 
forward,  saying,  “ This  would  not  have  happened 
if  you  had  taken  good  advice.”  Upon  my  stat- 
ing to  him  the  unreasonableness  of  expecting 
that  I would  risk  horses  in  a place  where  they 


48 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  III. 


would  probably  be  stolen  before  the  morning,  he 
replied,  “ True,  true,  you  have  perhaps  done 
right.”  He  then  refastened  his  macho,  adding 
for  additional  security  a piece  of  whipcord,  which 
he  said  rendered  escape  impossible. 

After  supper,  I roamed  about  the  village.  I 
addressed  two  or  three  labourers  whom  I found 
standing  at  their  doors ; they  appeared,  however, 
exceedingly  reserved,  and  with  a gruff  “ buenas 
nockes”  turned  into  their  houses  without  inviting 
me  to  enter.  I at  last  found  my  way  to  the 
church  porch,  where  I continued  some  time  in 
meditation.  At  last  I bethought  myself  of  retir- 
ing to  rest ; before  departing,  however,  I took  out 
and  affixed  to  the  porch  of  the  church  an  ad- 
vertisement to  the  effect  that  the  New  Testament 
was  to  be  purchased  at  Salamanca.  On  return- 
ing to  the  house,  I found  the  two  travelling 
merchants  enjoying  profound  slumber  on  various 
mantas  or  mule-cloths  stretched  on  the  floor. 
“ You  are  a French  merchant,  I suppose,  Cabal- 
lero,” said  a man,  who  it  seemed  was  the  master 
of  the  house,  and  whom  I had  not  before  seen. 
“ You  are  a French  merchant,  I suppose,  and 


Ch.  III.] 


IRISH  CHRISTIANS. 


49 


are  on  the  way  to  the  fair  of  Medina.”  “ I am 
neither  Frenchman  nor  merchant,”  I replied,  “ and 
though  I purpose  passing  through  Medina,  it  is  not 
with  the  view  of  attending  the  fair.”  “ Then  you 
are  one  of  the  Irish  Christians  from  Salamanca, 
Caballero,”  said  the  man ; “ I hear  you  come 
from  that  town.”  “ Why  do  you  call  them  Irish 
Christians  ?”  I replied.  “ Are  there  pagans  in 
their  country?”  “ We  call  them  Christians,” 
said  the  man,  “ to  distinguish  them  from  the 
Irish  English,  who  are  worse  than  pagans,  who 
are  Jews  and  heretics.”  I made  no  answer,  but 
passed  on  to  the  room  which  had  been  prepared 
for  me,  and  from  which,  the  door  being  ajar, 
1 heard  the  following  short  conversation  passing 
between  the  innkeeper  and  his  wife  : — 

Innkeeper . — Muger,  it  appears  to  me  that  we 
have  evil  guests  in  the  house. 

Wife. — You  mean  the  last  comers,  the  Cabal- 
lero and  his  servant.  Yes,  I never  saw  worse 
countenances  in  my  life. 

Innkeeper. — I do  not  like  the  servant,  and  still 
less  the  master.  He  has  neither  formality  nor 


VOL.  II. 


x> 


50 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  III. 


politeness:  he  tells  me  that  he  is  not  French, 
and  when  I spoke  to  him  of  the  Irish  Christians, 
he  did  not  seem  to  belong  to  them.  I more 
than  suspect  that  he  is  a heretic  or  a Jew  at 
least. 

Wife . — Perhaps  they  are  both.  Maria  San- 
tissima ! what  shall  we  do  to  purify  the  house 
when  they  are  gone  ? 

Innkeeper . — O,  as  for  that  matter,  we  must  of 
course  charge  it  in  the  cuenta. 

I slept  soundly,  and  rather  late  in  the  morning 
arose  and  breakfasted,  and  paid  the  bill,  in  which, 
by  its  extravagance,  I found  the  purification  had 
not  been  forgotten.  The  travelling  merchants 
had  departed  at  daybreak.  We  now  led  forth 
the  horses,  and  mounted  ; there  were  several 
people  at  the  door  staring  at  us.  “ What  is  the 
meaning  of  this?”  said  I to  Antonio. 

“ It  is  whispered  that  we  are  no  Christians,” 
said  Antonio ; “ they  have  come  to  cross  them- 
selves at  our  departure.” 

In  effect,  the  moment  that  we  rode  forward  a 
dozen  hands  at  least  were  busied  in  this  evil- 


Oh.  III.] 


PLAINS  OF  SPAIN. 


51 


averting  ceremony.  Antonio  instantly  turned  and 
crossed  himself  in  the  Greek  fashion,— much 
more  complex  and  difficult  than  the  Catholic. 

“ Mirad  que  Santiguo ! que  Santigiio  de  los  * 
demonios  ! ” # exclaimed  many  voices,  whilst  for 
fear  of  consequences  we  hastened  away. 

The  day  was  exceedingly  hot,  and  we  wended 
our  way  slowly  along  the  plains  of  Old  Castile. 
With  all  that  pertains  to  Spain,  vastness  and  sub- 
limity are  associated : grand  are  its  mountains, 
and  no  less  grand  are  its  plains,  which  seem  of 
boundless  extent,  but  which  are  not  tame  un- 
broken flats,  like  the  steppes  of  Russia.  Rough 
and  uneven  ground  is  continually  occurring  : 
here  a deep  ravine  and  gully  worn  by  the 
wintry  torrent;  yonder  an  eminence  not  un- 
frequently  craggy  and  savage,  at  whose  top  ap- 
pears the  lone  solitary  village.  There  is  little  that 
is  blithesome  and  cheerful,  but  much  that  is 
melancholy.  A few  solitary  rustics  are  occasion- 
ally seen  toiling  in  the  fields — fields  without 
limit  or  boundary,  where  the  green  oak,  the  elm 
or  the  ash  are  unknown ; where  only  the  sad 
* “ See  the  crossing  ! see  what  devilish  crossing  !” 

D 2 


52 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  III. 


and  desolate  pine  displays  its  pyramid-like  form, 
and  where  no  grass  is  to  be  found.  And  who  are 
the  travellers  of  these  districts  ? For  the  most  part 
- arrieros,  with  their  long  trains  of  mules  hung  with 
monotonous  tinkling  bells.  Behold  them  with 
their  brown  faces,  brown  dresses,  and  broad 
slouched  hats ; — the  arrieros,  the  true  lords  of  the 
roads  of  Spain,  and  to  whom  more  respect  is 
paid  in  these  dusty  ways  than  to  dukes  and 
condes ; — the  arrieros,  sullen,  proud,  and  rarely 
courteous,  whose  deep  voices  may  be  some- 
times heard  at  the  distance  of  a mile,  either 
cheering  the  sluggish  animals,  or  shortening 
the  dreary  way  with  savage  and  dissonant 
songs. 

Late  in  the  afternoon,  we  reached  Medina 
del  Campo,  formerly  one  of  the  principal  cities 
of  Spain,  though  at  present  an  inconsiderable 
place.  Immense  ruins  surround  it  in  every 
direction,  attesting  the  former  grandeur  of  this 
“ city  of  the  plain.”  The  great  square  or  mar- 
ket-place is  a remarkable  spot,  surrounded  by 
a heavy  massive  piazza,  over  which  rise  black 
buildings  of  great  antiquity.  We  found  the 


Ch.  III.] 


THE  CATALANS. 


53 


town  crowded  with  people  awaiting  the  fair, 
which  was  to  be  held  in  a day  or  two.  We 
experienced  some  difficulty  in  obtaining  admis- 
sion into  the  posada,  which  was  chiefly  occupied 
by  Catalans  from  Valladolid.  These  people  not 
only  brought  with  them  their  merchandize  but 
their  wives  and  children.  Some  of  them  ap- 
peared to  be  people  of  the  worst  description: 
there  was  one  in  particular,  a burly  savage  look- 
ing fellow,  of  about  forty,  whose  conduct  was 
atrocious ; he  sat  with  his  wife,  or  perhaps  concu- 
bine, at  the  door  of  a room  which  opened  upon  the 
court : he  was  continually  venting  horrible  and  ob- 
scene oaths,  both  in  Spanish  and  Catalan.  The 
woman  was  remarkably  handsome,  but  robust  and 
seemingly  as  savage  as  himself ; her  conversation 
likewise  was  as  frightful  as  his  own.  Both  seemed 
to  be  under  the  influence  of  an  incomprehensible 
fury.  At  last,  upon  some  observation  from  the 
woman,  he  started  up,  and  drawing  a long  knife 
from  his  girdle,  stabbed  at  her  naked  bosom ; she, 
however,  interposed  the  palm  of  her  hand,  which 
was  much  cut.  He  stood  for  a moment  viewing 


54 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  Ill 


the  blood  trickling  upon  the  ground,  whilst  she 
held  up  her  wounded  hand,  then  with  an  as- 
tounding oath  he  hurried  up  the  court  to  the  Plaza. 
I went  up  to  the  woman  and  said,  “ What  is  the 
cause  of  this  ? I hope  the  ruffian  has  not  se- 
riously injured  you.”  She  turned  her  countenance 
upon  me  with  the  glance  of  a demon,  and  at  last 
with  a sneer  of  contempt  exclaimed,  “ Carols , que 
es  eso?  Cannot  a Catalan  gentleman  be  convers- 
ing with  his  lady  upon  their  own  private  affairs 
without  being  interrupted  by  you  ?”  She  then 
bound  up  her  hand  with  a handkerchief,  and 
going  into  the  room  brought  a small  table  to  the 
door,  on  which  she  placed  several  things  as  if 
for  the  evening’s  repast,  and  then  sat  down  on  a 
stool : presently  returned  the  Catalan,  and  with- 
out a word  took  his  seat  on  the  threshold ; then, 
as  if  nothing  had  occurred,  the  extraordinary 
couple  commenced  eating  and  drinking,  inter- 
larding their  meal  with  oaths  and  jests. 

We  spent  the  night  at  Medina,  and  departing 
early  next  morning,  passed  through  much  the 
same  country  as  the  day  before,  until  about  noon 


dh.  in.] 


THE  FATAL  POOL. 


55 


we  reached  a small  venta,  distant  half  a league 
from  the  Duero ; here  we  reposed  ourselves 
during  the  heat  of  the  day,  and  then  remounting, 
crossed  the  river  by  a handsome  stone  bridge, 
and  directed  our  course  to  Valladolid.  The 
banks  of  the  Duero  in  this  place  have  much 
beauty : they  abound  with  trees  and  brushwood, 
amongst  which,  as  we  passed  along,  various  birds 
were  singing  melodiously.  A delicious  cool- 
ness proceeded  from  the  water,  which  in  some 
parts  brawled  over  stones  or  rippled  fleetly  over 
white  sand,  and  in  others  glided  softly  over  blue 
pools  of  considerable  depth.  By  the  side  of  one 
of  these  last,  sat  a woman  of  about  thirty,  neatly 
dressed  as  a peasant ; she  was  gazing  upon  the 
water  into  which  she  occasionally  flung  flowers 
and  twigs  of  trees.  I stopped  for  a moment  to  ask 
a question ; she,  however,  neither  looked  up  nor 
answered,  but  continued  gazing  at  the  water  as 
if  lost  to  consciousness  of  all  beside.  “ Who  is 
that  woman  ?”  said  I to  a shepherd,  whom  I met 
the  moment  after.  “ She  is  mad,  la  pobrecita ,” 
said  he  : “ she  lost  her  child  about  a month  ago 
in  that  pool,  and  she  has  been  mad  ever  since ; 


56 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  III. 


they  are  going  to  send  her  to  Valladolid,  to  the 
Casa  de  los  Locos.  There  are  many  who  perish 
every  year  in  the  eddies  of  the  Duero  ; it  is  a bad 
river;  vaya  usted  con  la  Virgen , Caballero .”  So 
I rode  on  through  the  pinares,  or  thin  scanty 
pine  forests,  which  skirt  the  way  to  Valladolid  in 
this  direction. 

Valladolid  is  seated  in  the  midst  of  an  im- 
mense valley,  or  rather  hollow  which  seems 
to  have  been  scooped  by  some  mighty  con- 
vulsion out  of  the  plain  ground  of  Castile.  The 
eminences  which  appear  in  the  neighbourhood 
are  not  properly  high  grounds,  but  are  rather 
the  sides  of  this  hollow.  They  are  jagged 
and  precipitous,  and  exhibit  a strange  and  un- 
couth appearance.  Volcanic  force  seems  at 
some  distant  period  to  have  been  busy  in  these 
districts.  Valladolid  abounds  with  convents,  at 
present  deserted,  which  afford  some  of  the  finest 
specimens  of  architecture  in  Spain.  The  principal 
church,  though  rather  ancient,  is  unfinished:  it 
was  intended  to  be  a building  of  vast  size,  but 
the  means  of  the  founders  were  insufficient  to 
carry  out  their  plan : it  is  built  of  rough  granite 


Ch.  III.] 


VALLADOLID. 


57 


Valladolid  is  a manufacturing  town,  but  the  com- 
merce is  chiefly  in  the  hands  of  the  Catalans,  of 
whom  there  is  a colony  of  nearly  three  hundred 
established  here.  It  possesses  a beautiful  ala- 
meda,  or  public  walk,  through  which  flows  the 
river  Escurva.  The  population  is  said  to  amount 
to  sixty  thousand  souls. 

We  put  up  at  the  Posada  de  las  Diligencias,  a 
very  magnificent  edifice : this  posada,  however, 
we  were  glad  to  quit  on  the  second  day  after  our 
arrival,  the  accommodation  being  of  the  most 
wretched  description,  and  the  incivility  of  the 
people  great;  the  master  of  the  house,  an  im- 
mense tall  fellow,  with  huge  moustaches  and  an 
assumed  military  air,  being  far  too  high  a cavalier 
to  attend  to  the  wants  of  his  guests,  with  whom,  it 
is  true,  he  did  not  appear  to  be  overburdened,  as 
I saw  no  one  but  Antonio  and  myself.  He  was 
a leading  man  amongst  the  national  guards  of 
Valladolid,  and  delighted  in  parading  about  the 
city  on  a clumsy  steed,  which  he  kept  in  a sub- 
terranean stable. 

Our  next  quarters  were  at  the  Trojan  Horse,  an 
ancient  posada,  kept  by  a native  of  the  Basque  pro- 

d 3 


58 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  III. 


vinces,  who  at  least  was  not  above  his  business. 
We  found  every  thing  in  confusion  at  Valladolid, 
a visit  from  the  factious  being  speedily  expected. 
All  the  gates  were  blockaded,  and  various  forts  had 
been  built  to  cover  the  approaches  to  the  city. 
Shortly  after  our  departure  the  Carlists  actually  did 
arrive,  under  the  cammand  of  the  Biscayan  chief, 
Zariategui.  They  experienced  no  opposition  ; the 
staunchest  nationals  retiring  to  the  principal  fort, 
which  they,  however,  speedily  surrendered,  not  a 
gun  being  fired  throughout  the  affair.  As  for  my 
friend  the  hero  of  the  inn,  on  the  first  rumour  of 
the  approach  of  the  enemy,  he  mounted  his  horse 
and  rode  off',  and  was  never  subsequently  heard 
of.  On  our  return  to  Valladolid,  we  found  the 
inn  in  other  and  better  hands,  those  of  a French- 
man from  Bayonne,  from  whom  we  received  as 
much  civility  as  we  had  experienced  rudeness 
from  his  predecessor. 

In  a few  days  I formed  the  acquaintance  of  the 
bookseller  of  the  place,  a kind-hearted  simple 
man,  who  willingly  undertook  the  charge  of  vend- 
ing the  Testaments  which  I brought. 

I found  literature  of  every  description  at  the 


Ch.  III.]  CIRCULATION  OF  THE  SCRIPTURE. 


59 


lowest  ebb  at  Valladolid.  My  newly  acquired 
friend  merely  carried  on  bookselling  in  connexion 
with  other  business ; it  being,  as  he  assured  me, 
in  itself  quite  insufficient  to  afford  him  a liveli- 
hood. During  the  week,  however,  that  I con- 
tinued in  this  city,  a considerable  number  of  co- 
pies were  disposed  of,  and  a fair  prospect  opened 
that  many  more  would  be  demanded.  To  call 
attention  to  my  books,  I had  recourse  to  the  same 
plan  which  I had  adopted  at  Salamanca,  the  affix- 
ing of  advertisements  to  the  walls.  Before  leaving 
the  city,  I gave  orders  that  these  should  be  re- 
newed every  week;  from  pursuing  which  course  I 
expected  that  much  and  manifold  good  would 
accrue,  as  the  people  would  have  continual  oppor- 
tunities of  learning  that  a book  which  contains  the 
living  word  was  in  existence,  and  within  their 
reach,  which  might  induce  them  to  secure  it  and 
consult  it  even  unto  salvation.  ...... 


In  Valladolid  I found  both  an  English  and 
Scotch  College.  From  my  obliging  friends,  the 
Irish  at  Salamanca,  I bore  a letter  of  introduction 
to  the  rector  of  the  latter.  I found  this  college 


60 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  III. 


an  old  gloomy  edifice,  situated  in  a retired  street. 
The  rector  was  dressed  in  the  habiliments  of  a 
Spanish  ecclesiastic,  a character  which  he  was  evi- 
dently ambitious  of  assuming.  There  was  some- 
thing dry  and  cold  in  his  manner,  and  nothing  of 
that  generous  warmth  and  eager  hospitality  which 
had  so  captivated  me  in  the  fine  Irish  rector  of 
Salamanca ; he  was,  however,  civil  and  polite,  and 
offered  to  show  me  the  curiosities  of  the  place. 
He  evidently  knew  who  T was,  and  on  that  ac- 
count was,  perhaps,  more  reserved  than  he  other- 
wise would  have  been  : not  a word  passed  be- 
tween us  on  religious  matters,  which  we  seemed 
to  avoid  by  common  consent.  Under  the  auspices 
of  this  gentleman,  I visited  the  college  of  the  Phi- 
lippine Missions,  which  stands  beyond  the  gate  of 
the  city,  where  I was  introduced  to  the  superior, 
a fine  old  man  of  seventy,  very  stout,  in  the  ha- 
biliments of  a friar.  There  was  an  air  of  placid 
benignity  on  his  countenance  which  highly  inter- 
ested me  : his  words  were  few  and  simple,  and 
he  seemed  to  have  bid  adieu  to  all  worldly  pas- 
sions. One  little  weakness  was,  however,  still 
clinging  to  him. 


Ch.  III.] 


PHILIPPINE  MISSIONS. 


61 


Myself. — This  is  a noble  edifice  in  which  you 
dwell,  Father;  I should  think  it  would  contain  at 
least  two  hundred  students. 

Rector. — More,  my  son:  it  is  intended  for 
more  hundreds  than  it  now  contains  single  indi- 
viduals. 

Myself. — I observe  that  some  rude  attempts 
have  been  made  to  fortify  it ; the  walls  are 
pierced  with  loopholes  in  every  direction. 

Rector. — The  nationals  of  Valladolid  visited  us 
a few  days  ago,  and  committed  much  useless  da- 
mage ; they  were  rather  rude,  and  threatened  me 
with  their  clubs  : poor  men,  poor  men. 

Myself — I suppose  that  even  these  missions, 
which  are  certainly  intended  for  a noble  end,  ex- 
perience the  sad  effects  of  the  present  convulsed 
state  of  Spain  ? 

Rector. — But  too  true : we  at  present  receive 
no  assistance  from  the  government,  and  are  left 
to  the  Lord  and  ourselves. 

Myself. — How  many  aspirants  for  the  mission 
are  you  at  present  instructing  ? 

Rector . — Not  one,  my  son ; not  one.  They  are 


62  THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN.  [Ch.  III. 

all  fled.  The  flock  is  scattered  and  the  shepherd 
left  alone. 

Myself. — Your  reverence  has  doubtless  taken 
an  active  part  in  the  mission  abroad  ? 

Rector . — I was  forty  years  in  the  Philippines, 
my  son,  forty  years  amongst  the  Indians.  Ah 
me!  how  I love  those  Indians  of  the  Philip- 
pines. 

Myself — Can  your  reverence  discourse  in  the 
language  of  the  Indians  ? 

Rector . — No,  my  son.  We  teach  the  Indians 
Castilian.  There  is  no  better  language,  I believe. 
We  teach  them  Castilian,  and  the  adoration  of 
the  Virgin.  What  more  need  they  know  ? 

Myself — And  what  did  your  reverence  think  of 
the  Philippines  as  a country  ? 

Rector . — I was  forty  years  in  the  Philippines, 
but  I know  little  of  the  country.  I do  not  like 
the  country.  I love  the  Indians.  The  country 
is  not  very  bad ; it  is,  however,  not  worth  Cas- 
tile. 

Myself — Is  your  reverence  a Castilian  ? 

Rector. — I am  an  Old  Castilian,  my  son. 


Ch.  III.] 


ENGLISH  COLLEGE. 


63 


From  the  house  of  the  Philippine  Missions  my 
friend  conducted  me  to  the  English  College  : this 
establishment  seemed  in  every  respect  to  be  on  a 
more  magnificent  scale  than  its  Scottish  sister. 
In  the  latter  there  were  few  pupils,  scarcely  six  or 
seven,  I believe,  whilst  in  the  English  seminary 
I was  informed  that  between  thirty  and  forty  were 
receiving  their  education.  It  is  a beautiful  build- 
ing, with  a small  but  splendid  church,  and  a hand- 
some library.  The  situation  is  light  and  airy  : it 
stands  by  itself  in  an  unfrequented  part  of  the 
city,  and,  with  genuine  English  exclusiveness,  is 
surrounded  by  a high  wall,  which  incloses  a de- 
licious garden.  This  is  by  far  the  most  remark- 
able establishment  of  the  kind  in  the  Peninsula, 
and  I believe  the  most  prosperous.  From  the 
cursory  view  which  I enjoyed  of  its  interior,  I of 
course  cannot  be  expected  to  know  much  of  its 
economy.  I could  not,  however,  fail  to  be  struck 
with  the  order,  neatness,  and  system  which  per- 
vaded it.  There  was,  however,  an  air  of  severe 
monastic  discipline,  though  I am  far  from  assert- 
ing that  such  actually  existed.  We  were  attended 
throughout  by  the  sub-rector,  the  principal  being 


64 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  III. 


absent.  Of  all  the  curiosities  of  this  college,  the 
most  remarkable  is  the  picture  gallery,  which  con- 
tains neither  more  nor  less  than  the  portraits  of  a 
variety  of  scholars  of  this  house  who  eventually 
suffered  martyrdom  in  England,  in  the  exercise  of 
their  vocation  in  the  angry  times  of  the  Sixth 
Edward  and  fierce  Elizabeth.  Yes,  in  this  very 
house  were  many  of  those  pale  smiling  half-foreign 
priests  educated,  who,  like  stealthy  grimalkins,  tra- 
versed green  England  in  all  directions  ; crept  into 
old  halls  beneath  umbrageous  rookeries,  fanning 
the  dying  embers  of  Popery,  with  no  other  hope 
nor  perhaps  wish  than  to  perish  disembowelled  by 
the  bloody  hands  of  the  executioner,  amongst 
the  yells  of  a rabble  as  bigoted  as  themselves : 
priests  like  Bedingfield  and  Garnet,  and  many 
others  who  have  left  a name  in  English  story. 
Doubtless, many  a history,  only  the  more  wonder- 
ful for  being  true,  could  be  wrought  out  of  the 
archives  of  the  English  Popish  seminary  at  Valla- 
dolid. 

There  was  no  lack  of  guests  at  the  Trojan 
Horse,  where  we  had  taken  up  our  abode  at  Val- 
ladolid. Amongst  others  who  arrived  during  my 


Ch.  III.] 


A CONVERSATION. 


65 


sojourn  was  a robust  buxom  dame,  exceedingly 
well  dressed  in  black  silk,  with  a costly  mantilla. 
She  was  accompanied  by  a very  handsome,  but 
sullen  and  malicious  looking  urchin  of  about  fif- 
teen, who  appeared  to  be  her  son.  She  came 
from  Toro,  a place  about  a day’s  journey  from 
Valladolid,  and  celebrated  for  its  wine.  One 
night,  as  we  were  seated  in  the  court  of  the  inn 
enjoying  the  fresco,  the  following  conversation 
ensued  between  us. 

Lady . — Vaya,  vaya,  what  a tiresome  place  is 
Valladolid  ! How  different  from  Toro  ! 

Myself. — I should  have  thought  that  it  is 
at  least  as  agreeable  as  Toro,  which  is  not  a third 
part  so  large. 

Lady. — As  agreeable  as  Toro  ! Vaya,  vaya ! 
Were  you  ever  in  the  prison  of  Toro,  Sir  Cava- 
lier ? 

Myself. — I have  never  had  that  honour ; the 
prison  is  generally  the  last  place  which  I think  of 
visiting. 

Lady. — See  the  difference  of  tastes : I have 
been  to  see  the  prison  of  Valladolid,  and  it  seems 
as  tiresome  as  the  town. 


66 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  III. 


Myself. — Of  course,  if  grief  and  tediousness  exist 
anywhere,  you  will  find  them  in  the  prison. 

Lady.- — Not  in  that  of  Toro. 

Myself. — What  does  that  of  Toro  possess  to 
distinguish  it  from  all  others  ? 

Lady. — What  does  it  possess?  Vaya!  Am 
I not  the  carcelera  ? Is  not  my  husband  the 
alcayde  ? Is  not  that  son  of  mine  a child  of  the 
prison  ? 

Myself. — I beg  your  pardon,  I was  not  aware 
of  that  circumstance  ; it  of  course  makes  much 
difference. 

Lady. — I believe  you.  I am  a daughter  of  that 
prison  : my  father  was  alcayde,  and  my  son  might 
hope  to  be  so,  were  he  not  a fool. 

Myself. — His  countenance  then  belies  him 
strangely : I should  be  loth  to  purchase  that 
youngster  for  a fool. 

Gaoleress. — You  would  have  a fine  bargain  if 
you  did;  he  has  more  picardias  than  any  Cala- 
bozero  in  Toro.  What  I mean  is,  that  he  does  not 
take  to  the  prison  as  he  ought  to  do,  considering 
what  his  fathers  were  before  him.  He  has  too  much 
pride — too  many  fancies ; and  he  has  at  length 


Oh.  III.] 


THE  GAOLERESS. 


67 


persuaded  me  to  bring  him  to  Valladolid,  where 
I have  arranged  with  a merchant  who  lives  in  the 
Plaza  to  take  him  on  trial.  I wish  he  may  not 
find  his  way  to  the  prison : if  he  do,  he  will  find 
that  being  a prisoner  is  a very  different  thing  from 
being  a son  of  the  prison. 

Myself \ — As  there  is  so  much  merriment  at 
Toro,  you  of  course  attend  to  the  comfort  of 
your  prisoners. 

Gaoleress. — Yes,  we  are  very  kind  to  them ; 
I mean  to  those  who  are  Caballeros;  but  as  for 
those  with  vermin  and  miseria,  what  can  we  do  ? 
It  is  a merry  prison  that  of  Toro ; we  allow  as 
much  wine  to  enter  as  the  prisoners  can  purchase 
and  pay  duty  for.  This  of  Valladolid  is  not  half 
so  gay : there  is  no  prison  like  Toro.  I learned 
there  to  play  on  the  guitar.  An  Andalusian  cava- 
lier taught  me  to  touch  the  guitar  and  to  sing  a 
la  Gitana.  Poor  fellow,  he  was  my  first  novio. 
Juanito,  bring  me  the  guitar,  that  I may  play  this 
gentleman  a tune  of  Andalusia. 

The  carcelera  had  a fine  voice,  and  touched 
the  favourite  instrument  of  the  Spaniards  in  a 
truly  masterly  manner.  I remained  listening  to 


68 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  III. 


her  performance  for  nearly  an  hour,  when  I re- 
tired to  my  apartment  and  my  repose.  I believe 
that  she  continued  playing  and  singing  during  the 
greater  part  of  the  night,  for  as  I occasionally 
awoke  I could  still  hear  her;  and,  even  in  mv 
slumbers,  the  strings  were  ringing  in  my  ears. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


DUEN AS.  —CHILDREN  OF  EGYPT JOCKEYISM.  — THE  BAGGAGE 

PONY THE  FALL.  — PALENCIA.— CARLIST  PRIESTS THE  LOOK 

OUT.  — PRIESTLY  SINCERITY LF.ON.  ANTONIO  ALARMED.  — 

HEAT  AND  DUST. 

After  a sojourn  of  about  ten  days  at  Valladolid, 
we  directed  our  course  towards  Leon.  We  ar- 
rived about  noon  at  Dueiias,  a town  at  the  dis- 
tance of  six  short  leagues  from  Valladolid.  It  is 
in  every  respect  a singular  place : it  stands  on  a 
rising  ground,  and  directly  above  it  towers  a steep 
conical  mountain  of  calcarious  earth,  crowned  by 
a ruined  castle.  Around  Duehas  are  seen  a mul- 
titude of  caves  scooped  in  the  high  banks  and 
secured  with  strong  doors.  These  are  cellars,  in 
which  is  deposited  the  wine,  of  which  abundance 
is  grown  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  which  is 
chiefly  sold  to  the  Navarrese  and  the  moun- 
taineers of  Santander,  who  arrive  in  cars  drawn 
by  oxen,  and  convey  it  away  in  large  quantities. 
We  put  up  at  a mean  posada  in  the  suburb  for 


70 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IV. 


the  purpose  of  refreshing  our  horses.  Several 
cavalry  soldiers  were  quartered  there,  who  in- 
stantly came  forth,  and  began,  with  the  eyes  of 
connoisseurs,  to  inspect  my  Andalusian  entero. 
“ A capital  horse  that  would  be  for  our  troop,” 
said  the  corporal ; “ what  a chest  he  has.  By 
what  right  do  you  travel  with  that  horse,  Seiior, 
when  so  many  are  wanted  for  the  Queen’s  service  ? 
He  belongs  to  the  requiso.”  u I travel  with  him 
by  right  of  purchase,  and  being  an  Englishman,” 
I replied.  “ Oh,  your  worship  is  an  Englishman,” 
answered  the  corporal ; “ that,  indeed,  alters  the 
matter;  the  English  in  Spain  are  allowed  to  do 
what  they  please  with  their  own,  which  is  more 
than  the  Spaniards  are.  Cavalier,  I have  seen 
your  countrymen  in  the  Basque  provinces ; Vaya, 
what  riders  ! what  horses  ! They  do  not  fight 
badly  either.  But  their  chief  skill  is  in  riding: 
I have  seen  them  dash  over  barrancos  to  get  at 
the  factious,  who  thought  themselves  quite  secure, 
and  then  they  would  fall  upon  them  on  a sudden 
and  kill  them  to  a man.  In  truth,  your  worship, 
this  is  a fine  horse,  I must  look  at  his  teeth.” 

T looked  at  the  corporal — his  nose  and  eyes 


Ch.  IV.] 


CHILDREN  OF  EGYPT. 


71 


were  in  the  horse’s  mouth : the  rest  of  the  party, 
who  might  amount  to  six  or  seven,  were  not  less 
busily  engaged.  One  was  examining  his  fore 
feet,  another  his  hind ; one  fellow  was  pulling  at 
his  tail  with  all  his  might,  while  another  pinched 
the  windpipe,  for  the  purpose  of  discovering 
whether  the  animal  was  at  all  touched  there.  At 
last  perceiving  that  the  corporal  was  about  to 
remove  the  saddle  that  he  might  examine  the 
back  of  the  animal,  I exclaimed  : — 

“ Stay,  ye  chabes  of  Egypt,  ye  forget  that  ye 
are  hundunares,  and  are  no  longer  paruguing 
grastes  in  the  chardy.” 

The  corporal  at  these  words  turned  his  face  full 
upon  me,  and  so  did  all  the  rest.  Yes,  sure 
enough,  there  were  the  countenances  of  Egypt, 
and  the  fixed  filmy  stare  of  eye.  We  con- 
tinued looking  at  each  other  for  a minute  at  least, 
when  the  corporal,  a villanous  looking  fellow, 
at  last  said,  in  the  richest  gypsy  whine  ima- 
ginable, “ the  erray  knows  us,  the  poor  Calore  ! 
And  he  an  Englishman  ! Bullati ! I should  not 
have  thought  that  there  was  e’er  a Busno  would 
know  us  in  these  parts,  where  Gitanos  are  never 


72 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IV. 


seen.  Yes,  your  worship  is  right ; we  are  all  here 
of  the  blood  of  the  Calore;  we  are  from  Mele- 
grana  (Granada),  your  worship ; they  took  us  from 
thence  and  sent  us  to  the  wars.  Your  worship  is 
right,  the  sight  of  that  horse  made  us  believe  we 
were  at  home  again  in  the  mercado  of  Granada  ; 
he  is  a countryman  of  ours,  a real  Andalou. 
Por  dios,  your  worship,  sell  us  that  horse ; we  are 
poor  Calore,  but  we  can  buy  him.” 

“ You  forget  that  you  are  soldiers,”  said  I. 
“ How  should  you  buy  my  horse  ? ” 

“ We  are  soldiers,  your  worship,”  said  the 
corporal,  “ but  we  are  still  Calore  ; we  buy  and 
sell  bestis  ; the  captain  of  our  troop  is  in  league 
with  us.  We  have  been  to  the  wars,  but  not  to 
fight ; we  left  that  to  the  Busne.  We  have  kept 
together,  and  like  true  Calore,  have  stood  back 
to  back.'  We  have  made  money  in  the  wars, 
your  worship.  No  tenga  listed  cuidao  (be  under 
no  apprehension).  We  can  buy  your  horse.” 

Here  he  pulled  out  a purse,  which  contained  at 
least  ten  ounces  of  gold. 

“ If  I were  willing  to  sell,”  I replied,  “ what 
would  you  give  me  for  that  horse  ?” 


Ch.  IV.] 


JOCKEYISM. 


73 


“ Then  your  worship  wishes  to  sell  your  horse 
— that  alters  the  matter.  We  will  give  ten  dol- 
lars for  your  worship’s  horse.  He  is  good  for 
nothing.” 

“ How  is  this  ?”  said  I.  “ You  this  moment 
told  me  he  was  a fine  horse  — an  Andalusian, 
and  a countryman  of  yours.” 

66  No,  Senor ! we  did  not  say  that  he  was  an 
Andalou.  We  said  he  was  an  Estremou,  and 
the  worst  of  his  kind.  He  is  eighteen  years  old, 
your  worship,  short-winded  and  galled.” 

" I do  not  wish  to  sell  my  horse,”  said  I ; 
“ quite  the  contrary ; I had  rather  buy  than  sell.” 

“ Your  worship  does  not  wish  to  sell  your 
horse,”  said  the  Gypsy.  “ Stay,  your  worship, 
we  will  give  sixty  dollars  for  your  worship’s 
horse.” 

u I would  not  sell  him  for  two  hundred  and 
sixty.  Meclis  ! Meclis  ! say  no  more.  I know 
your  Gypsy  tricks.  I will  have  no  dealings  with 
you.” 

“ Did  I not  hear  your  worship  say  that  you 
wished  to  buy  a horse  ?”  said  the  Gypsy. 


VOL.  II. 


E 


74 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IV, 


“ I do  not  want  to  buy  a horse,”  said  I ; "if 
I need  any  thing,  it  is  a pony  to  carry  our  bag- 
gage ; but  it  is  getting  late.  Antonio,  pay  the 
reckoning.” 

“ Stay,  your  worship,  do  not  be  in  a hurry,” 
said  the  Gypsy : “ I have  got  the  very  pony 
which  will  suit  you.” 

Without  waiting  for  my  answer,  he  hurried 
into  the  stable,  from  whence  he  presently  re- 
turned, leading  an  animal  by  a halter.  It  was 
a pony  of  about  thirteen  hands  high,  of  a dark 
red  colour;  it  was  very  much  galled  all  over, 
the  marks  of  ropes  and  thongs  being  visible  on 
its  hide.  The  figure,  however,  was  good,  and 
there  was  an  extraordinary  brightness  in  its  eye. 

“ There,  your  worship,”  said  the  Gypsy ; 
" there  is  the  best  pony  in  all  Spain.” 

“ What  do  you  mean  by  shewing  me  this 
wretched  creature  ?”  said  I. 

" This  wretched  creature,”  said  the  Gypsy, 
“ is  a better  horse  than  your  Andalou  !” 

“ Perhaps  you  would  not  exchange,”  said  I, 
smiling. 


Ch.  IV.] 


THE  BAGGAGE  PONY. 


75 


“ Sehor,  what  I say  is,  that  he  shall  run  with 
your  Andalou,  and  beat  him  !” 

“ He  looks  feeble,”  said  I ; “ his  work  is  well 
nigh  done.” 

“ Feeble  as  he  is,  Sehor,  you  could  not  manage 
him  ; no,  nor  any  Englishman  in  Spain.” 

I looked  at  the  creature  again,  and  was  still 
more  struck  with  its  figure.  I was  in  need  of  a 
pony  to  relieve  occasionally  the  horse  of  An- 
tonio  in  carrying  the  baggage  which  we  had 
brought  from  Madrid,  and  though  the  condition 
of  this  was  wretched,  I thought  that  by  kind 
treatment  I might  possibly  soon  bring  him  round. 

“ May  I mount  this  animal  ?”  I demanded. 

“He  is  a baggage  pony,  Sehor,  and  is  ill 
to  mount.  He  will  suffer  none  but  myself  to 
mount  him,  who  am  his  master.  When  he  once 
commences  running,  nothing  will  stop  him  but 
the  sea.  He  springs  over  hills  and  mountains, 
and  leaves  them  behind  in  a moment.  If  you 
will  mount  him,  Sehor,  suffer  me  to  fetch  a 
bridle,  for  you  can  never  hold  him  in  with  the 
halter.” 

“ This  is  nonsense,”  said  I,  “You  pretend 


76 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IV. 


that  he  is  spirited  in  order  to  enhance  the  price. 
I tell  you  his  work  is  done.” 

I took  the  halter  in  my  hand  and  mounted. 
I was  no  sooner  on  his  back  than  the  creature, 
who  had  before  stood  stone  still,  without  display- 
ing the  slightest  inclination  to  move,  and  who 
in  fact  gave  no  farther  indication  of  existence 
than  occasionally  rolling  his  eyes  and  pricking 
up  an  ear,  sprang  forward  like  a racehorse,  at 
a most  desperate  gallop.  I had  expected  that 
he  might  kick  or  fling  himself  down  on  the 
ground,  in  order  to  get  rid  of  his  burden,  but 
for  this  escapade  I was  quite  unprepared.  I 
had  no  difficulty,  however,  in  keeping  on  his 
back,  having  been  accustomed  from  my  child- 
hood to  ride  without  a saddle.  To  stop  him, 
however,  baffled  all  my  endeavours,  and  I almost 
began  to  pay  credit  to  the  words  of  the  Gypsy, 
who  had  said  that  he  would  run  on  until  he 
reached  the  sea.  I had,  however,  a strong  arm, 
and  I tugged  at  the  halter  until  I compelled  him 
to  turn  slightly  his  neck,  which  from  its  stiffness 
might  almost  have  been  of  wood ; he,  however, 
did  not  abate  his  speed  for  a moment.  On 


Ch.  IV.] 


THE  FALL. 


77 


the  left  side  of  the  road  down  which  he  was  dash- 
ing was  a deep  trench,  just  where  the  road  took  a 
turn  towards  the  right,  and  over  this  he  sprang  in 
a sideward  direction ; the  halter  broke  with  the 
effort,  the  pony  shot  forward  like  an  arrow,  whilst 
I fell  back  into  the  dust.” 

“ Seiior!”  said  the  Gypsy,  coming  up  with  the 
most  serious  countenance  in  the  world,  “ I told 
you  not  to  mount  that  animal  unless  well  bridled 
and  bitted.  He  is  a baggage  pony,  and  will 
suffer  none  to  mount  his  back,  with  the  exception 
of  myself  who  feed  him.”  (Here  he  wdhstled, 
and  the  animal,  who  was  scurring  over  the 
field,  and  occasionally  kicking  up  his  heels,  in- 
stantly returned  with  a gentle  neigh.)  “ Now, 
your  worship,  see  how  gentle  he  is.  He  is  a 
capital  baggage  pony,  and  will  carry  all  you  have 
over  the  hills  of  Galicia.” 

“ What  do  you  ask  for  him?”  said  I. 

“ Seiior,  as  your  worship  is  an  Englishman, 
and  a good  ginete,  and,  moreover,  understands 
the  ways  of  the  Calore,  and  their  tricks  and 
their  language  also,  I will  sell  him  to  you  a 


78 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IV. 


bargain.  I will  take  two  hundred  and  sixty 
dollars  for  him  and  no  less.” 

“ That  is  a large  sum,”  said  I. 

“ No,  Senor,  not  at  all,  considering  that  he  is 
a baggage  pony,  and  belongs  to  the  troop,  and 
is  not  mine  to  sell.” 

Two  hours’  ride  brought  us  to  Palencia,  a fine 
old  town,  beautifully  situated  on  the  Carrion,  and 
famous  for  its  trade  in  wool.  We  put  up  at  the 
best  posada  which  the  place  afforded,  and  I 
forthwith  proceeded  to  visit  one  of  the  principal 
merchants  of  the  town,  to  whom  I was  recom- 
mended by  my  banker  in  Madrid.  I was  told, 
however,  that  he  was  taking  his  siesta.  “ Then 
I had  better  take  my  own,”  said  I,  and  returned 
to  the  posada.  In  the  evening  I went  again, 
when  I saw  him.  He  was  a short  bulky  man, 
about  thirty,  and  received  me  at  first  with  some 
degree  of  bluntness ; his  manner,  however,  pre- 
sently became  more  kind,  and  at  last  he  scarcely 
appeared  to  know  how  to  show  me  sufficient 
civility.  His  brother  had  just  arrived  from  San- 
tander, and  to  him  he  introduced  me.  This  last 


Ch.  IV.] 


PALENCIA. 


79 


was  a highly  intelligent  person,  and  had  passed 
many  years  of  his  life  in  England.  They  both 
insisted  upon  shewing  me  the  town,  and,  indeed, 
led  me  all  over  it,  and  about  the  neighbourhood. 
I particularly  admired  the  cathedral,  a light, 
elegant,  but  ancient  Gothic  edifice.  Whilst  we 
walked  about  the  aisles,  the  evening  sun,  pouring 
its  mellow  rays  through  the  arched  windows, 
illumined  some  beautiful  paintings  of  Murillo, 
with  which  the  sacred  edifice  is  adorned.  From 
the  church  my  friends  conducted  me  to  a fulling 
mill  in  the  neighbourhood,  by  a picturesque  walk. 
There  was  no  lack  either  of  trees  or  water,  and 
I remarked,  that  the  environs  of  Palencia  were 
amongst  the  most  pleasant  places  that  I had  ever 
seen. 

Tired  at  last  with  rambling,  we  repaired  to  a 
coffee-house,  where  they  regaled  me  with  choco- 
late and  sweetmeats.  Such  was  their  hospitality  ; 
and  of  hospitality  of  this  simple  and  agreeable 
kind  there  is  much  in  Spain. 

On  the  next  day  we  pursued  our  journey,  a 
dreary  one,  for  the  most  part,  over  bleak  and 
barren  plains,  interspersed  with  silent  and  cheer- 


80 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IV. 


less  towns  and  villages,  which  stood  at  the  dis- 
tance of  two  or  three  leagues  from  each  other. 
About  midday  we  obtained  a dim  and  distant 
view  of  an  immense  range  of  mountains,  which 
are  in  fact  those  which  bound  Castile  on  the 
north.  The  day,  however,  became  dim  and 
obscure,  and  we  speedily  lost  sight  of  them. 
A hollow  wind  now  arose  and  blew  over  these 
desolate  plains  with  violence,  wafting  clouds  of 
dust  into  our  faces ; the  rays  of  the  sun  were 
few,  and  those  red  and  angry.  I was  tired  of 
my  journey,  and  when  about  four  we  reached 
* * * ^ a large  village,  half  way  between 
Palencia  and  Leon,  I declared  my  intention  of 
stopping  for  the  night.  I scarcely  ever  saw  a 
more  desolate  place  than  this  same  town  or 
village  of  * * * * . The  houses  were  for  the 
most  partTarge,  but  the  walls  were  of  mud,  like 
those  of  barns.  We  saw  no  person  in  the  long 
winding  street  to  direct  us  to  the  venta,  or  po- 
sada,  till  at  last,  at  the  farther  end  of  the  place, 
we  descried  two  black  figures  standing  at  a door, 
of  whom,  on  making  inquiry,  we  learned  that 
the  door  at  which  they  stood  was  that  of  the 


Ch.  IV.]  CARLIST  PRIESTS.  81 

house  we  were  in  quest  of.  There  was  some- 
thing strange  in  the  appearance  of  these  two 
beings,  who  seemed  the  genii  of  the  place.  One 
was  a small  slim  man,  about  fifty,  with  sharp 
ill-natured  features.  He  was  dressed  in  coarse 
black  worsted  stockings,  black  breeches,  and  an 
ample  black  coat  with  long  trailing  skirts.  1 
should  at  once  have  taken  him  for  an  ecclesiastic, 
but  for  his  hat,  which  had  nothing  clerical  about 
it,  being  a pinched  diminutive  beaver.  His 
companion  was  of  low  stature,  and  a much 
younger  man.  He  was  dressed  in  similar  fa- 
shion, save  that  he  wore  a dark  blue  cloak. 
Both  carried  walking-sticks  in  their  hands,  and 
kept  hovering  about  the  door,  now  within  and 
now  without,  occasionally  looking  up  the  road, 
as  if  they  expected  some  one. 

“ Trust  me,  mon  maitre,”  said  Antonio  to  me, 
in  French,  “ those  two  fellows  are  Carlist  priests, 
and  are  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  Pretender. 
Les  imbeciUes  /” 

We  conducted  our  horses  to  the  stable,  to 
which  we  were  shown  by  the  woman  of  the  house. 
64  Who  are  those  men  ? ” said  I to  her. 


82 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IV. 


“ The  eldest  is  head  curate  to  our  pueblo,” 
said  she ; “ the  other  is  brother  to  my  husband. 
Pobrecito  ! he  was  a friar  in  our  convent  before 
it  was  shut  up  and  the  brethren  driven  forth.” 

We  returned  to  the  door.  “ I suppose,  gentle- 
men,” said  the  curate,  “ that  you  are  Catalans. 
Do  you  bring  any  news  from  that  kingdom  ?” 

“ Why  do  you  suppose  we  are  Catalans?”  I 
demanded. 

“ Because  I heard  you  this  moment  conversing 
in  that  language.” 

“ I bring  no  news  from  Catalonia,”  said  I.  “ I 
believe,  however,  that  the  greater  part  of  that 
principality  is  in  the  hands  of  the  Carlists.” 

“ Ahem,  brother  Pedro  ! This  gentleman  says 
that  the  greater  part  of  Catalonia  is  in  the  hands 
of  the  royalists.  Pray,  sir,  where  may  Don  Carlos 
be  at  present  with  his  army  ? ” 

“ He  may  be  coming  down  the  road  this  mo- 
ment,” said  I,  “ for  what  I know ; ” and,  stepping- 
out,  I looked  up  the  way. 

The  two  figures  were  at  my  side  in  a moment ; 
Antonio  followed,  and  we  all  four  looked  intently 
up  the  road. 


Ch.  IV.] 


THE  LOOK-OUT. 


83 


“ Do  you  see  any  thing  ?”  said  I at  last  to  An- 
tonio. 

“ Non,  mon  maitre.” 

“ Do  you  see  any  thing,  sir  ?”  said  I to  the 
curate. 

“ I see  nothing,”  said  the  curate,  stretching  out 
his  neck. 

“ I see  nothing,”  said  Pedro,  the  ex-friar ; “ I 
see  nothing  but  the  dust,  which  is  becoming  every 
moment  more  blinding.” 

“I  shall  go  in,  then,”  said  I.  “ Indeed,  it  is 
scarcely  prudent  to  be  standing  here  looking  out 
for  the  Pretender:  should  the  nationals  of  the 
town  hear  of  it,  they  might  perhaps  shoot  us.” 

“ Ahem,”  said  the  curate,  following  me  ; “ there 
are  no  nationals  in  this  place : I would  fain  see 
what  inhabitant  would  dare  become  a national. 
When  the  inhabitants  of  this  place  were  ordered 
to  take  up  arms  as  nationals,  they  refused  to  a 
man,  and  on  that  account  we  had  to  pay  a mulct ; 
therefore,  friend,  you  may  speak  out  if  you  have 
any  thing  to  communicate ; we  are  all  of  your 
opinion  here.” 

“ I am  of  no  opinion  at  all,”  said  I,  “ save  that 


84 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IV. 


I want  my  supper.  I am  neither  for  Rey  nor 
Roque.  You  say  that  I am  a Catalan,  and  you 
know  that  Catalans  think  only  of  their  own 
affairs.” 

In  the  evening  I strolled  by  myself  about  the 
village,  which  I found  still  more  forlorn  and  me- 
lancholy than  it  at  first  appeared ; perhaps,  how- 
ever, it  had  been  a place  of  consequence  in.  its 
time.  In  one  corner  of  it  I found  the  ruins  of  a 
large  clumsy  castle,  chiefly  built  of  flint  stones : 
into  these  ruins  I attempted  to  penetrate,  but  the 
entrance  was  secured  by  a gate.  From  the  castle 
I found  my  way  to  the  convent,  a sad  desolate 
place,  formerly  the  residence  of  mendicant  bro- 
thers of  the  order  of  St.  Francis.  I was  aboutto 
return  to  the  inn,  when  I heard  a loud  buzz  of 
voices,  and,  following  the  sound,  presently  reached 
a kind  of  meadow,  where,  upon  a small  knoll,  sat 
a priest  in  full  canonicals,  reading  in  a loud  voice 
a newspaper,  while  around  him,  either  erect  or 
seated  on  the  grass,  were  assembled  about  fifty 
vecinos,  for  the  most  part  dressed  in  long  cloaks, 
amongst  whom  I discovered  my  two  friends  the 
curate  and  friar.  A fine  knot  of  Carlist  quid- 


Ch.  IV.] 


PRIESTLY  SINCERITY. 


85 


nuncs,  said  I to  myself,  and  turned  away  to 
another  part  of  the  meadow,  where  the  cattle  of 
the  village  were  grazing.  The  curate,  on  ob- 
serving me,  detached  himself  instantly  from  the 
group,  and  followed.  “ I am  told  you  want  a 
pony,”  said  he ; “ there  now  is  mine  feeding 
amongst  those  horses,  the  best  in  all  the  kingdom 
of  Leon.”  He  then  began  with  all  the  volu- 
bility of  a chalan  to  descant  on  the  points  of 
the  animal.  Presently  the  friar  joined  us,  who, 
observing  his  opportunity,  pulled  me  by  the 
sleeve  and  whispered,  “ Have  nothing  to  do  with 
the  curate,  master,  he  is  the  greatest  thief  in  the 
neighbourhood ; if  you  want  a pony,  my  brother 
has  a much  better,  which  he  will  dispose  of 
cheaper.”  “ I shall  wait  till  I arrive  at  Leon,”  I 
exclaimed,  and  walked  away,  musing  on  priestly 
friendship  and  sincerity. 

From  * * * * * to  Leon,  a distance  of  eight 
leagues,  the  country  rapidly  improved : we  passed 
over  several  small  streams,  and  occasionally  found 
ourselves  amongst  meadows  in  which  grass  was 
growing  in  the  richest  luxuriance.  The  sun  shone 
out  brightly,  and  I hailed  his  re-appearance  with 


86 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IV. 


joy,  though  the  heat  of  his  beams  was  oppressive. 
On  arriving  within  two  leagues  of  Leon,  we  passed 
numerous  cars  and  waggons,  and  bands  of  people 
with  horses  and  mules,  all  hastening  to  the  cele- 
brated fair  which  is  held  in  the  city  on  St.  John’s 
or  Midsummer  day,  and  which  took  place  within 
three  days  after  our  arrival.  This  fair,  though 
principally  intended  for  the  sale  of  horses,  is 
frequented  by  merchants  from  many  parts  of 
Spain,  who  attend  with  goods  of  various  kinds, 
and  amongst  them  I remarked  many  of  the  Cata- 
lans whom  I had  previously  seen  at  Medina  and 
Valladolid. 

There  is  nothing  remarkable  in  Leon,  which  is 
an  old  gloomy  town,  with  the  exception  of  its 
cathedral,  in  many  respects  a counterpart  of  the 
church  of  Palencia,  exhibiting  the  same  light  and 
elegant  architecture,  but,  unlike  its  beautiful  sister, 
unadorned  with  splendid  paintings.  The  situation 
of  Leon  is  highly  pleasant,  in  the  midst  of  a bloom- 
ing country,  abounding  with  trees,  and  watered  by 
many  streams,  which  have  their  source  in  the 
mighty  mountains  in  the  neighbourhood.  It  is, 
however,  by  no  means  a healthy  place,  especially 


Ch.  IV.] 


LEON. 


87 


in  summer,  when  the  heats  raise  noxious  exhala- 
tions from  the  waters,  generating  many  kinds  of 
disorders,  especially  fevers. 

I had  scarcely  been  at  Leon  three  days  when 
I was  seized  with  a fever,  against  which  I thought 
the  strength  even  of  my  constitution  would  have 
yielded,  for  it  wore  me  almost  to  a skeleton,  and 
when  it  departed,  at  the  end  of  about  a week, 
left  me  in  such  a deplorable  state  of  weakness 
that  1 was  scarcely  able  to  make  the  slightest 
exertion.  I had,  however,  previously  persuaded 
a bookseller  to  undertake  the  charge  of  vending 
the  Testaments,  and  had  published  my  adver- 
tisements as  usual,  though  without  very  sanguine 
hope  of  success,  as  Leon  is  a place  where  the 
inhabitants,  with  very  few  exceptions,  are  furious 
Carlists,  and  ignorant  and  blinded  followers  of 
the  old  papal  church.  It  is,  moreover,  a bishop’s 
see,  which  was  once  enjoyed  by  the  prime  coun- 
sellor of  Don  Carlos,  whose  fierce  and  bigoted 
spirit  still  seems  to  pervade  the  place.  Scarcely 
had  the  advertisements  appeared,  when  the  clergy 
were  in  motion.  They  went  from  house  to  house, 
banning  and  cursing,  and  denouncing  misery  to 


88 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IV. 


whomsoever  should  either  purchase  or  read  u the 
accursed  books,”  which  had  been  sent  into  the 
country  by  heretics  for  the  purpose  of  perverting 
the  innocent  minds  of  the  population.  They  did 
more ; they  commenced  a process  against  the 
bookseller  in  the  ecclesiastical  court.  For- 
tunately this  court  is  not  at  present  in  the  pos- 
session of  much  authority ; and  the  bookseller, 
a bold  and  determined  man,  set  them  at  defiance, 
and  went  so  far  as  to  affix  an  advertisement  to 
the  gate  of  the  very  cathedral.  Notwithstanding 
the  cry  raised  against  the  book,  several  copies 
were  sold  at  Leon : two  were  purchased  by  ex- 
friars, and  the  same  number  by  parochial  priests 
from  neighbouring  villages.  I believe  the  whole 
number  disposed  of  during  my  stay  amounted  to 
fifteen ; so  that  my  visit  to  this  dark  corner  was 
not  altogether  in  vain,  as  the  seed  of  the  gospel 
has  been  sown,  though  sparingly.  But  the  pal- 
pable darkness  which  envelopes  Leon  is  truly 
lamentable,  and  the  ignorance  of  the  people  is 
so  great,  that  printed  charms  and  incantations 
against  Satan  and  his  host,  and  against  every 
kind  of  misfortune,  are  publicly  sold  in  the  shops. 


Ch.  IV.] 


ANTONIO  AL AHMED. 


89 


and  are  in  great  demand.  Such  are  the  results 
of  Popery,  a delusion  which,  more  than  any  other, 
has  tended  to  debase  and  brutalize  the  human 
mind. 

I had  scarcely  risen  from  my  bed  where  the 
fever  had  cast  me,  when  I found  that  Antonio 
had  become  alarmed.  He  informed  me  that  he 
had  seen  several  soldiers  in  the  uniform  of  Don 
Carlos  lurking  at  the  door  of  the  posada,  and 
that  they  had  been  making  inquiries  concern- 
ing me. 

It  was  indeed  a singular  fact  connected  with 
Leon,  that  upwards  of  fifty  of  these  fellows,  who 
had  on  various  accounts  left  the  ranks  of  the 
Pretender,  were  walking  about  the  streets  dressed 
in  his  livery,  and  with  all  the  confidence  which 
the  certainty  of  protection  from  the  local  au- 
thorities could  afford  them  should  any  one  be 
disposed  to  interrupt  them. 

I learned  moreover  from  Antonio,  that  the  per- 
son in  whose  house  we  were  living  was  a noto- 
rious “ alcahuete,”  or  spy  to  the  robbers  in  the 
neighbourhood,  and  that  unless  we  took  our  de- 
parture speedily  and  unexpectedly,  we  should  to 


90 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IV. 


a certainty  be  plundered  on  the  road.  I did  not 
pay  much  attention  to  these  hints,  but  my  desire 
to  quit  Leon  was  great,  as  I was  convinced  that 
as  long  as  I continued  there  I should  be  unable 
to  regain  my  health  and  vigour. 

Accordingly,  at  three  in  the  morning,  we  de- 
parted for  Galicia.  We  had  scarcely  proceeded 
half  a league  when  we  were  overtaken  by  a thun- 
der-storm of  tremendous  violence.  We  were  at 
that  time  in  the  midst  of  a wood  which  extends 
to  some  distance  in  the  direction  in  which  we 
were  going.  The  trees  were  bowed  almost  to  the 
ground  by  the  wind  or  torn  up  by  the  roots, 
whilst  the  earth  was  ploughed  up  by  the  light- 
ning, which  burst  all  around  and  nearly  blinded 
us.  The  spirited  Andalusian  on  which  I rode 
became  furious,  and  bounded  into  the  air  as  if 
possessed.  Owing  to  my  state  of  weakness,  I 
had  the  greatest  difficulty  in  maintaining  my  seat, 
and  avoiding  a fall  which  might  have  been  fatal. 
A tremendous  discharge  of  rain  followed  the 
storm,  which  swelled  the  brooks  and  streams  and 
flooded  the  surrounding  country,  causing  much 
damage  amongst  the  corn.  After  riding  about 


Ch.  IV.] 


HEAT  AND  DUST. 


91 


five  leagues,  we  began  to  enter  the  mountainous 
district  which  surrounds  Astorga : the  heat  now 
became  almost  suffocating ; swarms  of  flies  began 
to  make  their  appearance,  and  settling  down  upon 
the  horses,  stung  them  almost  to  madness,  whilst 
the  road  was  very  flinty  and  trying.  It  was  with 
great  difficulty  that  we  reached  Astorga,  covered 
with  mud  and  dust,  our  tongues  cleaving  to  our 
palates  with  thirst. 


CHAPTER  V. 


ASTORGA. — THE  INN.— THE  MARAGATOS.  — HABITS  OF  THE  MA- 
RAGATOS.—  THE  STATUE. 

We  went  to  a posada  in  the  suburbs,  the  only 
one,  indeed,  which  the  place  afforded.  The  court- 
yard was  full  of  arrieros  and  carriers,  brawling 
loudly  ; the  master  of  the  house  was  fighting  with 
two  of  his  customers,  and  universal  confusion 
reigned  around.  As  I dismounted  I received  the 
contents  of  a wine-glass  in  my  face,  of  which 
greeting,  as  it  was  probably  intended  for  another, 
I took  no  notice.  Antonio,  however,  was  not  so 
patient,  for  on  being  struck  with  a cudgel,  he  in- 
stantly returned  the  salute  with  his  whip,  scarify- 
ing the  countenance  of  a carman.  In  my  endea- 
vours to  separate  these  two  antagonists,  my  horse 
broke  lose,  and  rushing  amongst  the  promiscuous 
crowd,  overturned  several  individuals  and  com- 
mitted no  little  damage.  It  was  a long  time 


Ch.  V.] 


ASTORGA. — THE  INN. 


93 


before  peace  was  restored : at  last  we  were  shown 
to  a tolerably  decent  chamber.  We  had,  how- 
ever, no  sooner  taken  possession  of  it,  than  the 
waggon  from  Madrid  arrived  on  its  way  to  Co- 
runa, filled  with  dusty  travellers,  consisting  of 
women,  children,  invalid  officers,  and  the  like. 
We  were  now  forthwith  dislodged,  and  our  baggage 
flung  into  the  yard.  On  our  complaining  of  this 
treatment,  we  were  told  that  we  were  two  vaga- 
bonds whom  nobody  knew ; who  had  come  with- 
out an  arriero,  and  had  already  set  the  whole 
house  in  confusion.  As  a great  favour,  however, 
we  were  at  length  permitted  to  take  up  our  abode 
in  a ruinous  building  down  the  yard,  adjoining 
the  stable,  and  filled  with  rats  and  vermin.  Here 
there  was  an  old  bed  with  a tester,  and  with  this 
wretched  accommodation  we  were  glad  to  content 
ourselves,  for  I could  proceed  no  farther,  and  was 
burnt  with  fever.  The  heat  of  the  place  was  in- 
tolerable, and  I sat  on  the  staircase  with  my  head 
between  my  hands,  gasping  for  breath  : soon  ap- 
peared Antonio  with  vinegar  and  water,  which  I 
drank  and  felt  relieved. 

We  continued  in  this  suburb  three  days,  during 


94 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  V. 


the  greatest  part  of  which  time  I was  stretched  on 
the  tester  bed.  I once  or  twice  contrived  to  make 
my  way  into  the  town,  but  found  no  bookseller, 
nor  any  person  willing  to  undertake  the  charge  of 
disposing  of  my  Testaments.  The  people  were 
brutal,  stupid,  and  uncivil,  and  I returned  to  my 
tester  bed  fatigued  and  dispirited.  Here  I lay 
listening  from  time  to  time  to  the  sweet  chimes 
which  rang  from  the  clock  of  the  old  cathedral. 
The  master  of  the  house  never  came  near  me, 
nor,  indeed,  once  inquired  about  me.  Beneath 
the  care  of  Antonio,  however,  I speedily  waxed 
stronger.  “ Mon  maitre ,”  said  he  to  me  one 
evening,  “ I see  you  are  better ; let  us  quit  this 
bad  town  and  worse  posada  to-morrow  morning. 
Allons , mon  maitre  ! II  est  temps  de  nous  mettre 
en  chemin  pour  Lugo  et  Galice .” 

Before  proceeding,  however,  to  narrate  what 
befell  us  in  this  journey  to  Lugo  and  Galicia,  it 
will,  perhaps,  not  be  amiss  to  say  a few  words 
concerning  Astorga  and  its  vicinity.  It  is  a walled 
town,  containing  about  five  or  six  thousand  inha- 
bitants, with  a cathedral  and  college,  which  last 
is,  however,  at  present  deserted.  It  is  situated  on 


Ch.  V.] 


THE  MARAGATOS. 


95 


the  confines,  and  may  be  called  the  capital  of  a 
tract  of  land  called  the  country  of  the  Maragatos, 
which  occupies  about  three  square  leagues,  and 
has  for  its  north-western  boundary  a mountain 
called  Telleno,  the  loftiest  of  a chain  of  hills 
which  have  their  origin  near  the  mouth  of  the 
river  Minho,  and  are  connected  with  the  immense 
range  which  constitutes  the  frontier  of  the  As- 
turias and  Guipuscoa. 

The  land  is  ungrateful  and  barren,  and  nig- 
gardly repays  the  toil  of  the  cultivator,  being  for 
the  most  part  rocky,  with  a slight  sprinkling  of 
red  brick  earth. 

The  Maragatos  are  perhaps  the  most  singular 
caste  to  be  found  amongst  the  chequered  popula- 
tion of  Spain.  They  have  their  own  peculiar 
customs  and  dress,  and  never  intermarry  with  the 
Spaniards.  Their  name  is  a clue  to  their  origin, 
as  it  signifies,  “ Moorish  Goths,”  and  at  the  pre- 
sent day  their  garb  differs  but  little  from  that  of 
the  Moors  of  Barbary,  as  it  consists  of  a long- 
tight  jacket,  secured  at  the  waist  by  a broad 
girdle,  loose  short  trousers  which  terminate  at 
the  knee,  and  boots  and  gaiters.  Their  heads  are 


96 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  V. 


shaven,  a slight  fringe  of  hair  being  only  left  at 
the  lower  part.  If  they  wore  the  turban  or  barret, 
they  could  scarcely  be  distinguished  from  the 
Moors  in  dress,  but  in  lieu  thereof  they  wear 
the  sombrero,  or  broad  slouching  hat  of  Spain. 
There  can  be  little  doubt  that  they  are  a remnant 
of  those  Goths  who  sided  with  the  Moors  on  their 
invasion  of  Spain,  and  who  adopted  their  religion, 
customs,  and  manner  of  dress,  which,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  first,  are  still  to  a considerable  degree 
retained  by  them.  It  is,  however,  evident  that  their 
blood  has  at  no  time  mingled  with  that  of  the  wild 
children  of  the  desert,  for  scarcely  amongst  the 
hills  of  Norway  would  you  find  figures  and  faces 
more  essentially  Gothic  than  those  of  the  Mara- 
gatos.  They  are  strong  athletic  men,  but  loutish 
and  heavy,  and  their  features,  though  for  the  most 
part  well  formed,  are  vacant  and  devoid  of  ex- 
pression. They  are  slow  and  plain  of  speech, 
and  those  eloquent  and  imaginative  sallies  so 
common  in  the  conversation  of  other  Spaniards, 
seldom  or  never  escape  them ; they  have,  more- 
over, a coarse  thick  pronunciation,  and  when  you 
hear  them  speak,  you  almost  imagine  that  it  is 


Ch.  V.]  HABITS  OF  THE  MARAGATOS. 


97 


some  German  or  English  peasant  attempting  to 
express  himself  in  the  language  of  the  Peninsula. 
They  are  constitutionally  phlegmatic,  and  it  is 
very  difficult  to  arouse  their  anger ; but  they  are 
dangerous  and  desperate  when  once  incensed; 
and  a person  who  knew  them  well,  told  me  that 
he  would  rather  face  ten  Valencians,  people  in- 
famous for  their  ferocity  and  blood-thirstiness, 
than  confront  one  angry  Maragato,  sluggish  and 
stupid  though  he  be  on  other  occasions. 

The  men  scarcely  ever  occupy  themselves  in 
husbandry,  which  they  abandon  to  the  women, 
who  plough  the  flinty  fields  and  gather  in  the 
scanty  harvests.  Their  husbands  and  sons  are 
far  differently  employed  : for  they  are  a nation  of 
arrieros  or  carriers,  and  almost  esteem  it  a dis- 
grace to  follow  any  other  profession.  On  every 
road  of  Spain,  particularly  those  north  of  the 
mountains  which  divide  the  two  Castiles,  may  be 
seen  gangs  of  fives  and  sixes  of  these  people 
lolling  or  sleeping  beneath  the  broiling  sun,  on 
gigantic  and  heavily  laden  mutes  and  mules. 
In  a word,  almost  the  entire  commerce  of  nearly 
one  half  of  Spain  passes  through  the  hands  of  the 


VOL.  II. 


F 


98 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  V. 


Maragatos,  whose  fidelity  to  their  trust  is  such, 
that  no  one  accustomed  to  employ  them  would 
hesitate  to  confide  to  them  the  transport  of  a ton 
of  treasure  from  the  sea  of  Biscay  to  Madrid  ; 
knowing  well  that  it  would  not  be  their  fault  were 
it  not  delivered  safe  and  undiminished,  even  of  a 
grain,  and  that  bold  must  be  the  thieves  who  would 
seek  to  wrest  it  from  the  far  feared  Maragatos, 
who  would  cling  to  it  whilst  they  could  stand,  and 
would  cover  it  with  their  bodies  when  they  fell  in 
the  act  of  loading  or  discharging  their  long  car- 
bines. 

But  they  are  far  from  being  disinterested,  and 
if  they  are  the  most  trustworthy  of  all  the  arrieros 
of  Spain,  they  in  general  demand  for  the  transport 
of  articles,  a sum  at  least  double  to  what  others 
of  the  trade  would  esteem  a reasonable  recom- 
pense : by  this  means  they  accumulate  large  sums 
of  money,  notwithstanding  that  they  indulge  them- 
selves in  far  superior  fare  to  that  which  contents 
in  general  the  parsimonious  Spaniard; — another 
argument  in  favour  of  their  pure  Gothic  descent ; 
for  the  Maragatos,  like  true  men  of  the  north,  de- 
light in  swilling  liquors  and  battening  upon  gross 


Ch.  V.] 


THE  STATUE. 


99 


and  luscious  meats,  which  help  to  swell  out  their 
tall  and  goodly  figures.  Many  of  them  have  died 
possessed  of  considerable  riches,  part  of  which 
they  have  not  unfrequently  bequeathed  to  the 
erection  or  embellishment  of  religious  houses. 

On  the  east  end  of  the  cathedral  of  Astorga, 
which  towers  over  the  lofty  and  precipitous  wall, 
a colossal  figure  of  lead  may  be  seen  on  the  roof. 
It  is  the  statue  of  a Maragato  carrier  who  endowed 
the  cathedral  with  a large  sum.  He  is  in  his  na- 
tional dress,  but  his  head  is  averted  from  the  land 
of  his  fathers,  and  whilst  he  waves  in  his  hand  a 
species  of  flag,  he  seems  to  be  summoning  his 
race  from  their  unfruitful  region  to  other  climes, 
where  a richer  field  is  open  to  their  industry  and 
enterprise. 

I spoke  to  several  of  these  men  respecting  the 
all-important  subject  of  religion  ; but  I found 
“ their  hearts  gross,  and  their  ears  dull  of  hearing, 
and  their  eyes  closed.”  There  was  one  in  par- 
ticular to  whom  I showed  the  New  Testament^ 
and  whom  I addressed  for  a considerable  time. 
He  listened  or  seemed  to  listen  patiently,  taking 
occasionally  copious  draughts  from  an  immense 


100 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  V. 


jug  of  whitish  wine  which  stood  between  his 
knees.  After  I had  concluded  he  said,  “ To- 
morrow I set  out  for  Lugo,  whither,  I am  told, 
yourself  are  going.  If  you  wish  to  send  your 
chest,  I have  no  objection  to  take  it  at  so  much 
(naming  an  extravagant  price).  As  for  what  you 
have  told  me,  I understand  little  of  it,  and  believe 
not  a word  of  it ; but  in  respect  to  the  books 
which  you  have  shown  me,  I will  take  three  or 
four.  I shall  not  read  them,  it  is  true,  but  I have 
no  doubt  that  I can  sell  them  at  a higher  price 
than  you  demand.” 

So  much  for  the  Maragatos. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


DEPARTURE  FROM  ASTORGA. — THE  VENTA. — THE  BY-PATH.— 
NARROW  ESCAPE. — THE  CUP  OF  WATER. — SUN  AND  SHADE. — 
BEMBIBRE. — CONVENT  OF  THE  ROCKS. — SUNSET. — CACABELOS. 
— MIDNIGHT  ADVENTURE. — VILLAFRANCA. 

It  was  four  o’clock  of  a beautiful  morning  when 
we  sallied  from  Astorga,  or  rather  from  its  suburbs, 
in  which  we  had  been  lodged  : we  directed  our 
course  to  the  north,  in  the  direction  of  Galicia. 
Leaving  the  mountain  Telleno  on  our  left,  we 
passed  along  the  eastern  skirts  of  the  land  of 
the  Maragatos,  over  broken  uneven  ground,  en- 
livened here  and  there  by  small  green  valleys  and 
runnels  of  water.  Several  of  the  Maragatan  wo- 
men, mounted  on  donkeys,  passed  us  on  their 
way  to  Astorga,  whither  they  were  carrying  vege- 
tables. We  saw  others  in  the  fields  handling 
their  rude  ploughs,  drawn  by  lean  oxen.  We 
likewise  passed  through  a small  village,  in  which 
we,  however,  saw  no  living  soul.  Near  this  vil- 
lage we  entered  the  high  road  which  leads  di- 


102 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VI. 


rect  from  Madrid  to  Coruna,  and  at  last,  having 
travelled  near  four  leagues,  we  came  to  a species 
of  pass,  formed  on  our  left  by  a huge  lumpish 
hill,  (one  of  those  which  descend  from  the  great 
mountain  Telleno,)  and  on  our  right  by  one  of 
much  less  altitude.  In  the  middle  of  this  pass, 
which  was  of  considerable  breadth,  a noble  view 
opened  itself  to  us.  Before  us,  at  the  distance 
of  about  a league  and  a half,  rose  the  mighty 
frontier  chain,  of  which  I have  spoken  before  ; 
its  blue  sides  and  broken  and  picturesque  peaks 
still  wearing  a thin  veil  of  the  morning  mist, 
which  the  fierce  rays  of  the  sun  were  fast  dis- 
pelling. It  seemed  an  enormous  barrier,  threat- 
ening to  oppose  our  farther  progress,  and  it  re- 
minded me  of  the  fables  respecting  the  children 
of  Magog,  who  are  said  to  reside  in  remotest 
Tartary,  behind  a gigantic  wall  of  rocks,  which 
can  only  be  passed  by  a gate  of  steel  a thousand 
cubits  in  height. 

We  shortly  after  arrived  at  Manzanal,  a village 
consisting  of  wretched  huts,  and  exhibiting  every 
sign  of  poverty  and  misery.  It  was  now  time  to 
refresh  ourselves  and  horses,  and  we  accordingly 


Ch.  VI.] 


THE  VENTA. 


103 


put  up  at  a venta,  the  last  habitation  in  the 
village,  where,  though  we  found  barley  for  the 
animals,  we  had  much  difficulty  in  procuring  any 
thing  for  ourselves.  I was  at  length  fortunate 
enough  to  obtain  a large  jug  of  milk,  for  there 
were  plenty  of  cows  in  the  neighbourhood,  feeding 
in  a picturesque  valley  which  we  had  passed  by, 
where  was  abundance  of  grass,  and  trees,  and  a 
rivulet  broken  by  tiny  cascades.  The  jug  might 
contain  about  half  a gallon,  but  I emptied  it  in 
a few  minutes,  for  the  thirst  of  fever  was  still 
burning  within  me,  though  I was  destitute  of 
appetite.  The  venta  had  something  the  appear- 
ance of  a German  baiting-house.  It  consisted 
of  an  immense  stable,  from  which  was  partitioned 
a kind  of  kitchen  and  a place  where  the  family 
slept.  The  master,  a robust  young  man,  lolled 
on  a large  solid  stone  bench,  which  stood  within 
the  door.  He  was  very  inquisitive  respecting 
news,  but  I could  afford  him  none ; whereupon 
he  became  communicative,  and  gave  me  the 
history  of  his  life,  the  sum  of  which  was,  that  he 
had  been  a courier  in  the  Basque  provinces, 
but  about  a year  since  had  been  despatched  to 


104 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VI. 


this  village,  where  he  kept  the  post-house.  He 
was  an  enthusiastic  liberal,  and  spoke  in  bitter 
terms  of  the  surrounding  population,  who,  he 
said,  were  all  Carlists  and  friends  of  the  friars. 

I paid  little  attention  to  his  discourse,  for  I was 
looking  at  a Maragato  lad  of  about  fourteen, 
who  served  in  the  house  as  a kind  of  ostler. 
I asked  the  master  if  we  were  still  in  the  land 
of  the  Maragatos;  but  he  told  me  that  we  had 
left  it  behind  nearly  a league,  and  that  the  lad 
was  an  orphan  and  was  serving  until  he  could 
rake  up  a sufficient  capital  to  become  an  arriero. 
I addressed  several  questions  to  the  boy,  but 
the  urchin  looked  sullenly  in  my  face,  and  either 
answered  by  monosyllables  or  was  doggedly 
silent.  I asked  him  if  he  could  read.  “ Yes,” 
said  he,  “ as  much  as  that  brute  of  yours  who 
is  tearing  down  the  manger.” 

Quitting  Manzanal,  we  continued  our  course. 
We  soon  arrived  at  the  verge  of  a deep  valley 
amongst  mountains,  not  those  of  the  chain  which 
we  had  seen  before  us,  and  which  we  now  left 
to  the  right,  but  those  of  the  Telleno  range, 
just  before  they  unite  with  that  chain.  Round 


Ch.  VI.] 


THE  BY-PATH. 


105 


the  sides  of  this  valley,  which  exhibited  some- 
thing of  the  appearance  of  a horse-shoe,  wound 
the  road  in  a circuitous  manner ; just  before  us, 
however,  and  diverging  from  the  road,  lay  a foot- 
path which  seemed,  by  a gradual  descent,  to  lead 
across  the  valley,  and  to  rejoin  the  road  on  the 
other  side,  at  the  distance  of  about  a furlong: 
and  into  this  we  struck  in  order  to  avoid  the 
circuit. 

We  had  not  gone  far  before  we  met  two  Ga- 
licians, on  their  way  to  cut  the  harvests  of  Cas- 
tile. One  of  them  shouted,  “ Cavalier,  turn 
back : in  a moment  you  will  be  amongst  preci- 
pices, where  your  horses  will  break  their  necks, 
for  we  ourselves  could  scarcely  climb  them  on 
foot.”  The  other  cried,  “ Cavalier,  proceed,  but 
be  careful,  and  your  horses,  if  sure-footed,  will 
run  no  great  danger:  my  comrade  is  a fool.’ 
A violent  dispute  instantly  ensued  between  the 
two  mountaineers,  each  supporting  his  opinion 
with  loud  oaths  and  curses ; but  without  stop- 
ping to  see  the  result,  I passed  on,  but  the  patli 
was  now  filled  with  stones  and  huge  slaty  rocks, 
on  which  my  horse  was  continually  slipping.  I 

f 3 


106 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VI. 


likewise  heard  the  sound  of  water  in  a deep 
gorge,  which  I had  hitherto  not  perceived,  and 
I soon  saw  that  it  would  be  worse  than  mad- 
ness to  proceed.  I turned  my  horse,  and  was 
hastening  to  regain  the  path  which  I had  left, 
when  Antonio,  my  faithful  Greek,  pointed 
out  to  me  a meadow  by  which,  he  said,  we 
might  regain  the  high  road  much  lower  down 
than  if  we  returned  on  our  steps.  The  meadow 
was  brilliant  with  short  green  grass,  and  in  the 
middle  there  was  a small  rivulet  of  water.  I 
spurred  my  horse  on,  expecting  to  be  in  the 
high  road  in  a moment ; the  horse,  however, 
snorted  and  stared  wildly,  and  was  evidently 
unwilling  to  cross  the  seemingly  inviting  spot. 
I thought  that  the  scent  of  a wolf,  or  some 
other  wild  animal  might  have  disturbed  him, 
but  was  soon  undeceived  by  his  sinking  up  to 
the  knees  in  a bog.  The  animal  uttered  a shrill 
sharp  neigh,  and  exhibited  every  sign  of  the 
greatest  terror,  making  at  the  same  time  great 
efforts  to  extricate  himself,  and  plunging  for- 
ward, but  every  moment  sinking  deeper.  At 
last  he  arrived  where  a small  vein  of  rock 


Ch.  VI.] 


NARROW  ESCAPE. 


107 


shewed  itself : on  this  he  placed  his  fore  feet, 
and  with  one  tremendous  exertion  freed  himself 
from  the  deceitful  soil,  springing  over  the  rivulet 
and  alighting  on  comparatively  firm  ground,  where 
he  stood  panting,  his  heaving  sides  covered  with 
a foamy  sweat.  Antonio,  who  had  observed  the 
whole  scene,  afraid  to  venture  forward,  returned 
by  the  path  by  which  we  came,  and  shortly  after- 
wards rejoined  me.  This  adventure  brought  to 
my  recollection  the  meadow  with  its  footpath 
which  tempted  Christian  from  the  straight  road 
to  heaven,  and  finally  conducted  him  to  the  do- 
minions of  the  giant  Despair. 

We  now  began  to  descend  the  valley  by  a 
broad  and  excellent  carretera  or  carriage  road, 
which  was  cut  out  of  the  steep  side  of  the  moun- 
tain on  our  right.  On  our  left  was  the  gorge, 
down  which  tumbled  the  runnel  of  water  which  I 
have  before  mentioned.  The  road  was  tortuous, 
and  at  every  turn  the  scene  became  more  pictur- 
esque. The  gorge  gradually  widened,  and  the  brook 
at  its  bottom,  fed  by  a multitude  of  springs,  in- 
creased in  volume  and  in  sound,  but  it  was  soon 
far  beneath  us,  pursuing  its  headlong  course  till  it 


108 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VI. 


reached  level  ground,  where  it  flowed  in  the 
midst  of  a beautiful  but  confined  prairie.  There 
was  something  sylvan  and  savage  in  the  moun- 
tains on  the  farther  side,  clad  from  foot  to  pin- 
nacle with  trees,  so  closely  growing  that  the  eye 
was  unable  to  obtain  a glimpse  of  the  hill  sides, 
which  were  uneven  with  ravines  and  gulleys,  the 
haunts  of  the  wolf,  the  wild  boar,  and  the  corso, 
or  mountain-stag ; the  latter  of  which,  as  I was 
informed  by  a peasant  who  was  driving  a car  of 
oxen,  frequently  descended  to  feed  in  the  prairie, 
and  were  there  shot  for  the  sake  of  their  skins, 
for  the  flesh,  being  strong  and  disagreeable,  is 
held  in  no  account. 

But  notwithstanding  the  wildness  of  these 
regions,  the  handiworks  of  man  were  visible. 
The  sides  of  the  gorge,  though  precipitous,  were 
yellow  with  little  fields  of  barley,  and  we  saw 
a hamlet  and  church  down  in  the  prairie  below, 
whilst  merry  songs  ascended  to  our  ears  from 
where  the  mowers  were  toiling  with  their  scythes, 
cutting  the  luxuriant  and  abundant  grass.  I 
could  scarcely  believe  that  I was  in  Spain,  in 
general  so  brown,  so  arid  and  cheerless,  and  I 


Ch.  VI.] 


THE  CUP  OF  WATER. 


109 


almost  fancied  myself  in  Greece,  in  that  land  of 
ancient  glory,  whose  mountain  and  forest  scenery 
Theocritus  has  so  well  described. 

At  the  bottom  of  the  valley  we  entered  a small 
village,  washed  by  the  brook,  which  had  now 
swelled  almost  to  a stream.  A more  romantic 
situation  I had  never  witnessed.  It  was  sur- 
rounded, and  almost  overhung,  by  mountains, 
and  embowered  in  trees  of  various  kinds ; waters 
sounded,  nightingales  sang,  and  the  cuckoo’s 
full  note  boomed  from  the  distant  branches, 
but  the  village  was  miserable.  The  huts  were 
built  of  slate  stones,  of  which  the  neighbouring 
hills  seemed  to  be  principally  composed,  and 
roofed  with  the  same,  but  not  in  the  neat  tidy 
manner  of  English  houses,  for  the  slates  were  of 
all  sizes,  and  seemed  to  be  flung  on  in  confusion. 
We  were  spent  with  heat  and  thirst,  and  sitting- 
down  on  a stone  bench,  I entreated  a woman  to 
give  me  a little  water.  The  woman  said  she 
would,  but  added  that  she  expected  to  be  paid 
for  it.  Antonio,  on  hearing  this,  became  highly 
incensed,  and  speaking  Greek,  Turkish,  and 
Spanish,  invoked  the  vengeance  of  the  Pan- 


110 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch,  VI. 


hagia  on  the  heartless  woman,  saying,  “ If  I were 
to  offer  a Mahometan  gold  for  a draught  of  water 
he  would  dash  it  in  my  face  ; and  you  are  a 
Catholic,  with  the  stream  running  at  your  door.” 
I told  him  to  be  silent,  and  giving  the  woman 
two  cuartos,  repeated  my  request,  whereupon 
she  took  a pitcher,  and  going  to  the  stream  filled 
it  with  water.  It  tasted  muddy  and  disagreeable, 
but  it  drowned  the  fever  which  was  devouring  me. 

We  again  remounted  and  proceeded  on  our 
way,  which,  for  a considerable  distance,  lay  along 
the  margin  of  the  stream,  which  now  fell  in  small 
cataracts,  now  brawled  over  stones,  and  at  other 
times  ran  dark  and  silent  through  deep  pools 
overhung  with  tall  willows, — pools  which  seemed 
to  abound  with  the  finny  tribe,  for  large  trout 
frequently  sprang  from  the  water,  catching  the 
brilliant  fly  which  skimmed  along  its  deceitful 
surface.  The  scene  was  delightful.  The  sun 
was  rolling  high  in  the  firmament,  casting  from 
its  orb  of  fire  the  most  glorious  rays,  so  that  the 
atmosphere  was  flickering  with  their  splendour, 
but  their  fierceness  was  either  warded  off  by  the 
shadow  of  the  trees  or  rendered  innocuous  by  the 


Ch.  VI.] 


SUN  AND  SHADE. 


Ill 


refreshing  coolness  which  rose  from  the  waters, 
or  by  the  gentle  breezes  which  murmured  at  in- 
tervals over  the  meadows,  “ fanning  the  cheek  or 
raising  the  hair”  of  the  wanderer.  The  hills 
gradually  receded,  till  at  last  we  entered  a plain 
where  tall  grass  was  waving,  and  mighty  chestnut 
trees,  in  full  blossom,  spread  out  their  giant  and 
umbrageous  boughs.  Beneath  many  stood  cars, 
the  tired  oxen  prostrate  on  the  ground,  the  cross- 
bar of  the  poll  which  they  support  pressing 
heavily  on  their  heads,  whilst  their  drivers  were 
either  employed  in  cooking,  or  were  enjoying  a 
delicious  siesta  in  the  grass  and  shade.  I went 
up  to  one  of  the  largest  of  these  groups  and  de- 
manded of  the  individuals  whether  they  were  in 
need  of  the  Testament  of  Jesus  Christ.  They 
stared  at  one  another,  and  then  at  me,  till  at  last 
a young  man,  who  was  dangling  a long  gun  in  his 
hands  as  he  reclined,  demanded  of  me  what  it 
was,  at  the  same  time  inquiring  whether  I was  a 
Catalan,  “ for  you  speak  hoarse,”  said  he,  “ and 
are  tall  and  fair  like  that  family.”  I sat  down 
amongst  them  and  said  that  I was  no  Catalan,  but 
that  I came  from  a spot  in  the  Western  Sea,  many 


112  THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN.  [Ch.  VI. 

leagues  distant,  to  sell  that  book  at  half  the  price 
it  cost ; and  that  their  souls’  welfare  depended 
on  their  being  acquainted  with  it.  I then  ex- 
plained to  them  the  nature  of  the  New  Testa- 
ment, and  read  to  them  the  parable  of  the  Sower. 
They  stared  at  each  other  again,  but  said  that 
they  were  poor,  and  could  not  buy  books.  I rose, 
mounted,  and  was  going-  away,  saying  to  them  : 
“ Peace  bide  with  you.”  Whereupon  the  young 
man  with  the  gun  rose,  and  saying,  “ Caspita  ! 
this  is  odd,”  snatched  the  book  from  my  hand 
and  gave  me  the  price  I had  demanded. 

Perhaps  the  whole  world  might  be  searched  in 
vain  for  a spot  whose  natural  charms  could  rival 
those  of  this  plain  or  valley  of  Bembibre,  as  it 
is  called,  with  its  wall  of  mighty  mountains,  its 
spreading  chestnut  trees,  and  its  groves  of  oaks 
and  willows,  which  clothe  the  banks  of  its  stream, 
a tributary  to  the  Minho.  True  it  is,  that  when 
I passed  through  it,  the  candle  of  heaven  was 
blazing  in  full  splendour,  and  every  thing  lighted 
by  its  rays  looked  gay,  glad,  and  blessed.  Whether 
it  would  have  filled  me  with  the  same  feelings  of 
admiration  if  viewed  beneath  another  sky,  T will 


Ch.  VI.] 


BEMBIBRE. 


113 


not  pretend  to  determine;  but  it  certainly  pos- 
sesses advantages  which  at  no  time  could  fail  to 
delight,  for  it  exhibits  all  the  peaceful  beauties  of 
an  English  landscape  blended  with  something 
wild  and  grand,  and  I thought  within  myself 
that  he  must  be  a restless  dissatisfied  man,  who, 
born  amongst  those  scenes,  would  wish  to  quit 
them.  At  the  time  I would  have  desired  no  bet- 
ter fate  than  that  of  a shepherd  on  the  prairies,  or 
a hunter  on  the  hills  of  Bembibre. 

Three  hours  passed  away,  and  we  were  in 
another  situation.  We  had  halted  and  refreshed 
ourselves  and  horses  at  Bembibre,  a village  of 
mud  and  slate,  and  which  possessed  little  to 
attract  attention : we  were  now  ascending,  for 
the  road  was  over  one  of  the  extreme  ledges  of 
those  frontier  hills  which  I have  before  so  often 
mentioned  ; but  the  aspect  of  heaven  had  black- 
ened, clouds  were  rolling  rapidly  from  the  west 
over  the  mountains,  and  a cold  wind  was  moan- 
ing dismally.  “ There  is  a storm  travelling 
through  the  air,”  said  a peasant,  whom  we  over- 
took, mounted  on  a wretched  mule;  and  the 
Asturians  had  better  be  on  the  look  out,  for  it  is 


114 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


tCh.  VI. 


speeding  in  their  direction.”  He  had  scarce 
spoken,  when  a light,  so  vivid  and  dazzling  that 
it  seemed  as  if  the  whole  lustre  of  the  fiery 
element  were  concentrated  in  it,  broke  around 
us,  filling  the  whole  atmosphere,  and  covering 
rock,  tree  and  mountain  with  a glare  not  to  be 
described.  The  mule  of  the  peasant  tumbled 
prostrate,  while  the  horse  I rode  reared  himself 
perpendicularly,  and  turning  round,  dashed  down 
the  hill  at  headlong  speed,  which  for  some  time 
it  was  impossible  to  check.  The  lightning  was 
followed  by  a peal  almost  as  terrible,  but  dis- 
tant, for  it  sounded  hollow  and  deep  ; the  hills, 
however,  caught  up  its  voice,  seemingly  repeat- 
ing it  from  summit  to  summit,  till  it  was  lost  in 
interminable  space.  Other  flashes  and  peals 
succeeded,  but  slight  in  comparison,  and  a few 
drops  of  rain  descended.  The  body  of  the 
tempest  seemed  to  be  over  another  region.  “ A 
hundred  families  are  weeping  where  that  bolt 
fell,”  said  the  peasant  when  I rejoined  him,  “ for 
its  blaze  has  blinded  my  mule  at  six  leagues’ 
distance.”  He  was  leading  the  animal  by  the 
bridle,  as  its  sight  was  evidently  affected.  “ Were 


Ch.  VI.] 


CONVENT  OF  THE  ROCKS. 


115 


the  friars  still  in  their  nest  above  there,”  he 
continued,  “ I should  say  that  this  was  their 
doing,  for  they  are  the  cause  of  all  the  miseries 
of  the  land.” 

I raised  my  eyes  in  the  direction  in  which  he 
pointed.  Half  way  up  the  mountain,  over  whose 
foot  we  were  wending,  jutted  forth  a black  fright- 
ful crag,  which  at  an  immense  altitude  overhung 
the  road,  and  seemed  to  threaten  destruction. 
It  resembled  one  of  those  ledges  of  the  rocky 
mountains  in  the  picture  of  the  Deluge,  up  to 
which  the  terrified  fugitives  have  scrambled  from 
the  eager  pursuit  of  the  savage  and  tremendous 
billows,  and  from  whence  they  gaze  down  in 
horror,  whilst  above  them  rise  still  higher  and 
giddier  heights,  to  which  they  seem  unable  to 
climb.  Built  on  the  very  edge  of  this  crag, 
stood  an  edifice,  seemingly  devoted  to  the  pur- 
poses of  religion,  as  I could  discern  the  spire  of 
a church  rearing  itself  high  over  wall  and  roof. 
“ That  is  the  house  of  the  Virgin  of  the 
Rocks,”  said  the  peasant,  “ and  it  was  lately 
full  of  friars,  but  they  have  been  thrust  out, 
and  the  only  inmates  now  are  owls  and  ravens.” 


116 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VI. 


I replied,  that  their  life  in  such  a bleak  exposed 
abode  could  not  have  been  very  enviable,  as  in 
winter  they  must  have  incurred  great  risk  of 
perishing  with  cold.  “ By  no  means,”  said  he ; 
“ they  had  the  best  of  wood  for  their  braseros 
and  chimneys,  and  the  best  of  wine  to  warm 
them  at  their  meals,  which  were  not  the  most 
sparing.  Moreover,  they  had  another  convent 
down  in  the  vale  yonder,  to  which  they  could 
retire  at  their  pleasure.”  On  my  asking  him  the 
reason  of  his  antipathy  to  the  friars,  he  replied, 
that  he  had  been  their  vassal,  and  that  they  had 
deprived  him  every  year  of  the  flower  of  what 
he  possessed.  Discoursing  in  this  manner,  we 
reached  a village  just  below  the  convent,  where 
be  left  me,  having  first  pointed  out  to  me  a 
house  of  stone,  with  an  image  over  the  door, 
which,  he  said,  once  also  belonged  to  the  canalla 
[rabble)  above. 

The  sun  was  setting  fast,  and  eager  to  reach 
Villafranca,  where  I had  determined  on  resting, 
and  which  was  still  distant  three  leagues  and  a 
half,  I made  no  halt  at  this  place.  The  road 
was  now  down  a rapid  and  crooked  descent, 


Ch.  VI.] 


SUNSET. 


117 


which  terminated  in  a valley,  at  the  bottom  of 
which  was  a long  and  narrow  bridge ; beneath 
it  rolled  a river,  descending  from  a wide  pass 
between  two  mountains,  for  the  chain  was  here 
cleft,  probably  by  some  convulsion  of  nature.  I 
looked  up  the  pass,  and  on  the  hills  on  both 
sides.  Far  above,  on  my  right,  but  standing 
forth  bold  and  clear,  and  catching  the  last  rays 
of  the  sun,  was  the  Convent  of  the  Precipices, 
whilst  directly  over  against  it,  on  the  farther  side 
of  the  valley,  rose  the  perpendicular  side  of  the 
rival  hill,  which,  to  a considerable  extent  inter- 
cepting the  light,  flung  its  black  shadow  over 
the  upper  end  of  the  pass,  involving  it  in  mys- 
terious darkness.  Emerging  from  the  centre  of 
this  gloom,  with  thundering  sound,  dashed  a 
river,  white  with  foam,  and  bearing  along  with  it 
huge  stones  and  branches  of  trees,  for  it  was  the 
wild  Sil  hurrying  to  the  ocean  from  its  cradle  in 
the  heart  of  the  Asturian  hills,  and  probably 
swollen  by  the  recent  rains. 

Hours  again  passed  away.  It  was  now  night, 
and  we  were  in  the  midst  of  woodlands,  feeling 
our  way,  for  the  darkness  was  so  great  that  I 


118 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VI. 


could  scarcely  see  the  length  of  a yard  before 
my  horse’s  head.  The  animal  seemed  uneasy, 
and  would  frequently  stop  short,  prick  up  his 
ears,  and  utter  a low  mournful  whine.  Flashes 
of  sheet  lightning  frequently  illumined  the  black 
sky,  and  flung  a momentary  glare  over  our  path. 
No  sound  interrupted  the  stillness  of  the  night, 
except  the  slow  tramp  of  the  horse’s  hoofs,  and 
occasionally  the  croaking  of  frogs  from  some 
pool  or  morass.  I now  bethought  me  that  I was 
in  Spain,  the  chosen  land  of  the  two  fiends, 
assassination  and  plunder,  and  how  easily  two 
tired  and  unarmed  wanderers  might  become  their 
victims. 

We  at  last  cleared  the  woodlands,  and  after 
proceeding  a short  distance,  the  horse  gave  a 
joyous  neigh,  and  broke  into  a smart  trot.  A 
barking  of' dogs  speedily  reached  my  ears,  and 
we  seemed  to  be  approaching  some  town  or 
village.  In  effect  we  were  close  to  Cacabe- 
los,  a town  about  five  miles  distant  from  Villa- 
franc  a. 

It  was  near  eleven  at  night,  and  I reflected 
that  it  would  be  far  more  expedient  to  tarry  in 


Ch.  VI.] 


CACABELOS. 


119 


this  place  till  the  morning  than  to  attempt  at 
present  to  reach  Villafranca,  exposing  ourselves 
to  all  the  horrors  of  darkness  in  a lonely  and 
unknown  road.  My  mind  was  soon  made  up  on 
this  point ; but  I reckoned  without  my  host,  for 
at  the  first  posada  which  I attempted  to  enter, 
I was  told  that  we  could  not  be  accommodated, 
and  still  less  our  horses,  as  the  stable  was  full  of 
water.  At  the  second,  and  there  were  but  two, 
1 was  answered  from  the  window  by  a gruff  voice, 
nearly  in  the  words  of  Scripture  : “ Trouble  me 
not:  the  door  is  now  shut,  and  my  children  are 
with  me  in  bed;  I cannot  arise  to  let  you  in.” 
Indeed,  we  had  no  particular  desire  to  enter,  as 
it  appeared  a wretched  hovel,  though  the  poor 
horses  pawed  piteously  against  the  door,  and 
seemed  to  crave  admittance. 

We  had  now  no  choice  but  to  resume  our 
doleful  way  to  Villafranca,  which,  we  were  told, 
was  a short  league  distant,  though  it  proved  a 
league  and  a half.  We  found  it  no  easy  matter 
to  quit  the  town,  for  we  were  bewildered  amongst 
its  labyrinths,  and  could  not  find  the  outlet.  A 
lad  about  eighteen  was,  however,  persuaded,  by 


120 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VI. 


the  promise  of  a peseta,  to  guide  us  : whereupon 
he  led  us  by  many  turnings  to  a bridge,  which 
he  told  us  to  cross,  and  to  follow  the  road,  which 
was  that  of  Villafranca ; he  then,  having  received 
his  fee,  hastened  from  us. 

We  followed  his  directions,  not,  however,  with- 
out a suspicion  that  he  might  be  deceiving  us. 
The  night  had  settled  darker  down  upon  us,  so 
that  it  was  impossible  to  distinguish  any  object, 
however  nigh.  The  lightning  had  become  more 
faint  and  rare.  We  heard  the  rustling  of  trees, 
and  occasionally  the  barking  of  dogs,  which  last 
sound,  however,  soon  ceased,  and  we  were  in  the 
midst  of  night  and  silence.  My  horse,  either 
from  weariness,  or  the  badness  of  the  road,  fre- 
quently stumbled  ; whereupon  I dismounted,  and 
leading  him  by  the  bridle,  soon  left  Antonio  far 
in  the  rear. 

I had  proceeded  in  this  manner  a considerable 
way,  when  a circumstance  occurred  of  a character 
well  suited  to  the  time  and  place. 

I was  again  amidst  trees  and  bushes,  when  the 
horse  stopping  short,  nearly  pulled  me  back.  I 
know  not  how  it  was,  but  fear  suddenly  came 


CL  VI.  ] 


MIDNIGHT  ADVENTURE. 


121 


over  me,  which,  though  in  darkness  and  in  soli- 
tude, I had  not  felt  before.  I was  about  to  urge 
the  animal  forward,  when  I heard  a noise  at  my 
right  hand,  and  listened  attentively.  It  seemed 
to  be  that  of  a person  or  persons  forcing  their 
way  through  branches  and  brushwood.  It  soon 
ceased,  and  I heard  feet  on  the  road.  It  was 
the  short  staggering  kind  of  tread  of  people  car- 
rying a very  heavy  substance,  nearly  too  much  for 
their  strength,  and  I thought  I heard  the  hurried 
breathing  of  men  over-fatigued.  There  was  a 
short  pause,  during  which  I conceived  they  were 
resting  in  the  middle  of  the  road ; then  the 
stamping  recommenced,  until  it  reached  the  other 
side,  when  I again  heard  a similar  rustling  amidst 
branches ; it  continued  for  some  time  and  died 
gradually  awayr. 

I continued  my  road,  musing  on  what  had  just 
occurred,  and  forming  conjectures  as  to  the  cause. 
The  lightning  resumed  its  flashing,  and  I saw 
that  I was  approaching  tall  black  mountains. 

This  nocturnal  journey  endured  so  long  that  I 
almost  lost  all  hope  of  reaching  the  town,  and 
had  closed  my  eyes  in  a dose,  though  I still 


VOL.  II. 


a 


122 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


{Ch.  VI. 


trudged  on  mechanically,  leading  the  horse.  Sud- 
denly a voice  at  a slight  distance  before  me  roared 
out,  “ Quien  vive  ?”  for  I had  at  last  found  my 
way  to  Villafranca.  It  proceeded  from  the  sentry 
in  the  suburb,  one  of  those  singular  half  soldiers 
half  guerillas,  called  Miguelets,  who  are  in  ge- 
neral employed  by  the  Spanish  government  to 
clear  the  roads  of  robbers.  I gave  the  usual 
answer,  “ Espaha ,”  and  went  up  to  the  place 
where  he  stood.  After  a little  conversation,  I sat 
down  on  a stone,  awaiting  the  arrival  of  Antonio, 
who  was  long  in  making  his  appearance.  On 
his  arrival,  I asked  if  any  one  had  passed  him  on 
the  road,  but  he  replied  that  he  had  seen  no^ 
thing.  The  night,  or  rather  the  morning,  was 
still  very  dark,  though  a small  corner  of  the 
moon  was  occasionally  visible.  On  our  in- 
quiring the  way  to  the  gate,  the  Miguelet  di- 
rected us  down  a street  to  the  left,  which  we 
followed.  The  street  was  steep,  we  could  see  no 
gate,  and  our  progress  was  soon  stopped  by 
houses  and  wall.  We  knocked  at  the  gates  of 
two  or  three  of  these  houses,  (in  the  upper  stories 
of  which  lights  were  burning,)  for  the  purpose  of 


Ch.  VI.] 


VILLAFRANCA. 


1*23 


being  set  right,  but  we  were  either  disregarded  or 
not  heard.  A horrid  squalling  of  cats,  from  the 
tops  of  the  houses  and  dark  corners,  saluted  our 
ears,  and  I thought  of  the  night  arrival  of  Don 
Quixote  and  his  squire  at  Toboso,  and  their  vain 
search  amongst  the  deserted  streets  for  the  pa- 
lace of  Dulcinea.  At  length  we  saw  light  and 
heard  voices  in  a cottage  at  the  other  side  of  a 
kind  of  ditch.  Leading  the  horses  over,  we  called 
at  the  door,  which  was  opened  by  an  aged  man, 
who  appeared  by  his  dress  to  be  a baker,  as 
indeed  he  proved,  which  accounted  for  his  being 
up  at  so  late  an  hour.  On  begging  him  to  show 
us  the  way  into  the  town,  he  led  us  up  a very 
narrow  alley  at  the  end  of  his  cottage,  saying 
that  he  would  likewise  conduct  us  to  the  posada. 

The  alley  led  directly  to  what  appeared  to  be 
the  market-place,  at  a corner  house  of  which  our 
guide  stopped  and  knocked.  After  a long  pause 
an  upper  window  was  opened,  and  a female  voice 
demanded  who  we  were.  The  old  man  replied, 
that  two  travellers  had  arrived  who  were  in  need 
of  lodging.  “ I cannot  be  disturbed  at  this 
time  of  night,”  said  the  woman ; “ they  will  be 

G 2 


i 24 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VI. 


wanting  supper,  and  there  is  nothing  in  the  house ; 
they  must  go  elsewhere.”  She  was  going  to  shut 
the  window,  but  I cried  that  we  wanted  no  supper, 
but  merely  a resting  place  for  ourselves  and 
horses — that  we  had  come  that  day  from  Astorga, 
and  were  dying  with  fatigue.  “ Who  is  that 
speaking  ?”  cried  the  woman.  “ Surely  that  is 
the  voice  of  Gil,  the  German  clock-maker  from 
Pontevedra.  Welcome,  old  companion;  you  are 
come  at  the  right  time,  for  my  own  is  out  of 
order.  I am  sorry  I have  kept  you  waiting,  but 
I will  admit  you  in  a moment.” 

The  window  was  slammed  to,  presently  a light 
shone  through  the  crevices  of  the  door,  a key 
turned  in  the  lock,  and  we  were  admitted. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


VILLAFRANCA.  — THE  PASS.  — GALLEGAN  SIMPLICITY.  — THE 
FRONTIER  GUARD.— THE  HORSE-SHOE. —GALLEGAN  PECULIARI- 
TIES. — A WORD  ON  LANGUAGE.  — THE  COURIER.  — WRETCHED 
CABINS HOST  AND  GUESTS. — ANDALUSIANS. 

“ Ave  Maria,”  said  the  woman ; “ whom  have 
we  here  ? This  is  not  Gil  the  clock-maker.” 
“ Whether  it  be  Gil  or  Juan,”  said  I,  “ we  are 
in  need  of  your  hospitality,  and  can  pay  for  it.” 
Our  first  care  was  to  stable  the  horses,  who  were 
much  exhausted.  We  then  went  in  search  of 
some  accommodation  for  ourselves.  The  house 
was  large  and  commodious,  and  having  tasted  a 
little  water,  I stretched  myself  on  the  floor  of  one 
of  the  rooms  on  some  mattresses  which  the 
woman  produced,  and  in  less  than  a minute 
was  sound  asleep. 

The  sun  was  shining  bright  when  I awoke. 
I walked  forth  into  the  market-place,  which  was 
crowded  with  people.  I looked  up,  and  could 
see  the  peaks  of  tall  black  mountains  peeping 


126 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VII. 


over  the  tops  of  the  houses.  The  town  lay  in  a 
deep  hollow,  and  appeared  to  be  surrounded  by 
hills  on  almost  every  side.  “ Quel  pays  barbare  /” 
said  Antonio,  who  now  joined  me  ; “ the  farther 
we  go,  my  master,  the  wilder  every  thing  looks. 
I am  half  afraid  to  venture  into  Galicia ; they 
tell  me  that  to  get  to  it  we  must  clamber  up 
those  hills  : the  horses  will  founder.”  Leaving 
the  market-place  I ascended  the  wall  of  the  town, 
and  endeavoured  to  discover  the  gate  by  which 
we  should  have  entered  the  preceding  night ; but 
I was  not  more  successful  in  the  bright  sunshine 
than  in  the  darkness.  The  town  in  the  direction 
of  Astorga  appeared  to  be  hermetically  sealed. 

I was  eager  to  enter  Galicia,  and  finding  that 
the  horses  were  to  a certain  extent  recovered 
from  the  fatigue  of  the  journey  of  the  preceding- 
day,  we  again  mounted  and  proceeded  on  our 
way.  Crossing  a bridge,  we  presently  found  our- 
selves in  a deep  gorge  amongst  the  mountains, 
down  which  rushed  an  impetuous  rivulet,  over- 
hung by  the  high  road  which  leads  into  Galicia. 
We  were  in  the  far-famed  pass  of  Fuencebadon. 

It  is  impossible  to  describe  this  pass  or  the 


Ch.  VII.] 


THE  PASS. 


127 


circumjacent  region,  which  contains  some  of  the 
most  extraordinary  scenery  in  all  Spain ; a feeble 
and  imperfect  outline  is  all  that  I can  hope  to 
effect.  The  traveller  who  ascends  it  follows  for 
nearly  a league  the  course  of  the  torrent,  whose 
banks  are  in  some  places  precipitous,  and  in 
others  slope  down  to  the  waters,  and  are  covered 
with  lofty  trees,  oaks,  poplars,  and  chestnuts. 
Small  villages  are  at  first  continually  seen,  with 
low  walls,  and  roofs  formed  of  immense  slates, 
the  eaves  nearly  touching  the  ground ; these 
hamlets,  however,  gradually  become  less  fre- 
quent as  the  path  grows  more  steep  and  narrow, 
until  they  finally  cease  at  a short  distance  be- 
fore the  spot  is  attained  where  the  rivulet  is 
abandoned,  and  is  no  more  seen,  though  its 
tributaries  may  yet  be  heard  in  many  a gully, 
or  descried  in  tiny  rills  dashing  down  the  steeps. 
Every  thing  here  is  wild,  strange,  and  beautiful  : 
the  hill  up  which  winds  the  path  towers  above 
on  the  right,  whilst  on  the  farther  side  of  a 
profound  ravine  rises  an  immense  mountain,  to 
whose  extreme  altitudes  the  eye  is  scarcely  able 
to  attain  ; but  the  most  singular  feature  of  this 


128 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[€h.  VIL 


pass  are  the  hanging  fields  or  meadows  which 
cover  its  sides.  In  these,  as  I passed,  the  grass 
was  growing  luxuriantly,  and  in  many  the  mowers 
were  plying  their  scythes,  though  it  seemed 
scarcely  possible  that  their  feet  could  find  sup- 
port on  ground  so  precipitous : above  and  below 
were  driftways,  so  small  as  to  seem  threads  along 
the  mountain  side.  A car,  drawn  by  oxen,  is 
creeping  round  yon  airy  eminence ; the  nearer 
wheel  is  actually  hanging  over  the  horrid  descent; 
giddiness  seizes  the  brain,  and  the  eye  is  rapidly 
withdrawn.  A cloud  intervenes,  and  when  again 
you  turn  to  watch  their  progress,  the  objects  of 
your  anxiety  have  disappeared.  Still  more  nar- 
row becomes  the  path  along  which  you  yourself 
are  toiling,  and  its  turns  more  frequent.  Yon 
have  already  come  a distance  of  two  leagues, 
and  still  one-third  of  the  ascent  remains  unsur- 
mounted. You  are  not  yet  in  Galicia;  and  you 
still  hear  Castilian,  coarse  and  unpolished,  it  is 
true,  spoken  in  the  miserable  cabins  placed  in 
the  sequestered  nooks  which  you  pass  by  in  your 
route. 

Shortly  before  we  reached  the  summit  of  the 


Ch.  VII.] 


GALLEGAN  SIMPLICITY. 


129 


pass  thick  mists  began  to  envelope  the  tops  of  the 
hills,  and  a drizzling  rain  descended.  “ These 
mists,”  said  Antonio,  “ are  what  the  Gallegans 
call  bretima ; and  it  is  said  there  is  never  any 
lack  of  them  in  their  country.”  “ Have  you 
ever  visited  the  country  before  ?”  I demanded. 
“ Non,  mon  maitre;  but  I have  frequently  lived 
in  houses  where  the  domestics  were  in  part  Gal- 
legans, on  which  account  I know  not  a little  of 
their  ways,  and  even  something  of  their  language.” 
“ Is  the  opinion  which  you  have  formed  of  them 
at  all  in  their  favour  ? ” I inquired.  “ By  no 
means,  mon  maitre ; the  men  in  general  seem 
clownish  and  simple,  yet  they  are  capable  ot 
deceiving  the  most  clever  filou  of  Paris ; and 
as  for  the  women,  it  is  impossible  to  live  in  the 
same  house  with  them,  more  especially  if  they  are 
Camareras,  and  wait  upon  the  Sehora ; they  are 
continually  breeding  dissensions  and  disputes  in 
the  house,  and  telling  tales  of  the  other  domestics. 
I have  already  lost  two  or  three  excellent  situations 
in  Madrid,  solely  owing  to  these  Gallegan  cham- 
bermaids. We  have  now  come  to  the  frontier, 


130 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  Vli. 


rnon  maitre,  for  such  I conceive  this  village  to 
be.” 

We  entered  the  village,  which  stood  on  the 
summit  of  the  mountain,  and  as  our  horses  and 
ourselves  were  by  this  time  much  fatigued,  we 
looked  round  for  a place  in  which  to  obtain  re- 
freshment. Close  by  the  gate  stood  a building 
which,  from  the  circumstance  of  a mule  or  two 
and  a wretched  pony  standing  before  it,  we  con- 
cluded was  the  posada,  as  in  effect  it  proved  to 
be.  We  entered:  several  soldiers  were  lolling  on 
heaps  of  coarse  hay,  with  which  the  place,  which 
much  resembled  a stable,  was  half  filled.  All 
were  exceedingly  ill  looking  fellows,  and  very 
dirty.  They  were- conversing  with  each  other  in 
a strange  sounding  dialect,  which  I supposed  to 
be  Gallegan.  Scarcely  did  they  perceive  us 
when  two  or  three  of  them,  starting  from  their 
couch,  ran  up  to  Antonio,  whom  they  welcomed 
with  much  affection,  calling  him  companheiro. 
u How  came  you  to  know  these  men?”  I 
demanded  in  French.  “ Ces  messieurs  sont 
presque  tons  de  ma  connoissance ,”  he  replied,  “ et , 


Ch.  VII.] 


THE  FRONTIER  GUARD. 


131 


entre  nous , ce  sont  des  veritables  vauriens ; they 
are  almost  all  robbers  and  assassins.  That  fel- 
low with  one  eye,  who  is  the  corporal,  escaped  a 
little  time  ago  from  Madrid,  more  than  suspected 
of  being  concerned  in  an  affair  of  poisoning ; 
but  he  is  safe  enough  here  in  his  own  country, 
and  is  placed  to  guard  the  frontier,  as  you  see : 
but  we  must  treat  them  civilly,  mon  maitre ; we 
must  give  them  wine,  or  they  will  be  offended. 
I know  them,  mon  maitre — I know  them.  Here, 
hostess,  bring  an  azumbre  of  wine.” 

Whilst  Antonio  was  engaged  in  treating  his 
friends,  I led  the  horses  to  the  stable  ; this  was 
through  the  house,  inn,  or  whatever  it  might  be 
called.  The  stable  was  a wretched  shed,  in  which 
the  horses  sank  to  their  fetlocks  in  mud  and 
puddle.  On  inquiring  for  barley,  I was  told 
that  I was  now  in  Galicia,  where  barley  was  not 
used  for  provender,  and  was  very  rare.  I was 
offered  in  lieu  of  it  Indian  corn,  which,  how- 
ever, the  horses  ate  without  hesitation.  There 
was  no  straw  to  be  had ; coarse  hay,  half  green, 
being  the  substitute.  By  trampling  about  in  the 
mud  of  the  stable  my  horse  soon  lost  a shoe,  for 


132 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VII. 


which  I searched  in  vain.  “ Is  there  a black- 
smith in  the  village  ?”  I demanded  of  a shock- 
headed fellow  who  officiated  as  ostler. 

Ostler . — Si,  Senhor ; but  1 suppose  you  have 
brought  horse-shoes  with  you,  or  that  large  beast 
of  yours  cannot  be  shod  in  this  village. 

Myself. — What  do  you  mean  ? Is  the  black- 
smith unequal  to  his  trade  ? Cannot  he  put  on  a 
horse-shoe  ? 

Ostler  — Si,  Senhor ; he  can  put  on  a horse- 
shoe if  you  give  it  him ; but  there  are  no  horse- 
shoes in  Galicia,  at  least  in  these  parts. 

Myself — Is  it  not  customary  then  to  shoe  the 
horses  in  Galicia  ? 

Ostler. — Senhor,  there  are  no  horses  in  Galicia, 
there  are  only  ponies ; and  those  who  bring  horses 
to  Galicia,  and  none  but  madmen  ever  do,  must 
bring  shoes  to  fit  them  ; only  shoes  of  ponies  are 
to  be  found  here. 

Myself — What  do  you  mean  by  saying  that 
only  madmen  bring  horses  to  Galicia  ? 

Ostler. — Senhor,  no  horse  can  stand  the  food 
of  Galicia  and  the  mountains  of  Galicia  long, 
without  falling  sick ; and  then  if  he  does  not  die 


C h.  VII.] 


THE  HORSE-SHOE. 


133 


at  once,  lie  will  cost  you  in  farriers  more  than  he 
is  worth ; besides,  a horse  is  of  no  use  here,  and 
cannot  perforin  amongst  the  broken  ground  the 
tenth  part  of  the  service  which  a little  pony 
mare  can.  By  the  by,  Senhor,  I perceive  that 
yours  is  an  entire  horse ; now  out  of  twenty 
ponies  that  you  see  on  the  roads  of  Galicia,  nine- 
teen are  mares ; the  males  are  sent  down  into 
Castile  to  be  sold.  Senhor,  your  horse  will  be- 
come heated  on  our  roads,  and  will  catch  the 
bad  glanders,  for  which  there  is  no  remedy. 
Senhor,  a man  must  be  mad  to  bring  any  horse 
to  Galicia,  but  twice  mad  to  bring  an  entero,  as  v 
you  have  done.” 

“ A strange  country  this  of  Galicia,”  said  I, 
and  went  to  consult  with  Antonio. 

It  appeared  that  the  information  of  the  ostler 
was  literally  true  with  regard  to  the  horse-shoe ; 
at  least  the  blacksmith  of  the  village,  to  whom  we 
conducted  the  animal,  confessed  his  inability  to 
shoe  him,  having  none  that  would  fit  his  hoof: 
he  said  it  was  very  probable  that  we  should  be 
obliged  to  lead  the  animal  to  Lugo,  which,  being 
a cavalry  station,  we  might  perhaps  find  there 


134 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Cli.  VII. 


what  we  wanted.  He  added,  however,  that  the 
greatest  part  of  the  cavalry  soldiers  were  mounted 
on  the  ponies  of  the  country,  the  mortality 
amongst  the  horses  brought  from  the  level  ground 
into  Galicia  being  frightful.  Lugo  was  ten  leagues 
distant : there  seemed,  however,  to  be  no  remedy 
at  hand  but  patience,  and,  having  refreshed  our- 
selves, we  proceeded,  leading  our  horses  by  the 
bridle. 

We  were  now  on  level  ground,  being  upon  the 
very  top  of  one  of  the  highest  mountains  in  Ga- 
licia. This  level  continued  for  about  a league, 
when  we  began  to  descend.  Before  we  had 
crossed  the  plain,  which  was  overgrown  with 
furze  and  brushwood,  we  came  suddenly  upon 
half  a dozen  fellows  armed  with  muskets  and 
wearing  a tattered  uniform.  We  at  first  supposed 
them  to  be  banditti : they  were,  however,  only  a 
party  of  soldiers  who  had  been  detached  from 
the  station  we  had  just  quitted  to  escort  one  of 
the  provincial  posts  or  couriers.  They  were 
clamorous  for  cigars,  but  offered  us  no  farther 
incivility.  Having  no  cigars  to  bestow,  I gave 
them  in  lieu  thereof  a small  piece  of  silver.  Two 


Ch.  VII.]  GALLEGAN  PECULIARITIES. 


135 


of  the  worst  looking  were  very  eager  to  be  per- 
mitted to  escort  us  to  Nogales,  the  village  where 
we  proposed  to  spend  the  night.  “ By  no  means 
permit  them,  mon  maitre,”  said  Antonio,  “ they 
are  two  famous  assassins  of  my  acquaintance  ; I 
have  known  them  at  Madrid  : in  the  first  ravine 
they  will  shoot  and  plunder  us.”  I therefore 
civilly  declined  their  offer  and  departed.  “ You 
seem  to  be  acquainted  with  all  the  cut-throats  in 
Galicia,”  said  I to  Antonio,  as  we  descended  the 
hill. 

“ With  respect  to  those  two  fellows,”  he  replied, 
“ I knew  them  when  I lived  as  cook  in  the  family  of 

General  Q — , who  is  a Gailegan  : they  were 

sworn  friends  of  the  repostero.  All  the  Gallegans 
in  Madrid  know  each  other,  whether  high  or  low 
makes  no  difference ; there,  at  least,  they  are  all 
good  friends,  and  assist  each  other  on  all  ima- 
ginable occasions ; and  if  there  be  a Gailegan 
domestic  in  a house,  the  kitchen  is  sure  to  be 
filled  with  his  countrymen,  as  the  cook  frequently 
knows  to  his  cost,  for  they  generally  contrive  to 
eat  up  any  little  perquisites  which  he  may  have 
reserved  for  himself  and  family.” 


136 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VII. 


Somewhat  less  than  half  way  down  the  moun- 
tain we  reached  a small  village.  On  observing  a 
blacksmith’s  shop,  we  stopped,  in  the  faint  hope 
of  finding  a shoe  for  the  horse,  who,  for  want  of 
one,  was  rapidly  becoming  lame.  To  our  great 
joy  we  found  that  the  smith  was  in  possession  of 
one  single  horse-shoe,  which  some  time  pre- 
viously he  had  found  upon  the  way.  This,  after 
undergoing  much  hammering  and  alteration,  was 
pronounced  by  the  Gallegan  vulcan  to  be  ca- 
pable of  serving  in  lieu  of  a better ; whereupon 
we  again  mounted,  and  slowly  continued  our  de- 
scent. 

Shortly  ere  sunset  we  arrived  at  Nogales,  a 
hamlet  situate  in  a narrow  valley  at  the  foot  of 
the  mountain,  in  traversing  which  we  had  spent 
the  day.  Nothing  could  be  more  picturesque 
than  the  appearance  of  this  spot : steep  hills, 
thickly  clad  with  groves  and  forests  of  chestnuts, 
surrounded  it  on  every  side  ; the  village  itself 
was  almost  embowered  in  trees,  and  close  be- 
side it  ran  a purling  brook.  Here  we  found  a 
tolerably  large  and  commodious  posada. 

I was  languid  and  fatigued,  but  felt  little  de- 


Ch.  VII.]  A WORD  ON  LANGUAGE. 


137 


sire  to  sleep.  Antonio  cooked  our  supper,  or 
rather  his  own,  for  I had  no  appetite.  I sat  by 
the  door,  gazing  at  the  wood-covered  heights 
above  me,  or  on  the  waters  of  the  rivulet,  occa- 
sionally listening  to  the  people  who  lounged 
about  the  house,  conversing  in  the  country  dia- 
lect. What  a strange  tongue  is  the  Gallegan, 
with  its  half  singing  half  whining  accent,  and 
with  its  confused  jumble  of  words  from  many 
languages,  but  chiefly  from  the  Spanish  and 
Portuguese.  “ Can  you  understand  this  con- 
versation ? ” I demanded  of  Antonio,  who  had  by 
this  time  rejoined  me.  “ I cannot,  mon  maitre,” 
he  replied;  “ I have  acquired  at  various  times 
a great  many  words  amongst  the  Gallegan  do- 
mestics in  the  kitchens  where  I have  officiated 
as  cook,  but  am  quite  unable  to  understand  any 
long  conversation.  I have  heard  the  Gallegans 
say  that  in  no  two  villages  is  it  spoken  in  one 
and  the  same  manner,  and  that  very  frequently 
they  do  not  understand  each  other.  The  worst 
of  this  language  is,  that  every  body  on  first  hear- 
ing it  thinks  that  nothing  is  more  easy  than  to 
understand  it,  as  words  are  continually  occurring 


138 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VII. 


which  he  has  heard  before : but  these  merely 
serve  to  bewilder  and  puzzle  him,  causing  him  to 
misunderstand  every  thing  that  is  said ; whereas, 
if  he  were  totally  ignorant  of  the  tongue,  he 
would  occasionally  give  a shrewd  guess  at  what 
was  meant,  as  I myself  frequently  do  when  I 
hear  Basque  spoken,  though  the  only  word  which 
I know  of  that  language  is  jaunguicoa” 

As  the  night  closed  in  I retired  to  bed,  where 
I remained  four  or  five  hours,  restless  and  tossing 
about;  the  fever  of  Leon  still  clinging  to  my 
system.  It  was  considerably  past  midnight  when, 
just  as  I was  sinking  into  a slumber,  I was  aroused 
by  a confused  noise  in  the  village,  and  the  glare 
of  lights  through  the  lattice  of  the  window  of  the 
room  where  I lay ; presently  entered  Antonio, 
half  dressed.  “ Mon  maitre,”  said  he,  “ the  grand 
post  from  Madrid  to  Coruna  has  just  arrived  in 
the  village,  attended  by  a considerable  escort,  and 
an  immense  number  of  travellers.  The  road  they 
say,  between  here  and  Lugo,  is  infested  with  rob- 
bers and  Carlists,  who  are  committing  all  kinds  of 
atrocities ; let  us,  therefore,  avail  ourselves  of  the 
opportunity,  and  by  midday  to-morrow  we  shall 


Ch.  VII.] 


THE  COURIER. 


139 


find  ourselves  safe  in  Lugo.”  On  hearing  these 
words,  I instantly  sprang  out  of  bed  and  dressed 
myself,  telling  Antonio  to  prepare  the  horses  with 
all  speed. 

We  were  soon  mounted  and  in  the  street, 
amidst  a confused  throng  of  men  and  quadrupeds. 
The  light  of  a couple  of  flambeaus,  which  were 
borne  before  the  courier,  shone  on  the  arms  of 
several  soldiers,  seemingly  drawn  up  on  either 
side  of  the  road ; the  darkness,  however,  pre- 
vented me  from  distinguishing  objects  very  clear- 
ly. The  courier  himself  was  mounted  on  a little 
shaggy  pony  ; before  and  behind  him  were  two 
immense  portmanteaus,  or  leather  sacks,  the  ends 
of  which  nearly  touched  the  ground.  For  about 
a quarter  of  an  hour  there  was  much  hubbub, 
shouting,  and  trampling,  at  the  end  of  which  pe- 
riod, the  order  was  given  to  proceed.  Scarcely 
had  we  left  the  village,  when  the  flambeaus  were 
extinguished,  and  we  were  left  in  almost  total 
darkness ; for  some  time  we  were  amongst  woods 
and  trees,  as  was  evident  from  the  rustling  of 
leaves  on  every  side.  My  horse  was  very  uneasy 
and  neighed  fearfully,  occasionally  raising  himself 


140 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Gh.  VIL 


bolt  upright.  “ If  your  horse  is  not  more  quiet, 
cavalier,  we  shall  be  obliged  to  shoot  him,’1  said  a 
voice  in  an  Andalusian  accent ; “ he  disturbs  the 
whole  cavalcade.”  “ That  would  be  a pity,  ser- 
geant,” I replied,  “ for  he  is  a Cordovese  by  the 
four  sides ; he  is  not  used  to  the  ways  of  this  bar- 
barous country.”  “ Oh,  he  is  a Cordovese,”  said 
the  voice,  “ vaya,  I did  not  know  that ; I am  from 
Cordova  myself.  Pobrecito ! let  me  pat  him — yes, 
I know  by  his  coat  that  he  is  my  countryman — 
shoot  him,  indeed ! vaya,  I would  fain  see  the 
Gallegan  devil  who  would  dare  to  harm  him. 
Barbarous  country,  io  lo  creo : neither  oil  nor 
olives,  bread  nor  barley.  You  have  been  at  Cor- 
dova. Vaya;  oblige  me,  cavalier,  by  taking  this 
cigar.” 

In  this  manner  we  proceeded  for  several  hours, 
up  hill  and  down  dale,  but  generally  at  a very 
slow  pace.  The  soldiers  who  escorted  us  from 
time  to  time  sang  patriotic  songs,  breathing  love 
and  attachment  to  the  young  Queen  Isabel,  and 
detestation  of  the  grim  tyrant  Carlos.  One  of  the 
stanzas  which  reached  my  ears,  ran  something  in 
the  following  style  : — 


Ch.  VII.] 


WRETCHED  CABINS. 


141 


“ Don  Carlos  is  a hoary  churl, 
Of  cruel  heart  and  cold  ; 
But  Isabel ’s  a harmless  girl, 
Of  only  six  years  old.  ” 


At  last  the  day  began  to  break,  and  I found 
myself  amidst  a train  of  two  or  three  hundred 
people,  some  on  foot,  but  the  greater  part 
mounted,  either  on  mules  or  the  pony  mares : 1 
could  not  distinguish  a single  horse  except  my 
own  and  Antonio’s.  A few  soldiers  were  thinly 
scattered  along  the  road.  The  country  was  hilly, 
but  less  mountainous  and  picturesque  than  the 
one  which  we  had  traversed  the  preceding  day ; 
it  was  for  the  most  part  partitioned  into  small 
fields,  which  were  planted  with  maize.  At  the 
distance  of  every  two  or  three  leagues  we 
changed  our  escort,  at  some  village  where  was 
stationed  a detachment.  The  villages  were  mostly 
an  assemblage  of  wretched  cabins;  the  roofs  were 
thatched,  dank,  and  moist,  and  not  unfrequently 
covered  with  rank  vegetation.  There  were  dung- 
hills before  the  doors,  and  no  lack  of  pools  and 
puddles.  Immense  swine  were  stalking  about, 
intermingled  with  naked  children.  The  interior 


142 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VII. 


of  the  cabins  corresponded  with  their  external 
appearance : they  were  filled  with  filth  and 
misery. 

We  reached  Lugo  about  two  hours  past  noon  : 
during  the  last  two  or  three  leagues,  I became 
so  overpowered  with  weariness,  the  result  of 
want  of  sleep  and  my  late  illness,  that  I was 
continually  dozing  in  my  saddle,  so  that  I took 
but  little  notice  of  what  w^as  passing.  We  put  up 
at  a large  posada  without  the  wall  of  the  town, 
built  upon  a steep  bank,  and  commanding  an  ex- 
tensive view  of  the  country  towards  the  east. 
Shortly  after  our  arrival,  the  rain  began  to  de- 
scend in  torrents,  and  continued  without  intermis- 
sion during  the  next  two  days,  which  was,  how- 
ever, to  me  but  a slight  source  of  regret,  as  I 
passed  the  entire  time  in  bed,  and  I may  almost 
say  in  slumber.  On  the  evening  of  the  third  day 
I arose. 

There  was  much  bustle  in  the  house,  caused  by 
the  arrival  of  a family  from  Coruna ; they  came 
in  a large  jaunting  car,  escorted  by  four  cara- 
bineers. The  family  was  rather  numerous,  con- 
sisting of  a father,  son,  and  eleven  daughters,  the 


Ch.  VII;] 


HOST  AND  GUESTS. 


143 


eldest  of  whom  might  be  about  eighteen.  A 
shabby  looking  fellow,  dressed  in  a jerkin  and 
wearing  a high-crowned  hat,  attended  as  domes- 
tic. They  arrived  very  wet  and  shivering,  and  all 
seemed  very  disconsolate,  especially  the  father, 
who  was  a well-looking  middle-aged  man.  “ Can 
we  be  accommodated  ?”  he  demanded  in  a gentle 
voice  of  the  man  of  the  house  ; “ can  we  be  ac- 
commodated in  this  fonda  ? ” 

“ Certainly,  your  worship,”  replied  the  other; 
“ our  house  is  large.  How  many  apartments 
does  your  worship  require  for  your  family  ? ” 

“ One  will  be  sufficient,”  replied  the  stranger. 
The  host,  who  was  a gouty  personage  and  leaned 
upon  a stick,  looked  for  a moment  at  the  traveller, 
then  at  every  member  of  his  family,  not  forgetting 
the  domestic,  and,  without  any  farther  comment 
than  a slight  shrug,  led  the  way  to  the  door  of 
an  apartment  containing  two  or  three  flock  beds, 
and  which  on  my  arrival  I had  objected  to 
as  being  small,  dark,  and  incommodious ; this 
he  flung  open,  and  demanded  whether  it  would 


serve. 


144 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VII. 


“ It  is  rather  small,”  replied  the  gentleman  ; “ I 
think,  however,  that  it  will  do.” 

“ I am  glad  of  it,”  replied  the  host.  “ Shall  we 
make  any  preparations  for  the  supper  of  your 
worship  and  family  ? ” 

66  No,  I thank  you,”  replied  the  stranger,  “ my 
own  domestic  will  prepare  the  slight  refreshment 
we  are  in  need  of.” 

The  key  was  delivered  to  the  domestic,  and  the 
whole  family  ensconced  themselves  in  their  apart- 
ment : before,  however,  this  was  effected,  the  es- 
cort were  dismissed,  the  principal  carabineer 
being  presented  with  a peseta.  The  man  stood 
surveying  the  gratuity  for  about  half  a minute, 
as  it  glittered  in  the  palm  of  his  hand ; then 
with  an  abrupt  Vamos ! he  turned  upon  his 
heel,  and  without  a word  of  salutation  to  any 
person,  departed  with  the  men  under  his  com- 
mand. 

“ Who  can  these  strangers  be  ?”  said  I to  the 
host,  as  we  sat  together  in  a large  corridor  open 
on  one  side,  and  which  occupied  the  entire  front 
of  the  house. 


Ch.  VII.] 


ANDALUSIANS. 


145 


“ I know  not/’  he  replied,  “ but  by  their  escort 
I suppose  they  are  people  holding  some  official 
situation.  They  are  not  of  this  province,  how- 
ever, and  I more  than  suspect  them  to  be  Anda- 
lusians.” 

In  a few  minutes  the  door  of  the  apartment  oc- 
cupied by  the  strangers  was  opened,  and  the 
domestic  appeared,  bearing  a cruise  in  his  hand. 
“ Pray,  Sehor  Patron,”  demanded  he,  “ where  can 
I buy  some  oil  ?” 

“ There  is  oil  in  the  house,”  replied  the  host, 
“ if  you  want  to  purchase  any ; but  if,  as  is  pro- 
bable, you  suppose  that  we  shall  gain  a cuarto  by 
selling  it,  you  will  find  some  over  the  way.  It 
is  as  I suspected,”  continued  the  host,  when  the 
man  had  departed  on  his  errand,  “ they  are  An- 
dalusians, and  are  about  to  make  what  they  call 
gaspacho,  on  which  they  will  all  sup.  Oh,  the 
meanness  of  these  Andalusians  ! they  are  come 
here  to  suck  the  vitals  of  Galicia,  and  yet  envy 
the  poor  innkeeper  the  gain  of  a cuarto  in  the  oil 
which  they  require  for  their  gaspacho.  I tell  you 
one  thing,  master,  when  that  fellow  returns,  and 
demands  bread  and  garlic  to  mix  with  the  oil,  I 


VOL.  II. 


H 


146 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VII. 


will  tell  him  there  is  none  in  the  house : as  he 
has  bought  the  oil  abroad,  so  he  may  the  bread 
and  garlic  ; ay,  and  the  water  too,  for  that  mat- 
ter,” 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


LUGO THE  BATHS.— A FAMILY  HISTORY.— M1GUELETS THE 

THREE  HEADS.  — A FARRIER. — ENGLISH  SQUADRON SALE  OF 

TESTAMENTS. — CORUNA.— THE  RECOGNITION.  — LUIGI  PIOZZI. — 
THE  SPECULATION.  — A BLANK  PROSPECT. —JOHN  MOORE. 

At  Lugo  I found  a wealthy  bookseller,  to  whom  I 
brought  a letter  of  recommendation  from  Madrid. 
He  willingly  undertook  the  sale  of  my  books.  The 
Lord  deigned  to  favour  my  feeble  exertions  in  his 
cause  at  Lugo.  I brought  thither  thirty  Testa- 
ments, all  of  which  were  disposed  of  in  one  day  ; 
the  bishop  of  the  place,  for  Lugo  is  an  episcopal 
see,  purchasing  two  copies  for  himself,  whilst 
several  priests  and  ex-friars,  instead  of  following 
the  example  of  their  brethren  at  Leon,  by  perse- 
cuting the  work,  spoke  well  of  it  and  recommended 
its  perusal.  I was  much  grieved  that  my  stock  of 
these  holy  books  was  exhausted,  there  being  a 
great  demand ; and  had  I been  able  to  supply 
them,  quadruple  the  quantity  might  have  been 
sold  during  the  few  days  that  I continued  at  Lugo. 

H 2 


148 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VIII. 


Lugo  contains  about  six  thousand  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  on  lofty  ground,  and  is  defended  by 
ancient  walls.  It  possesses  no  very  remarkable 
edifice,  and  the  cathedral  church  itself  is  a small 
mean  building.  In  the  centre  of  the  town  is  the 
principal  square,  a light  cheerful  place,  not  sur- 
rounded by  those  heavy  cumbrous  buildings  with 
which  the  Spaniards  both  in  ancient  and  modern 
times  have  encircled  their  plazas.  It  is  singular 
enough  that  Lugo,  at  present  a place  of  very  little 
importance,  should  at  one  period  have  been  the 
capital  of  Spain : yet  such  it  was  in  the  time  of 
the  Romans,  who,  as  they  were  a people  not  much 
guided  by  caprice,  had  doubtless  very  excellent 
reasons  for  the  preference  which  they  gave  to  the 
locality. 

There  are  many  Roman  remains  in  the  vicinity 
of  this  place,  the  most  remarkable  of  which  are  the 
ruins  of  the  ancient  medicinal  baths,  which  stand 
on  the  southern  side  of  the  river  Minho,  which 
creeps  through  the  valley  beneath  the  town. 
The  Minho  in  this  place  is  a dark  and  sullen 
stream,  with  high,  precipitous,  and  thickly  wooded 
banks. 


Ch.  VIII.] 


THE  BATHS. 


149 


One  evening  I visited  the  baths,  accompanied 
by  my  friend  the  bookseller.  They  had  been 
built  over  warm  springs  which  flow  into  the  river. 
Notwithstanding  their  ruinous  condition,  they 
were  crowded  with  sick,  hoping  to  derive  benefit 
from  the  waters,  which  are  still  famed  for  their 
sanative  power.  These  patients  exhibited  a 
strange  spectacle  as,  wrapped  in  flannel  gowns 
much  resembling  shrouds,  they  lay  immersed  in 
the  tepid  waters  amongst  disjointed  stones,  and 
overhung  with  steam  and  reek. 

Three  or  four  days  after  my  arrival  I was  seated 
in  the  corridor  which,  as  I have  already  observed, 
occupied  the  entire  front  of  the  house.  The  sky 
was  unclouded,  and  the  sun  shone  most  glorious- 
ly, enlivening  every  object  around.  Presently  the 
door  of  the  apartment  in  which  the  strangers  were 
lodged  opened,  and  forth  walked  the  whole  family, 
with  the  exception  of  the  father,  who,  I presumed, 
was  absent  on  business.  The  shabby  domestic 
brought  up  the  rear,  and  on  leaving  the  apart- 
ment, carefully  locked  the  door,  and  secured  the 
key  in  his  pocket.  The  one  son  and  the  eleven 
daughters  were  all  dressed  remarkably  well : the 


150 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VIII. 


boy  something  after  the  English  fashion,  in  jacket 
and  trousers,  the  young  ladies  in  spotless  white : 
they  were,  upon  the  whole,  a very  good  looking 
family,  with  dark  eyes  and  olive  complexions, 
but  the  eldest  daughter  was  remarkably  hand- 
some. They  arranged  themselves  upon  the 
benches  of  the  corridor,  the  shabby  domestic 
sitting  down  amongst  them  without  any  ceremony 
whatever.  They  continued  for  some  time  in  si- 
lence, gazing  with  disconsolate  looks  upon  the 
houses  of  the  suburb  and  the  dark  walls  of  the 
town,  until  the  eldest  daughter,  or  sehorita  as  she 
was  called,  broke  silence  with  an  “ Ay  Dios  mio  /” 

Domestic —Ay  Dios  mio!  we  have  found  our 
way  to  a pretty  country. 

Myself  \ — I really  can  see  nothing  so  very  bad 
in  the  country,  which  is  by  nature  the  richest  in 
all  Spain,  and  the  most  abundant.  True  it  is  that 
the  generality  of  the  inhabitants  are  wretchedly 
poor,  but  they  themselves  are  to  blame,  and  not 
the  country. 

Domestic  — Cavalier,  the  country  is  a horrible 
one,  say  nothing  to  the  contrary.  We  are  all 
frightened,  the  young  ladies,  the  young  gentle* 


A FAMILY  HISTORY. 


151 


Ch.  VIIL] 

man,  and  myself ; even  his  worship  is  frightened, 
and  says  that  we  are  come  to  this  country  for  our 
sins.  It  rains  every  day,  and  this  is  almost  the 
first  time  that  we  have  seen  the  sun  since  our 
arrival.  It  rains  continually,  and  one  cannot 
step  out  without  being  up  to  the  ancles  in  fan  go  ; 
and  then,  again,  there  is  not  a house  to  be 
found. 

Myself, — I scarcely  understand  you.  There 
appears  to  be  no  lack  of  houses  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood. 

Domestic, — Excuse  me,  sir.  His  worship  hired 
yesterday  a house,  for  which  he  engaged  to  pay 
fourteen  pence  daily ; but  when  the  senorita  saw 
it,  she  wept,  and  said  it  was  no  house,  but  a hog- 
sty,  so  his  worship  paid  one  day’s  rent  and  re- 
nounced his  bargain.  Fourteen  pence  a day  ! 
why,  in  our  country,  we  can  have  a palace  for 
that  money. 

Myself, — From  what  country  do  you  come  ? 

Domestic, — Cavalier,  you  appear  to  be  a decent 
gentleman,  and  I will  tell  you  our  history.  We 
are  from  Andalusia,  and  his  worship  was  last  year 
receiver-general  for  Granada:  his  salary  was  four- 


152 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VIII. 


teen  thousand  rials,  with  which  we  contrived  to 
live  very  commodiously — attending  the  bull  fun- 
cions  regularly,  or  if  there  were  no  bulls,  we  went 
to  see  the  novillos,  and  nowand  then  to  the  opera. 
In  a word,  sir,  we  had  our  diversions  and  felt  at 
our  ease ; so  much  so,  that  his  worship  was  actually 
thinking  of  purchasing  a pony  for  the  young  gen- 
tleman, who  is  fourteen,  and  must  learn  to  ride 
now  or  never.  Cavalier,  the  ministry  was  changed, 
and  the  new  comers,  who  were  no  friends  to  his 
worship,  deprived  him  of  his  situation.  Cavalier, 
they  removed  us  from  that  blessed  country  of 
Granada,  where  our  salary  was  fourteen  thousand 
rials,  and  sent  us  to  Galicia,  to  this  fatal  town  of 
Lugo,  where  his  worship  is  compelled  to  serve  for 
ten  thousand,  which  is  quite  insufficient  to  main- 
tain us  in  our  former  comforts.  Good  bye,  I trow, 
to  bull  funcions,  and  novillos,  and  the  opera. 
Good  bye  to  the  hope  of  a horse  for  the  young 
gentleman.  Cavalier,  I grow  desperate:  hold  your 
tongue,  for  God’s  sake  ! for  I can  talk  no  more. 

On  hearing  this  history  I no  longer  wondered 
that  the  receiver-general  was  eager  to  save  a 
cuarto  in  the  purchase  of  the  oil  for  the  gaspacho 


Ch.  VIII.] 


MIGUELETS. 


153 


of  himself  and  family  of  eleven  daughters,  one 
son,  and  a domestic. 

We  staid  one  week  at  Lugo,  and  then  di- 
rected our  steps  to  Coruna,  about  twelve  leagues 
distant.  We  arose  before  daybreak  in  order  to 
avail  ourselves  of  the  escort  of  the  general  post, 
in  whose  company  we  travelled  upwards  of  six 
leagues.  There  was  much  talk  of  robbers,  and 
flying  parties  of  the  factious,  on  which  account 
our  escort  was  considerable.  At  the  distance  of 
five  or  six  leagues  from  Lugo,  our  guard,  in  lieu 
of  regular  soldiers,  consisted  of  a body  of  about 
fifty  Miguelets.  They  had  all  the  appearance  of 
banditti,  but  a finer  body  of  ferocious  fellows  1 
never  saw.  They  were  all  men  in  the  prime  of 
life,  mostly  of  tall  stature,  and  of  Herculean 
brawn  and  limbs.  They  wore  huge  whiskers, 
and  walked  with  a fanfaronading  air,  as  if  they 
courted  danger,  and  despised  it.  In  every  respect 
they  stood  in  contrast  to  the  soldiers  who  had 
hitherto  escorted  us,  who  were  mere  feeble  boys 
from  sixteen  to  eighteen  years  of  age,  and  pos- 
sessed of  neither  energy  nor  activity.  The 
proper  dress  of  the  Miguelet,  if  it  resembles  any 

n 3 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


154 


[Ch.  VIII. 


tiling  military,  is  something  akin  to  that  an- 
ciently used  by  the  English  marines.  They  wear 
a peculiar  kind  of  hat,  and  generally  leggings, 
or  gaiters,  and  their  arms  are  the  gun  and 
bayonet.  The  colour  of  their  dress  is  mostly 
dark  brown.  They  observe  little  or  no  discipline, 
whether  on  a march  or  in  the  field  of  action. 
They  are  excellent  irregular  troops,  and  when  on 
actual  service,  are  particularly  useful  as  skir- 
mishers. Their  proper  duty,  however,  is  to 
officiate  as  a species  of  police,  and  to  clear  the 
roads  of  robbers,  for  which  duty  they  are  in  one 
respect  admirably  calculated,  having  been  gene- 
rally robbers  themselves  at  one  period  of  their 
lives.  Why  these  people  are  called  Miguelets 
it  is  not  easy  to  say,  but  it  is  probable  that  they 
have  derived  this  appellation  from  the  name  of 
their  original  leader.  I regret  that  the  paucity  of 
my  own  information  will  not  allow  me  to  enter 
into  farther  particulars  with  respect  to  this  corps, 
concerning  which  I have  little  doubt  that  many 
remarkable  things  might  be  said. 

Becoming  weary  of  the  slow  travelling  of  the 
post,  I determined  to  brave  all  risk,  and  to  push 


Ch.  VIII.] 


THE  THREE  HEADS. 


155 


forward.  In  this,  however,  I was  guilty  of  no 
slight  imprudence,  as  by  so  doing  I was  near 
falling  into  the  hands  of  robbers.  „ Two  fellows 
suddenly  confronted  me  with  presented  carbines, 
which  they  probably  intended  to  discharge  into 
my  body,  but  they  took  fright  at  the  noise  of 
Antonio’s  horse,  who  was  following  a little  way 
behind.  This  affair  occurred  at  the  bridge  of  Cas- 
tellanos, a spot  notorious  for  robbery  and  murder, 
and  well  adapted  for  both,  for  it  stands,  at  the 
bottom  of  a deep  dell  surrounded  by  wild  desolate 
hills.  Only  a quarter  of  an  hour  previous,  I had 
passed  three  ghastly  heads  stuck  on  poles  standing 
by  the  way-side ; they  were  those  of  a captain 
of  banditti  and  two  of  his  accomplices,  who  had 
been  seized  and  executed  about  two  months 
before.  Their  principal  haunt  was  the  vicinity 
of  the  bridge,  and  it  was  their  practice  to  cast 
the  bodies  of  the  murdered  into  the  deep  black 
water  which  runs  rapidly  beneath.  Those  three 
heads  will  always  live  in  my  remembrance,  par- 
ticularly that  of  the  captain,  which  stood  on  a 
higher  pole  than  the  other  two : the  long  hair 
was  waving  in  the  wind,  and  the  blackened, 


156 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VIII. 


distorted  features  were  grinning  in  the  sun. 
The  fellows  whom  I met  were  the  relics  of  the 
band. 

We  arrived  at  Betanzos  late  in  the  afternoon. 
This  town  stands  on  a creek  at  some  distance 
from  the  sea,  and  about  three  leagues  from  Co- 
runa. It  is  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  lofty 
hills.  The  weather  during  the  greater  part  of 
the  day  had  been  dull  and  lowering,  and  we  found 
the  atmosphere  of  Betanzos  insupportably  close 
and  heavy.  Sour  and  disagreeable  odours  as- 
sailed our  olfactory  organs  from  all  sides.  The 
streets  were  filthy — so  were  the  houses,  and 
especially  the  posada.  We  entered  the  stable ; 
it  was  strewed  with  rotten  sea-weeds  and  other 
rubbish,  in  which  pigs  were  wallowing ; huge  and 
loathsome  flies  were  buzzing  around.  “ What 
a pest-house  ! ” I exclaimed.  But  we  could  [find 
no  other  stable,  and  were  therefore  obliged  to 
tether  the  unhappy  animals  to  the  filthy  man- 
gers. The  only  provender  that  could  be  ob- 
tained was  Indian  corn.  At  nightfall  I led  them 
to  drink  at  a small  river  which  passes  through 
Betanzos.  My  entero  swallowed  the  water  gree- 


Ch.  VIII.] 


A FARRIER, 


157 


dily ; but  as  we  returned  towards  the  inn,  I 
observed  that  he  was  sad,  and  that  his  head 
drooped.  He  had  scarcely  reached  the  stall, 
when  a deep  hoarse  cough  assailed  him.  I re- 
membered the  words  of  the  ostler  in  the  moun- 
tains, “ The  man  must  be  mad  who  brings  a 
horse  to  Galicia,  and  doubly  so  he  who  brings 
an  entero.”  During  the  greater  part  of  the  day 
the  animal  had  been  much  heated,  walking 
amidst  a throng  of  at  least  a hundred  pony 
mares.  He  now  began  to  shiver  violently.  I 
procured  a quart  of  anise  brandy,  with  which, 
assisted  by  Antonio,  I rubbed  his  body  for  nearly 
an  hour,  till  his  coat  was  covered  with  a white 
foam ; but  his  cough  increased  perceptibly,  his 
eyes  were  becoming  fixed,  and  his  members  rigid. 
“ There  is  no  remedy  but  bleeding,”  said  I. 
“ Run  for  a farrier.”  The  farrier  came.  “ You 
must  bleed  the  horse,”  I shouted ; cc  take  from 
him  an  azumbre  of  blood.”  The  farrier  looked 
at  the  animal,  and  made  for  the  door.  u Where 
are  you  going?”  I demanded.  “ Home,”  he 
replied.  “ But  we  want  you  here.”  “ I know 
you  do,”  was  his  answer ; “ and  on  that  account 


158 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VIII. 


I am  going.”  “ But  you  must  bleed  the  horse, 
or  he  will  die.”  “ I know  he  will,”  said  the 
farrier,  “ but  I will  not  bleed  him.”  “ Why  ?”  I 
demanded.  “ I will  not  bleed  him,  but  under 
one  condition.”  “ What  is  that  ?”  “ What  is  it ! 
— that  you  pay  me  an  ounce  of  gold.”  “ Run  up 
stairs  for  the  red  morocco  case,”  said  I to  An- 
tonio. The  case  was  brought ; I took  out  a large 
fleam,  and  with  the  assistance  of  a stone,  drove 
it  into  the  principal  artery  of  the  horse’s  leg. 
The  blood  at  first  refused  to  flow,  at  last,  with 
much  rubbing,  it  began  to  trickle,  and  then  to 
stream ; it  continued  so  for  half  an  hour.  “ The 
horse  is  fainting,  mon  maitre,”  said  Antonio. 
“ Hold  him  up,”  said  I,  “ and  in  another  ten 
minutes  we  will  stop  the  vein.” 

I closed  the  vein,  and  whilst  doing  so  I looked 
up  into  the  farrier’s  face,  arching  my  eyebrows. 

“Carracho!”  what  an  evil  wizard,”  muttered 
the  farrier,  as  he  walked  away.  “ If  I had  my 
knife  here  I would  stick  him.”  We  bled  the  horse 
again  during  the  night,  which  second  bleeding  I 
believe  saved  him.  Towards  morning  he  began 
to  eat  his  food. 


Ch.  VIII.] 


ENGLISH  SQUADRON. 


159 


The  next  day  we  departed  for  Coruna,  leading 
our  horses  by  the  bridle : the  day  was  magni- 
ficent, and  our  walk  delightful.  We  passed  along- 
beneath  tall  umbrageous  trees,  which  skirted  the 
road  from  Betanzos  to  within  a short  distance 
of  Coruna.  Nothing  could  be  more  smiling 
and  cheerful  than  the  appearance  of  the  country 
around.  Vines  were  growing  in  abundance  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  villages  through  which  we 
passed,  whilst  millions  of  maize  plants  upreared 
their  tall  stalks  and  displayed  their  broad  green 
leaves  in  the  fields.  After  walking  about  three 
hours,  we  obtained  a view  of  the  bay  of  Coruna, 
in  which,  even  at  the  distance  of  a league,  we 
could  distinguish  three  or  four  immense  ships 
riding  at  anchor.  “ Can  these  vessels  belong  to 
Spain  ?”  I demanded  of  myself.  In  the  very 
next  village,  however,  we  were  informed,  that  the 
preceding  evening  an  English  squadron  had  ar- 
rived, for  what  reason  nobody  could  say.  “ How- 
ever,” continued  our  informant,  “ they  have 
doubtless  some  design  upon  Galicia.  These  fo- 
reigners are  the  ruin  of  Spain.” 

We  put  up  in  what  is  called  the  Calle  Real, 


160 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VIII. 


in  an  excellent  fonda,  or  posada,  kept  by  a short, 
thick,  comical  looking  person,  a Genoese  by 
birth.  He  was  married  to  a tall,  ugly,  but  good 
tempered  Basque  woman,  by  whom  he  had  been 
blessed  with  a son  and  daughter.  His  wife, 
however,  had  it  seems  of  late  summoned  all  her 
female  relations  from  Guipuscoa,  who  now  filled 
the  house  to  the  number  of  nine,  officiating  as 
chambermaids,  cooks,  and  scullions : they  were 
all  very  ugly,  but  good  natured,  and  of  immense 
volubility  of  tongue.  Throughout  the  whole  day 
the  house  resounded  with  their  excellent  Basque 
and  very  bad  Castilian.  The  Genoese,  on  the 
contrary,  spoke  little,  for  which  he  might  have 
assigned  a good  reason  ; he  had  lived  thirty  years 
in  Spain,  and  had  forgotten  his  own  language 
without  acquiring  Spanish,  which  he  spoke  very 
imperfectly. 

We  found  Coruna  full  of  bustle  and  life, 
owing  to  the  arrival  of  the  English  squadron. 
On  the  following  day,  however,  it  departed,  being 
bound  for  the  Mediterranean  on  a short  cruize, 
whereupon  matters  instantly  returned  to  their 
usual  course. 


Ch.  VIII.] 


SALE  OF  TESTAMENTS. 


161 


I had  a depot  of  five  hundred  Testaments  at 
Coruna,  from  which  it  was  my  intention  to 
supply  the  principal  towns  of  Galicia.  Imme- 
diately on  my  arrival  I published  advertisements, 
according  to  my  usual  practice,  and  the  book 
obtained  a tolerable  sale — seven  or  eight  copies 
per  day  on  the  average.  Some  people,  perhaps, 
on  perusing  these  details,  will  be  tempted  to  ex- 
claim, “ These  are  small  matters,  and  scarcely 
worthy  of  being  mentioned.”  But  let  such  be- 
. think  them,  that  till  within  a few  months  previous 
to  the  time  of  which  I am  speaking,  the  very 
existence  of  the  gospel  was  almost  unknown  in 
Spain,  and  that  it  must  necessarily  be  a difficult 
task  to  induce  a people  like  the  Spaniards,  who 
read  very  little,  to  purchase  a work  like  the  New 
Testament,  which,  though  of  paramount  import- 
ance to  the  soul,  affords  but  slight  prospect  of 
amusement  to  the  frivolous  and  carnally  minded. 
I hoped  that  the  present  was  the  dawning  of  better 
and  more  enlightened  times,  and  rejoiced  in  the 
idea  that  Testaments,  though  but  few  in  number, 
were  being  sold  in  unfortunate  benighted  Spain, 


162 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VIII. 


from  Madrid  to  the  furthermost  parts  of  Galicia,  a 
distance  of  nearly  four  hundred  miles. 

Coruna  stands  on  a peninsula,  having  on  one 
side  the  sea,  and  on  the  other  the  celebrated  bay, 
generally  called  the  Groyne.  It  is  divided  into 
the  old  and  new  town,  the  latter  of  which  was  at 
one  time  probably  a mere  suburb.  The  old  town 
is  a desolate  ruinous  place,  separated  from  the 
new  by  a wide  moat.  The  modern  town  is  a 
much  more  agreeable  spot,  and  contains  one 
magnificent  street,  the  Calle  Real,  where  the 
principal  merchants  reside.  One  singular  feature 
of  this  street  is,  that  it  is  laid  entirely  with  flags 
of  marble,  along  which  troop  ponies  and  cars  as 
if  it  were  a common  pavement. 

It  is  a saying  amongst  the  inhabitants  of  Co- 
runa, that  in  their  town  there  is  a street  so  clean, 
that  puchera  may  be  eaten  off  it  without  the 
slightest  inconvenience.  This  may  certainly  be 
the  fact  after  one  of  those  rains  which  so  fre- 
quently drench  Galicia,  when  the  appearance  of 
the  pavement  of  the  street  is  particularly  bril- 
liant. Coruna  was  at  one  time  a place  of  con- 


Ch.  VIII.]  CORUNA. THE  RECOGNITION. 


163 


siderable  commerce,  the  greater  part  of  which 
has  latterly  departed  to  Santander,  a town  which 
stands  a considerable  distance  down  the  Bay  of 
Biscay. 

“ Are  you  going  to  Saint  James,  Giorgio  ? I1‘ 

so,  you  will  perhaps  convey  a message  to  my 
poor  countryman,”  said  a voice  to  me  one  morn- 
ing in  broken  English,  as  I was  standing  at  the 
door  of  my  posada,  in  the  royal  street  of  Co- 
runa. 

I looked  round  and  perceived  a man  standing 
near  me  at  the  door  of  a shop  contiguous  to  the 
inn.  He  appeared  to  be  about  sixty-five,  with 
a pale  face  and  remarkably  red  nose.  He  was 
dressed  in  a loose  green  great  coat,  in  his  mouth 
was  a long  clay  pipe,  in  his  hand  a long  painted 
stick. 

“ Who  are  you,  and  who  is  your  countryman  ?” 
I demanded ; “ I do  not  know  you.” 

“ I know  you,  however,”  replied  the  man ; “ you 
purchased  the  first  knife  that  I ever  sold  in  the 
market  place  of  N ******.’’ 

Myself. — Ah,  T remember  you  now,  Luigi  Pi- 


164 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[€h.  VIII. 


ozzi ; and  well  do  I remember  also,  how,  when 
a boy,  twenty  years  ago,  I used  to  repair  to 
your  stall,  and  listen  to  you  and  your  country- 
men discoursing  in  Milanese. 

Luigi.  — Ah,  those  were  happy  times  to  me. 
Oh,  how  they  rushed  back  on  my  remembrance 
when  I saw  you  ride  up  to  the  door  of  the  po- 
sada.  I instantly  went  in,  closed  my  shop,  lay 
down  upon  my  bed  and  wept. 

Myself. — I see  no  reason  why  you  should  so 
much  regret  those  times.  I knew  you  formerly 
in  England  as  an  itinerant  pedlar,  and  occa- 
sionally as  master  of  a stall  in  the  market-place 
of  a country  town.  I now  find  you  in  a sea-port 
of  Spain,  the  proprietor,  seemingly,  of  a con- 
siderable shop.  I cannot  see  why  you  should 
regret  the  difference. 

Luigi  (dashing  his  pipe  on  the  ground). — - 
Regret  the  difference ! Do  you  know  one  thing  ? 
England  is  the  heaven  of  the  Piedmontese  and 
Milanese,  and  especially  those  of  Como.  We  never 
lie  down  to  rest  but  we  dream  of  it,  whether  we  are 
in  our  own  country  or  in  a foreign  land,  as  I am 


Ch.  VIII.] 


LUIGI  PIOZZI. 


165 


now.  Regret  the  difference,  Giorgio  ! Do  I hear 
such  words  from  your  lips,  and  you  an  Englishman  ? 
I would  rather  be  the  poorest  tramper  on  the  roads 
of  England,  than  lord  of  all  within  ten  leagues  of 
the  shore  of  the  lake  of  Como,  and  much  the 
same  say  all  my  countrymen  who  have  visited 
England,  wherever  they  now  be.  Regret  the 
difference ! I have  ten  letters,  from  as  many 
countrymen  in  America,  who  say  they  are  rich 
and  thriving,  and  principal  men  and  merchants ; 
but  every  night,  when  their  heads  are  reposing 
on  their  pillows,  their  souls  auslandra , hurry- 
ing away  to  England,  and  its  green  lanes  and 
farm-yards.  And  there  they  are  with  their  boxes 
on  the  ground,  displaying  their  looking-glasses 
and  other  goods  to  the  honest  rustics  and  their 
dames  and  their  daughters,  and  selling  away  and 
chaffering  and  laughing  just  as  of  old.  And 
there  they  are  again  at  nightfall  in  the  hedge 
alehouses,  eating  their  toasted  cheese  and  their 
bread,  and  drinking  the  Suffolk  ale,  and  listening 
to  the  roaring  song  and  merry  jests  of  the  la- 
bourers. Now,  if  they  regret  England  so  who 


166 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VIIL 


are  in  America,  which  they  own  to  be  a happy 
country,  and  good  for  those  of  Piedmont  and  of 
Como,  how  much  more  must  I regret  it,  when, 
after  the  lapse  of  so  many  years,  I find  myself 
in  Spain,  in  this  frightful  town  of  Coruna, 
driving  a ruinous  trade,  and  where  months  pass 
by  without  my  seeing  a single  English  face,  or 
hearing  a word  of  the  blessed  English  tongue. 

Myself. — With  such  a predilection  for  England, 
what  could  have  induced  you  to  leave  it  and  come 
to  Spain  ? 

Luigi—  I will  tell  you:  about  sixteen  years 
ago  a universal  desire  seized  our  people  in 
England  to  become  something  more  than  they 
had  hitherto  been,  pedlars  and  trampers ; they 
wished  moreover,  for  mankind  are  never  satisfied, 
to  see  other  countries : so  the  greater  part  for- 
sook England.  Where  formerly  there  had  been 
ten,  at  present  scarcely  lingers  one.  Almost  all 
went  to  America,  which,  as  I told  you  before,  is  a 
happy  country,  and  specially  good  for  us  men  of 
Como.  Well,  all  my  comrades  and  relations  passed 
over  the  sea  to  the  West.  I,  too,  was  bent  on 


Ch.  VIII.] 


THE  SPECULATION. 


167 


travelling ; but  whither  ? Instead  of  going  towards 
the  West  with  the  rest,  to  a country  where  they 
have  all  thriven,  I must  needs  come  by  myself 
to  this  land  of  Spain : a country  in  which  no 
foreigner  settles  without  dying  of  a broken  heart 
sooner  or  later.  I had  an  idea  in  my  head  that  I 
could  make  a fortune  at  once,  by  bringing  a cargo 
of  common  English  goods,  like  those  which  I 
had  been  in  the  habit  of  selling  amongst  the  vil- 
lagers of  England.  So  I freighted  half  a ship 
with  such  goods,  for  I had  been  successful  in 
England  in  my  little  speculations,  and  I arrived 
at  Coruna.  Here  at  once  my  vexations  began  : 
disappointment  followed  disappointment.  It  was 
with  the  utmost  difficulty  that  I could  obtain  per- 
mission to  land  my  goods,  and  this  only  at  a con- 
siderable sacrifice  in  bribes  and  the  like;  and 
when  I had  established  myself  here,  I found  that 
the  place  was  one  of  no  trade,  and  that  my  goods 
went  off  very  slowly,  and  scarcely  at  prime  cost. 
I wished  to  remove  to  another  place,  but  was  in- 
formed, that,  in  that  case,  I must  leave  my  goods 
behind,  unless  I offered  fresh  bribes,  which  would 


168 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VIII. 


have  ruined  me ; and  in  this  way  I have  gone  on 
for  fourteen  years,  selling  scarcely  enough  to  pay 
for  my  shop  and  to  support  myself.  And  so  I 
shall  doubtless  continue  till  I die,  or  my  goods 
are  exhausted.  In  an  evil  day  I left  England  and 
came  to  Spain. 

Myself  \ — Did  you  not  say  that  you  had  a coun- 
tryman at  St.  James  ? 

Luigi . — Yes,  a poor  honest  fellow,  who,  like 
myself,  by  some  strange  chance  found  his  way 
to  Galicia.  I sometimes  contrive  to  send  him  a 
few  goods,  which  he  sells  at  St.  James  at  a greater 
profit  than  I can  here.  He  is  a happy  fellow, 
for  he  has  never  been  in  England,  and  knows  not 
the  difference  between  the  two  countries.  Oh, 
the  green  English  hedgerows  ! and  the  alehouses ! 
and,  what  is  much  more,  the  fair  dealing  and  se- 
curity. I have  travelled  all  over  England  and 
never  met  with  ill  usage,  except  once  down  in  the 
north  amongst  the  Papists,  upon  my  telling  them 
to  leave  all  their  mummeries  and  go  to  the  parish 
church  as  I did,  and  as  all  my  countrymen  in 
England  did ; for  know  one  thing,  Signor  Giorgio, 


Ch.  VIII.] 


A BLANK  PROSPECT. 


1(39 


not  one  of  us  who  have  lived  in  England,  whether 
Piedmontese  or  men  of  Como,  but  wished  well  to 
the  Protestant  religion,  if  he  had  not  actually  be- 
come a member  of  it. 

Myself— What  do  you  propose  to  do  at  pre- 
sent, Luigi  ? What  are  your  prospects  ? 

Luigi. — My  prospects  are  a blank,  Giorgio ; 
my  prospects  are  a blank.  I propose  nothing 
but  to  die  in  Coruna,  perhaps  in  the  hospital? 
if  they  will  admit  me.  Years  ago  I thought  of 
fleeing,  even  if  I left  all  behind  me,  and  either 
returning  to  England,  or  betaking  myself  to 
America;  but  it  is  too  late  now,  Giorgio,  it  is 
too  late.  When  I first  lost  all  hope,  I took  to 
drinking,  to  which  I was  never  before  inclined, 
and  I am  now  what  I suppose  you  see. 

“ There  is  hope  in  the  Gospel,”  said  I,  “ even 
for  you.  I will  send  you  one.” 

There  is  a small  battery  of  the  old  town  which 
fronts  the  east,  and  whose  wall  is  washed  by  the 
waters  of  the  bay.  It  is  a sweet  spot,  and  the 
prospect  which  opens  from  it  is  extensive.  The 
battery  itself  may  be  about  eighty  yards  square ; 


VOL.  II. 


i 


170 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VIII 


some  young  trees  are  springing  up  about  it,  and 
it  is  rather  a favourite  resort  of  the  people  of 
Coruna. 

Tn  the  centre  of  this  battery  stands  the  tomb  of 
Moore,  built  by  the  chivalrous  French,  in  com- 
memoration of  the  fall  of  their  heroic  antagonist. 
It  is  oblong  and  surmounted  by  a slab,  and  on 
either  side  bears  one  of  the  simple  and  sublime 
epitaphs  for  which  our  rivals  are  celebrated,  and 
which  stand  in  such  powerful  contrast  with  the 
bloated  and  bombastic  inscriptions  which  deform 
the  walls  of  Westminster  Abbey: 

“JOHN  MOORE, 

LEADER  OF  THE  ENGLISH  ARMIES, 

SLAIN  IN  BATTLE, 

1809.” 

The  tomb  itself  is  of  marble,  and  around  it  is  a 
quadrangular  wall,  breast  high,  of  rough  Gallegan 
granite ; close  to  each  corner  rises  from  the  earth 
the  breach  of  an  immense  brass  cannon,  intended 
to  keep  the  wall  compact  and  close.  These  outer 
erections  are,  however,  not  the  work  of  the  French, 
but  of  the  English  government. 


Ch.  VIII. 


JOHN  MOORE. 


171 


Yes,  there  lies  the  hero,  almost  within  sight  of 
the  glorious  hill  where  he  turned  upon  his  pur- 
suers like  a lion  at  bay  and  terminated  his  career. 
Many  acquire  immortality  without  seeking  it,  and 
die  before  its  first  ray  has  gilded  their  name ; of 
these  was  Moore.  The  harassed  general,  flying 
through  Castile  with  his  dispirited  troops  before  a 
fierce  and  terrible  enemy,  little  dreamed  that  he 
was  on  the  point  of  attaining  that  for  which  many 
a better,  greater,  though  certainly  not  braver  man, 
had  sighed  in  vain.  His  very  misfortunes  were 
the  means  which  secured  him  immortal  fame  ; his 
disastrous  route,  bloody  death,  and  finally  his 
tomb  on  a foreign  strand,  far  from  kin  and  friends. 
There  is  scarcely  a Spaniard  but  has  heard  of 
this  tomb,  and  speaks  of  it  with  a strange  kind 
of  awe.  Immense  treasures  are  said  to  have 
been  buried  with  the  heretic  general,  though  for 
what  purpose  no  one  pretends  to  guess.  The 
demons  of  the  clouds,  if  we  may  trust  the  Galle- 
gans,  followed  the  English  in  their  flight,  and  as- 
sailed them  with  water-spouts  as  they  toiled  up 
the  steep  winding  paths  of  Fuencebadon ; whilst 

I 2 


172 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  VIII. 


legends  the  most  wild  are  related  of  the  manner 
in  which  the  stout  soldier  fell.  Yes,  even  in 
Spain,  immortality  has  already  crowned  the  head 
of  Moore ; — Spain,  the  land  of  oblivion,  where 
the  Guadalete*  flows. 


* The  ancient  Lethe. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

COMPOSTELLA.  — REY  ROMERO.  — THE  TREASURE-SEEKER. 

HOPEFUL  PROJECT THE  CHURCH  OF  REFUGE.  — HIDDEN  RICHES. 

— THE  CANON.  — SPIRIT  OF  LOCALISM. — THE  LEPER. — BONES  OF 
SAINT  JAMES. 

At  the  commencement  of  August,  I found  myself 
at  St.  James  of  Compostella.  To  this  place  1 
travelled  from  Coruna  with  the  courier  or  weekly 
post,  who  was  escorted  by  a strong  party  of  sol- 
diers, in  consequence  of  the  distracted  state  of 
the  country,  which  was  overrun  with  banditti. 
From  Coruna  to  St.  James,  the  distance  is  but 
ten  leagues ; the  journey,  however,  endured  for  a 
day  and  a half.  It  was  a pleasant  one,  through  a 
most  beautiful  country,  with  a rich  variety  of  hill 
and  dale  ; the  road  was  in  many  places  shaded 
with  various  kinds  of  trees  clad  in  most  luxu- 
riant foliage.  Hundreds  of  travellers,  both  on 
foot  and  on  horseback,  availed  themselves  of  the 
security  which  the  escort  afforded : the  dread  of 


174 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IX 


banditti  was  strong.  During  the  journey  two  or 
three  alarms  were  given  ; we,  however,  reached 
Saint  James  without  having  been  attacked. 

Saint  James  stands  on  a pleasant  level  amidst 
mountains  : the  most  extraordinary  of  these  is 
a conical  hill,  called  the  Pico  Sacro,  or  Sacred 
Peak,  connected  with  which  are  many  wonderful 
legends.  A beautiful  old  town  is  Saint  James, 
containing  about  twenty  thousand  inhabitants. 
Time  has  been  when,  with  the  single  excep- 
tion of  Rome,  it  was  the  most  celebrated  resort 
of  pilgrims  in  the  world ; its  cathedral  being 
said  to  contain  the  bones  of  Saint  James  the 
elder,  the  child  of  the  thunder,  who,  accord- 
ing to  the  legend  of  the  Romish  church,  first 
preached  the  Gospel  in  Spain.  Its  glory,  how- 
ever, as  a place  of  pilgrimage  is  rapidly  passing 
away. 

The  cathedral,  though  a work  of  various  pe- 
riods, and  exhibiting  various  styles  of  architec- 
ture, is  a majestic  venerable  pile,  in  every  respect 
calculated  to  excite  awe  and  admiration ; indeed, 
it  is  almost  impossible  to  walk  its  long  dusky  aisles, 
and  hear  the  solemn  music  and  the  noble  chanting. 


Ch.  IX.] 


COMPOSTELLA. 


175 


and  inhale  the  incense  of  the  mighty  censers, 
which  are  at  times  swung  so  high  by  machinery 
as  to  smite  the  vaulted  roof,  whilst  gigantic  tapers 
glitter  here  and  there  amongst  the  gloom,  from 
the  shrine  of  many  a saint,  before  which  the  wor- 
shippers are  kneeling,  breathing  forth  their  prayers 
and  petitions  for  help,  love,  and  mercy,  and  en- 
tertain a doubt  that  we  are  treading  the  floor  of  a 
house  where  God  delighteth  to  dwell.  Yet  the 
Lord  is  distant  from  that  house  ; he  hears  not,  he 
sees  not,  or  if  he  do,  it  is  with  anger.  What 
availeth  that  solemn  music,  that  noble  chanting, 
that  incense  of  sweet  savour?  What  availeth 
kneeling  before  that  grand  altar  of  silver,  sur- 
mounted by  that  figure  with  its  silver  hat  and 
breast-plate,  the  emblem  of  one  who,  though  an 
apostle  and  confessor,  was  at  best  an  unprofitable 
servant  ? What  availeth  hoping  for  remission  of 
sin  by  trusting  in  the  merits  of  one  who  possessed 
none,  or  by  paying  homage  to  others  who  were 
born  and  nurtured  in  sin,  and  who  alone,  by  the 
exercise  of  a lively  faith  granted  from  above,  could 
hope  to  preserve  themselves  from  the  wrath  of  the 
Almighty  ? 


176 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IX. 


Rise  from  your  knees,  ye  children  of  Compos- 
tella,  or  if  ye  bend,  let  it  be  to  the  Almighty  alone, 
and  no  longer  on  the  eve  of  your  patron’s  day  ad- 
dress him  in  the  following  strain,  however  sublime 
it  may  sound : 

“ Thou  shield  of  that  faith  which  in  Spain  we  revere, 

Thou  scourge  of  each  foeman  who  dares  to  draw  near ; 

Whom  the  Son  of  that  God  who  the  elements  tames, 

Called  child  of  the  thunder,  immortal  Saint  James  ! 

“ From  the  blessed  asylum  of  glory  intense, 

Upon  us  thy  sovereign  influence  dispense  ; 

And  list  to  the  praises  our  gratitude  aims 
To  offer  up  worthily*  mighty  Saint  James. 

“ To  thee  fervent  thanks  Spain  shall  ever  outpour ; 

In  thy  name  though  she  glory,  she  glories  yet  more 
In  thy  thrice-hallowed  corse,  which  the  sanctuary  claims 
Of  high  Compostella,  O,  blessed  Saint  James. 

“ When  heathen  impiety,  loathsome  and  dread, 

With  a chaos  of  darkness  our  Spain  overspread, 

Thou  wast  the  first  light  which  dispell’d  with  its  flames 
The  hell-born  obscurity,  glorious  Saint  James  ! 

“ And  when  terrible  wars  had  nigh  wasted  our  force. 

All  bright  ’midst  the  battle  we  saw  thee  on  horse, 

Fierce  scattering  the  hosts,  whom  their  fury  proclaims 
To  be  warriors  of  Islam,  victorious  Saint  James. 

“ Beneath  thy  direction,  stretch’d  prone  at  thy  feet, 

With  hearts  low  and  humble,  this  day  we  intreat 
Thou  wilt  strengthen  the  hope  which  enlivens  our  frames. 
The  hope  of  thy  favour  and  presence,  Saint  James. 


Ch.  IX.] 


REY  ROMERO. 


177 


“ Then  praise  to  the  Son  and  the  Father  above, 

And  to  that  Holy  Spirit  which  springs  from  their  love ; 

To  that  bright  emanation  whose  vividness  shames 
The  sun’s  burst  of  splendour,  and  praise  to  Saint  James.  ” 

At  Saint  James  I met  with  a kind  and  cordial 
coadjutor  in  my  biblical  labours  in  the  bookseller 
of  the  place,  Rey  Romero,  a man  of  about  sixty. 
This  excellent  individual,  who  was  both  wealthy 
and  respected,  took  up  the  matter  with  an  enthu- 
siasm which  doubtless  emanated  from  on  high, 
losing  no  opportunity  of  recommending  my  book 
to  those  who  entered  his  shop,  which  was  in  the 
Azabacheria,  and  was  a very  splendid  and  com- 
modious establishment.  In  many  instances,  when 
the  peasants  of  the  neighbourhood  came  with  an 
intention  of  purchasing  some  of  the  foolish  popu- 
lar story-books  of  Spain,  he  persuaded  them  to 
carry  home  Testaments  instead,  assuring  them 
that  the  sacred  volume  was  a better,  more  in- 
structive, and  even  far  more  entertaining  book 
than  those  they  came  in  quest  of.  He  speedily 
conceived  a great  fancy  for  me,  and  regularly 
came  to  visit  me  every  evening  at  my  posada,  and 
accompanied  me  in  my  walks  about  the  town  and 
the  environs.  He  was  a man  of  considerable  in- 


178 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IX. 


formation,  and  though  of  much  simplicity,  pos- 
sessed a kind  of  good-natured  humour  which  was 
frequently  highly  diverting. 

I was  walking  late  one  night  alone  in  the  Ala- 
meda of  Saint  James,  considering  in  what  direc- 
tion I should  next  bend  my  course,  for  I had 
been  already  ten  days  in  this  place ; the  moon 
was  shining  gloriously,  and  illumined  every  object 
around  to  a considerable  distance.  The  Alameda 
was  quite  deserted  ; every  body,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  myself,  having  for  some  time  retired.  I 
sat  down  on  a bench  and  continued  my  reflec- 
tions, which  were  suddenly  interrupted  by  a 
heavy  stumping  sound.  Turning  my  eyes  in  the 
direction  from  which  it  proceeded,  I perceived 
what  at  first  appeared  a shapeless  bulk  slowly 
advancing : nearer  and  nearer  it  drew,  and  I 
could  now,  distinguish  the  outline  of  a man 
dressed  in  coarse  brown  garments,  a kind  of  An- 
dalusian hat,  and  using  as  a staff  the  long  peeled 
branch  of  a tree.  He  had  now  arrived  opposite 
the  bench  where  I was  seated,  when,  stopping, 
he  took  off  his  hat  and  demanded  charity  in  un- 
couth tones  and  in  a strange  jargon,  which  had 


Ch.  IX.] 


THE  TREASURE-SEEKER. 


179 


some  resemblance  to  the  Catalan.  The  moon 
shone  on  grey  locks  and  on  a ruddy  weather 
beaten  countenance  which  I at  once  recognised : 
“ Benedict  Mol,”  said  I,  “ is  it  possible  that  I 
see  you  at  Compostella  ? ” 

“ Och,  mein  Gott,  es  ist  der  Herr  ! ” replied 
Benedict.  “ Och,  what  good  fortune,  that  the 
Herr  is  the  first  person  I meet  at  Compostella.” 

Myself. — I can  scarcely  believe  my  eyes.  Do 
you  mean  to  say  that  you  have  just  arrived  at  this 
place  ? 

Benedict. — Ow  yes,  I am  this  moment  arrived. 
1 have  walked  all  the  long  way  from  Madrid. 

Myself. — What  motive  could  possibly  bring 
you  such  a distance? 

Benedict. — Ow,  I am  come  for  the  schatz — the 
treasure.  I told  you  at  Madrid  that  I was  com- 
ing ; and  now  I have  met  you  here,  I have  no 
doubt  that  I shall  find  it,  the  schatz. 

Myself. — In  what  manner  did  you  support 
yourself  by  the  way  ? 

Benedict.— Ow,  I begged,  I bettled,  and  so 
contrived  to  pick  up  some  cuartos ; and  when  I 
reached  Toro,  I worked  at  my  trade  of  soap- 


180 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IX 


making  for  a time,  till  the  people  said  I knew 
nothing  about  it,  and  drove  me  out  of  the  town. 
So  I went  on  and  begged  and  bettled  till  I ar- 
rived at  Orense,  which  is  in  this  country  of  Ga- 
licia. Ow,  I do  not  like  this  country  of  Galicia 
at  all. 

Myself ! — Why  not  ? 

Benedict . — Why ! because  here  they  all  beg 
and  bettle,  and  have  scarce  any  thing  for  them- 
selves, much  less  for  me  whom  they  know  to  be 
a foreign  man.  O the  misery  of  Galicia.  When 
I arrive  at  night  at  one  of  their  pigsties,  which 
they  call  posadas,  and  ask  for  bread  to  eat  in  the 
name  of  God,  and  straw  to  lie  down  in,  they 
curse  me,  and  say  there  is  neither  bread  nor 
straw  in  Galicia ; and  sure  enough,  since  I have 
been  here  I have  seen  neither,  only  something 
that  they  call  broa,  and  a kind  of  reedy  rubbish 
with  which  they  litter  the  horses : all  my  bones 
are  sore  since  I entered  Galicia. 

Myself, — And  yet  you  have  come  to  this 
country,  which  you  call  so  miserable,  in  search 
of  treasure  ? 

Benedict. — Ow  yaw,  but  the  schatz  is  buried ; 


Ch.  IX.] 


HOPEFUL  PROJECT. 


181 


it  is  not  above  ground;  there  is  no  money  above 
ground  in  Galicia.  I must  dig  it  up ; and  when 
I have  dug  it  up  I will  purchase  a coach  with  six 
mules,  and  ride  out  of  Galicia  to  Lucerne  ; and 
if  the  Herr  pleases  to  go  with  me,  he  shall  be 
welcome  to  go  with  me  and  the  schatz. 

Myself. — I am  afraid  that  you  have  come  on 
a desperate  errand.  What  do  you  propose  to 
do  ? Have  you  any  money  ? 

Benedict. — Not  a cuart ; but  I do  not  care 
now  I have  arrived  at  Saint  James.  The  schatz 
is  nigh ; and  I have,  moreover,  seen  you,  which 
is  a good  sign ; it  tells  me  that  the  schatz  is  still 
here.  I shall^go  to  the  best  posada  in  the  place, 
and  live  like  a duke  till  I have  an  opportunity  of 
digging  up  the  schatz,  when  I will  pay  all  scores. 

“ Do  nothing  of  the  kind,”  I replied ; “ find 
out  some  place  in  which  to  sleep,  and  endeavour 
to  seek  some  employment.  In  the  mean  time, 
here  is  a trifle  with  which  to  support  yourself; 
but  as  for  the  treasure  which  you  have  come  to 
seek,  I believe  it  only  exists  in  your  own  ima- 
gination.” I gave  him  a dollar  and  departed. 

I have  never  enjoyed  more  charming  walks 


182 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IX. 


than  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Saint  James.  In 
these  I was  almost  invariably  accompanied  by  my 
friend  the  good  old  bookseller.  The  streams  are 
numerous,  and  along  their  wooded  banks  we  were 
in  the  habit  of  straying  and  enjoying  the  de- 
licious summer  evenings  of  this  part  of  Spain. 
Religion  generally  formed  the  topic  of  our  con- 
versation, but  we  not  unfrequently  talked  of  the 
foreign  lands  which  I had  visited,  and  at  other 
times  of  matters  which  related  particularly  to  my 
companion.  “ We  booksellers  of  Spain,”  said  he, 
u are  all  liberals ; we  are  no  friends  to  the  monkish 
system.  How  indeed  should  we  be  friends  to  it  ? 
It  fosters  darkness,  whilst  we  live  by  disseminating 
light.  We  love  our  profession,  and  have  all  more 
or  less  suffered  for  it ; many  of  us,  in  the  times 
of  terror,  were  hanged  for  selling  an  innocent 
translation  from  the  French  or  English.  Shortly 
after  the  Constitution  was  put  down  by  Angouleme 
and  the  French  bayonets,  I was  obliged  to  flee 
from  Saint  James  and  take  refuge  in  the  wildest 
part  of  Galicia,  near  Corcuvion.  Had  I not 
possessed  good  friends,  I should  not  have  been 
alive  now;  as  it  was,  it  cost  me  a considerable 


Ch.  IX.] 


THE  CHURCH  OF  REFUGE. 


183 


sum  of  money  to  arrange  matters.  Whilst  I was 
away,  my  shop  was  in  charge  of  the  ecclesiastical 
officers.  They  frequently  told  my  wife  that  I 
ought  to  be  burnt  for  the  books  which  I had  sold. 
Thanks  be  to  God,  those  times  are  past,  and  I 
hope  they  will  never  return.” 

Once,  as  we  were  walking  through  the  streets  of 
Saint  James,  he  stopped  before  a church  and 
looked  at  it  attentively.  As  there  was  nothing 
remarkable  in  the  appearance  of  this  edifice,  I 
asked  him  what  motive  he  had  for  taking  such 
notice  of  it.  “ In  the  days  of  the  friars,”  said 
he,  “ this  church  was  one  of  refuge,  to  which  if 
the  worst  criminals  escaped,  they  were  safe.  All 
were  protected  there  save  the  negros,  as  they 
called  us  liberals.”  “Even  murderers,  I sup- 
pose ?”  said  I.  “ Murderers  !”  he  answered,  “ far 
worse  criminals  than  they.  By  the  by,  I have 
heard  that  you  English  entertain  the  utmost  ab- 
horrence of  murder.  Do  you  in  reality  consider 
it  a crime  of  very  great  magnitude  ?”  “ How 

should  we  not,”  I replied ; “ for  every  other  crime 
some  reparation  can  be  made ; but  if  we  take 
away  life,  we  take  away  all.  A ray  of  hope  with 


184 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IX. 


respect  to  this  world  may  occasionally  enliven 
the  bosom  of  any  other  criminal,  but  how  can  the 
murderer  hope  ? ” “ The  friars  were  of  another 

way  of  thinking,”  replied  the  old  man ; “ they 

V 

always  looked  upon  murder  as  a friolera ; but  not 
so  the  crime  of  marrying  your  first  cousin  with- 
out dispensation,  for  which,  if  we  believe  them, 
there  is  scarcely  any  atonement  either  in  this 
world  or  the  next.” 

Two  or  three  days  after  this,  as  we  were  seated 
in  my  apartment  in  the  posada,  engaged  in  con- 
versation, the  door  was  opened  by  Antonio,  who, 
with  a smile  on  his  countenance,  said  that  there 
was  a foreign  gentleman  below  who  desired  to 
speak  with  me.  “ Show  him  up,”  I replied; 
whereupon  almost  instantly  appeared  Benedict 
Mol. 

“ This  is  a most  extraordinary  person,”  said  I 
to  the  bookseller.  “ You  Galicians,  in  general, 
leave  your  country  in  quest  of  money ; he,  on  the 
contrary,  is  come  hither  to  find  some.” 

Reg  Romero . — And  he  is  right.  Galicia  is  by 
nature  the  richest  province  in  Spain,  but  the  in- 
habitants are  very  stupid,  and  know  not  how  to 


Ch.  IX.] 


HIDDEN  RICHES. 


185 


turn  the  blessings  which  surround  them  to  any 
account ; but  as  a proof  of  what  may  be  made 
out  of  Galicia,  see  how  rich  the  Catalans  become 
who  have  settled  down  here  and  formed  establish- 
ments. There  are  riches  all  around  us,  upon  the 
earth  and  in  the  earth. 

Benedict . — Ow  yaw,  in  the  earth,  that  is  what 
I say.  There  is  much  more  treasure  below  the 
earth  than  above  it. 

Myself— Since  I last  saw  you,  have  you  dis- 
covered the  place  in  which  you  say  the  treasure 
is  deposited  ? 

Benedict . — O yes,  I know  all  about  it  now.  It 
is  buried  ’neath  the  sacristy  in  the  church  of 
San  Roque. 

Myself — How  have  you  been  able  to  make  that 
discovery  ? 

Benedict . — I will  tell  you:  the  day  after  my 
arrival  I walked  about  all  the  city  in  quest  of  the 
church,  but  could  find  none  which  at  all  answered 
to  the  signs  which  my  comrade  who  died  in  the 
hospital  gave  me.  I entered  several,  and  looked 
about,  but  all  in  vain ; I could  not  find  the  place 
which  I had  in  my  mind’s  eye.  At  last  the  people 


186 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IX. 


with  whom  I lodge,  and  to  whom  I told  my  busi- 
ness, advised  me  to  send  for  a meiga. 

Myself  \ — A meiga ! What  is  that  ? 

Benedict . — Ow  ! a haxweib,  a witch ; the  Galle- 
gos call  them  so  in  their  jargon,  of  which  I can 
scarcely  understand  a word.  So  I consented, 
and  they  sent  for  the  meiga.  Och  ! what  a weib 
is  that  meiga  ! I never  saw  such  a woman  ; she 
is  as  large  as  myself,  and  has  a face  as  round  and 
red  as  the  sun.  She  asked  me  a great  many 
questions  in  her  Gallegan,  and  when  I had  told 
her  all  she  wanted  to  know,  she  pulled  out  a 
pack  of  cards  and  laid  them  on  the  table  in  a 
particular  manner,  and  then  she  said  that  the 
treasure  was  in  the  church  of  San  Roque ; and 
sure  enough,  when  I went  to  that  church,  it  an- 
swered in  every  respect  to  the  signs  of  my  com- 
rade who  died  in  the  hospital.  O she  is  a power- 
ful hax,  that  meiga ; she  is  well  known  in  the 
neighbourhood,  and  has  done  much  harm  to  the 
cattle.  I gave  her  half  the  dollar  I had  from  you 
for  her  trouble. 

Myself. — Then  you  acted  like  a simpleton ; she 
has  grossly  deceived  you.  But  even  suppose  that 


Ch.  IX.] 


THE  CANON. 


187 


the  treasure  is  really  deposited  in  the  church 
you  mention,  it  is  not  probable  that  you  will  be 
permitted  to  remove  the  floor  of  the  sacristy  to 
search  for  it. 

Benedict . — Ow,  the  matter  is  already  well  ad- 
vanced. Yesterday  I went  to  one  of  the  canons 
to  confess  myself  and  to  receive  absolution  and 
benediction ; not  that  I regard  these  things  much, 
but  I thought  this  would  be  the  best  means  of 
broaching  the  matter,  so  I confessed  myself,  and 
then  I spoke  of  my  travels  to  the  canon,  and  at 
last  T told  him  of  the  treasure,  and  proposed  that 
if  he  assisted  me  we  should  share  it  between  us. 
Ow,  I wish  you  had  seen  him ; he  entered  at  once 
into  the  affair,  and  said  that  it  might  turn  out  a 
very  profitable  speculation : and  he  shook  me  by 
the  hand,  and  said  that  I was  an  honest  Swiss  and 
a good  Catholic.  And  I then  proposed  that  he 
should  take  me  into  his  house  and  keep  me  there 
till  we  had  an  opportunity  of  digging  up  the  trea- 
sure together.  This  he  refused  to  do. 

Rey  Romero . — Of  that  I have  no  doubt : trust 
one  of  our  canons  for  not  committing  himself  so 
far  until  he  sees  very  good  reason.  These  tales 


188 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IX. 


of  treasure  are  at  present  rather  too  stale : we 
have  heard  of  them  ever  since  the  time  of  the 
Moors. 

Benedict. — He  advised  me  to  go  to  the  Captain 
General  and  obtain  permission  to  make  excava- 
tions, in  which  case  he  promised  to  assist  me  to 
the  utmost  of  his  power. 

Thereupon  the  Swiss  departed,  and  I neither 
saw  nor  heard  any  thing  farther  of  him  during 
the  time  that  I continued  at  Saint  James. 

The  bookseller  was  never  weary  of  shewing  me 
about  his  native  town,  of  which  he  was  enthu- 
siastically fond.  Indeed,  I have  never  seen  the 
spirit  of  localism,  which  is  so  prevalent  through- 
out Spain,  more  strong  than  at  Saint  James.  If 
their  town  did  but  flourish,  the  Santiagians 
seemed  to  care  but  little  if  all  others  in  Galicia 
perished.  Their  antipathy  to  the  town  of  Coruna 
was  unbounded,  and  this  feeling  had  of  late  been 
not  a little  increased  from  the  circumstance  that 
the  seat  of  the  provincial  government  had  been 
removed  from  Saint  James  to  Coruna.  Whether 
this  change  was  advisable  or  not,  it  is  not  for  me, 
who  am  a foreigner,  to  say ; my  private  opinion, 


Ch.  IX.] 


SPIRIT  OF  LOCALISM. 


189 


however,  is  by  no  means  favourable  to  the  altera- 
tion. Saint  James  is  one  of  the  most  central 
towns  in  Galicia,  with  large  and  populous  com- 
munities on  every  side  of  it,  whereas  Coruna 
stands  in  a corner,  at  a considerable  distance 
from  the  rest.  “ It  is  a pity  that  the  vecinos  of 
Coruna  cannot  contrive  to  steal  away  from  us 
our  cathedral,  even  as  they  have  done  our  go- 
vernment,” said  a Santiagian  ; “ then,  indeed,  they 
would  be  able  to  cut  some  figure.  As  it  is,  they 
have  not  a church  fit  to  say  mass  in.”  “ A great 
pity,  too,  that  they  cannot  remove  our  hospital,” 
would  another  exclaim ; ci  as  it  is,  they  are  obliged 
to  send  us  their  sick,  poor  wretches.  I always 
think  that  the  sick  of  Coruna  have  more  ill- 
favoured  countenances  than  those  from  other 
places ; but  what  good  can  come  from  Coruna  ?” 

Accompanied  by  the  bookseller,  I visited  this 
hospital,  in  which,  however,  I did  not  remain 
long ; the  wretchedness  and  uncleanliness  which 
I observed  speedily  driving  me  away.  Saint 
James,  indeed,  is  the  grand  lazar-house  for  all  the 
rest  of  Galicia,  which  accounts  for  the  prodigious 
number  of  horrible  objects  to  be  seen  in  its 


190 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  IX. 


streets,  who  have  for  the  most  part  arrived  in  the 
hope  of  procuring  medical  assistance,  which, 
from  what  I could  learn,  is  very  scantily  and 
inefficiently  administered.  Amongst  these  un- 
happy  wretches  I occasionally  observed  the  terrible 
leper,  and  instantly  fled  from  him  with  a “ God 
help  thee,”  as  if  I had  been  a Jew  of  old.  Gali- 
cia is  the  only  province  of  Spain  where  cases  of 
leprosy  are  still  frequent;  a convincing  proof  this, 
that  the  disease  is  the  result  of  foul  feeding,  and 
an  inattention  to  cleanliness,  as  the  Gallegans, 
with  regard  to  the  comforts  of  life  and  civilized 
habits,  are  confessedly  far  behind  all  the  other 
natives  of  Spain. 

e(  Besides  a general  hospital  we  have  likewise 
a leper-house,”  said  the  bookseller.  “ Shall  I 
show  it  you?  We  have  every  thing  at  Saint 
James.  There  is  nothing  lacking;  the  very  leper 
finds  an  inn  here.”  “ I have  no  objection  to 
your  showing  me  the  house,”  I replied,  “ but  it 
must  be  at  a distance,  for  enter  it  I will  not.” 
Thereupon  he  conducted  me  down  the  road 
which  leads  towards  Padron  and  Vigo,  and  point- 
ing to  two  or  three  huts,  exclaimed,  u That  is  our 


Ch.  IX.] 


THE  LEPER. 


191 


leper-house.”  “ It  appears  a miserable  place,” 
I replied : “ what  accommodation  may  there  be 
for  the  patients,  and  who  attends  to  their  wants  ? ” 
“ They  are  left  to  themselves,”  answered  the 
bookseller,  “ and  probably  sometimes  perish  from 
neglect : the  place  at  one  time  was  endowed  and 
had  rents  which  were  appropriated  to  its  sup- 
port, but  even  these  have  been  sequestered  during 
the  late  troubles.  At  present,  the  least  unclean 
of  the  lepers  generally  takes  his  station  by  the 
road  side,  and  begs  for  the  rest.  See  there  he  is 
now.” 

And  sure  enough  the  leper  in  his  shining  scales, 
and  half  naked,  was  seated  beneath  a ruined  wall. 
We  dropped  money  into  the  hat  of  the  unhappy 
being,  and  passed  on. 

“ A bad  disorder  that,”  said  my  friend.  “ I 
confess  that  I,  who  have  seen  so  many  of  them, 
am  by  no  means  fond  of  the  company  of  lepers. 
Indeed,  I wish  that  they  would  never  enter  my 
shop,  as  they  occasionally  do  to  beg.  Nothing 
is  more  infectious,  as  I have  heard,  than  leprosy : 
there  is  one  very  virulent  species,  however,  which 
is  particularly  dreaded  here,  the  elephantine : 


192 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPATN. 


[Ch.  IX. 


those  who  die  of  it  should,  according  to  law,  be 
burnt,  and  their  ashes  scattered  to  the  winds : for 
if  the  body  of  such  a leper  be  interred  in  the 
field  of  the  dead,  the  disorder  is  forthwith  com- 
municated to  all  the  corses  even  below  the  earth. 
Such,  at  least,  is  our  idea  in  these  parts.  Law- 
suits are  at  present  pending  from  the  circum- 
stance of  elephantides  having  been  buried  with 
the  other  dead.  Sad  is  leprosy  in  all  its  forms, 
but  most  so  when  elephantine.” 

“ Talking  of  corses,”  said  I,  “ do  you  believe 
that  the  bones  of  St.  James  are  veritably  interred 
at  Compostella  ?” 

“ What  can  I say,”  replied  the  old  man  ; “ you 
know  as  much  of  the  matter  as  myself.  Beneath 
the  high  altar  is  a large  stone  slab  or  lid,  which  is 
said  to  cover  the  mouth  of  a profound  well,  at 
the  bottom  of  which  it  is  believed  that  the  bones 
of  the  saint  are  interred  ; though  why  they  should 
be  placed  at  the  bottom  of  a well,  is  a mystery 
which  I cannot  fathom.  One  of  the  officers  of 
the  church  told  me  that  at  one  time  he  and 
another  kept  watch  in  the  church  during  the 
night,  one  of  the  chapels  having  shortly  before 


Ch.  IX.] 


BONES  OF  SAINT  JAMES. 


193 


been  broken  open  and  a sacrilege  committed. 
At  the  dead  of  night,  finding  the  time  hang  heavy 
on  their  hands,  they  took  a crowbar  and  removed 
the  slab  and  looked  down  into  the  abyss  below; 
it  was  dark  as  the  grave ; whereupon  they  affixed 
a weight  to  the  end  of  a long  rope  and  lowered  it 
down.  At  a very  great  depth  it  seemed  to  strike 
against  something  dull  and  solid  like  lead : they 
supposed  it  might  be  a coffin  ; perhaps  it  was, 
but  whose  is  the  question. 


VOL.  II. 


K 


CHAPTER  X. 


SKIPPERS  OF  PADRON.  — C ALDAS  DE  LOS  REYES. — PONTEVEDRA. 
—THE  NOTARY  PUBLIC. — INSANE  BARBER. — AN  INTRODUCTION. 
— GALLEGAN  LANGUAGE.  — AFTERNOON  RIDE.  — VIGO.  — THE 
STRANGER. — JEWS  OF  THE  DESERT.  — BAY  OF  VIGO.  — SUDDEN 
INTERRUPTION. — THE  GOVERNOR. 

After  a stay  of  about  a fortnight  at  Saint  Janies, 
we  again  mounted  our  horses  and  proceeded  in 
the  direction  of  Vigo.  As  we  did  not  leave  Saint 
James  till  late  in  the  afternoon,  we  travelled  that 
day  no  farther  than  Padron,  a distance  of  only 
three  leagues.  This  place  is  a small  port,  situate 
at  the  extremity  of  a firth  which  communicates 
with  the  sea.  It  is  called  for  brevity’s  sake, 
Padron,  but  its  proper  appellation  is  Villa  del 
Padron,  or  the  town  of  the  patron  saint;  it 
having  been,  according  to  the  legend,  the  prin- 
cipal residence  of  Saint  James  during  his  stay  in 
Galicia.  By  the  Romans  it  was  termed  Iria 
Flavia.  It  is  a flourishing  little  town,  and  carries 
on  rather  an  extensive  commerce,  some  of  its 


Ch.  X.] 


SKIPPERS  OF  PADRON. 


195 


tiny  barks  occasionally  finding  their  way  across 
the  Bay  of  Biscay,  and  even  so  far  as  the  Thames 
and  London. 

There  is  a curious  anecdote  connected  with 
the  skippers  of  Padron,  which  can  scarcely  be 
considered  as  out  of  place  here,  as  it  relates  to 
the  circulation  of  the  Scriptures.  I was  one  day 
in  the  shop  of  my  friend  the  bookseller  at  Saint 
James,  when  a stout  good-humoured  looking 
priest  entered.  He  took  up  one  of  my  Testa- 
ments, and  forthwith  burst  into  a violent  fit  of 
laughter.  “ What  is  the  matter  ?”  demanded  tfie 
bookseller.  “ The  sight  of  this  book  reminds 
me  of  a circumstance,”  replied  the  other : “ about 
twenty  years  ago,  when  the  English  first  took  it 
into  their  heads  to  be  very  zealous  in  converting 
us  Spaniards  to  their  own  way  of  thinking,  they 
distributed  a great  number  of  books  of  this  kind 
amongst  the  Spaniards  who  chanced  to  be  in 
London ; some  of  them  fell  into  the  hands  of 
certain  skippers  of  Padron,  and  these  good  folks, 
on  their  return  to  Galicia,  were  observed  to  have 
become  on  a sudden  exceedingly  opinionated 
and  fond  of  dispute.  It  was  scarcely  possible 

k 2 


196 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  X. 


to  make  an  assertion  in  their  hearing  without 
receiving  a flat  contradiction,  especially  when 
religious  subjects  were  brought  on  the  carpet. 
6 It  is  false,’  they  would  say ; ‘ Saint  Paul,  in 
such  a chapter  and  in  such  a verse,  says  exactly 
the  contrary.’  6 What  can  you  know  concern- 
ing what  Saint  Paul  or  any  other  saint  has 
written?’  the  priests  would  ask  them.  ‘Much 
more  than  you  think,’  they  replied  ; ‘ we  are  no 
longer  to  be  kept  in  darkness  and  ignorance 
respecting  these  matters :’  and  then  they  would 
produce  their  books  and  read  paragraphs,  making- 
such  comments  that  every  person  was  scan- 
dalized ; they  cared  nothing  about  the  Pope, 
and  even  spoke  with  irreverence  of  the  bones 
of  Saint  James.  However,  the  matter  was  soon 
bruited  about,  and  a commission  w^as  despatched 
from  our  see  to  collect  the  books  and  bum  them. 
This  was  effected,  and  the  skippers  were  either 
punished  or  reprimanded,  since  which  I have 
heard  nothing  more  of  them.  I could  not  for- 
bear laughing  when  I saw  these  books  ; they  in- 
stantly brought  to  my  mind  the  skippers  of  Pa- 
dron  and  their  religious  disputations.” 


Ch.  X.] 


CALDAS  DE  LOS  REYES. 


197 


Our  next  day’s  journey  brought  us  to  Ponte- 
vedra.  As  there  was  no  talk  of  robbers  in  these 
parts,  we  travelled  without  any  escort  and  alone. 
The  road  was  beautiful  and  picturesque,  though 
somewhat  solitary,  especially  after  we  had  left 
behind  us  the  small  town  of  Caldas.  There  is 
more  than  one  place  of  this  name  in  Spain  ; the 
one  of  which  I am  speaking  is  distinguished  from 
the  rest  by  being  called  Caldas  de  los  Reyes,  or 
the  warm  baths  of  the  kings.  It  will  not  be  amiss 
to  observe  that  the  Spanish  Caldas  is  synonymous 
with  the  Moorish  Alhama , a word  of  frequent 
occurrence  both  in  Spanish  and  African  topo- 
graphy. Caldas  seemed  by  no  means  undeserv- 
ing of  its  name : it  stands  on  a confluence  of 
springs,  and  the  place  when  we  arrived  was 
crowded  with  people  who  had  come  to  enjoy  the 
benefit  of  the  waters.  In  the  course  of  my  travels 
I have  observed  that  wherever  warm  springs  are 
found,  vestiges  of  volcanos  are  sure  to  be  nigh ; 
the  smooth  black  precipice,  the  divided  moun- 
tain, or  huge  rocks  standing  by  themselves  on 
the  plain  or  on  the  hill  side,  as  if  Titans  had 
been  playing  at  bowls.  This  last  feature  occurs 


198 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  X. 


near  Caldas  de  los  Reyes,  the  side  of  the  moun- 
tain which  overhangs  it  in  the  direction  of  the 
south  being  covered  with  immense  granite  stones, 
apparently  at  some  ancient  period  eructed  from 
the  bowels  of  the  earth.  From  Caldas  to  Ponte- 
vedra  the  route  was  hilly  and  fatiguing,  the  heat 
was  intense,  and  those  clouds  of  flies,  which  con- 
stitute one  of  the  pests  of  Galicia,  annoyed  our 
horses  to  such  a degree  that  we  were  obliged  to 
cut  down  branches  from  the  trees  to  protect  their 
heads  and  necks  from  the  tormenting  stings  of 
these  blood-thirsty  insects.  Whilst  travelling  in 
Galicia  at  this  period  of  the  year  on  horseback, 
it  is  always  advisable  to  carry  a fine  net  for  the 
protection  of  the  animal,  a sure  and  commodious 
means  of  defence,  which  appears,  however,  to 
be  utterly  unknown  in  Galicia,  where,  perhaps, 
it  is  more  wanted  than  in  any  other  part  of  the 
world. 

Pontevedra,  upon  the  whole,  is  certainly  entitled 
to  the  appellation  of  a magnificent  town,  some 
of  its  public  edifices,  especially  the  convents, 
being  such  as  are  nowhere  to  be  found  but  in 
Spain  and  Italy.  It  is  surrounded  by  a wall  of 


Ch.  X.] 


PONTEVEDRA. 


199 


hewn  stone,  and  stands  at  the  end  of  a creek 
into  which  the  river  Levroz  disembogues.  It  is 
said  to  have  been  founded  by  a colony  of  Greeks, 
whose  captain  was  no  less  a personage  than 
Teucer  the  Telemonian.  It  was  in  former  times 
a place  of  considerable  commerce ; and  near  its 
port  are  to  be  seen  the  ruins  of  a farol,  or  light- 
house, said  to  be  of  great  antiquity.  The  port, 
however,  is  at  a considerable  distance  from  the 
town,  and  is  shallow  and  incommodious.  The 
whole  country  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Ponte- 
vedra  is  inconceivably  delicious,  abounding  with 
fruits  of  every  description,  especially  grapes, 
which  in  the  proper  season  are  seen  hanging 
from  the  “ parras  ” in  luscious  luxuriance.  An 
old  Andalusian  author  has  said  that  it  produces 
as  many  orange  and  citron  trees  as  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Cordova.  Its  oranges  are,  however, 
by  no  means  good,  and  cannot  compete  with 
those  of  Andalusia.  The  Pontevedrians  boast 
that  their  land  produces  two  crops  every  year, 
and  that  whilst  they  are  gathering  in  one  they 
may  be  seen  ploughing  and  sowing  another. 


200 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  X. 


They  may  well  be  proud  of  their  country,  which 
is  certainly  a highly  favoured  spot. 

The  town  itself  is  in  a state  of  great  decay,  and 
notwithstanding  the  magnificence  of  its  public 
edifices,  we  found  more  than  the  usual  amount  of 
Galician  filth  and  misery.  The  posada  was  one 
of  the  most  wretched  description,  and  to  mend 
the  matter,  the  hostess  was  a most  intolerable 
scold  and  shrew.  Antonio  having  found  fault 
with  the  quality  of  some  provision  which  she  pro- 
duced, she  cursed  him  most  immoderately  in  the 
country  language,  which  was  the  only  one  she 
spoke,  and  threatened,  if  he  attempted  to  breed 
any  disturbance  in  her  house,  to  turn  the 
horses,  himself,  and  his  master  forthwith  out  of 
doors.  Socrates  himself,  however,  could  not  have 
conducted  himself  on  this  occasion  with  greater 
forbearance  than  Antonio,  who  shrugged  his 
shoulders,  muttered  something  in  Greek,  and  then 
was  silent. 

“ Where  does  the  notary  public  live  ?”  I de- 
manded. Now  the  notary  public  vended  books, 
and  to  this  personage  I was  recommended  by  my 


Ch.  X.] 


THE  NOTARY  PUBLIC. 


201 


friend  at  Saint  James.  A boy  conducted  me  to 
the  house  of  Sehor  Garcia,  for  such  was  his  name. 
I found  him  a brisk,  active,  talkative  little  man  of 
forty.  He  undertook  with  great  alacrity  the  sale 
of  my  Testaments,  and  in  a twinkling  sold  two  to 
a client  who  was  waiting  in  the  office,  and  ap- 
peared to  be  from  the  country.  He  was  an  en- 
thusiastic patriot,  but  of  course  in  a local  sense, 
for  he  cared  for  no  other  country  than  Pontevedra. 

“ Those  fellows  of  Vigo,”  said  he,  “ say  their 
town  is  a better  one  than  ours,  and  that  it  is  more 
deserving  to  be  the  capital  of  this  part  of  Galicia. 
Did  you  ever  hear  such  folly  ? I tell  you  what, 
friend,  I should  not  care  if  Vigo  were  burnt,  and 
all  the  fools  and  rascals  within  it.  Would  you 
ever  think  of  comparing  Vigo  with  Pontevedra  ? ” 

“ I don’t  know,”  I replied  ; I have  never  been 
at  Vigo,  but  I have  heard  say  that  the  bay  of 
Vigo  is  the  finest  in  the  world.” 

“ Bay  ! my  good  sir.  Bay  ! yes,  the  rascals 
have  a bay,  and  it  is  that  bay  of  theirs  which  has 
robbed  us  of  all  our  commerce.  But  what  needs 
the  capital  of  a district  with  a bay  ? It  is  public 
edifices  that  it  wants,  where  the  provincial  de- 

k 3 


202 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  X. 


puties  can  meet  to  transact  their  business ; now, 
so  far  from  there  being  a commodious  public 
edifice,  there  is  not  a decent  house  in  all  Vigo. 
Bay  ! yes,  they  have  a bay,  but  have  they  water 
fit  to  drink  ? Have  they  a fountain  ? Yes,  they 
have,  and  the  water  is  so  brackish  that  it  would 
burst  the  stomach  of  a horse.  I hope,  my  dear 
sir,  that  you  have  not  come  all  this  distance  to 
take  the  part  of  such  a gang  of  pirates  as  those  of 
Vigo.” 

“ I am  not  come  to  take  their  part,”  I replied ; 
“ indeed,  I was  not  aware  that  they  wanted  my 
assistance  in  this  dispute.  I am  merely  carrying 
to  them  the  New  Testament,  of  which  they  evi- 
dently stand  in  much  need,  if  they  are  such 
knaves  and  scoundrels  as  you  represent  them.” 

“ Represent  them,  my  dear  sir.  Does  not  the 
matter  speak  for  itself?  Do  they  not  say  that 
their  town  is  better  than  ours,  more  fit  to  be  the 
capital  of  a district,  que  disparate!  que  bribo- 
neria  ! (what  folly  ! what  rascality !)” 

“ Is  there  a bookseller’s  shop  at  Vigo?”  I in- 
quired. 

“ There  was  one,”  he  replied,  “ kept  by  an  in- 


Ch.  X.] 


INSANE  BARBER, 


203 


sane  barber.  I am  glad,  for  your  sake,  that  it  is 
broken  up,  and  the  fellow  vanished;  he  would 
have  played  you  one  of  two  tricks ; he  would 
either  have  cut  your  throat  with  his  razor,  under 
pretence  of  shaving  you,  or  have  taken  your 
books  and  never  have  accounted  to  you  for  the 
proceeds.  Bay ! I never  could  see  what  right 
such  an  owl’s  nest  as  Vigo  has  to  a bay.” 

No  person  could  exhibit  greater  kindness  to 
another,  than  did  the  notary  public  to  myself,  as 
soon  as  I had  convinced  him  that  I had  no  inten- 
tion of  siding  with  the  men  of  Vigo  against  Ponte- 
vedra.  It  was  now  six  o’clock  in  the  evening, 
and  he  forthwith  conducted  me  to  a confectioner’s 
shop,  where  he  treated  me  with  an  iced  cream 
and  a small  cup  of  chocolate.  From  hence  we 
walked  about  the  city,  the  notary  showing  the  va- 
rious edifices,  especially  the  Convent  of  the  Je- 
suits : “ See  that  front,”  said  he,  “ what  do  you 
think  of  it  ?” 

I expressed  to  him  the  admiration  which  I 
really  felt,  and  by  so  doing  entirely  won  the  good 
notary’s  heart:  “I  suppose  there  is  nothing  like 
that  at  Vigo  ?”  said  I.  He  looked  at  me  for  a mo- 


204 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  X. 


inent,  winked,  gave  a short  triumphant  chuckle, 
and  then  proceeded  on  his  way,  walking  at  a tre- 
mendous rate.  The  Sehor  Garcia  was  dressed 
in  all  respects  as  an  English  notary  might  be ; 
he  wore  a white  hat,  brown  frock  coat,  drab 
breeches  buttoned  at  the  knees,  white  stockings, 
and  well  blacked  shoes.  But  I never  saw  an 
English  notary  walk  so  fast : it  could  scarcely  be 
called  walking:  it  seemed  more  like  a succession 
of  galvanic  leaps  and  bounds.  I found  it  im- 
possible to  keep  up  with  him : “ Where  are  you 
conducting  me  ?”  I at  last  demanded,  quite 
breathless. 

“ To  the  house  of  the  cleverest  man  in  Spain,” 
he  replied,  “ to  whom  I intend  to  introduce  you ; 
for  you  must  not  think  that  Pontevedra  has  no- 
thing to  boast  of  but  its  splendid  edifices  and  its 
beautiful  country ; it  produces  more  illustrious 
minds  than  any  other  town  in  Spain.  Did  you 
ever  hear  of  the  grand  Tamerlane  ?” 

“ Oh,  yes,”  said  I,  “ but  he  did  not  come  from 
Pontevedra  or  its  neighbourhood : he  came  from 
the  steppes  of  Tartary,  near  the  river  Oxus.” 

“ I know  he  did,”  replied  the  notary,  “ but  what 


Ch.  X.] 


AN  INTRODUCTION. 


205 


I mean  to  say  is,  that  when  Enrique  the  Third 
wanted  an  ambassador  to  send  to  that  African, 
the  only  man  he  could  find  suited  to  the  enter- 
prise, was  a knight  of  Pontevedra,  Don  * * * * * 
by  name.  Let  the  men  of  Vigo  contradict  that 
fact  if  they  can.” 

We  entered  a large  portal  and  ascended  a 
splendid  staircase,  at  the  top  of  which  the  notary 
knocked  at  a small  door : “ Who  is  the  gentleman 
to  whom  you  are  about  to  introduce  me?”  de- 
manded I. 

“ It  is  the  advocate  * * * *,”  replied  Garcia ; 
“ he  is  the  cleverest  man  in  Spain,  and  under- 
stands all  languages  and  sciences.” 

We  were  admitted  by  a respectable  looking 
female,  to  all  appearance  a housekeeper,  who,  on 
being  questioned,  informed  us  that  the  Advocate 
was  at  home,  and  forthwith  conducted  us  to  an 
immense  room,  or  rather  library,  the  walls  being 
covered  with  books,  except  in  two  or  three  places, 
where  hung  some  fine  pictures  of  the  ancient 
Spanish  school.  There  was  a rich  mellow  light 
in  the  apartment,  streaming  through  a window  of 
stained  glass,  which  looked  to  the  west.  Behind 


/ 


206 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  X. 


the  table  sat  the  Advocate,  on  whom  I looked 
with  no  little  interest : his  forehead  was  high  and 
wrinkled,  and  there  was  much  gravity  on  his  fea- 
tures, which  were  quite  Spanish.  He  was  dressed 
in  a long  robe,  and  might  be  about  sixty ; he  sat 
reading  behind  a large  table,  and  on  our  entrance 
half  raised  himself  and  bowed  slightly. 

The  notary  public  saluted  him  most  profoundly, 
and,  in  an  under  voice,  hoped  that  he  might  be 
permitted  to  introduce  a friend  of  his,  an  English 
gentleman,  who  was  travelling  through  Galicia. 

“ I am  very  glad  to  see  him,”  said  the  Advocate, 
“ but  I hope  he  speaks  Castilian,  else  we  can 
have  but  little  communication ; for,  although  I 
can  read  both  French  and  Latin,  I cannot  speak 
them.” 

“ He  speaks,  sir,  almost  as  good  Spanish,”  said 
the  notary,  “ as  a native  of  Pontevedra.” 

“ The  natives  of  Pontevedra,”  I replied,  “ ap- 
pear to  be  better  versed  in  Gallegan  than  in 
Castilian,  for  the  greater  part  of  the  conversation 
which  I hear  in  the  streets  is  carried  on  in  the 
former  dialect.” 

“ The  last  gentleman  which  my  friend  Garcia 


Ch.  X.] 


GALLEGAN  LANGUAGE. 


207 


introduced  to  me,”  said  the  Advocate,  “ was  a 
Portuguese,  who  spoke  little  or  no  Spanish.  It  is 
said  that  the  Gallegan  and  Portuguese  are  very 
similar,  but  when  we  attempted  to  converse  in  the 
two  languages,  we  found  it  impossible.  I under- 
stood little  of  what  he  said,  whilst  my  Gallegan 
was  quite  unintelligible  to  him.  Can  you  under- 
stand our  country  dialect  ?”  he  continued. 

“ Very  little  of  it,”  I replied  ; “ which  I believe 
chiefly  proceeds  from  the  peculiar  accent  and  un- 
couth enunciation  of  the  Gallegans,  for  their  lan- 
guage is  certainly  almost  entirely  composed  of 
Spanish  and  Portuguese  words.” 

“ So  you  are  an  Englishman,”  said  the  Advo- 
cate. “ Your  countrymen  have  committed  much 
damage  in  times  past  in  these  regions,  if  we  may 
trust  our  histories.” 

“ Yes,”  said  I,  “ they  sank  your  galleons  and 
burnt  your  finest  men-of-war  in  Yigo  Bay,  and 
under  old  Cobham,  levied  a contribution  of  forty 
thousand  pounds  sterling  on  this  very  town  of 
Pontevedra.” 

“Any  foreign  power,”  interrupted  the  notary 
public,  “ has  a clear  right  to  attack  Yigo,  but  I 


208 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  X. 


cannot  conceive  what  plea  your  countrymen  could 
urge  for  distressing  Pontevedra,  which  is  a respect- 
able town,  and  could  never  have  offended  them.” 

“Seiior  Cavalier,”  said  the  Advocate,  “I  will 
show  you  my  library.  Here  is  a curious  work,  a 
collection  of  poems,  written  mostly  in  Gallegan, 
by  the  curate  of  Fruime.  He  is  our  national  poet, 
and  we  are  very  proud  of  him.” 

We  stopped  upwards  of  an  hour  with  the  Advo- 
cate, whose  conversation,  if  it  did  not  convince 
me  that  he  was  the  cleverest  man  in  Spain,  was, 
upon  the  whole,  highly  interesting,  and  who  cer- 
tainly possessed  an  extensive  store  of  general 
information,  though  he  was  by  no  means  the  pro- 
found philologist  which  the  notary  had  represented 
him  to  be. 

When  I was  about  to  depart  from  Pontevedra 
in  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day,  the  Senor  Garcia 
stood  by  the  side  of  my  horse,  and  having 
embraced  me,  thrust  a small  pamphlet  into  my 
hand : “ This  book,”  said  he,  “ contains  a descrip- 
tion of  Pontevedra.  Wherever  you  go,  speak 
well  of  Pontevedra.”  I nodded.  “ Stay,”  said  he, 
“ niy  dear  friend,  I have  heard  of  your  society, 


Ch.  X.] 


AFTERNOON  RIDE. 


*209 


and  will  do  my  best  to  further  its  views.  I am 
quite  disinterested,  but  if  at  any  future  time  you 
should  have  an  opportunity  of  speaking  in  print 
of  Seiior  Garcia,  the  notary  public  of  Pontevedra, 
— you  understand  me, — I wish  you  would  do  so.” 

“ I will,”  said  I. 

It  was  a pleasant  afternoon’s  ride  from  Pon- 
tevedra to  Vigo,  the  distance  being  only  four 
leagues.  As  we  approached  the  latter  town,  the 
country  became  exceedingly  mountainous,  though 
scarcely  any  thing  could  exceed  the  beauty  of 
the  surrounding  scenery.  The  sides  of  the  hills 
were  for  the  most  part  clothed  with  luxuriant 
forests,  even  to  the  very  summits,  though  occa- 
sionally a flinty  and  naked  peak  would  present 
itself,  rising  to  the  clouds.  As  the  evening  came 
on,  the  route  along  which  we  advanced  became 
very  gloomy,  the  hills  and  forests  enwrapping  it 
in  deep  shade.  It  appeared,  however,  to  be  well 
frequented:  numerous  cars  were  creaking  along 
it,  and  both  horsemen  and  pedestrians  were  con- 
tinually passing  us.  The  villages  were  frequent. 
Vines  supported  on  parras,  were  growing,  if 
possible,  in  still  greater  abundance  than  in  the 


210 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  X. 


neighbourhood  of  Pontevedra.  Life  and  activity 
seemed  to  pervade  every  thing.  The  hum  of 
insects,  the  cheerful  bark  of  dogs,  the  rude  songs 
of  Galicia,  were  blended  together  in  pleasant 
symphony.  So  delicious  was  my  ride,  that  I 
almost  regretted  when  we  entered  the  gate  of 
Vigo. 

The  town  occupies  the  lower  part  of  a lofty 
hill,  which,  as  it  ascends,  becomes  extremely 
steep  and  precipitous,  and  the  top  of  which  is 
crowned  with  a strong  fort  or  castle.  It  is  a 
small  compact  place,  surrounded  with  low  walls  ; 
the  streets  are  narrow,  steep,  and  winding,  and 
in  the  middle  of  the  town  is  a small  square. 

There  is  rather  an  extensive  faubourg  extend- 
ing along  the  shore  of  the  bay.  We  found  an 
excellent  posada,  kept  by  a man  and  woman 
from  the  Basque  provinces,  who  were  both  civil 
and  intelligent.  The  town  seemed  to  be  crowded, 
and  resounded  with  noise  and  merriment.  The 
people  were  making  a wretched  attempt  at  an  il- 
lumination, in  consequence  of  some  victory  lately 
gained,  or  pretended  to  have  been  gained,  over 
the  forces  of  the  Pretender.  Military  uniforms 


Ch.  X.] 


VIGO. THE  STRANGER. 


211 


were  glancing  about  in  every  direction.  To  in- 
crease the  bustle,  a troop  of  Portuguese  players 
had  lately  arrived  from  Oporto,  and  their  first 
representation  was  to  take  place  this  evening. 
“ Is  the  play  to  be  performed  in  Spanish  ? ” I 
demanded.  “ No,”  was  the  reply ; “ and  on  that 
account  every  person  is  so  eager  to  go ; which 
would  not  be  the  case  if  it  were  in  a language 
which  they  could  understand.” 

On  the  morning  of  the  next  day  I was  seated 
at  breakfast  in  a large  apartment  which  looked 
out  upon  the  Plaza  Mayor,  or  great  square  of 
the  good  town  of  Vigo.  The  sun  was  shining 
very  brilliantly,  and  all  around  looked  lively  and 
gay.  Presently  a stranger  entered,  and  bowing 
profoundly,  stationed  himself  at  the  window, 
where  he  remained  a considerable  time  in  silence. 
He  was  a man  of  very  remarkable  appearance, 
of  about  thirty-five.  His  features  were  of  per- 
fect symmetry,  and  I may  almost  say,  of  perfect 
beauty.  His  hair  was  the  darkest  I had  ever 
seen,  glossy  and  shining;  his  eyes  large,  black, 

e 

and  melancholy ; but  that  which  most  struck  me 


212 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  X. 


was  his  complexion.  It  might  be  called  olive, 
it  is  true,  but  it  was  a livid  olive.  He  was 
dressed  in  the  very  first  style  of  French  fashion. 
Around  his  neck  was  a massive  gold  chain,  while 
upon  his  fingers  were  large  rings,  in  one  of 
which  was  set  a magnificent  ruby.  Who  can 
that  man  be  ? thought  I ; — Spaniard  or  Portu- 
guese, perhaps  a Creole.  I asked  him  an  indif- 
ferent question  in  Spanish,  to  which  he  forthwith 
replied  in  that  language,  but  his  accent  con- 
vinced me  that  he  was  neither  Spaniard  nor 
Portuguese. 

“ I presume  1 am  speaking  to  an  English- 
man, sir?”  said  he,  in  as  good  English  as 
it  was  possible  for  one  not  an  Englishman  to 
speak. 

Myself, — You  know  me  to  be  an  Englishman ; 
but  I should  find  some  difficulty  in  guessing  to 
what  country  you  belong. 

Stranger . — May  I take  a seat  ? 

Myself — A singular  question.  Have  you  not 
as  much  right  to  sit  in  the  public  apartment  of  an 
inn  as  myself? 


Ch.  X.] 


JEWS  OF  THE  DESERT. 


213 


Stranger . — I am  not  certain  of  that.  The 
people  here  are  not  in  general  very  gratified 
at  seing  me  seated  by  their  side. 

Myself— Perhaps  owing  to  your  political  opi- 
nions, or  to  some  crime  which  it  may  have  been 
your  misfortune  to  commit  ? 

Stranger . — -I  have  no  political  opinions,  and  I 
am  not  aware  that  I ever  committed  any  par- 
ticular crime, — I am  hated  for  my  country  and 
my  religion. 

Myself — Perhaps  I am  speaking  to  a Protest- 
ant, like  myself? 

Stranger . — I am  no  Protestant.  If  I were, 
they  would  be  cautious  here  of  showing  their 
dislike,  for  I should  then  have  a government  and 
a consul  to  protect  me.  I am  a Jew — a Barbary 
Jew,  a subject  of  Abderrahman. 

Myself — If  that  be  the  case,  you  can  scarcely 
complain  of  being  looked  upon  with  dislike  in 
this  country,  since  in  Barbary  the  Jews  are 
slaves. 

Stranger . — In  most  parts,  I grant  you,  but  not 
where  I was  born,  which  was  far  up  the  country, 
near  the  deserts.  There  the  Jews  are  free,  and 


214 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  X. 


are  feared,  and  are  as  valiant  men  as  the  Mos- 
lems themselves ; as  able  to  tame  the  steed,  or 
to  fire  the  gun.  The  Jews  of  our  tribe  are  not 
slaves,  and  I like  not  to  be  treated  as  a slave 
either  by  Christian  or  Moor. 

Myself  \ — Your  history  must  be  a curious  one, 
I would  fain  hear  it. 

Stranger . — My  history  I shall  tell  to  no  one. 
X have  travelled  much,  I have  been  in  commerce 
and  have  thriven.  I am  at  present  established 
in  Portugal,  but  I love  not  the  people  of  Catholic 
countries,  and  least  of  all  these  of  Spain.  I 
have  lately  experienced  the  most  shameful  in- 
justice in  the  Aduana  of  this  town,  and  when  I 
complained,  they  laughed  at  me  and  called  me 
Jew.  Wherever  he  turns,  the  Jew  is  reviled, 
save  in  your  country,  and  on  that  account  my 
blood  always  warms  when  I see  an  Englishman. 
You  are  a stranger  here.  Can  I do  aught  for 
you  ? You  may  command  me. 

Myself.— 1 thank  you  heartily,  but  I am  in 
need  of  no  assistance. 

Stranger. — Have  you  any  bills,  I will  accept 
them  if  you  have  ? 


Ch.  X.] 


BAY  OF  VIGO. 


215 


Myself. — I have  no  need  of  assistance ; but 
you  may  do  me  a favour  by  accepting  of  a 
book. 

Stranger . — I will  receive  it  with  thanks.  I 
know  what  it  is.  What  a singular  people  ! The 
same  dress,  the  same  look,  the  same  book.  Pel- 
ham gave  me  one  in  Egypt.  Farewell ! Your 
Jesus  was  a good  man,  perhaps  a prophet ; but 
. . . farewell  ! 

Well  may  the  people  of  Pontevedra  envy  the 
natives  of  Vigo  their  bay,  with  which,  in  many 
respects,  none  other  in  the  world  can  compare. 
On  every  side  it  is  defended  by  steep  and  sub- 
lime hills,  save  on  the  part  of  the  west,  where 
is  the  outlet  to  the  Atlantic ; but  in  the  midst 
of  this  outlet,  up  towers  a huge  rocky  wall,  or 
island,  which  breaks  the  swell,  and  prevents  the 
billows  of  the  western  sea  from  pouring  through 
in  full  violence.  On  either  side  of  this  island  is 
a passage,  so  broad,  that  navies  might  pass 
through  at  all  times  in  safety.  The  bay  itself  is 
oblong,  running  far  into  the  land,  and  so  ca- 
pacious, that  a thousand  sail  of  the  line  might 


216 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  X. 


ride  in  it  uncrowded.  The  waters  are  dark,  still, 
and  deep,  without  quicksands  or  shallows,  so  that 
the  proudest  man-of-war  might  lie  within  a stone’s 
throw  of  the  town  ramparts  without  any  fear  of  in- 
juring her  keel. 

Of  many  a strange  event,  and  of  many  a 
mighty  preparation  has  this  bay  been  the  scene. 
It  was  here  that  the  bulky  dragons  of  the  grand 
armada  were  mustered,  and  it  was  from  hence 
that,  fraught  with  the  pomp,  power,  and  terror 
of  Old  Spain,  the  monster  fleet,  spreading  its  enor- 
mous sails  to  the  wind,  and  bent  on  the  ruin  of 
the  Lutheran  isle,  proudly  steered ; — that  fleet,  to 
build  and  man  which  half  the  forests  of  Galicia 
had  been  felled,  and  all  the  mariners  impressed 
from  the  thousand  bays  and  creeks  of  the  stern 
Cantabrian  shore.  It  was  here  that  the  united  flags 
of  Holland  and  England  triumphed  over  the  pride 
of  Spain  and  France ; when  the  burning  timbers  of 
exploded  war-ships  soared  above  the  tops  of  the 
Gallegan  hills,  and  blazing  galleons  sank  with 
their  treasure  chests  whilst  drifting  in  the  direc- 
tion of  Sampayo.  It  was  on  the  shores  of  this 


Ch.  X.] 


SUDDEN  INTERRUPTION. 


217 


bay  that  the  English  guards  first  emptied  Spa- 
nish bodegas,  whilst  the  bombs  of  Cobham  were 
crushing  the  roofs  of  the  castle  of  Castro,  and 
the  vecinos  of  Pontevedra  buried  their  doubloons 
in  cellars,  and  flying  posts  were  conveying  to 
Lugo  and  Orensee  the  news  of  the  heretic  in- 
vasion and  the  disaster  of  Vigo.  All  these 
events  occurred  to  my  mind  as  I stood  far  up 
the  hill,  at  a short  distance  from  the  fort,  sur- 
veying the  bay. 

“ What  are  you  doing  there,  Cavalier  ?”  roared 
several  voices.  “ Stay,  Carracho  ! if  you  attempt 
to  run  we  will  shoot  you ! ” I looked  round  and 
saw  three  or  four  fellows  in  dirty  uniforms,  to  all 
appearance  soldiers,  just  above  me,  on  a winding 
path,  which  led  up  the  hill.  Their  muskets  were 
pointed  at  me.  “ What  am  I doing?  Nothing, 
as  you  see,”  said  I,  “ save  looking  at  the  bay ; 
and  as  for  running,  this  is  by  no  means  ground 
for  a course.”  “ You  are  our  prisoner,”  said  they, 
“ and  you  must  come  with  us  to  the  fort.”  “ I 
was  just  thinking  of  going  there,”  I replied, 
“ before  you  thus  kindly  invited  me.  The  fort 
is  the  very  spot  I was  desirous  of  seeing.”  I 


VOL.  II. 


L 


218  THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN.  [Ch.  X. 

thereupon  climbed  up  to  the  place  where  they 
stood,  when  they  instantly  surrounded  me,  and 
with  this  escort  I was  marched  into  the  fort, 
which  might  have  been  a strong  place  in  its 
time,  but  was  now  rather  ruinous.  “ You  are 
suspected  of  being  a spy,”  said  the  corporal, 
who  walked  in  front.  “ Indeed,”  said  I.  “ Yes,” 
replied  the  corporal,  “ and  several  spies  have 
lately  been  taken  and  shot.” 

Upon  one  of  the  parapets  of  the  fort  stood  a 
young  man,  dressed  as  a subaltern  officer,  and 
to  this  personage  I was  introduced.  “ We  have 
been  watching  you  this  half  hour,”  said  he,  “ as 
you  were  taking  observations.”  “ Then  you  gave 
yourselves  much  useless  trouble,”  said  I.  “ I 
am  an  Englishman,  and  was  merely  looking  at 
the  bay.  Have  the  kindness  now  to  show  me 
the  fort.” 

After  some  conversation,  he  said,  “ I wish  to  be 
civil  to  people  of  your  nation,  you  may  therefore 
consider  yourself  at  liberty.”  I bowed,  made  my 
exit,  and  proceeded  down  the  hill.  Just  before 
I entered  the  town,  however,  the  corporal,  who 
had  followed  me  unperceived,  tapped  me  on  the 


Ch.  X.] 


THE  GOVERNOR. 


219 


shoulder.  “ You  must  go  with  me  to  the  gover- 
nor,” said  he.  “ With  all  my  heart,”  I replied. 
The  governor  was  shaving  when  we  were  shown 
up  to  him.  He  was  in  his  shirt  sleeves,  and 
held  a razor  in  his  hand.  He  looked  very  ill- 
natured,  which  was  perhaps  owing  to  his  being 
thus  interrupted  in  his  toilet.  He  asked  me  two 
or  three  questions,  and  on  learning  that  I had  a 
passport,  and  was  the  bearer  of  a letter  to  the 
English  consul,  he  told  me  that  I was  at  liberty 
to  depart.  So  I bowed  to  the  governor  of  the 
town,  as  I had  done  to  the  governor  of  the  fort, 
and  making  my  exit  proceeded  to  my  inn. 

At  Vigo  I accomplished  but  little  in  the  way 
of  distribution,  and  after  a sojourn  of  a few  days, 
I returned  in  the  direction  of  Saint  James. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


ARRIVAL  AT  PADRON. — PROJECTED  ENTERPRISE. — THE  ALQUI- 
LADOR. — BREACH  OF  PROMISE. — AN  ODD  COMPANION.  — A PLAIN 
STORY. — RUGGED  PATHS. — THE  DESERTION. — THE  PONY.  — A 
DIALOGUE.  UNPLEASANT  SITUATION. — THE  ESTADEA.  — BE- 

NIGHTED.— THE  HUT.— THE  TRAVELLER’S  PILLOW. 

I arrived  at  Padron  late  in  the  evening,  on  my 
return  from  Pontevedra  and  Vigo.  It  was  my 
intention  at  this  place  to  send  my  servant  and 
horses  forward  to  Santiago,  and  to  hire  a guide 
to  Cape  Finisterra.  It  would  be  difficult  to  as- 
sign any  plausible  reason  for  the  ardent  desire 
which  I entertained  to  visit  this  place  ; but  I re- 
membered that  last  year  I had  escaped  almost  by 
a miracle  from  shipwreck  and  death  on  the  rocky 
sides  of  this  extreme  point  of  the  Old  World,  and 
I thought  that  to  convey  the  Gospel  to  a place  so 
wild  and  remote,  might  perhaps  be  considered  an 
acceptable  pilgrimage  in  the  eyes  of  my  Maker. 
True  it  is  that  but  one  copy  remained  of  those 
which  I had  brought  with  me  on  this  last  journey, 


Ch.  XI.] 


PROJECTED  ENTERPRISE. 


221 


but  this  reflection,  far  from  discouraging  me  in 
my  projected  enterprise,  produced  the  contrary 
effect,  as  I called  to  mind  that  ever  since  the 
Lord  revealed  himself  to  man,  it  has  seemed  good 
to  him  to  accomplish  the  greatest  ends  by  ap- 
parently the  most  insufficient  means ; and  I re- 
flected that  this  one  copy  might  serve  as  an  in- 
strument for  more  good  than  the  four  thousand 
nine  hundred  and  ninety-nine  copies  of  the 
edition  of  Madrid. 

I was  aware  that  my  own  horses  were  quite 
incompetent  to  reach  Finisterra,  as  the  roads  or 
paths  lie  through  stony  ravines,  and  over  rough 
and  shaggy  hills,  and  therefore  determined  to 
leave  them  behind  with  Antonio,  whom  I was 
unwilling  to  expose  to  the  fatigues  of  such  a 
journey.  I lost  no  time  in  sending  for  an  alqui- 
lador,  or  person  who  lets  out  horses,  and  inform- 
ing him  of  my  intention.  He  said  he  had  an 
excellent  mountain  pony  at  my  disposal,  and  that 
he  himself  would  accompany  me,  but  at  the  same 
time  observed,  that  it  was  a terrible  journey  for 
man  and  horse,  and  that  he  expected  to  be  paid 
accordingly.  I consented  to  give  him  what  he 


222 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XI. 


demanded,  but  on  the  express  condition  that  he 
would  perform  his  promise  of  attending  me  him- 
self, as  I was  unwilling  to  trust  myself  four  or  five 
days  amongst  the  hills  with  any  low  fellow  of  the 
town  whom  he  might  select,  and  who  it  was  very 
possible  might  play  me  some  evil  turn.  He  re- 
plied by  the  term  invariably  used  by  the  Spa- 
niards when  they  see  doubt  or  distrust  exhibited. 
“ No  tenga  listed  cuidao ,”  I will  go  myself. 
Having  thus  arranged  the  matter  perfectly  satis- 
factorily, as  I thought,  I partook  of  a slight  sup- 
per, and  shortly  afterwards  retired  to  repose. 

I had  requested  the  alquilador  to  call  me  the 
next  morning  at  three  o’clock;  he  however  did 
not  make  his  appearance  till  five,  having,  I sup- 
pose, overslept  himself,  which  was  indeed  my  own 
case.  I arose  in  a hurry,  dressed,  put  a few 
things  in  a bag,  not  forgetting  the  Testament 
which  I had  resolved  to  present  to  the  inhabit- 
ants of  Finisterra.  I then  sallied  forth  and  saw 
my  friend  the  alquilador,  who  was  holding  by  the 
bridle  the  pony  or  jaco  which  was  destined  to 
carry  me  in  my  expedition.  It  was  a beautiful 
little  animal,  apparently  strong  and  full  of  life, 


Ch.  XI.] 


THE  ALQUILADOR. 


223 


without  one  single  white  hair  in  its  whole  body, 
which  was  black  as  the  plumage  of  the  crow. 

Behind  it  stood  a strange  looking  figure  of  the 
biped  species,  to  whom,  however,  at  the  moment, 
I paid  little  attention,  but  of  whom  I shall  have 
plenty  to  say  in  the  sequel. 

Having  asked  the  horse-lender  whether  he  was 
ready  to  proceed,  and  being  answered  in  the 
affirmative,  I bade  adieu  to  Antonio,  and  putting 
the  pony  in  motion,  we  hastened  out  of  the  town, 
taking  at  first  the  road  which  leads  towards  San- 
tiago. Observing  that  the  figure  which  I have 
previously  alluded  to  was  following  close  at  our 
heels,  I asked  the  alquilador  who  it  was,  and 
the  reason  of  its  following  us ; to  which  he  re- 
plied that  it  was  a servant  of  his,  who  would 
proceed  a little  way  with  us  and  then  return. 
So  on  we  went  at  a rapid  rate,  till  we  were  within 
a quarter  of  a mile  of  the  Convent  of  the  Esela- 
vitud,  a little  beyond  which  he  had  informed  me 
that  we  should  have  to  turn  off  from  the  high  road ; 
but  here  he  suddenly  stopped  short,  and  in  a 
moment  we  were  all  at  a standstill.  I questioned 
the  guide  as  to  the  reason  of  this,  but  received  no 


224 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XL 


answer.  The  fellow’s  eyes  were  directed  to  the 
ground,  and  he  seemed  to  be  counting  with  the 
most  intense  solicitude  the  prints  of  the  hoofs  of 
the  oxen,  mules,  and  horses  in  the  dust  of  the 
road.  I repeated  my  demand  in  a louder  voice  ; 
when,  after  a considerable  pause,  he  somewhat 
elevated  his  eyes,  without  however  looking  me  in 
the  face,  and  said  that  he  believed  that  I enter- 
tained the  idea  that  he  himself  was  to  guide 
me  to  Finisterra,  which  if  I did,  he  was  very 
sorry  for,  the  thing  being  quite  impossible,  as  he 
was  perfectly  ignorant  of  the  way,  and,  more- 
over, incapable  of  performing  such  a journey 
over  rough  and  difficult  ground,  as  he  was  no 
longer  the  man  he  had  been,  and  over  and  above 
all  that,  he  was  engaged  that  day  to  accompany  a 
gentleman  to  Ponte vedra,  who  was  at  that  mo- 
ment expecting  him.  “ But,”  continued  he,  “ as 
I am  always  desirous  of  behaving  like  a caballero 
to  every  body,  I have  taken  measures  to  prevent 
your  being  disappointed.  This  person,”  pointing 
to  the  figure,  “ I have  engaged  to  accompany 
you.  He  is  a most  trustworthy  person,  and  is 
well  acquainted  with  the  route  to  Finisterra,  hav- 


Ch.  XL] 


BREACH  OF  PROMISE. 


225 


ing  been  thither  several  times  with  this  very  jaca 
on  which  you  are  mounted.  He  will,  besides, 
be  an  agreeable  companion  to  you  on  the  way, 
as  he  speaks  French  and  English  very  well, 
and  has  been  all  over  the  world.”  The  fellow 
ceased  speaking  at  last ; and  I was  so  struck 
with  his  craft,  impudence,  and  villany,  that  some 
time  elapsed  before  I could  find  an  answer. 
I then  reproached  him  in  the  bitterest  terms  for 
his  breach  of  promise,  and  said  that  I was  much 
tempted  to  return  to  the  town  instantly,  com- 
plain of  him  to  the  alcalde,  and  have  him 
punished  at  any  expense.  To  which  he  replied, 
“ Sir  Cavalier,  by  so  doing  you  will  be  nothing 
nearer  Finisterra,  to  which  you  seem  so  eager  to 
get.  Take  my  advice,  spur  on  the  jaca,  for  you 
see  it  is  getting  late,  and  it  is  twelve  long  leagues 
from  hence  to  Corcuvion,  where  you  must  pass 
the  night ; and  from  thence  to  Finisterra  is  no 
trifle.  As  for  the  man,  no  tenga  usted  cuidao , 
he  is  the  best  guide  in  all  Galicia,  speaks  Eng- 
lish and  French,  and  will  bear  you  pleasant  com- 
pany.” 

By  this  time  I had  reflected  that  by  returning 

L 3 


226 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XI. 


to  Padron  I should  indeed  be  only  wasting  time, 
and  that  by  endeavouring  to  have  the  fellow 
punished,  no  benefit  would  accrue  to  me  ; more- 
over, as  he  seemed  to  be  a scoundrel  in  every 
sense  of  the  word,  I might  as  well  proceed  in 
the  company  of  any  person  as  in  his.  I there- 
fore signified  my  intention  of  proceeding,  and 
told  him  to  go  back  in  the  Lord’s  name,  and  re- 
pent of  his  sins.  But  having  gained  one  point, 
he  thought  he  had  best  attempt  another ; so 
placing  himself  about  a yard  before  the  jaca,  he 
said  that  the  price  which  I had  agreed  to  pay  him 
for  the  loan  of  his  horse  (which  by  the  by  was 
the  full  sum  he  had  demanded)  was  by  no  means 
sufficient,  and  that  before  I proceeded  I must 
promise  him  two  dollars  more,  adding  that  he  was 
either  drunk  or  mad  when  he  had  made  such  a 
bargain.  I was  now  thoroughly  incensed,  and, 
without  a moment’s  reflection,  spurred  the  jaca, 
which  flung  him  down  in  the  dust,  and  passed 
over  him.  Looking  back  at  the  distance  of  a 
hundred  yards,  I saw  him  standing  in  the  same 
place,  his  hat  on  the  ground,  gazing  after  us,  and 
crossing  himself  most  devoutly.  His  servant, 


Ch.  XL] 


AN  ODD  COMPANION. 


227 


or  whatever  he  was,  far  from  offering  any  assist- 
ance to  his  principal,  no  sooner  saw  the  jaca  in 
motion  than  he  ran  on  by  its  side,  without  word 
or  comment,  farther  than  striking  himself  lustily 
on  the  thigh  with  his  right  palm.  We  soon 
passed  the  Esclavitud,  and  presently  afterwards 
turned  to  the  left  into  a stony  broken  path  lead- 
ing to  fields  of  maize.  We  passed  by  several 
farm-houses,  and  at  last  arrived  at  a dingle,  the 
sides  of  which  were  plentifully  overgrown  with 
dwarf  oaks,  and  which  slanted  down  to  a small 
dark  river  shaded  with  trees,  which  we  crossed  by 
a rude  bridge.  By  this  time  I had  had  sufficient 
time  to  scan  my  odd  companion  from  head  to 
foot.  His  utmost  height,  had  he  made  the 
most  of  himself,  might  perhaps  have  amounted 
to  five  feet  one  inch;  but  he  seemed  somewhat 
inclined  to  stoop.  Nature  had  gifted  him 
with  an  immense  head,  and  placed  it  clean 
upon  his  shoulders,  for  amongst  the  items  of  his 
composition  it  did  not  appear  that  a neck  had 
been  included.  Arms  long  and  brawny  swung 
at  his  sides,  and  the  whole  of  his  frame  was  as 
strong  built  and  powerful  as  a wrestler’s ; his  body 


228 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XL 


was  supported  by  a pair  of  short  but  very  nimble 
legs.  His  face  was  very  long,  and  would  have 
borne  some  slight  resemblance  to  a human  coun- 
tenance had  the  nose  been  more  visible,  for  its 
place  seemed  to  have  been  entirely  occupied  by 
a wry  mouth  and  large  staring  eyes.  His  dress 
consisted  of  three  articles : an  old  and  tattered 
hat  of  the  Portuguese  kind,  broad  at  the  crown 
and  narrow  at  the  eaves,  something  which  ap- 
peared to  be  a shirt,  and  dirty  canvass  trousers. 
Willing  to  enter  into  conversation  with  him,  and 
remembering  that  the  alquilador  had  informed 
me  that  he  spoke  languages,  I asked  him,  in  Eng- 
lish, if  he  had  always  acted  in  the  capacity  of 
guide  ? Whereupon  he  turned  his  eyes  with  a 
singular  expression  upon  my  face,  gave  a loud 
laugh,  a long  leap,  and  clapped  his  hands  thrice 
above  his  head.  Perceiving  that  he  did  not 
understand  me,  I repeated  my  demand  in  French, 
and  was  again  answered  by  the  laugh,  leap,  and 
clapping.  At  last  he  said  in  broken  Spanish, 
“ Master  mine,  speak  Spanish  in  God’s  name, 
and  I can  understand  you,  and  still  better  if 
you  speak  Gallegan,  but  I can  promise  no  more. 


Ch.  XI.] 


A PLAIN  STORY. 


229 


I heard  what  the  alquilador  told  you,  but  he  is 
the  greatest  embustero  in  the  whole  land,  and 
deceived  you  then  as  he  did  when  he  promised 
to  accompany  you.  I serve  him  for  my  sins ; 
but  it  was  an  evil  hour  when  I left  the  deep  sea 
and  turned  guide.”  He  then  informed  me  that 
he  was  a native  of  Padron,  and  a mariner  by  pro- 
fession, having  spent  the  greater  part  of  his  life 
in  the  Spanish  navy,  in  which  service  he  had 
visited  Cuba  and  many  parts  of  the  Spanish  Ame- 
ricas, adding,  46  when  my  master  told  you  that  I 
should  bear  you  pleasant  company  by  the  way,  it 
was  the  only  word  of  truth  that  has  come  from  his 
mouth  for  a month ; and  long  before  you  reach 
Finisterra  you  will  have  rejoiced  that  the  servant, 
and  not  the  master,  went  with  you : he  is  dull  and 
heavy,  but  I am  what  you  see.”  He  then  gave 
two  or  three  first-rate  summersets,  again  laughed 
loudly,  and  clapped  his  hands.  “ You  would 
scarcely  think,”  he  continued,  “ that  I drove  that 
little  pony  yesterday  heavily  laden  all  the  way  from 
Coruna.  We  arrived  at  Padron  at  two  o’clock  this 
morning ; but  we  are  nevertheless  both  willing  and 
able  to  undertake  a fresh  journey.  No  tenga  mted 


230 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XL 


'cuidao,  as  my  master  said,  no  one  ever  complains 
of  that  pony  or  of  me.”  In  this  kind  of  discourse 
we  proceeded  a considerable  way  through  a very 
picturesque  country,  until  we  reached  a beauti- 
ful village  at  the  skirt  of  a mountain.  “ This 
village,”  said  my  guide,  “ is  called  Los  Angeles, 
because  its  church  was  built  long  since  by  the 
angels;  they  placed  a beam  of  gold  beneath  it, 
which  they  brought  down  from  heaven,  and  which 
was  once  a rafter  of  God’s  own  house.  It  runs 
all  the  way  under  the  ground  from  hence  to  the 
cathedral  of  Compostella .” 

Passing  through  the  village,  which  he  likewise 
informed  me  possessed  baths,  and  was  much  vi- 
sited by  the  people  of  Santiago,  we  shaped  our 
course  to  the  north-west,  and  by  so  doing  doubled 
a mountain  which  rose  majestically  over  our 
heads,  its  top  crowned  with  bare  and  broken 
rocks,  whilst  on  our  right,  on  the  other  side  of  a 
spacious  valley,  was  a high  range,  connected 
with  the  mountains  to  the  northward  of  Saint 
James.  On  the  summit  of  this  range  rose  high 
embattled  towers,  which  my  guide  informed  me 
were  those  of  Altamira,  an  ancient  and  ruined 


Ch.  XI.] 


RUGGED  PATHS. 


231 


castle,  formerly  the  principal  residence  in  this 
province  of  the  counts  of  that  name.  Turning 
now  due  west,  we  were  soon  at  the  bottom  of  a 
steep  and  rugged  pass,  which  led  to  more  ele- 
vated regions.  The  ascent  cost  us  nearly  half 
an  hour,  and  the  difficulties  of  the  ground  were 
such,  that  I more  than  once  congratulated  myself 
on  having  left  my  own  horses  behind,  and  being 
mounted  on  the  gallant  little  pony  which,  accus- 
tomed to  such  paths,  scrambled  bravely  forward, 
and  eventually  brought  us  in  safety  to  the  top 
of  the  ascent. 

Here  we  entered  a Gallegan  cabin,  or  choza, 
for  the  purpose  of  refreshing  the  animal  and 
ourselves.  The  quadruped  ate  some  maize, 
whilst  we  two  bipeds  regaled  ourselves  on  some 
broa  and  aguardiente,  which  a woman  whom  we 
found  in  the  hut  placed  before  us.  I walked 
out  for  a few  minutes  to  observe  the  aspect  of 
the  country,  and  on  my  return  found  my  guide 
fast  asleep  on  the  bench  where  I had  left  him. 
He  sat  bolt  upright,  his  back  supported  against 
the  wall,  and  his  legs  pendulous,  within  three 
inches  of  the  ground,  being  too  short  to  reach 


232 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XI. 


it.  I remained  gazing  upon  him  for  at  least  five 
minutes,  whilst  he  enjoyed  slumbers  seemingly 
as  quiet  and  profound  as  those  of  death  itself. 
His  face  brought  powerfully  to  my  mind  some 
of  those  uncouth  visages  of  saints  and  abbots 
which  are  occasionally  seen  in  the  niches  of  the 
walls  of  ruined  convents.  There  was  not  the 
slightest  gleam  of  vitality  in  his  countenance, 
which  for  colour  and  rigidity  might  have  been  of 
stone,  and  which  was  as  rude  and  battered  as  one 
of  the  stone  heads  at  Icolmkill,  which  have  braved 
the  winds  of  twelve  hundred  years.  I continued 
gazing  on  his  face  till  I became  almost  alarmed, 
concluding  that  life  might  have  departed  from  its 
harassed  and  fatigued  tenement.  On  my  shaking 
him  rather  roughly  by  the  shoulder  he  slowly 
awoke,  opening  his  eyes  with  a stare  and  then 
closing  them  again.  For  a few  moments  he  was 
evidently  unconscious  of  where  he  was.  On  my 
shouting  to  him,  however,  and  inquiring  whether 
he  intended  to  sleep  all  day  instead  of  conduct- 
ing me  to  Finisterra,  he  dropped  upon  his  legs, 
snatched  up  his  hat,  which  lay  on  the  table, 
and  instantly  ran  out  of  the  door,  exclaiming, 


Ch.  XI.] 


THE  DESERTION. 


233 


“ Yes,  yes,  I remember — follow  me,  captain,  and 
I will  lead  you  to  Finisterra  in  no  time.”  I 
looked  after  him,  and  perceived  that  he  was  hur- 
rying at  a considerable  pace  in  the  direction  in 
which  we  had  hitherto  been  proceeding.  “ Stop,” 
said  I,  “ stop  ! will  you  leave  me  here  with  the 
pony  ? Stop,  we  have  not  paid  the  reckoning. 
Stop  !”  He,  however,  never  turned  his  head  for 
a moment,  and  in  less  than  a minute  was  out 
of  sight.  The  pony,  which  was  tied  to  a crib  at 
one  end  of  the  cabin,  began  now  to  neigh  ter- 
rifically, to  plunge,  and  to  erect  its  tail  and  mane 
in  a most  singular  manner.  It  tore  and  strained 
at  the  halter  till  I was  apprehensive  that  stran- 
gulation would  ensue.  “ Woman,”  I exclaimed, 
“ where  are  you,  and  what  is  the  meaning  of  all 
this  ?”  But  the  hostess  had  likewise  disappeared, 
and  though  I ran  about  the  choza,  shouting 
myself  hoarse,  no  answer  was  returned.  The 
pony  still  continued  to  scream  and  to  strain  at 
the  halter  more  violently  than  ever.  “ Am  I 
beset  with  lunatics  ?”  I cried,  and  flinging  down 
a peseta  on  the  table,  unloosed  the  halter,  and 
attempted  to  introduce  the  bit  into  the  mouth 


234 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XI. 


of  the  animal.  This,  however,  I found  impos- 
sible to  effect.  Released  from  the  halter,  the 
pony  made  at  once  for  the  door,  in  spite  of  all 
the  efforts  which  I could  make  to  detain  it. 
“ If  you  abandon  me,”  said  I,  “ I am  in  a pretty 
situation  ; but  there  is  a remedy  for  every  thing  !” 
with  which  words  I sprang  into  the  saddle,  and 
in  a moment  more  the  creature  was  bearing  me 
at  a rapid  gallop  in  the  direction,  as  I supposed, 
of  Finisterra.  My  position,  however  diverting 
to  the  reader,  was  rather  critical  to  myself.  I 
was  on  the  back  of  a spirited  animal,  over  which 
I had  no  control,  dashing  along  a dangerous  and 
unknown  path.  I could  not  discover  the  slightest 
vestige  of  my  guide,  nor  did  I pass  any  one 
from  whom  I could  derive  any  information.  In- 
deed, the  speed  of  the  animal  was  so  great,  that 
even  in  the  event  of  my  meeting  or  overtaking" 
a passenger,  I could  scarcely  have  hoped  to 
exchange  a word  with  him.  “ Is  the  pony 
trained  to  this  work  ?”  said  I mentally.  “ Is  he 
carrying  me  to  some  den  of  banditti,  where  my 
throat  will  be  cut,  or  does  he  follow  his  master 
by  instinct?”  Both  of  these  suspicions  I how- 


Ch.  XL] 


THE  PONY. 


235 


ever  soon  abandoned ; the  pony’s  speed  relaxed, 
he  appeared  to  have  lost  the  road.  He  looked 
about  uneasily  : at  last,  coming  to  a sandy  spot, 
he  put  his  nostrils  to  the  ground,  and  then  sud- 
denly flung  himself  down,  and  wallowed  in  true 
pony  fashion.  I was  not  hurt,  and  instantly 
made  use  of  this  opportunity  to  slip  the  bit  into 
his  mouth,  which  previously  had  been  dangling 
beneath  his  neck ; I then  remounted  in  quest  of 
the  road. 

This  I soon  found,  and  continued  my  way  for 
a considerable  time.  The  path  lay  over  a moor, 
patched  with  heath  and  furze,  and  here  and 
there  strewn  with  large  stones,  or  rather  rocks. 
The  sun  had  risen  high  in  the  firmament,  and 
burned  fiercely.  I passed  several  people,  men 
and  women,  who  gazed  at  me  with  surprise, 
wondering,  probably,  what  a person  of  my  ap- 
pearance could  be  about  without  a guide  in  so 
strange  a place.  I inquired  of  two  females 
whom  I met  whether  they  had  seen  my  guide  ; 
but  they  either  did  not  or  would  not  understand 
me,  and  exchanging  a few  words  with  each  other, 
in  one  of  the  hundred  dialects  of  the  Gallegan, 


236 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XI. 


passed  on.  Having  crossed  the  moor,  I came 
rather  abruptly  upon  a convent,  overhanging  a 
deep  ravine,  at  the  bottom  of  which  brawled  a 
rapid  stream. 

It  was  a beautiful  and  picturesque  spot:  the 
sides  of  the  ravine  were  thickly  clothed  with 
wood,  and  on  the  other  side  a tall,  black  hill 
uplifted  itself.  The  edifice  was  large,  and  ap- 
parently deserted.  Passing  by  it,  I presently 
reached  a small  village,  as  deserted,  to  all  ap- 
pearance, as  the  convent,  for  I saw  not  a single 
individual,  nor  so  much  as  a dog  to  welcome 
me  with  his  bark.  I proceeded,  however,  until 
I reached  a fountain,  the  waters  of  which  gushed 
from  a stone  pillar  into  a trough.  Seated  upon 
this  last,  his  arms  folded,  and  his  eyes  fixed  upon 
the  neighbouring  mountain,  I beheld  a figure 
which  still  frequently  recurs  to  my  thoughts, 
especially  when  asleep  and  oppressed  by  the 
nightmare.  This  figure  was  my  runaway  guide. 

Myself.  — Good  day  to  you,  my  gentleman. 
The  weather  is  hot,  and  yonder  water  appears 
delicious.  I am  almost  tempted  to  dismount 
and  regale  myself  with  a slight  draught. 


Ch.  XI.] 


A DIALOGUE. 


257 


Guide . — Your  worship  can  do  no  better.  The 
day  is,  as  you  say,  hot ; you  can  do  no  better 
than  drink  a little  of  this  water.  I have  myself 
just  drunk.  I would  not,  however,  advise  you  to 
give  that  pony  any,  it  appears  heated  and  blown. 

Myself. — It  may  well  be  so.  I have  been 
galloping  at  least  two  leagues  in  pursuit  of  a 
fellow  who  engaged  to  guide  me  to  Finisterra, 
but  who  deserted  me  in  a most  singular  manner, 
so  much  so,  that  I almost  believe  him  to  be  a 
thief,  and  no  true  man.  You  do  not  happen  to 
have  seen  him  ? 

Guide. — What  kind  of  a man  might  he  be  ? 

Myself. — A short,  thick  fellow,  very  much  like 
yourself,  with  a hump  upon  his  back,  and,  excuse 
me,  of  a very  ill-favoured  countenance. 

Guide . — Ha,  ha ! I know  him.  He  ran  with 
me  to  this  fountain,  where  he  has  just  left  me. 
That  man,  Sir  Cavalier,  is  no  thief.  If  he  is 
any  thing  at  all,  he  is  a Nuveiro, — a fellow  who 
rides  upon  the  clouds,  and  is  occasionally 
whisked  away  by  a gust  of  wind.  Should  you 
ever  travel  with  that  man  again,  never  allow  him 
more  than  one  glass  of  anise  at  a time,  or  he 


238 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XI. 


will  infallibly  mount  into  the  clouds  and  leave 
you,  and  then  he  will  ride  and  run  till  he  comes 
to  a water  brook,  or  knocks  his  head  against  a 
fountain— then  one  draught,  and  he  is  himself 
again.  So  you  are  going  to  Finisterra,  Sir  Ca- 
valier. Now  it  is  singular  enough,  that  a cavalier 
much  of  your  appearance  engaged  me  to  con- 
duct him  there  this  morning,  I however  lost  him 
on  the  way.  So  it  appears  to  me  our  best  plan 
to  travel  together  until  you  find  your  own  guide 
and  I find  my  own  master. 

It  might  be  about  two  o’clock  in  the  afternoon, 
that  we  reached  a long  and  ruinous  bridge, 
seemingly  of  great  antiquity,  and  which,  as  I 
was  informed  by  my  guide,  was  called  the  bridge 
of  Don  Alonzo.  It  crossed  a species  of  creek, 
or  rather  frith,  for  the  sea  was  at  no  considerable 
distance,  and  the  small  town  of  Noyo  lay  at  our 
right.  “ When  we  have  crossed  that  bridge, 
captain,”  said  my  guide,  “ we  shall  be  in  an  un- 
known country,  for  I have  never  been  farther 
than  Noyo,  and  as  for  Finisterra,  so  far  from 
having  been  there,  I never  heard  of  such  a place  ; 
and  though  I have  inquired  of  two  or  three 


Ch.  XI.] 


UNPLEASANT  SITUATION. 


239 


people  since  we  have  been  upon  this  expedition, 
they  know  as  little  about  it  as  I do.  Taking 
all  things,  however,  into  consideration,  it  appears 
to  me  that  the  best  thing  we  can  do  is  to  push 
forward  to  Corcuvion,  which  is  five  mad  leagues 
from  hence,  and  which  we  may  perhaps  reach 
ere  nightfall,  if  we  can  find  the  way  or  get  any 
one  to  direct  us ; for,  as  I told  you  before,  1 
know  nothing  about  it.”  “ To  fine  hands  have 
I confided  myself,”  said  I : “ however,  we  had 
best,  as  you  say,  push  forward  to  Corcuvion, 
where,  peradventure,  we  may  hear  something  of 
Finisterra,  and  find  a guide  to  conduct  us.” 
Whereupon  with  a hop,  skip,  and  a jump,  he 
again  set  forward  at  a rapid  pace,  stopping  occa- 
sionally at  a choza,  for  the  purpose,  I suppose,  of 
making  inquiries,  though  I understood  scarcely 
any  thing  of  the  jargon  in  which  he  addressed 
the  people,  and  in  which  they  answered  him. 

We  were  soon  in  an  extremely  wild  and  hilly 
country,  scrambling  up  and  down  ravines,  wading 
brooks,  and  scratching  our  hands  and  faces  with 
brambles,  on  which  grew  a plentiful  crop  of  wild 
mulberries,  to  gather  some  of  which  we  occa- 


240 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XI. 


sionally  made  a stop.  Owing  to  the  roughness 
of  the  way  we  made  no  great  progress.  The 
pony  followed  close  at  the  back  of  the  guide, 
so  near,  indeed,  that  its  nose  almost  touched  his 
shoulder.  The  country  grew  wilder  and  wilder, 
and  since  we  had  passed  a water-mill,  we  had 
lost  all  trace  of  human  habitation.  The  mill  stood 
at  the  bottom  of  a valley  shaded  by  large  trees,  ’ 
and  its  wheels  were  turning  with  a dismal  and 
^nonotonous  noise.  “ Do  you  think  we  shall 
reach  Corcuvion  to-night?”  said  I to  the  guide, 
as  we  emerged  from  this  valley  to  a savage  moor, 
which  appeared  of  almost  boundless  extent. 

Guide . — I do  not,  I do  not.  We  shall  in  no 
manner  reach  Corcuvion  to-night,  and  I by  no 
means  like  the  appearance  of  this  moor.  The 
sun  is  rapidly  sinking,  and  then,  if  there  come 
on  a haze,  we  shall  meet  the  Estadea. 

Myself \ — What  do  you  mean  by  the  Estadea? 

Guide . — What  do  I mean  by  the  Estadea?  My 
master  asks  me  what  I mean  by  the  Estadinha*. 
I have  met  the  Estadinha  but  once,  and  it  was 

* Inha , when  affixed  to  words,  serves  as  a diminutive.  It  h 
much  in  use  amongst  the  Gallegana. 


Ch.  XI.] 


THE  ESTADEA. 


241 


upon  a moor  something  like  this.  I was  in  com- 
pany with  several  women,  and  a thick  haze  came 
on,  and  suddenly  a thousand  lights  shone  above 
our  heads  in  the  haze,  and  there  was  a wild  cry, 
and  the  women  fell  to  the  ground  screaming  Es- 
tadea ! Estadea ! and  I myself  fell  to  the  ground 
crying  out  Estadinha  ! The  Estadea  are  the  spi- 
rits of  the  dead  which  ride  upon  the  haze,  bear- 
ing candles  in  their  hands.  I tell  you  frankly,  my 
master,  that  if  we  meet  the  assembly  of  the  souls, 
I shall  leave  you  at  once,  and  then  I shall  run 
and  run  till  I drown  myself  in  the  sea,  somewhere 
about  Muros.  We  shall  not  reach  Corcuvion  this 
night ; my  only  hope  is  that  we  may  find  some 
choza  upon  these  moors,  where  we  may  hide  our 
heads  from  the  Estadinha.” 

The  night  overtook  us  ere  we  had  traversed  the 
moor ; there  was,  however,  no  haze,  to  the  great 
joy  of  my  guide,  and  a corner  of  the  moon  par- 
tially illumined  our  steps.  Our  situation,  how- 
ever, was  dreary  enough : we  were  upon  the 
wildest  heath  of  the  wildest  province  of  Spain, 
ignorant  of  our  way,  and  directing  our  course  we 
scarcely  knew  whither,  for  my  guide  repeatedly 


VOL.  II. 


M 


242 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XL 


declared  to  me,  that  he  did  not  believe  that  such 
a place  as  Finisterra  existed,  or  if  it  did  exist,  it 
was  some  bleak  mountain  pointed  out  in  a map. 
When  I reflected  on  the  character  of  this  guide, 
I derived  but  little  comfort  or  encouragement : he 
was  at  best  evidently  half  witted,  and  was  by  his 
own  confession  occasionally  seized  with  paroxysms 
which  differed  from  madness  in  no  essential  re- 
spect ; his  wild  escapade  in  the  morning  of  nearly 
three  leagues,  without  any  apparent  cause,  and 
lastly  his  superstitious  and  frantic  fears  of  meet- 
ing the  souls  of  the  dead  upon  this  heath,  in 
which  event  he  intended,  as  he  himself  said,  to 
desert  me  and  make  for  the  sea,  operated  rather 
powerfully  upon  my  nerves.  I likewise  considered 
that  it  was  quite  possible  that  we  might  be  in  the 
route  neither  of  Finisterra  nor  Corcuvion,  and  I 
therefore  determined  to  enter  the  first  cabin  at 
which  we  should  arrive,  in  preference  to  running 
the  risk  of  breaking  our  necks  by  tumbling  down 
some  pit  or  precipice.  No  cabin,  however,  ap- 
peared in  sight : the  moor  seemed  interminable, 
and  we  wandered  on  until  the  moon  disappeared, 
and  we  were  left  in  almost  total  darkness. 


Ch.  XI.] 


BENIGHTED. 


243 


At  length  we  arrived  at  the  foot  of  a steep  as- 
cent, up  which  a rough  and  broken  pathway  ap- 
peared to  lead.  “ Can  this  be  our  way  ?”  said  I 
to  the  guide. 

“ There  appears  to  be  no  other  for  us,  captain,” 
replied  the  man ; “ let  us  ascend  it  by  all  means, 
and  when  we  are  at  the  top,  if  the  sea  be  in  the 
neighbourhood  we  shall  see  it.” 

I then  dismounted,  for  to  ride  up  such  a pass 
in  such  darkness  would  have  been  madness.  We 
clambered  up  in  a line,  first  the  guide,  next  the 
pony,  with  his  nose  as  usual  on  his  master’s 
shoulder,  of  whom  he  seemed  passionately  fond, 
and  I bringing  up  the  rear,  with  my  left  hand 
grasping  the  animal’s  tail.  We  had  many  a 
stumble,  and  more  than  one  fall : once,  indeed, 
we  were  all  rolling  down  the  side  of  the  hill  to- 
gether. In  about  twenty  minutes  we  reached  the 
summit,  and  looked  around  us,  but  no  sea  was 
visible : a black  moor,  indistinctly  seen,  seemed 
to  spread  on  every  side. 

“ We  shall  have  to  take  up  our  quarters  here 
till  morning,”  said  I. 

Suddenly  my  guide  seized  me  by  the  hand  : 


M 2 


244 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XI. 


“ There  is  lu me,  Senhor,”  said  he,  “ there  is 
lume.”  I looked  in  the  direction  in  which  he 
pointed,  and,  after  straining  my  eyes  for  some 
time,  imagined  that  I perceived,  far  below  and 
at  some  distance,  a faint  glow.  “ That  is  lume,” 
shouted  the  guide,  “ and  it  proceeds  from  the 
chimney  of  a choza.” 

On  descending  the  eminence,  we  roamed  about 
for  a considerable  time,  until  we  at  last  found  our- 
selves in  the  midst  of  about  six  or  eight  black 
huts.  “ Knock  at  the  door  of  one  of  these,”  said 
I to  the  guide,  “ and  inquire  of  the  people  whether 
they  can  shelter  us  for  the  night.”  He  did  so,  and 
a man  presently  made  his  appearance,  bearing  in 
his  hand  a lighted  firebrand. 

u Can  you  shelter  a Cavalheiro  from  the  night 
and  the  Estadea?”  said  my  guide. 

“ From  both,  I thank  God,”  said  the  man,  who 
was  an  athletic  figure,  without  shoes  and  stock- 
ings, and  who,  upon  the  whole,  put  me  much  in 
mind  of  a Munster  peasant  from  the  bogs.  “ Pray 
enter,  gentlemen,  we  can  accommodate  you  both 
and  your  cavalgadura  besides.” 

We  entered  the  choza,  which  consisted  of  three 


Ch.  XL] 


THE  HUT. 


245 


compartments ; in  the  first  we  found  straw,  in  the 
second  cattle  and  ponies,  and  in  the  third  the 
family,  consisting  of  the  father  and  mother  of  the 
man  who  admitted  us,  and  his  wife  and  children. 

“ You  are  a Catalan,  sir  Cavalier,  and  are  go- 
ing to  your  countrymen  at  Corcuvion,”  said  the 
man  in  tolerable  Spanish.  “ Ah,  you  are  brave 
people,  you  Catalans,  and  fine  establishments  you 
have  on  the  Gallegan  shores ; pity  that  you  take 
all  the  money  out  of  the  country.” 

Now,  under  all  circumstances,  I had  not  the 
slightest  objection  to  pass  for  a Catalan ; and  I 
rather  rejoiced  that  these  wild  people  should  sup- 
pose that  I had  powerful  friends  and  countrymen 
in  the  neighbourhood  who  were,  perhaps,  expect- 
ing me.  I therefore  favoured  their  mistake,  and 
began  with  a harsh  Catalan  accent  to  talk  of  the 
fish  of  Galicia,  and  the  high  duties  on  salt.  The 
eye  of  my  guide  was  upon  me  for  an  instant,  with 
a singular  expression,  half  serious,  half  droll ; he 
however,  said  nothing,  but  slapped  his  thigh  as 
usual,  and  with  a spring  nearly  touched  the  roof  of 
the  cabin  with  his  grotesque  head.  Upon  inquiry, 
I discovered  that  we  were  still  two  long  leagues 


246 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XI. 


distant  from  Corcuvion,  and  that  the  road  lay 
over  moor  and  hill,  and  was  hard  to  find.  Our 
host  now  demanded  whether  we  were  hungry,  and 
upon  being  answered  in  the  affirmative,  produced 
about  a dozen  eggs  and  some  bacon.  Whilst 
our  supper  was  cooking,  a long  conversation  en- 
sued between  my  guide  and  the  family,  but  as  it 
was  carried  on  in  Gallegan,  I tried  in  vain  to  un- 
derstand it.  I believe,  however,  that  it  principally 
related  to  witches  and  witchcraft,  as  the  Estadea 
was  frequently  mentioned.  After  supper  I de- 
manded where  I could  rest : whereupon  the  host 
pointed  to  a trap-door  in  the  roof,  saying  that 
above  there  was  a loft  where  I could  sleep  by 
myself,  and  have  clean  straw.  For  curiosity’s 
sake,  I asked  whether  there  was  such  a thing  as  a 
bed  in  the  cabin. 

“ No,”  replied  the  man  ; “ nor  nearer  than  Cor- 
cuvion.  I never  entered  one  in  my  life,  nor  any 
one  of  my  family : we  sleep  around  the  hearth,  or 
among  the  straw  with  the  cattle.” 

I was  too  old  a traveller  to  complain,  but  forth- 
with ascended  by  a ladder  into  a species  of  loft, 
tolerably  large  and  nearly  empty,  where  I placed 


Ch.  XL]  THE  TRAVELLER’S  PILLOW.  247 

my  cloak  beneath  my  head,  and  lay  down  on  the 
boards,  which  I preferred  to  the  straw,  for  more 
reasons  than  one.  I heard  the  people  below  talk- 
ing in  Gallegan  for  a considerable  time,  and  could 
see  the  gleams  of  the  fire  through  the  interstices 
of  the  floor.  The  voices,  however,  gradually  died 
away,  the  fire  sank  low  and  could  no  longer  be 
distinguished.  I dozed,  started,  dozed  again,  and 
dropped  finally  into  a profound  sleep,  from  which 
I was  only  roused  by  the  crowing  of  the  second 
cock. 


CHAPTER  XII. 


AUTUMNAL  MORNING.  — THE  WORLD’S  END.  — CORCUVION.  — 

DUYO. — THE  CAPE.— A WHALE. — THE  OUTER  BAY THE  ARREST. 

— THE  FISHER-MAGISTRATE.  — CALROS  RE Y,  — HARD  OF  BELIEF. 

—WHERE  IS  YOUR  PASSPORT?  — THE  BEACH A MIGHTY  LIBERAL. 

/ 

THE  HANDMAID. THE  GRAND  BAINTHAM. ECCENTRIC  BOOK. 

■ — HOSPITALITY. 

It  was  a beautiful  autumnal  morning  when  we  left 
the  choza  and  pursued  our  way  to  Corcuvion.  I 
satisfied  our  host  by  presenting  him  with  a couple 
of  pesetas,  and  he  requested  as  a favour,  that  if  on 
our  return  we  passed  that  way,  and  were  overtaken 
by  the  night,  we  would  again  take  up  our  abode 
beneath  his  roof.  This  I promised,  at  the  same 
time  determining  to  do  my  best  to  guard  against 
the  contingency ; as  sleeping  in  the  loft  of  a Gal- 
legan  hut,  though  preferable  to  passing  the  night 
on  a moor  or  mountain,  is  any  thing  but  desir- 
able. 

So  we  again  started  at  a rapid  pace  along 
rough  bridle-ways  and  footpaths,  amidst  furze 
and  brushwood.  In  about  an  hour  we  obtained 


THE  WORLD’S  END. 


249 


Ch.  XII.] 

a view  of  the  sea,  and  directed  by  a lad,  whom  we 
found  on  the  moor  employed  in  tending  a few 
miserable  sheep,  we  bent  our  course  to  the  north- 
west, and  at  length  reached  the  brow  of  an 
eminence,  where  we  stopped  for  some  time  to  sur- 
vey the  prospect  which  opened  before  us. 

It  was  not  without  reason  that  the  Latins 
gave  the  name  of  Finisterrae  to  this  district. 
We  had  arrived  exactly  at  such  a place  as  in  my 
boyhood  I had  pictured  to  myself  as  the  termin- 
ation of  the  world,  beyond  which  there  was  a wild 
sea,  or  abyss,  or  chaos.  I now  saw  far  before 
me  an  immense  ocean,  and  below  me  a long  and 
irregular  line  of  lofty  and  precipitous  coast.  Cer- 
tainly in  the  whole  world  there  is  no  bolder  coast 
than  the  Gallegan  shore,  from  the  debouchement 
of  the  Minho  to  Cape  Finisterra.  It  consists 
of  a granite  wall  of  savage  mountains,  for  the 
most  part  serrated  at  the  top,  and  occasionally 
broken,  where  bays  and  firths  like  those  of  Vigo 
and  Pontevedra  intervene,  running  deep  into  the 
land.  These  bays  and  firths  are  invariably  of  an 
immense  depth,  and  sufficiently  capacious  to  shel- 
ter the  navies  of  the  proudest  maritime  nations. 


m 3 


250 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XII. 


There  is  an  air  of  stern  and  savage  grandeur 
in  every  thing  around,  which  strongly  captivates 
the  imagination.  This  savage  coast  is  the  first 
glimpse  of  Spain  which  the  voyager  from  the  north 
catches,  or  he  who  has  ploughed  his  way  across 
the  wide  Atlantic  : and  well  does  it  seem  to  real- 
ize all  his  visions  of  this  strange  land.  “Yes,” 
he  exclaims,  “ this  is  indeed  Spain — stem  flinty 
Spain— land  emblematic  of  those  spirits  to  which 
she  has  given  birth.  From  what  land  but  that 
before  me  could  have  proceeded  those  portentous 
beings  who  astounded  the  Old  World  and  filled 
the  New  with  horror  and  blood : Alba  and  Philip, 
Cortez  and  Pizarro : stern  colossal  spectres 
looming  through  the  gloom  of  bygone  years,  like 
yonder  granite  mountains  through  the  haze,  upon 
the  eye  of  the  mariner.  Yes,  yonder  is  indeed 
Spain ; flinty,  indomitable  Spain ; land  emblematic 
of  its  sons  ! ” 

As  for  myself,  when  I viewed  that  wide  ocean 
and  its  savage  shore,  I cried,  “ Such  is  the  grave, 
and  such  are  its  terrific  sides ; those  moors  and 
wilds,  over  which  I have  passed,  are  the  rough 
and  dreary  journey  of  life.  Cheered  with  hope, 


Ch.  XII.] 


CORCUVION. 


251 


we  struggle  along  through  all  the  difficulties  of 
moor,  bog,  and  mountain,  to  arrive  at — what?  The 
grave  and  its  dreary  sides.  Oh,  may  hope  not  de- 
sert us  in  the  last  hour : hope  in  the  Redeemer 
and  in  God  !” 

We  descended  from  the  eminence,  and  again 
lost  sight  of  the  sea  amidst  ravines  and  dingles, 
amongst  which  patches  of  pine  were  occasionally 
seen.  Continuing  to  descend,  we  at  last  came, 
not  to  the  sea,  but  to  the  extremity  of  a long  nar- 
row firth,  where  stood  a village  or  hamlet ; whilst 
at  a small  distance,  on  the  western  side  of  the 
firth,  appeared  one  considerably  larger,  which 
was  indeed  almost  entitled  to  the  appellation  of 
town.  This  last  was  Corcuvion;  the  first,  if  I 
forget  not,  was  called  Ria  de  Silla.  We  hastened 
on  to  Corcuvion,  where  I bade  my  guide  make 
inquiries  respecting  Finisterra.  He  entered  the 
door  of  a wine-house,  from  which  proceeded  much 
noise  and  vociferation,  and  presently  returned,  in- 
forming me  that  the  village  of  Finisterra  was  dis- 
tant about  a league  and  a half.  A man,  evidently 
in  a state  of  intoxication,  followed  him  to  the  door : 


252 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XII. 


“ Are  you  bound  for  Finisterra,  Cavalheiros  ? ” he 
shouted. 

“ Yes,  my  friend,”  I replied,  “ we  are  going 
thither.” 

“ Then  you  are  going  amongst  a flock  of  drunk- 
ards, (fato  de  borrachos ,)”  he  answered.  “ Take 
care  that  they  do  not  play  you  a trick.” 

We  passed  on,  and  striking  across  a sandy  pe- 
ninsula at  the  back  of  the  town,  soon  reached  the 
shore  of  an  immense  bay,  the  north- westernmost 
end  of  which  was  formed  by  the  far-famed  cape  of 
Finisterra,  which  we  now  saw  before  us  stretching 
far  into  the  sea. 

Along  a beach  of  dazzling  white  sand,  we 
advanced  towards  the  cape,  the  bourne  of  our 
journey.  The  sun  was  shining  brightly,  and  every 
object  was  illumined  by  his  beams.  The  sea  lay 
before  us  like  a vast  mirror,  and  the  waves  which 
broke  upon  the  shore  were  so  tiny  as  scarcely  to 
produce  a murmur.  On  we  sped  along  the  deep 
winding  bay,  overhung  by  gigantic  hills  and  moun- 
tains. Strange  recollections  began  to  throng  upon 
my  mind.  It  was  upon  this  beach  that,  according 


Ch.  XII.] 


DUYO. 


253 


to  the  tradition  of  all  ancient  Christendom,  Saint 
James,  the  patron  saint  of  Spain,  preached  the 
Gospel  to  the  heathen  Spaniards.  Upon  this 
beach  had  once  stood  an  immense  commercial 
city,  the  proudest  in  all  Spain.  This  now  deso- 
late bay  had  once  resounded  with  the  voices  of 
myriads,  when  the  keels  and  commerce  of  all  the 
then  known  world  were  wafted  to  Duyo. 

“ What  is  the  name  of  this  village  ? ” said  I to 
a woman,  as  we  passed  by  five  or  six  ruinous 
houses  at  the  bend  of  the  bay,  ere  we  entered 
upon  the  peninsula  of  Finisterra. 

“ This  is  no  village,”  said  the  Gallegan,  “ this 
is  no  village,  Sir  Cavalier,  this  is  a city,  this  is 
Duyo.” 

So  much  for  the  glory  of  the  world  ! These 
huts  were  all  that  the  roaring  sea  and  the  tooth  of 
time  had  left  of  Duyo,  the  great  city ! Onward 
now  to  Finisterra. 

It  was  midday  when  we  reached  the  village  of 
Finisterra,  consisting  of  about  one  hundred  houses, 
and  built  on  the  southern  side  of  the  peninsula, 
just  before  it  rises  into  the  huge  bluff  head  which 
is  called  the  Cape.  We  sought  in  vain  for  an 


254 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XII. 


inn  or  venta,  where  we  might  stable  our  beast; 
at  one  moment  we  thought  that  we  had  found 
one,  and  had  even  tied  the  animal  to  the  manger. 
Upon  our  going  out,  however,  he  was  instantly 
untied  and  driven  forth  into  the  street.  The  few 
people  whom  we  saw  appeared  to  gaze  upon  us  in 
a singular  manner.  We,  however,  took  little 
notice  of  these  circumstances,  and  proceeded 
along  the  straggling  street  until  we  found  shelter 
in  the  house  of  a Castilian  shopkeeper,  whom 
some  chance  had  brought  to  this  corner  of  Gali- 
cia,— this  end  of  the  world.  Our  first  care  was  to 
feed  the  animal,  who  now  began  to  exhibit  con- 
siderable symptoms  of  fatigue.  We  then  re- 
quested some  refreshment  for  ourselves ; and  in 
about  an  hour  a tolerably  savoury  fish,  weighing 
about  three  pounds,  and  fresh  from  the  bay,  was 
prepared  for  us  by  an  old  woman  who  appeared 
to  officiate  as  housekeeper.  Having  finished  our 
meal,  I and  my  uncouth  companion  went  forth 
and  prepared  to  ascend  the  mountain. 

We  stopped  to  examine  a small  dismantled 
fort  or  battery  facing  the  bay ; and  whilst  engaged 
in  this  examination,  it  more  than  once  occurred 


Ch.  XII.] 


THE  CAPE. 


255 


to  me  that  we  were  ourselves  the  objects  of 
scrutiny  and  investigation : indeed  I caught  a 
glimpse  of  more  than  one  countenance  peering 
upon  us  through  the  holes  and  chasms  of  the 
walls.  We  now  commenced  ascending  Finis- 
terra;  and  making  numerous  and  long  detours, 
we  wound  our  way  up  its  flinty  sides.  The  sun 
had  reached  the  top  of  heaven,  whence  he 
showered  upon  us  perpendicularly  his  brightest 
and  fiercest  rays.  My  boots  were  torn,  my  feet 
cut,  and  the  perspiration  streamed  from  my 
brow.  To  my  guide,  however,  the  ascent  ap- 
peared to  be  neither  toilsome  lior  difficult.  The 
heat  of  the  day  for  him  had  no  terrors,  no  mois- 
ture was  wrung  from  his  tanned  countenance  ; he 
drew  not  one  short  breath ; and  hopped  upon  the 
stones  and  rocks  with  all  the  provoking  agility  of 
a mountain  goat.  Before  we  had  accomplished 
one  half  of  the  ascent,  I felt  myself  quite  ex- 
hausted. I reeled  and  staggered.  “ Cheer  up, 
master  mine,  be  of  good  cheer,  and  have  no 
care,”  said  the  guide.  “ Yonder  I see  a wall  of 
stones ; lie  down  beneath  it  in  the  shade.”  He 
put  his  long  and  strong  arm  round  my  waist,  and 


256 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XII. 


though  his  stature  compared  with  mine  was  that  of 
a dwarf,  he  supported  me,  as  if  I had  been  a 
child,  to  a rude  wall  which  seemed  to  traverse 
the  greatest  part  of  the  hill,  and  served  probably 
as  a kind  of  boundary.  It  was  difficult  to  find  a 
shady  spot : at  last  he  perceived  a small  chasm, 
perhaps  scooped  by  some  shepherd  as  a couch, 
in  which  to  enjoy  his  siesta.  In  this  he  laid  me 
gently  down,  and  taking  off  his  enormous  hat, 
commenced  fanning  me  with  great  assiduity.  By 
degrees  I revived,  and  after  having  rested  for  a 
considerable  time,  I again  attempted  the  ascent, 
which,  with  the  assistance  of  my  guide,  I at  length 
accomplished. 

We  were  now  standing  at  a great  altitude  be- 
tween two  bays  : the  wilderness  of  waters  before 
us.  Of  all  the  ten  thousand  barks  which  annually 
plough  those  seas  in  sight  of  that  old  cape,  not 
one  was  to  be  descried.  It  was  a blue  shiny 
waste,  broken  by  no  object  save  the  black  head 
of  a spermaceti  whale,  which  would  occasionally 
show  itself  at  the  top,  casting  up  thin  jets  of  brine. 
The  principal  bay,  that  of  Finisterra,  as  far  as 
the  entrance,  was  beautifully  variegated  by  an 


Ch.  XII.]  A WHALE. THE  OUTER  BAY. 


257 


immense  shoal  of  sardinhas,  on  whose  extreme 
skirts  the  monster  was  probably  feasting.  From 
the  northern  side  of  the  cape  we  looked  down 
upon  a smaller  bay,  the  shore  of  which  was  over- 
hung by  rocks  of  various  and  grotesque  shapes ; 
this  is  called  the  outer  bay,  or,  in  the  language  of 
the  country,  Praia  do  mar  de  fora : a fearful  place 
in  seasons  of  wind  and  tempest,  when  the  long 
swell  of  the  Atlantic  pouring  in,  is  broken  into 
surf  and  foam  by  the  sunken  rocks  with  which  it 
abounds.  Even  in  the  calmest  day  there  is  a 
rumbling  and  a hollow  roar  in  that  bay  which  fill 
the  heart  with  uneasy  sensations. 

On  all  sides  there  was  grandeur  and  sublimity. 
After  gazing  from  the  summit  of  the  cape  for  nearly 
an  hour  we  descended. 

On  reaching  the  house  where  we  had  taken  up 
our  temporary  habitation,  we  perceived  that  the 
portal  was  occupied  by  several  men,  some  of 
whom  were  reclining  on  the  floor  drinking  wine 
out  of  small  earthen  pans,  which  are  much  used 
in  this  part  of  Galicia.  With  a civil  salutation 
I passed  on,  and  ascended  the  staircase  to  the 
room  in  which  we  had  taken  our  repast.  Here 


258 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XII. 


there  was  a rude  and  dirty  bed,  on  which  I flung 
myself,  exhausted  with  fatigue.  I determined  to 
take  a little  repose,  and  in  the  evening  to  call  the 
people  of  the  place  together,  to  read  a few  chap- 
ters of  the  Scripture,  and  then  to  address  them 
with  a little  Christian  exhortation.  I was  soon 
asleep,  but  my  slumbers  were  by  no  means  tran- 
quil. I thought  I was  surrounded  with  difficulties 
of  various  kinds  amongst  rocks  and  ravines,  vainly 
endeavouring  to  extricate  myself ; uncouth  visages 
showed  themselves  amidst  the  trees  and  in  the 
hollows,  thrusting  out  cloven  tongues  and  utter- 
ing angry  cries.  I looked  around  for  my  guide, 
but  could  not  find  him ; methought,  however,  that 
I heard  his  voice  down  a deep  dingle.  He  ap- 
peared to  be  talking  of  me.  How  long  I might 
have  continued  in  these  wild  dreams  I know  not. 
I was  suddenly,  however,  seized  roughly  by  the 
shoulder  and  nearly  dragged  from  the  bed.  I 
looked  up  in  amazement,  and  by  the  light  of  the 
descending  sun  I beheld  hanging  over  me  a wild 
and  uncouth  figure ; it  was  that  of  an  elderly 
man,  built  as  strong  as  a giant,  with  much  beard 
and  whisker,  and  huge  bushy  eyebrows,  dressed 


Ch.  XII.] 


THE  ARREST. 


259 


in  the  habiliments  of  a fisherman ; in  his  hand 
was  a rusty  musket. 

Myself. — Who  are  you  and  what  do  you  want  ? 

Figure. — Who  I am  matters  but  little.  Get 
up  and  follow  me  ; it  is  you  I want. 

Myself. — By  what  authority  do  you  thus  pre- 
sume to  interfere  with  me  ? 

Figure. — By  the  authority  of  the  justicia  of 
Finisterra.  Follow  me  peaceably,  Calros,  or  it 
will  be  the  worse  for  you. 

“ Calros,”  said  I,  “ what  does  the  person  mean  ?” 
I thought  it,  however,  most  prudent  to  obey  his 
command,  and  followed  him  down  the  staircase. 
The  shop  and  the  portal  were  now  thronged  with 
the  inhabitants  of  Finisterra,  men,  women,  and 
children ; the  latter  for  the  most  part  in  a state  of 
nudity,  and  with  bodies  wet  and  dripping,  having 
been  probably  summoned  in  haste  from  their 
gambols  in  the  brine.  Through  this  crowd  the 
figure  whom  I have  attempted  to  describe  pushed 
his  way  with  an  air  of  authority. 

On  arriving  in  the  street,  he  laid  his  heavy 
hand  upon  my  arm,  not  roughly  however.  “ It 
is  Calros!  it  is  Calros!”  said  a hundred  voices; 


26  0 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XII. 


“ he  has  come  to  Finisterra  at  last,  and  the  jus- 
ticia  have  now  got  hold  of  him.”  Wondering  what 
all  this  could  mean,  I attended  my  strange  con- 
ductor down  the  street.  As  we  proceeded,  the 
crowd  increased  every  moment,  following  and 
vociferating.  Even  the  sick  were  brought  to  the 
doors  to  obtain  a view  of  what  was  going  forward 
and  a glance  at  the  redoubtable  Calros.  I was 
particularly  struck  by  the  eagerness  displayed  by 
one  man,  a cripple,  who,  in  spite  of  the  entreaties 
of  his  wife,  mixed  with  the  crowd,  and  having  lost 
his  crutch,  hopped  forward  on  one  leg,  exclaim- 
ing,— “ Car  radio  ! tambien  voy  yo  ! ” 

We  at  last  reached  a house  of  rather  larger 
size  than  the  rest ; my  guide  having  led  me  into 
a long  low  room,  placed  me  in  the  middle  of 
the  floor,  and  then  hurrying  to  the  door,  he  en- 
deavoured to  repulse  the  crowd  who  strove  to 
enter  with  us.  This  he  effected,  though  not  with- 
out considerable  difficulty,  being  once  or  twice 
compelled  to  have  recourse  to  the  butt  of  his 
musket,  to  drive  back  unauthorized  intruders.  I 
now  looked  round  the  room.  It  was  rather  scantily 
furnished : I could  see  nothing  but  some  tubs 


Ch.  XII.]  THE  FISHER-MAGISTRATE. 


261 


and  barrels,  the  mast  of  a boat,  and  a sail  or  two. 
Seated  upon  the  tubs  were  three  or  four  men 
coarsely  dressed,  like  fishermen  or  shipwrights. 
The  principal  personage  was  a surly  ill-tempered 
looking  fellow  of  about  thirty-five,  whom  even- 
tually I discovered  to  be  the  alcalde  of  Finisterra, 
and  lord  of  the  house  in  which  we  now  were. 
In  a corner  I caught  a glimpse  of  my  guide,  who 
was  evidently  in  durance,  two  stout  fishermen 
standing  before  him,  one  with  a musket  and  the 
other  with  a boat-hook.  After  I had  looked  about 
me  for  a minute,  the  alcalde,  giving  his  whiskers  a 
twist,  thus  addressed  me  : — 

“ Who  are  you,  where  is  your  passport,  and 
what  brings  you  to  Finisterra  ? ” 

Myself. — I am  an  Englishman.  Here  is  my 
passport,  and  I came  to  see  Finisterra. 

This  reply  seemed  to  discomfit  them  for  a mo- 
ment. They  looked  at  each  other,  then  at  my 
passport.  At  length  the  alcalde,  striking  it  with 
his  finger,  bellowed  forth : 

“ This  is  no  Spanish  passport ; it  appears  to  be 
written  in  French.” 


262 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XII. 


Myself. — I have  already  told  you  that  I am  a 
foreigner.  I of  course  carry  a foreign  passport. 

Alcalde . — Then  you  mean  to  assert  that  you 
are  not  Calros  Rey. 

Myself. — I never  heard  before  of  such  a king, 
nor  indeed  of  such  a name. 

Alcalde. — Hark  to  the  fellow : he  has  the  au- 
dacity to  say  that  he  has  never  heard  of  Calros 
the  pretender,  who  calls  himself  king. 

Myself— If  you  mean  by  Calros,  the  pretender 
Don  Carlos,  all  I can  reply  is,  that  you  can 
scarcely  be  serious.  You  might  as  well  assert 
that  yonder  poor  fellow,  my  guide,  whom  I see 
you  have  made  prisoner,  is  his  nephew,  the  in- 
fante Don  Sebastian. 

Alcalde.— See,  you  have  betrayed  yourself ; 
that  is  the  very  person  we  suppose  him  to  be. 

Myself. — It  is  true  that  they  are  both  hunch- 
backs. But  how  can  I be  like  Don  Carlos  ? I 
have  nothing  the  appearance  of  a Spaniard,  and 
am  nearly  a foot  taller  than  the  pretender. 

Alcalde. — That  makes  no  difference  ; you  of 
course  carry  many  waistcoats  about  you,  by 


Ch.  XII.] 


CALROS  REY. 


263 


means  of  which  you  disguise  yourself,  and  appear 
tall  or  low  according  to  your  pleasure. 

This  last  was  so  conclusive  an  argument  that  I 
had  of  course  nothing  to  reply  to  it.  The  alcalde 
looked  around  him  in  triumph,  as  if  he  had  made 
some  notable  discovery.  “ Yes,  it  is  Calros ; it 
is  Calros,”  said  the  crowd  at  the  door.  “ It  will 
be  as  well  to  have  these  men  shot  instantly,”  con- 
tinued the  alcalde ; “ if  they  are  not  the  two  pre- 
tenders, they  are  at  any  rate  two  of  the  factious.” 

“ I am  by  no  means  certain  that  they  are  either 
one  or  the  other,”  said  a gruff  voice. 

The  justicia  of  Finisterra  turned  their  eyes  in 
the  direction  from  which  these  words  proceeded, 
and  so  did  I.  Our  glances  rested  upon  the  figure 
who  held  watch  at  the  door.  He  had  planted  the 
barrel  of  his  musket  on  the  floor,  and  was  now 
leaning  his  chin  against  the  butt. 

“ I am  by  no  means  certain  that  they  are  either 
one  or  the  other,”  repeated  he,  advancing  forward. 
“ I have  been  examining  this  man,”  pointing  to 
myself,  “and  listening  whilst  he  spoke,  and  it 
appears  to  me  that  after  all  he  may  prove  an 
Englishman ; he  has  their  very  look  and  voice. 


264  THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN.  [Ch.  XII. 

Who  knows  the  English  better  than  Antonio  de 
la  Trava,  and  who  has  a better  right  ? Has  he 
not  sailed  in  their  ships ; has  he  not  eaten  their 
biscuit;  and  did  he  not  stand  by  Nelson  when 
he  was  shot  dead  ? ” 

Here  the  alcalde  became  violently  incensed. 
“ He  is  no  more  an  Englishman  than  yourself,” 
he  exclaimed ; “ if  he  were  an  Englishman  would 
he  have  come  in  this  manner,  skulking  across  the 
land  ? Not  so  I trow.  He  would  have  come  in 
a ship,  recommended  to  some  of  us,  or  to  the 
Catalans.  He  would  have  come  to  trade,  to  buy; 
but  nobody  knows  him  in  Finisterra,  nor  does  he 
know  anybody : and  the  first  thing,  moreover, 
that  he  does  when  he  reaches  this  place  is  to  in- 
spect the  fort,  and  to  ascend  the  mountain, 
where,  no  doubt,  he  has  been  marking  out  a 
camp.  What  brings  him  to  Finisterra  if  he  is 
neither  Calros  nor  a bribon  of  a faccioso  ? ” 

I felt  that  there  was  a good  deal  of  justice  in 
some  of  these  remarks,  and  I was  aware,  for  the 
first  time,  that  I had,  indeed,  committed  a great 
imprudence  in  coming  to  this  wild  place,  and 
among  these  barbarous  people,  without  being 


Ch.  XII.] 


HARD  OF  BELIEF. 


265 


able  to  assign  any  motive  which  could  appear 
at  all  valid  in  their  eyes.  I endeavoured  to 
convince  the  alcalde  that  I had  come  across  the 
country  for  the  purpose  of  making  myself  ac- 
quainted with  the  many  remarkable  objects  which 
it  contained,  and  of  obtaining  information  respect- 
ing the  character  and  condition  of  the  inhabit- 
ants. He  could  understand  no  such  motives. 
“ What  did  you  ascend  the  mountain  for  ? ” 
“ To  see  prospects.”  66  Disparate  ! I have  lived 
at  Finisterra  forty  years  and  never  ascended 
that  mountain.  I would  not  do  it  in  a day  like 
this  for  two  ounces  of  gold.  You  went  to  take 
altitudes,  and  to  mark  out  a camp.”  I had, 
however,  a staunch  friend  in  old  Antonio,  who 
insisted,  from  his  knowledge  of  the  English,  that 
all  I had  said  might  very  possibly  be  true. 
“ The  English,”  said  he,  “ have  more  money 
than  they  know  what  to  do  with,  and  on  that 
account  they  wander  all  over  the  world,  paying 
dearly  for  what  no  other  people  care  a groat  for.” 
He  then  proceeded,  notwithstanding  the  frowns 
of  the  alcalde,  to  examine  me  in  the  English 


VOL.  II. 


N 


266 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XII. 


language.  His  own  entire  knowledge  of  this 
tongue  was  confined  to  two  words — knife  and 
fork , which  words  I rendered  into  Spanish  by 
their  equivalents,  and  was  forthwith  pronounced 
an  Englishman  by  the  old  fellow,  who,  brandish- 
ing his  musket,  exclaimed  : — 

“ This  man  is  not  Calros ; he  is  what  he  de- 
clares himself  to  be,  an  Englishman,  and  who- 
soever seeks  to  injure  him,  shall  have  to  do 
with  Antonio  de  la  Trava  el  valiente  de  Finisterra.” 
No  person  sought  to  impugn  this  verdict,  and  it 
was  at  length  determined  that  I should  be  sent 
to  Corcuvion,  to  be  examined  by  the  alcalde 
mayor  of  the  district.  “ But,”  said  the  alcalde 
of  Finisterra,  “ what  is  to  be  done  with  the  other 
fellow?  He  at  least  is  no  Englishman.  Bring 
him  forward,  and  let  us  hear  what  he  has  to  say 
for  himself.  Now,  fellow,  who  are  you,  and  what 
is  your  master  ? ” 

Guide. — I am  Sebastianillo,  a poor  broken 
mariner  of  Padron,  and  my  master  for  the  pre- 
sent is  the  gentleman  whom  you  see,  the  most 
valiant  and  wealthy  of  all  the  English.  He  has 


Ch.  XII.] 


WHERE  IS  YOUR  PASSPORT  ? 


267 


two  ships  at  Vigo  laden  with  riches.  I told  you 
so  when  you  first  seized  me  up  there  in  our 
posada. 

Alcalde . — Where  is  your  passport  ? 

Guide . — I have  no  passport.  Who  would 
think  of  bringing  a passport  to  such  a place  as 
this,  where  I don’t  suppose  there  are  two  indi- 
viduals who  can  read  ? I have  no  passport ; my 
master’s  passport  of  course  includes  me. 

Alcalde . — It  does  not.  And  since  you  have 
no  passport,  and  have  confessed  that  your  name 
is  Sebastian,  you  shall  be  shot.  Antonio  de  la 
Trava,  do  you  and  the  musketeers  lead  this 
Sebastianillo  forth,  and  shoot  him  before  the 
door. 

Antonio  de  la  Trava.- — With  much  pleasure, 
Senor  Alcalde,  since  you  order  it.  With  respect 
to  this  fellow,  I shall  not  trouble  myself  to  in- 
terfere. He  at  least  is  no  Englishman.  He  has 
more  the  look  of  a wizard  or  nuveiro ; one  of 
those  devils  who  raise  storms  and  sink  launches. 
Moreover,  he  says  he  is  from  Padron,  and  those 
of  that  place  are  all  thieves  and  drunkards.  They 

N 2 


268 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIL 


once  played  me  a trick,  and  I would  gladly  be 
at  the  shooting  of  the  whole  pueblo. 

I now  interfered,  and  said  that  if  they  shot 
the  guide  they  must  shoot  me  too  ; expatiating 
at  the  same  time  on  the  cruelty  and  barbarity  of 
taking  away  the  life  of  a poor  unfortunate  fellow 
who,  as  might  be  seen  at  the  first  glance,  was 
only  half  witted;  adding,  moreover,  that  if  any 
person  was  guilty  in  this  case  it  was  myself,  as  the 
other  could  only  be  considered  in  the  light  of  a 
servant  acting  under  my  orders. 

“ The  safest  plan  after  all,”  said  the  alcalde, 
“ appears  to  be,  to  send  you  both  prisoners  to 
Corcuvion,  where  the  head  alcalde  can  dispose 
of  you  as  he  thinks  proper.  You  must,  how- 
ever, pay  for  your  escort;  for  it  is  not  to  be 
supposed  that  the  housekeepers  of  Finisterra 
have  nothing  else  to  do  than  to  ramble  about 
the  country  with  every  chance  fellow  who  finds 
his  way  to  this  town.”  “ As  for  that  matter,” 
said  Antonio,  “ I will  take  charge  of  them  both. 
1 am  the  valiente  of  Finisterra,  and  fear  no  two 
men  living.  Moreover,  I am  sure  that  the  cap- 


Ch.  xn.] 


THE  BEACH. 


269 


tain  here  will  make  it  worth  my  while,  else  he  is 
no  Englishman.  Therefore  let  us  be  quick  and 
set  out  for  Corcuvion  at  once,  as  it  is  getting 
late.  First  of  all,  however,  captain,  I must 
search  you  and  your  baggage.  You  have  no 
arms,  of  course  ? But  it  is  best  to  make  all 
sure.” 

Long  ere  it  was  dark  I found  myself  again  on 
the  pony,  in  company  with  my  guide,  wending 
our  way  along  the  beach  in  the  direction  of 
Corcuvion.  Antonio  de  la  Trava  tramped  heavily 
on  before,  his  musket  on  his  shoulder. 

Myself— Are  you  not  afraid,  Antonio,  to  be 
thus  alone  with  two  prisoners,  one  of  whom  is 
on  horseback  ? If  we  were  to  try,  I think  we 
could  overpower  you. 

Antonio  de  la  Trava. — I am  the  valiente  de 
Finisterra,  and  I fear  no  odds. 

Myself— Why  do  you  call  yourself  the  va- 
liente of  Finisterra  ? 

Antonio  de  la  Trava. — The  whole  district  call 
me  so.  When  the  French  came  to  Finisterra, 
and  demolished  the  fort,  three  perished  by  my 
hand.  I stood  on  the  mountain,  up  where  I saw 


270 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XII. 


you  scrambling  to-day.  I continued  firing  at 
the  enemy,  until  three  detached  themselves  in 
pursuit  of  me.  The  fools  ! two  perished  amongst 
the  rocks  by  the  fire  of  this  musket,  and  as  for 
the  third,  I beat  his  head  to  pieces  with  the 
stock.  It  is  on  that  account  that  they  call  me 
the  valiente  of  Finisterra. 

Myself. — How  came  you  to  serve  with  the 
English  fleet  ? I think  I heard  you  say  that 
you  were  present  when  Nelson  fell. 

Antonio  de  la  Trava. — I was  captured  by  your 
countrymen,  captain  ; and  as  I had  been  a sailor 
from  my  childhood,  they  were  glad  of  my  ser- 
vices. I was  nine  months  with  them,  and  as- 
sisted at  Trafalgar.  I saw  the  English  admiral 
die.  You  have  something  of  his  face,  and  your 
voice,  when  you  spoke,  sounded  in  my  ears  like 
his  own.  I love  the  English,  and  on  that  ac- 
count I saved  you.  Think  not  that  I would  toil 
along  these  sands  with  you  if  you  were  one  of 
my  own  countrymen.  Here  we  are  at  Duyo, 
captain.  Shall  we  refresh  ? 

We  did  refresh,  or  rather  Antonio  de  la  Trava 
refreshed,  swallowing  pan  after  pan  of  wine,  with 


Ch.  XII.] 


A MIGHTY  LIBERAL. 


*271 


a thirst  which  seemed  unquenchable.  “ That 
man  was  a greater  wizard  than  myself,”  whis- 
pered Sebastian,  my  guide,  “ who  told  us  that 
the  drunkards  of  Finisterra  would  play  us  a trick.” 
At  length  the  old  hero  of  the  Cape  slowly  rose, 
saying,  that  we  must  hasten  on  to  Corcuvion,  or 
the  night  would  overtake  us  by  the  way. 

“ What  kind  of  person  is  the  alcalde  to  whom 
you  are  conducting  me  ?”  said  I. 

u Oh,  very  different  from  him  of  Finisterra,” 
replied  Antonio.  “ This  is  a young  Senorito, 
lately  arrived  from  Madrid.  He  is  not  even  a 
Gallegan.  He  is  a mighty  liberal,  and  it  is  owing 
chiefly  to  his  orders  that  we  have  lately  been  so 
much  on  the  alert.  It  is  said  that  the  Carlists 
are  meditating  a descent  on  these  parts  of  Ga- 
licia. Let  them  only  come  to  Finisterra,  we  are 
liberals  there  to  a man,  and  the  old  valiente  is 
ready  to  play  the  same  part  as  in  the  time  of 
the  French.  But,  as  I was  telling  you  before, 
the  alcalde  to  whom  I am  conducting  you  is  a 
young  man,  and  very  learned,  and  if  he  thinks 
proper,  he  can  speak  English  to  you,  even  better 


27'2 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XI L 


than  myself,  notwithstanding  I was  a friend  of 
Nelson,  and  fought  by  his  side  at  Trafalgar.” 

It  was  dark  night  before  we  reached  Corcuvion. 
Antonio  again  stopped  to  refresh  at  a wine-shop, 
after  which  he  conducted  us  to  the  house  of  the 
alcalde.  His  steps  were  by  this  time  not  par- 
ticularly  steady,  and  on  arriving  at  the  gate  of 
the  house,  he  stumbled  over  the  threshold  and 
fell.  He  got  up  with  an  oath,  and  instantly 
commenced  thundering  at  the  door  with  the 
stock  of  his  musket.  “ Who  is  it  ? ” at  length 
demanded  a soft  female  voice  in  Gallegan. 
“ The  valiente  of  Finisterra,”  replied  Antonio  ; 
whereupon  the  gate  was  unlocked,  and  we  be- 
held before  us  a very  pretty  female  with  a 
candle  in  her  hand.  66  What  brings  you  here 
so  late,  Antonio?”  she  inquired.  “ I bring  two 
prisoners,  mi  pulida,”  replied  Antonio.  “ Ave 
Maria!”  she  exclaimed.  “ I hope  they  will  do 
no  harm.”  “ I will  answer  for  one,”  replied  the 
old  man ; “ but  as  for  the  other,  he  is  a nuveiro, 
and  has  sunk  more  ships  than  all  his  brethren  in 
Galicia.  “ But  be  not  afraid,  my  beauty,”  he 


Ch.  XII.] 


THE  HANDMAID. 


273 


continued,  as  the  female  made  the  sign  of  the 
cross  : “ first  lock  the  gate,  and  then  show  me 
the  way  to  the  alcalde.  I have  much  to  tell 
him.”  The  gate  was  locked,  and  bidding  us 
stay  below  in  the  court-yard,  Antonio  followed 
the  young  woman  up  a stone  stair,  whilst  we 
remained  in  darkness  below. 

After  the  lapse  of  about  a quarter  of  an  hour 
we  again  saw  the  candle  gleam  upon  the  stair- 
case, and  the  young  female  appeared.  Coming 
up  to  me,  she  advanced  the  candle  to  my  fea- 
tures, on  which  she  gazed  very  intently.  After 
a long  scrutiny  she  went  to  my  guide,  and  having 
surveyed  him  still  more  fixedly,  she  turned  to 
me,  and  said,  in  her  best  Spanish,  “ Senhor 
Cavalier,  I congratulate  you  on  your  servant. 
He  is  the  best  looking  mozo  in  all  Galicia. 
Vaya  ! if  he  had  but  a coat  to  his  back,  and 
did  not  go  barefoot,  I would  accept  him  at  once 
as  a novio ; but  I have  unfortunately  made  a 
vow  never  to  marry  a poor  man,  but  only  one 
who  has  got  a heavy  purse  and  can  buy  me  fine 
clothes.  So  you  are  a Carlist,  I suppose  ? Vaya  ! 
I do  not  like  you  the  worse  for  that.  But,  being 

n 3 


274 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XII. 


so,  how  went  you  to  Finisterra,  where  they  are 
all  Christinos  and  negros  ? Why  did  you  not 
go  to  my  village  ? None  would  have  meddled 
with  you  there.  Those  of  my  village  are  of  a 
different  stamp  to  the  drunkards  of  Finisterra. 
Those  of  my  village  never  interfere  with  honest 
people.  Vaya ! how  I hate  that  drunkard  of 
Finisterra  who  brought  you,  he  is  so  old  and 
ugly ; were  it  not  for  the  love  which  I bear 
to  the  Senhor  Alcalde,  I would  at  once  unlock 
the  gate  and  bid  you  go  forth,  you  and  your 
servant,  the  buen  mozo.” 

Antonio  now  descended.  “ Follow  me,”  said 
he ; “ his  worship  the  alcalde  will  be  ready  to  re- 
ceive you  in  a moment.”  Sebastian  and  myself 
followed  him  upstairs  to  a room  where,  seated 
behind  a table,  we  beheld  a young  man  of  low 
stature  but  handsome  features  and  very  fashion- 
ably dressed.  He  appeared  to  be  inditing  a let- 
ter, which,  when  he  had  concluded,  he  delivered 
to  a secretary  to  be  transcribed.  He  then  looked 
at  me  for  a moment  fixedly,  and  the  following 
conversation  ensued  between  us : — 

Alcalde . — I see  that  you  are  an  Englishman, 


Ch.  XII.] 


THE  GRAND  BAINTHAM. 


275 


and  my  friend  Antonio  here  informs  me  that  you 
have  been  arrested  at  Finisterra. 

Myself \ — He  tells  you  true ; and  but  for  him  I 
believe  that  I should  have  fallen  by  the  hands  of 
those  savage  fishermen. 

Alcalde , — The  inhabitants  of  Finisterra  are 
brave,  and  are  all  liberals.  Allow  me  to  look  at 
your  passport?  Yes,  all  in  form.  Truly  it  was 
very  ridiculous  that  they  should  have  arrested 
you  as  a Carlist. 

Myself \ — Not  only  as  a Carlist,  but  as  Don 
Carlos  himself. 

Alcalde,  — Oh ! most  ridiculous;  mistake  a 
countryman  of  the  grand  Baintham  for  such  a 
Goth! 

Myself, — Excuse  me,  Sir,  you  speak  of  the 
grand  somebody. 

Alcalde, — The  grand  Baintham.  He  who  has 
invented  laws  for  all  the  world.  I hope  shortly 
to  see  them  adopted  in  this  unhappy  country  of 
ours. 

Myself,— Oh ! you  mean  Jeremy  Bentham. 
Yes ! a very  remarkable  man  in  his  way. 


276 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XII. 


Alcalde —In  his  way ! in  all  ways.  The 
most  universal  genius  which  the  world  ever 
produced — a Solon,  a Plato,  and  a Lope  de 
Vega. 

Myself— I have  never  read  his  writings.  I 
have  no  doubt  that  he  was  a Solon ; and  as 
you  say,  a Plato.  I should  scarcely  have  thought 
however,  that  he  could  be  ranked  as  a poet  with 
Lope  de  Vega. 

Alcalde . — How  surprising  f I see,  indeed,  that 
you  know  nothing  of  his  writings,  though  an 
Englishman.  Now,  here  am  I,  a simple  al- 
calde of  Galicia,  yet  I possess  all  the  writings 
of  Baintham  on  that  shelf,  and  I study  them  day 
and  night. 

Myself — You  doubtless,  Sir,  possess  the  Eng- 
lish language. 

Alcalde  .—I  do.  I mean  that  part  of  it  which 
is  contained  in  the  writings  of  Baintham.  I am 
most  truly  glad  to  see  a countryman  of  his  in 
these  Gothic  wildernesses.  I understand  and  ap- 
preciate your  motives  for  visiting  them:  excuse 
the  incivility  and  rudeness  which  you  have  ex- 


Ch.  XII.] 


ECCENTRIC  BOOK. 


277 


perienced.  But  we  will  endeavour  to  make  you 
reparation.  You  are  this  moment  free  : but  it  is 
late  ; I must  find  you  a lodging  for  the  night.  I 
know  one  close  by  which  will  just  suit  you.  Let 
us  repair  thither  this  moment.  Stay,  I think  I 
see  a book  in  your  hand. 

Myself. — The  New  Testament. 

Alcalde . — What  book  is  that  ? 

Myself. — A portion  of  the  sacred  writings,  the 
Bible. 

Alcalde. — Why  do  you  carry  such  a book  with 
you? 

Myself. — One  of  my  principal  motives  in  visit- 
ing Finisterra  was  to  carry  this  book  to  that  wild 
place. 

Alcalde. — Ha,  ha ! how  very  singular.  Yes,  I 
remember.  I have  heard  that  the  English  highly 
prize  this  eccentric  book.  How  very  singular 
that  the  countrymen  of  the  grand  Baintham  should 
set  any  value  upon  that  old  monkish  book. 

It  was  now  late  at  night,  and  my  new  friend  at- 
tended me  to  the  lodging  which  he  had  destined  for 
me,  and  which  was  at  the  house  of  a respectable  old 
female, where  I found  a clean  and  comfortable  room. 


278 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XII. 


On  the  way  I slipped  a gratuity  into  the  hand  of 
Antonio,  and  on  my  arrival,  formally,  and  in  the 
presence  of  the  alcalde,  presented  him  with  the 
Testament,  which  I requested  he  would  carry 
back  to  Finisterra,  and  keep  in  remembrance 
of  the  Englishman  in  whose  behalf  he  had  so 
effectually  interposed. 

Antonio.  — 1 will  do  so,  your  worship;  and 
when  the  winds  blow  from  the  north-west,  pre- 
venting our  launches  from  putting  to  sea,  I will 
read  your  present.  Farewell,  my  captain,  and 
when  you  next  come  to  Finisterra  I hope  it  will 
be  in  a valiant  English  bark,  with  plenty  of  con- 
trabando  on  board,  and  not  across  the  country 
on  a pony,  in  company  with  nuveiros  and  men  of 
Padron. 

Presently  arrived  the  handmaid  of  the  alcalde 
with  a basket,  which  she  took  into  the  kitchen, 
where  she  prepared  an  excellent  supper  for  her 
master’s  friend.  On  its  being  served  up  the  al- 
calde bade  me  farewell,  having  first  demanded 
whether  he  could  in  any  way  forward  my  plans. 

“ I return  to  Saint  James  to-morrow,”  I replied, 
“ and  I sincerely  hope  that  some  occasion  will 


Ch.  XII.] 


HOSPITALITY. 


279 


occur  which  will  enable  me  to  acquaint  the  world 
with  the  hospitality  which  I have  experienced 
from  so  accomplished  a scholar  as  the  Alcalde  of 
Corcuvion,” 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


CORUNA.  — CROSSING  THE  BAY. — FERROL. — THE  DOCK-YARD.— 
WHERE  ARE  WE  NOW  ? — GREEK  AMBASSADOR. — LANTERN-LIGHT. 

— THE  RAVINE VIVEIRO EVENING. — MARSH  AND  QUAGMIRE. 

— FAIR  WORDS  AND  FAIR  MONEY.  — THE  LEATHERN  GIRTH.  — 
EYES  OF  LYNX.— THE  KNAVISH  GUIDE. 

From  Corcuvion  I returned  to  Saint  James  and 
Coruna,  and  now  began  to  make  preparation  for 
directing  my  course  to  the  Asturias.  In  the  first 
place  I parted  with  my  Andalusian  horse,  which 
I considered  unfit  for  the  long  and  mountain- 
ous journey  I was  about  to  undertake ; his 
constitution  having  become  much  debilitated 
from  his  Gallegan  travels.  Owing  to  horses 
being  exceedingly  scarce  at  Coruna,  I had  no 
difficulty  in  disposing  of  him  at  a far  higher  price 
than  he  originally  cost  me.  A young  and  wealthy 
merchant  of  Coruna,  who  was  a national  guards- 
man, became  enamoured  of  his  glossy  skin  and 
long  mane  and  tail.  For  my  own  part,  I was 
glad  to  part  with  him  for  more  reasons  than  one ; 
he  was  both  vicious  and  savage,  and  was  conti- 
nually getting  me  into  scrapes  in  the  stables  of  the 


Ch.  XIII. i CROSSING  THE  BAY.  281 

posadas  where  we  slept  or  baited.  An  old  Cas- 
tilian peasant,  whose  pony  he  had  maltreated, 
once  said  to  me  “ Sir  Cavalier,  if  you  have  any 
love  or  respect  for  yourself,  get  rid  I beseech 
you  of  that  beast,  who  is  capable  of  proving  the 
ruin  of  a kingdom.”  So  I left  him  behind  at 
Coruna,  where  I subsequently  learned  that  he 
became  glandered  and  died.  Peace  to  his  me- 
mory ! 

From  Coruna  I crossed  the  bay  to  Ferrol, 
whilst  Antonio  with  our  remaining  horse  followed 
by  land,  a rather  toilsome  and  circuitous  jour- 
ney, although  the  distance  by  water  is  scarcely 
three  leagues.  I was  very  sea-sick  during  the 
passage,  and  lay  almost  senseless  at  the  bottom 
of  the  small  launch  in  which  I had  embarked, 
and  which  was  crowded  with  people.  The  wind 
was  adverse,  and  the  water  rough.  We  could 
make  no  sail,  but  were  impelled  along  by  the 
oars  of  five  or  six  stout  mariners,  who  sang  all 
the  while  Gallegan  ditties.  Suddenly  the  sea 
appeared  to  have  become  quite  smooth,  and  my 
sickness  at  once  deserted  me.  I rose  upon  my 
feet  and  looked  around.  We  were  in  one  of  the 


282 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIII. 


strangest  places  imaginable.  A long  and  narrow 
passage  overhung  on  either  side  by  a stupendous 
barrier  of  black  and  threatening  rocks.  The  line 
of  the  coast  was  here  divided  by  a natural  cleft, 
yet  so  straight  and  regular  that  it  seemed  not  the 
work  of  chance  but  design.  The  water  was  dark 
and  sullen,  and  of  immense  depth.  This  passage, 
which  is  about  a mile  in  length,  is  the  entrance 
to  a broad  basin,  at  whose  farther  extremity 
stands  the  town  of  Ferrol. 

Sadness  came  upon  me  as  soon  as  I entered 
this  place.  Grass  was  growing  in  the  streets,  and 
misery  and  distress  stared  me  in  the  face  on 
every  side.  Ferrol  is  the  grand  naval  arsenal  of 
Spain,  and  has  shared  in  the  ruin  of  the  once 
splendid  Spanish  navy : it  is  no  longer  thronged 
with  those  thousand  shipwrights  who  prepared 
for  sea  the  tremendous  three-deckers  and  long 
frigates,  the  greater  part  of  which  were  destroyed 
at  Trafalgar.  Only  a few  ill  paid  and  half- 
starved  workmen  still  linger  about,  scarcely  suf- 
ficient to  repair  any  guarda  costa  which  may  put 
in  dismantled  by  the  fire  of  some  English  smug- 
gling schooner  from  Gibraltar.  Half  the  inhabit- 


Ch.  XIII.] 


FERROL. 


•283 


ants  of  Ferrol  beg  their  bread;  and  amongst 
these,  as  it  is  said,  are  not  unfrequently  found 
retired  naval  officers,  many  of  them  maimed  or 
otherwise  wounded,  who  are  left  to  pine  in  indi- 
gence ; their  pensions  or  salaries  having  been  al- 
lowed to  run  three  or  four  years  in  arrear,  owing  to 
the  exigencies  of  the  times.  A crowd  of  importun- 
ate beggars  followed  me  to  the  posada,  and  even 
attempted  to  penetrate  to  the  apartment  to  which 
I was  conducted.  “ Who  are  you  ? ” said  I to  a 
woman  who  flung  herself  at  my  feet,  and  who 
bore  in  her  countenance  evident  marks  of  former 
gentility.  “ A widow,  sir,”  she  replied,  in  very 
good  French ; “ a widow  of  a brave  officer,  once 
admiral  of  this  port.”  The  misery  and  degrada- 
tion of  modern  Spain  are  nowhere  so  strikingly 
manifested  as  at  Ferrol. 

Yet  even  here  there  is  still  much  to  admire. 
Noth  withstanding  its  present  state  of  desolation,  it 
contains  some  good  streets,  and  abounds  with 
handsome  houses.  The  alameda  is  planted  with 
nearly  a thousand  elms,  of  which  almost  all  are 
magnificent  trees,  and  the  poor  Ferrolese,  with 
the  genuine  spirit  of  localism  so  prevalent  in 


284 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIII. 


Spain,  boast  that  their  town  contains  a better 
public  walk  than  Madrid,  of  whose  prado,  when 
they  compare  the  two,  they  speak  in  terms  of 
unmitigated  contempt.  At  one  end  of  this  ala- 
meda  stands  the  church,  the  only  one  in  Ferrol. 
To  this  church  I repaired  the  day  after  my  ar- 
rival, which  was  Sunday.  I found  it  quite  in- 
sufficient to  contain  the  number  of  worshippers 
who,  chiefly  from  the  country,  not  only  crowded 
the  interior,  but,  bare-headed,  were  upon  their 
knees  before  the  door  to  a considerable  distance 
down  the  walk. 

Parallel  with  the  alameda  extends  the  wall  of 
the  naval  arsenal  and  dock.  I spent  several 
hours  in  walking  about  these  places,  to  visit 
which  it  is  necessary  to  procure  a written 
permission  from  the  captain-general  of  Ferrol. 
They  filled  me  with  astonishment.  I have  seen 
the  royal  dock-yards  of  Russia  and  England, 
but  for  grandeur  of  design  and  costliness  of 
execution,  they  cannot  for  a moment  compare 
with  these  wonderful  monuments  of  the  bygone 
naval  pomp  of  Spain.  I shall  not  attempt  to 
describe  them,  but  content  myself  with  observ- 


Ch.  XIII.] 


THE  DOCK-YARD.* 


285 


in g,  that  the  oblong  basin,  which  is  surrounded 
with  a granite  mole,  is  capacious  enough  to  per- 
mit a hundred  first-rates  to  lie  conveniently  in 
ordinary:  but  instead  of  such  a force,  I saw 
only  a sixty-gun  frigate  and  two  brigs  lying  in 
this  basin,  and  to  this  inconsiderable  number 
of  vessels  is  the  present  war  marine  of  Spain 
reduced. 

I waited  for  the  arrival  of  Antonio  two  or  three 
days  at  Ferrol,  and  still  he  came  not:  late  one 
evening,  however,  as  I was  looking  down  the 
street,  I perceived  him  advancing,  leading  our 
only  horse  by  the  bridle.  He  informed  me  that, 
at  about  three  leagues  from  Coruna,  the  heat 
of  the  weather  and  the  flies  had  so  distressed 
the  animal  that  it  had  fallen  down  in  a kind  of 
fit,  from  which  it  had  been  only  relieved  by 
copious  bleeding,  on  which  account  he  had 
been  compelled  to  halt  for  a day  upon  the  road. 
The  horse  was  evidently  in  a very  feeble  state; 
and  had  a strange  rattling  in  its  throat,  which 
alarmed  me  at  first.  I however  administered 
some  remedies,  and  in  a few  days  deemed  him 
sufficiently  recovered  to  proceed. 


286 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIII. 


We  accordingly  started  from  Ferrol ; having 
first  hired  a pony  for  myself,  and  a guide  who 
was  to  attend  us  as  far  as  Rivadeo,  twenty 
leagues  from  Ferrol,  and  on  the  confines  of  the 
Asturias.  The  day  at  first  was  fine,  but  ere  we 
reached  Novales,  a distance  of  three  leagues,  the 
sky  became  overcast,  and  a mist  descended,  accom- 
panied by  a drizzling  rain.  The  country  through 
which  we  passed  was  very  picturesque.  At  about 
two  in  the  afternoon  we  could  descry  through  the 
mist  the  small  fishing  town  of  Santa  Marta 
on  our  left,  with  its  beautiful  bay.  Travelling 
along  the  summit  of  a line  of  hills,  we  presently 
entered  a chestnut  forest,  which  appeared  to  be 
without  limit : the  rain  still  descended,  and  kept 
up  a ceaseless  pattering  among  the  broad  green 
leaves.  “ This  is  the  commencement  of  the  au- 
tumnal rains,”  said  the  guide.  “Many  is  the 
wetting  that  you  will  get,  my  masters,  before 
you  reach  Oviedo.”  “ Have  you  ever  been  as 
far  as  Oviedo  ?”  I demanded.  “ No,”  he  replied, 
“ and  once  only  to  Rivadeo,  the  place  to  which  I 
am  now  conducting  you,  and  I tell  you  frankly 
that  we  shall  soon  be  in  wildernesses  where  the 


Ch.  XIII.] 


WHERE  ARE  WE  NOW  ? 


287 


way  is  hard  to  find,  especially  at  night,  and  amidst 
rain  and  waters.  I wish  I were  fairly  back  to 
Ferrol,  for  I like  not  this  route,  which  is  the 
worst  in  Galicia,  in  more  respects  than  one; 
but  where  my  master’s  pony  goes,  there  must  I 
go  too ; such  is  the  life  of  us  guides.”  I shrugged 
my  shoulders  at  this  intelligence,  which  was  by 
no  means  cheering,  but  made  no  answer.  At 
length,  about  nightfall,  we  emerged  from  the 
forest,  and  presently  descended  into  a deep 
valley  at  the  foot  of  lofty  hills. 

“ Where  are  we  now  ?”  I demanded  of  the 
guide,  as  we  crossed  a rude  bridge  at  the  bottom 
of  the  valley,  down  which  a rivulet  swollen  by  the 
rain  foamed  and  roared.  “ In  the  valley  of  Coisa 
doiro,”  he  replied ; “ and  it  is  my  advice  that  we 
stay  here  for  the  night,  and  do  not  venture  among 
those  hills,  through  which  lies  the  path  to  Viveiro  ; 
for  as  soon  as  we  get  there,  adios  ! I shall  be  be- 
wildered, which  will  prove  the  destruction  of  us 
all.”  “ Is  there  a village  nigh  ?”  “ Yes,  the 

village  is  right  before  us,  and  we  shall  be  there  in 
a moment.”  We  soon  reached  the  village,  which 


288 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIII. 


stood  amongst  some  tall  trees  at  the  entrance  of 
a pass  which  led  up  amongst  the  hills.  Antonio 
dismounted  and  entered  two  or  three  of  the 
cabins,  but  presently  came  to  me  saying,  “We 
cannot  stay  here,  mon  maitre,  without  being  de- 
voured by  vermin ; we  had  better  be  amongst  the 
hills  than  in  this  place ; there  is  neither  fire  nor 
light  in  these  cabins,  and  the  rain  is  streaming 
through  the  roofs.”  The  guide,  however,  refused 
to  proceed : “ I could  scarcely  find  my  way 
amongst  those  hills  by  daylight,”  he  cried,  sur- 
lily, “ much  less  at  night,  ’midst  storm  and  bre- 
tima  ” W e procured  some  wine  and  maize  bread 
from  one  of  the  cottages.  Whilst  we  were  par- 
taking of  these,  Antonio  said,  “ Mon  maitre,  the 
best  thing  we  can  do  in  our  present  situation,  is 
to  hire  some  fellow  of  this  village  to  conduct  us 
through  the  hills  to  Viveiro.  There  are  no  beds 
in  this  place,  and  if  we  lie  down  in  the  litter  in 
our  damp  clothes  we  shall  catch  a tertian  of  Ga- 
licia. Our  present  guide  is  of  no  service,  we 
must  therefore  find  another  to  do  his  duty.” 
Without  waiting  for  a reply,  he  flung  down  the 


Ch.  XIII.] 


GREEK  AMBASSADOR. 


289 


crust  of  broa.  which  he  was  munching  and  dis- 
appeared. I subsequently  learned  that  he  went 
to  the  cottage  of  the  alcalde,  and  demanded,  in 
the  Queen’s  name,  a guide  for  the  Greek  ambas- 
sador, who  was  benighted  on  his  way  to  the 
Asturias.  In  about  ten  minutes  I again  saw  him, 
attended  by  the  local  functionary,  who,  to  my 
surprise,  made  me  a profound  bow,  and  stood 
bare-headed  in  the  rain.  u His  excellency,” 
shouted  Antonio,  “ is  in  need  of  a guide  to  Vi- 
veiro. People  of  our  description  are  not  com- 
pelled to  pay  for  any  service  which  they  may 
require  ; however,  as  his  excellency  has  bowels  of 
compassion,  he  is  willing  to  give  three  pesetas  to 
any  competent  person  who  will  accompany  him 
to  Viveiro,  and  as  much  bread  and  wine  as  he 
can  eat  and  drink  on  his  arrival.”  “ His  excel- 
lency shall  be  served,”  said  the  alcalde ; “ how- 
ever, as  the  way  is  long  and  the  path  is  bad,  and 
there  is  much  bretima  amongst  the  hills,  it  ap- 
pears to  me  that,  besides  the  bread  and  wine,  his 
excellency  can  do  no  less  than  offer  four  pesetas 
to  the  guide  who  may  be  willing  to  accompany 
him  to  Viveiro ; and  I know  no  one  better  than 


VOL.  II. 


o 


290 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIII. 


my  own  son-in-law,  Juanito.”  “ Content,  senor 
alcalde,”  I replied ; “ produce  the  guide,  and  the 
extra  peseta  shall  be  forthcoming  in  due  season.” 

Soon  appeared  Juanito  with  a lantern  in  his 
hand.  We  instantly  set  forward.  The  two  guides 
began  conversing  in  Gallegan.  “ Mon  maitre,” 
said  Antonio,  “ this  new  scoundrel  is  asking  the 
old  one  what  he  thinks  we  have  got  in  our  port- 
manteaus.” Then,  without  awaiting  my  answer, 
he  shouted,  66  Pistols,  ye  barbarians!  Pistols,  as 
you  shall  learn  to  your  cost,  if  you  do  not  cease 
speaking  in  that  gibberish  and  converse  in  Cas- 
tilian.” The  Gallegans  were  silent,  and  presently 
the  first  guide  dropped  behind,  whilst  the  other 
with  the  lantern  moved  before.  “ Keep  in  the 
rear,”  said  Antonio  to  the  former,  “ and  at  a dis- 
tance : know  one  thing,  moreover,  that  I can  see 
behind  as  well  as  before.  Mon  maitre,”  said  he 
to  me,  “ I don’t  suppose  these  fellows  will  attempt 
to  do  us  any  harm,  more  especially  as  they  do  not 
know  each  other ; it  is  well,  however,  to  separate 
them,  for  this  is  a time  and  place  which  might 
tempt  any  one  to  commit  robbery  and  murder  too.” 

The  rain  still  continued  to  fall  uninterruptedly, 


Ch.  XIII.] 


LANTERN-LIGHT. 


291 


the  path  was  rugged  and  precipitous,  and  the 
night  was  so  dark  that  we  could  only  see  indis- 
tinctly the  hills  which  surrounded  us.  Once  or 
twice  our  guide  seemed  to  have  lost  his  way : he 
stopped,  muttered  to  himself,  raised  his  lantern 
on  high,  and  would  then  walk  slowly  and  hesi- 
tatingly forward.  In  this  manner  we  proceeded 
for  three  or  four  hours,  when  I asked  the  guide 
how  far  we  were  from  Viveiro.  “ I do  not  know 
exactly  where  we  are,  your  worship,”  he  replied, 
“ though  I believe  we  are  in  the  route.  We  can 
scarcely,  however,  be  less  than  two  mad  leagues 
from  Viveiro.”  “ Then  we  shall  not  arrive  there 
before  morning,”  interrupted  Antonio,  “ for  a mad 
league  of  Galicia  means  at  least  two  of  Castile ; 
and  perhaps  we  are  doomed  never  to  arrive  there, 
if  the  way  thither  leads  down  this  precipice.”  As 
he  spoke,  the  guide  seemed  to  descend  into  the 
bowels  of  the  earth.  “ Stop,”  said  I,  “ where  are 
you  going?”  “ To  Viveiro,  Senhor,”  replied  the 
fellow : “ this  is  the  way  to  Viveiro,  there  is  no 
other ; I now  know  where  we  are.”  The  light  of 
the  lantern  shone  upon  the  dark  r®d  features  of 
the  guide,  who  had  turned  round  to  reply,  as  he 

o 2 


292 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIII. 


stood  some  yards  down  the  side  of  a dingle  or 
ravine  overgrown  with  thick  trees,  beneath  whose 
leafy  branches  a frightfully  steep  path  descended. 
I dismounted  from  the  pony,  and  delivering  the 
bridle  to  the  other  guide,  said,  “ Here  is  your 
master’s  horse,  if  you  please  you  may  lead  him 
down  that  abyss,  but  as  for  myself  I wash  my 
hands  of  the  matter.”  The  fellow,  without  a word 
of  reply,  vaulted  into  the  saddle,  and  with  a 
vamos , Perico  ! to  the  pony,  impelled  the  creature 
to  the  descent.  “ Come,  Senhor,”  said  he  with 
the  lantern,  “ there  is  no  time  to  be  lost,  my 
light  will  be  presently  extinguished,  and  this  is 
the  worst  bit  in  the  whole  road.”  I thought  it 
very  probable  that  he  was  about  to  lead  us  to 
some  den  of  cut-throats,  where  we  might  be  sa- 
crificed; but,  taking  courage,  I seized  our  own 
horse  by  the  bridle,  and  followed  the  fellow 
down  the  ravine  amidst  rocks  and  brambles. 
The  descent  lasted  nearly  ten  minutes,  and  ere 
we  had  entirely  accomplished  it,  the  light  in 
the  lantern  went  out,, and  we  remained  in  nearly 
total  darkness. 

Encouraged,  however,  by  the  guide,  who  assured 


Ch.  XIII.] 


THE  RAVINE. — VIVEIRO. 


293 


us  there  was  no  danger,  we  at  length  reached  the 
bottom  of  the  ravine ; here  we  encountered  a rill 
of  water,  through  which  we  were  compelled  to 
wade  as  high  as  the  knee.  In  the  midst  of  the 
water  I looked  up  and  caught  a glimpse  of  the 
heavens  through  the  branches  of  the  trees,  which 
all  around  clothed  the  shelving  sides  of  the 
ravine  and  completely  embowered  the  channel  of 
the  stream : to  a place  more  strange  and  replete 
with  gloom  and  horror  no  benighted  traveller 
ever  found  his  way.  After  a short  pause  we  com- 
menced scaling  the  opposite  bank,  which  we  did 
not  find  so  steep  as  the  other,  and  a few  minutes’ 
exertion  brought  us  to  the  top. 

Shortly  afterwards  the  rain  abated,  and  the 
moon  arising  cast  a dim  light  through  the  watery 
mists;  the  way  had  become  less  precipitous, 
and  in  about  two  hours  we  descended  to  the 
shore  of  an  extensive  creek,  along  which  we  pro- 
ceeded till  we  reached  a spot  where  many  boats 
and  barges  lay  with  their  keels  upward  upon  the 
sand.  Presently  we  beheld  before  us  the  walls 
of  Viveiro,  upon  which  the  moon  was  shedding 
its  sickly  lustre.  We  entered  by  a lofty  and 


294  THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN.  [Ch.  XIII. 

seemingly  ruinous  archway,  and  the  guide  con- 
ducted us  at  once  to  the  posada. 

Every  person  in  Viveiro  appeared  to  be  buried 
in  profound  slumber ; not  so  much  as  a dog  sa- 
luted us  with  his  bark.  After  much  knocking  we 
were  admitted  into  the  posada,  a large  and  di- 
lapidated edifice.  We  had  scarcely  housed  our- 
selves and  horses  when  the  rain  began  to  fall 
with  yet  more  violence  than  before,  attended  with 
much  thunder  and  lightning.  Antonio  and  I, 
exhausted  with  fatigue,  betook  ourselves  to  flock 
beds  in  a ruinous  chamber,  into  which  the  rain 
penetrated  through  many  a cranny,  whilst  the 
guides  ate  bread  and  drank  wine  till  the  morn- 
ing. 

When  I arose  I was  gladdened  by  the  sight  of 
a fine  day.  Antonio  forthwith  prepared  a savoury 
breakfast  of  stewed  fowl,  of  which  we  stood  in 
much  need  after  the  ten  league  journey  of  the 
preceding  day  over  the  ways  which  I have  at- 
tempted to  describe.  I then  walked  out  to  view 
the  town,  which  consists  of  little  more  than  one 
long  street,  on  the  side  of  a steep  mountain 
thickly  clad  with  forest  and  fruit  trees.  At  about 


Ch.  XIII.]  EVENING. — MARSH  AND  QUAGMIRE.  295 

ten  we  continued  our  journey,  accompanied  by 
our  first  guide,  the  other  having  returned  to  Coisa 
doiro  some  hours  previously. 

Our  route  throughout  this  day  was  almost  con- 
stantly within  sight  of  the  shores  of  the  Canta- 
brian sea,  whose  windings  we  followed.  The 
country  was  barren,  and  in  many  parts  covered 
with  huge  stones : cultivated  spots,  however,  were 
to  be  seen,  where  vines  were  growing.  We  met 
with  but  few  human  habitations.  We  however 
journeyed  on  cheerfully,  for  the  sun  was  once 
more  shining  in  full  brightness,  gilding  the  wild 
moors,  and  shining  upon  the  waters  of  the  dis- 
tant sea,  which  lay  in  unruffled  calmness. 

At  evening  fall  we  were  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  the  shore,  with  a range  of  wood-covered  hills 
on  our  right.  Our  guide  led  us  towards  a creek 
bordered  by  a marsh,  but  he  soon  stopped  and 
declared  that  he  did  not  know  whither  he  was 
^conducting  us. 

“ Mon  maitre,”  said  Antonio,  “ let  us  be  our 
own  guides ; it  is,  as  you  see,  of  no  use  to  depend 
upon  this  fellow,  whose  whole  science  consists  in 
leading  people  into  quagmires.” 


•296 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIII. 


We  therefore  turned  aside  and  proceeded  along 
the  marsh  for  a considerable  distance,  till  we 
reached  a narrow  path  which  led  us  into  a thick 
wood,  where  we  soon  became  completely  bewil- 
dered. On  a sudden,  after  wandering  about  a 
considerable  time,  we  heard  the  noise  of  water, 
and  presently  the  clack  of  a wheel.  Following 
the  sound,  we  arrived  at  a low  stone  mill,  built 
over  a brook;  here  we  stopped  and  shouted,  but 
no  answer  was  returned.  “ The  place  is  deserted,” 
said  Antonio ; “ here,  however,  is  a path,  which,  if 
we  follow  it,  will  doubtless  lead  us  to  some  human 
habitation.  So  we  went  along  the  path,  which, 
in  about  ten  minutes,  brought  us  to  the  door  of 
a cabin,  in  which  we  saw  lights.  Antonio  dis- 
mounted and  opened  the  door : “ Is  there  any 
one  here  who  can  conduct  us  to  Rivadeo  ?”  he 
demanded.  ' 

“ Senhor,”  answered  a voice,  “ Rivadeo  is  more 
than  five  leagues  from  here,  and,  moreover,  there 
is  a river  to  cross  !” 

“ Then  to  the  next  village,”  continued  Antonio. 

“ I am  a vecino  of  the  next  village,  which  is  on 
the  way  to  Rivadeo,”  said  another  voice,  “ and  I 


Ch.  XIII.]  FAIR  WORDS  AND  FAIR  MONEY.  297 

will  lead  you  thither,  if  you  will  give  me  fair  words, 
and,  what  is  better,  fair  money.” 

A man  now  came  forth,  holding  in  his  hand  a 
large  stick.  He  strode  sturdily  before  us,  and  in 
less  than  half  an  hour  led  us  out  of  the  wood.  In 
another  half  hour  he  brought  us  to  a group  of 
cabins  situated  near  the  sea ; he  pointed  to  one  of 
these,  and  having  received  a peseta,  bade  us  fare- 
well. 

The  people  of  the  cottage  willingly  consented 
to  receive  us  for  the  night:  it  was  much  more 
cleanly  and  commodious  than  the  wretched  huts 
of  the  Gallegan  peasantry  in  general.  The  ground 
floor  consisted  of  a keeping  room  and  stable, 
whilst  above  was  a long  loft,  in  which  were 
some  neat  and  comfortable  flock  beds.  I ob- 
served several  masts  and  sails  of  boats.  The 
family  consisted  of  two  brothers  with  their  wives 
and  families ; one  was  a fisherman,  but  the  other, 
who  appeared  to  be  the  principal  person,  informed 
me  that  he  had  resided  for  many  years  in  service 
at  Madrid,  and  having  amassed  a small  sum,  he 
had  at  length  returned  to  his  native  village,  where 
he  had  purchased  some  land  which  he  farmed. 

o 3 


298 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIII. 


All  the  family  used  the  Castilian  language  in  their 
common  discourse,  and  on  inquiry  I learned  that 
the  Gallegan  was  not  much  spoken  in  that  neigh- 
bourhood. I have  forgotten  the  name  of  this  vil- 
lage, which  is  situated  on  the  estuary  of  the  Foz, 
which  rolls  down  from  Mondonedo.  In  the  morn- 
ing we  crossed  this  estuary  in  a large  boat  with 
our  horses,  and  about  noon  arrived  at  Rivadeo. 

“ Now,  your  worship,”  said  the  guide  who  had 
accompanied  us  from  Ferrcl,  “ I have  brought  you 
as  far  as  I bargained,  and  a hard  journey  it  has 
been : I therefore  hope  you  will  suffer  Perico  and 
myself  to  remain  here  to-night  at  your  expense, 
and  to-morrow  we  will  go  back ; at  present  we  are 
both  sorely  tired.” 

“ I never  mounted  a better  pony  than  Perico,” 
said  I,  “ and  never  met  with  a worse  guide  than 
yourself.  You  appear  to  be  perfectly  ignorant  of 
the  country,  and  have  done  nothing  but  bring  us 
into  difficulties.  You  may,  however,  stay  here  for 
the  night,  as  you  say  you  are  tired,  and  to-morrow 
you  may  return  to  Ferrol,  where  I counsel  you  to 
adopt  some  other  trade.”  This  was  said  at  the 
door  of  the  posada  of  Rivadeo. 


Ch.  XIII.]  THE  LEATHERN  GIRTH. 


299 


“ Shall  I lead  the  horses  to  a stable  ? ” said  the 
fellow. 

“ As  you  please,”  said  1. 

Antonio  looked  after  him  for  a moment,  as  he 
was  leading  the  animals  away,  and  then  shaking 
his  head  followed  slowly  after.  In  about  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  he  returned,  laden  with  the 
furniture  of  our  own  horse,  and  with  a smile  upon 
his  countenance  : “ Mon  maitre,”  said  he,  “ I have 
throughout  the  journey  had  a bad  opinion  of  this 
fellow,  and  now  I have  detected  him : his  motive 
in  requesting  permission  to  stay,  was  a desire  to 
purloin  something  from  us.  He  was  very  officious 
in  the  stable  about  our  horse,  and  I now  miss  the 
new  leathern  girth  which  secured  the  saddle,  and 
which  I observed  him  looking  at  frequently  on  the 
road.  He  has  by  this  time  doubtless  hid  it  some- 
where ; we  are  quite  secure  of  him,  however,  for 
he  has  not  yet  received  the  hire  for  the  pony,  nor 
the  gratuity  for  himself.” 

The  guide  returned  just  as  he  had  concluded 
speaking.  Dishonesty  is  always  suspicious.  The 
fellow  cast  a glance  upon  us,  and  probably  be- 
holding in  our  countenances  something  which  he 


300 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIII. 


did  not  like,  he  suddenly  said,  “ Give  me  the 
horse-hire  and  my  own  propina,  for  Perico  and  I 
wish  to  be  off  instantly.” 

“ How  is  this  ? ” said  I ; “ I thought  you  and 
Perico  were  both  fatigued,  and  wished  to  rest 
here  for  the  night : you  have  soon  recovered  from 
your  weariness.” 

“ I have  thought  over  the  matter,”  said  the  fel- 
low, “ and  my  master  will  be  angry  if  I loiter 
here  : pay  us,  therefore,  and  let  us  go.” 

“ Certainly,”  said  I,  “if  you  wish  it.  Is  the 
horse  furniture  all  right  ?” 

“ Quite  so,”  said  he ; “I  delivered  it  all  to  your 
servant.” 

“ It  is  all  here,”  said  Antonio,  “with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  leathern  girth.” 

“ I have  not  got  it,”  said  the  guide. 

“ Of  course  not,”  said  I.  “ Let  us  proceed  to 
the  stable,  we  shall  perhaps  find  it  there.” 

To  the  stable  we  went,  which  we  searched 
through : no  girth,  however,  was  forthcoming. 
“ He  has  got  it  buckled  round  his  middle  be- 
neath his  pantaloons,  mon  maitre,”  said  Antonio, 
whose  eyes  were  moving  about  like  those  of  a 


Ch.  XIII.] 


EYES  OF  LYNX. 


301 


lynx ; “ I saw  the  protuberance  as  he  stooped 
down.  However,  let  us  take  no  notice : he  is 
here  surrounded  by  his  countrymen,  who,  if  we 
were  to  seize  him,  might  perhaps  take  his  part. 
As  I said  before,  he  is  in  our  power,  as  we  have 
not  paid  him.” 

The  fellow  now  began  to  talk  in  Gallegan  to 
the  bystanders,  (several  persons  having  collected,) 
wishing  the  Denho  to  take  him  if  he  knew  any- 
thing of  the  missing  property.  Nobody,  however, 
seemed  inclined  to  take  his  part ; and  those  who 
listened,  only  shrugged  their  shoulders.  We 
returned  to  the  portal  of  the  posada,  the  fellow 
following  us,  clamouring  for  the  horse-hire  and 
propina.  We  made  him  no  answer,  and  at 
length  he  went  away,  threatening  to  apply  to  the 
justicia;  in  about  ten  minutes,  however,  he  came 
running  back  with  the  girth  in  his  hand  : “ I have 
just  found  it,”  said  he,  “ in  the  street : your  serv- 
ant dropped  it.” 

I took  the  leather  and  proceeded  very  delibe- 
rately to  count  out  the  sum  to  which  the  horse - 
hire  amounted,  and  having  delivered  it  to  him  in 
the  presence  of  witnesses,  I said,  “ During  the 


302 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIII. 


whole  journey  you  have  been  of  no  service  to  us 
whatever ; nevertheless,  you  have  fared  like  our- 
selves, and  have  had  all  you  could  desire  to  eat 
and  drink.  I intended,  on  your  leaving  us,  to 
present  you,  moreover,  with  a propina  of  two 
dollars ; but  since,  notwithstanding  our  kind  treat- 
ment, you  endeavoured  to  pillage  us,  I will  not 
give  you  a cuarto  : go,  therefore,  about  your  busi- 
ness.” 

All  the  audience  expressed  their  satisfaction  at 
this  sentence,  and  told  him  that  he  had  been 
rightly  served,  and  that  he  was  a disgrace  to  Ga- 
licia. Two  or  three  women  crossed  themselves, 
and  asked  him  if  he  was  not  afraid  that  the 
Denho,  whom  he  had  invoked,  would  take  him 
away.  At  last,  a respectable  looking  man  said 
to  him  : “ Are  you  not  ashamed  to  have  attempted 
to  rob  two  innocent  strangers  ?” 

“ Strangers !”  roared  the  fellow,  who  was  by 
this  time  foaming  with  rage  ; “ innocent  strangers, 
carracho  ! they  know  more  of  Spain  and  Galicia 
too  than  the  whole  of  us.  Oh,  Denho,  that  serv- 
ant is  no  man  but  a wizard,  a nuveiro. — Where  is 
Perico  ?” 


Ch.  XIII.] 


THE  KNAVISH  GUIDE. 


303 


He  mounted  Perico,  and  proceeded  forthwith 
to  another  posada.  The  tale,  however,  of  his  dis- 
honesty had  gone  before  him,  and  no  person 
would  house  him ; whereupon  he  returned  on 
his  steps,  and  seeing  me  looking  out  of  the  win- 
dow of  the  house,  he  gave  a savage  shout,  and 
shaking  his  fist  at  me,  galloped  out  of  the  town  ; 
the  people  pursuing  him  with  hootings  and  re- 
vilings. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


MARTIN  OF  RIVADF.O. — THE  FACTIOUS  MARE. — ASTURIANS. — 
LUARCA. — THE  SEVEN  BELLOTAS. — HERMITS. — THE  ASTURIAN’S 
TALE. — STRANGE  GUESTS THE  BIG  SERVANT. — BATUSCHCA. 

“ What  may  your  business  be  ?”  said  I to  a short, 
thick,  merry-faced  fellow  in  a velveteen  jerkin  and 
canvass  pantaloons,  who  made  his  way  into  my 
apartment,  in  the  dusk  of  the  evening. 

“ I am  Martin  of  Rivadeo,  your  worship,”  re- 
plied the  man,  “ an  alquilador  by  profession  ; I 
am  told  that  you  want  a horse  for  your  journey 
into  the  Asturias  to-morrow,  and  of  course  a 
guide : now,  if  that  be  the  case,  I counsel  you  to 
hire  myself  and  mare.” 

“ I am  become  tired  of  guides,”  I replied ; “ so 
much  so  that  I was  thinking  of  purchasing  a pony, 
and  proceeding  without  any  guide  at  all.  The 
last  which  we  had  was  an  infamous  character.” 

“ So  I have  been  told,  your  worship,  and  it  was 
well  for  the  bribon  that  I was  not  in  Rivadeo  when 


Ch.  XIV.] 


MARTIN  OF  RIVADEO. 


305 


the  affair  to  which  you  allude  occurred.  But  he 
was  gone  with  the  pony  Perico  before  I came 
back,  or  I would  have  bled  the  fellow  to  a certainty 
with  my  knife.  He  is  a disgrace  to  the  profession, 
which  is  one  of  the  most  honourable  and  ancient 
in  the  world.  Perico  himself  must  have  been 
ashamed  of  him,  for  Perico,  though  a pony,  is  a 
gentleman,  one  of  many  capacities,  and  well  known 
upon  the  roads.  He  is  only  inferior  to  my  mare.” 

“ Are  you  well  acquainted  with  the  road  to 
Oviedo  ?”  I demanded. 

“ I am  not,  your  worship ; that  is,  no  farther  than 
Luarca,  which  is  the  first  day’s  journey.  I do  not 
wish  to  deceive  you,  therefore  let  me  go  with  you 
no  farther  than  that  place  ; though  perhaps  I might 
serve  for  the  whole  journey,  for  though  I am  un- 
acquainted with  the  country,  I have  a tongue  in 
my  head,  and  nimble  feet  to  run  and  ask  ques- 
tions. I will,  however,  answer  for  myself  no  far- 
ther than  Luarca,  where  you  can  please  your- 
selves. Your  being  strangers  is  what  makes  me 
wish  to  accompany  you,  for  I like  the  conversa- 
tion of  strangers,  from  whom  I am  sure  to  gain 
information  both  entertaining  and  profitable.  I 


306 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


{Ch.  XIV. 


wish,  moreover,  to  convince  you  that  we  guides  of 
Galicia  are  not  all  thieves,  which  I am  sure  you 
will  not  suppose  if  you  only  permit  me  to  accom- 
pany you  as  far  as  Luarca.” 

I was  so  much  struck  with  the  fellow’s  good  hu- 
mour and  frankness,  and  more  especially  by  the 
originality  of  character  displayed  in  almost  every 
sentence  which  he  uttered,  that  I readily  engaged 
him  to  guide  us  to  Luarca ; whereupon  he  left  me, 
promising  to  be  ready  with  his  mare  at  eight  next 
morning. 

Rivadeo  is  one  of  the  principal  sea-ports  of 
Galicia,  and  is  admirably  situated  for  commerce, 
on  a deep  firth,  into  which  the  river  Mirando  de- 
bouches. It  contains  many  magnificent  build- 
ings, and  an  extensive  square  or  plaza,  which  is 
planted  with  trees.  I observed  several  vessels  in 
the  harbour ; and  the  population,  which  is  rather 
numerous,  exhibited  none  of  those  marks  of 
misery  and  dejection  which  I had  lately  observed 
among  the  Ferrolese. 

On  the  morrow  Martin  of  Rivadeo  made  his  ap- 
pearance at  the  appointed  hour  with  his  mare.  It 
was  a lean  haggard  animal,  not  much  larger  than 


Ch.  XIV.] 


THE  FACTIOUS  MARE. 


307 


a pony ; it  had  good  points,  however,  and  was 
very  clean  in  its  hinder  legs,  and  Martin  insisted 
that  it  was  the  best  animal  of  its  kind  in  all 
Spain.  “ It  is  a factious  mare,”  said  he,  “ and  I 
believe  an  Alavese.  When  the  Carlists  came 
here  it  fell  lame,  and  they  left  it  behind,  and  I 
purchased  it  for  a dollar.  It  is  not  lame  now, 
however,  as  you  shall  soon  see.” 

We  had  now  reached  the  firth  which  divides 
Galicia  from  the  Asturias.  A kind  of  barge  was 
lying  about  two  yards  from  the  side  of  the  quay, 
waiting  to  take  us  over.  Towards  this  Martin  led 
his  mare,  and  giving  an  encouraging  shout,  the 
creature  without  any  hesitation  sprang  over  the 
intervening  space  into  the  barge.  “ I told  you 
she  was  a facciosa,”  said  Martin  ; “ none  but  a fac- 
tious animal  would  have  taken  such  a leap.” 

We  all  embarked  in  the  barge  and  crossed 
over  the  firth,  which  is  in  this  place  nearly  a mile 
broad,  to  Castro  Pol,  the  first  town  in  the  Astu- 
rias. I now  mounted  the  factious  mare,  whilst 
Antonio  followed  on  my  own  horse.  Martin  led 
the  way,  exchanging  jests  with  every  person 


308 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIV. 


whom  he  met  on  the  road,  and  occasionally  en- 
livening the  way  with  an  extemporaneous  song. 

We  were  now  in  the  Asturias,  and  about  noon 
we  reached  Navias,  a small  fishing  town,  situate 
on  a ria  or  firth : in  the  neighbourhood  are  ragged 
mountains,  called  the  Sierra  de  Buron,  which 
stand  in  the  shape  of  a semicircle.  We  saw  a 
small  vessel  in  the  harbour,  which  we  subse- 
quently learned  was  from  the  Basque  provinces, 
come  for  a cargo  of  cider  or  sagadua,  the  be- 
verage so  dearly  loved  by  the  Basques.  As  we 
passed  along  the  narrow  street,  Antonio  was 
hailed  with  an  “Ola”  from  a species  of  shop  in 
which  three  men,  apparently  shoemakers,  were 
seated.  He  stopped  for  some  time  to  converse 
with  them,  and  when  he  joined  us  at  the  posada 
where  we  halted,  I asked  him  who  they  were : 
“ Mon  maitre,”  said  he,  “ ce  sont  des  messieurs 
de  ma  connoissance.  I have  been  fellow  servant 
at  different  times  with  all  three  ; and  I tell  you 
beforehand,  that  we  shall  scarcely  pass  through 
a village  in  this  country  where  I shall  not  find 
an  acquaintance.  All  the  Asturians,  at  some  pe- 


Ch.  XIV.] 


ASTURIANS. 


309 


riod  of  their  lives,  make  a journey  to  Madrid, 
where,  if  they  can  obtain  a situation,  they  remain 
until  they  have  scraped  up  sufficient  to  turn  to 
advantage  in  their  own  country;  and  as  I have 
served  in  all  the  great  houses  in  Madrid,  I am 
acquainted  with  the  greatest  part  of  them.  I have 
nothing  to  say  against  the  Asturians,  save  that 
they  are  close  and  penurious  whilst  at  service ; 
but  they  are  not  thieves,  neither  at  home  nor 
abroad,  and  though  we  must  have  our  wits  about 
us  in  their  country,  I have  heard  we  may  travel 
from  one  end  of  it  to  the  other  without  the  slight- 
est fear  of  being  either  robbed  or  ill-treated, 
which  is  not  the  case  in  Galicia,  where  we  were 
always  in  danger  of  having  our  throats  cut.” 

Leaving  Navias,  we  proceeded  through  a wild 
desolate  country,  till  we  reached  the  pass  of  Ba- 
ralla,  which  lies  up  the  side  of  a huge  wall  of 
rocks,  which  at  a distance  appear  of  a light  green 
colour,  though  perfectly  bare  of  herbage  or  plants 
of  any  description. 

“ This  pass,”  said  Martin  of  Rivadeo,  “ bears  a 
very  evil  reputation,  and  I should  not  like  to  travel 


310 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIV. 


it  after  sunset.  It  is  not  infested  by  robbers,  but 
by  things  much  worse,  the  duendes  of  two  friars 
of  Saint  Francis.  It  is  said  that  in  the  old  time, 
long  before  the  convents  were  suppressed,  two 
friars  of  the  order  of  Saint  Francis  left  their  con- 
vent to  beg ; it  chanced  that  they  were  very  success- 
ful, but  as  they  were  returning  at  nightfall  by  this 
pass,  they  had  a quarrel  about  what  they  had  col- 
lected, each  insisting  that  he  had  done  his  duty 
better  than  the  other ; at  last,  from  high  words 
they  fell  to  abuse,  and  from  abuse  to  blows. 
What  do  you  think  these  demons  of  friars  did  ? 
They  took  off  their  cloaks,  and  at  the  end  of  each 
they  made  a knot,  in  which  they  placed  a large 
stone,  and  with  these  they  thrashed  and  be- 
laboured each  other  till  both  fell  dead.  Master, 
I know  not  which  are  the  worst  plagues,  friars, 
curates,  or  sparrows  : 

‘ May  the  Lord  God  preserve  us  from  evil  birds  three : 

From  all  friars  and  curates  and  sparrows  that  be ; 

For  the  sparrows  eat  up  all  the  corn  that  we  sow, 

The  friars  drink  down  all  the  wine  that  we  grow, 

Whilst  the  curates  have  all  the  fair  dames  at  their  nod  : 

From  these  three  evil  curses  preserve  us,  Lord  God.’” 


Ch.  XIV.] 


LUARCA. 


311 


In  about  two  hours  from  this  time  we  reached 
Luarca,  the  situation  of  which  is  most  singular. 
It  stands  in  a deep  hollow,  whose  sides  are  so  pre- 
cipitous that  it  is  impossible  to  descry  the  town 
until  you  stand  just  above  it.  At  the  northern 
extremity  of  this  hollow  is  a small  harbour,  the 
sea  entering  by  a narrow  cleft.  We  found  a large 
and  comfortable  posada,  and  by  the  advice  of 
Martin,  made  inquiry  for  a fresh  guide  and  horse ; 
we  were  informed,  however,  that  all  the  horses  of 
the  place  were  absent,  and  that  if  we  waited  for 
their  return,  we  must  tarry  for  two  days.  “ I had 
a presentiment,”  said  Martin,  “ when  we  entered 
Luarca,  that  we  were  not  doomed  to  part  at  pre- 
sent. You  must  now  hire  my  mare  and  me  as  far 
as  Giyon,  from  whence  there  is  a conveyance  to 
Oviedo.  To  tell  you  the  truth,  I am  by  no  means 
sorry  that  the  guides  are  absent,  for  I am  pleased 
with  your  company,  as  I make  no  doubt  you  are 
with  mine.  I will  now  go  and  write  a letter  to  my 
wife  at  Rivadeo,  informing  her  that  she  must  not 
expect  to  see  me  back  for  several  days.”  He 
then  went  out  of  the  room  singing  the  following 


stanza : 


312 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIV. 


“ A Landless  man  a letter  did  write, 

A dumb  dictated  it  word  for  word : 

The  person  who  read  it  had  lost  his  sight, 

And  deaf  was  he  who  listened  and  heard.  ” 

Early  the  next  morning  we  emerged  from  the 
hollow  of  Luarca ; about  an  hour’s  riding  brought 
us  to  Caneiro,  a deep  and  romantic  valley  of 
rocks,  shaded  by  tall  chestnut  trees.  Through 
the  midst  of  this  valley  rushes  a rapid  stream, 
which  we  crossed  in  a boat.  “ There  is  not  such 
a stream  for  trout  in  all  the  Asturias,”  said  the 
ferryman  ; “ look  down  into  the  waters  and  observe 
the  large  stones  over  which  it  flows ; now  in  the 
proper  season,  and  in  fine  weather,  you  cannot 
see  those  stones  for  the  multitudes  of  fish  which 
cover  them.” 

Leaving  the  valley  behind  us,  we  entered  into 
a wild  and  dreary  country,  stony  and  mountain- 
ous. The  day  was  dull  and  gloomy,  and  all 
around  looked  sad  and  melancholy.  “ Are  we 
in  the  way  for  Giyon  and  Oviedo?”  demanded 
Martin  of  an  ancient  female,  who  stood  at  the 
door  of  a cottage. 

“ For  Giyon  and  Oviedo  !”  replied  the  crone; 
“ many  is  the  weary  step  you  will  have  to  make 


Ch.  XIV.] 


THE  SEVEN  BELLOTAS. 


313 


before  you  reach  Giyon  and  Oviedo.  You  must 
first  of  ail  crack  the  bellotas  : you  are  just  below 
them.” 

“ What  does  she  mean  by  cracking  the  bello- 
tas?” demanded  I of  Martin  of  Rivadeo. 

“ Did  your  worship  never  hear  of  the  seven  bel- 
lotas?” replied  our  guide.  “I  can  scarcely  tell 
you  what  they  are,  as  I have  never  seen  them  ; I 
believe  they  are  seven  hills  which  we  have  to 
cross,  and  are  called  bellotas  from  some  resem- 
blance to  acorns  which  it  is  fancied  they  bear.  I 
have  often  heard  of  these  acorns,  and  am  not 
sorry  that  I have  now  an  opportunity  of  seeing 
them,  though  it  is  said  that  they  are  rather  hard 
things  for  horses  to  digest.” 

The  Asturian  mountains  in  this  part  rise  to  a 
considerable  altitude.  They  consist  for  the  most 
part  of  dark  granite,  covered  here  and  there  with 
a thin  layer  of  earth.  They  approach  very  near 
to  the  sea,  to  which  they  slope  down  in  broken 
ridges,  between  which  are  deep  and  precipitous 
defiles,  each  with  its  rivulet,  the  tribute  of  the 
hills  to  the  salt  flood.  The  road  traverses 
these  defiles.  There  are  seven  of  them,  which 


VOL.  II. 


p 


314 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIV. 


are  called,  in  the  language  of  the  country, 
Las  siete  bellotas.  Of  all  these,  the  most 
terrible  is  the  midmost,  down  which  rolls  an 
impetuous  torrent.  At  the  upper  end  of  it 
rises  a precipitous  wall  of  rock,  black  as  soot, 
to  the  height  of  several  hundred  yards  ; its  top, 
as  we  passed,  was  enveloped  with  a veil  of 
bretima.  From  this  gorge  branch  off,  on  either 
side,  small  dingles  or  glens,  some  of  them  so 
overgrown  with  trees  and  copsewood,  that  the 
eye  is  unable  to  penetrate  the  obscurity  beyond  a 
few  yards. 

66  Fine  places  would  some  of  these  dingles 
prove  for  hermitages,”  said  I to  Martin  of  Ri- 
vadeo.  “ Holy  men  might  lead  a happy  life 
there  on  roots  and  water,  and  pass  many  years 
absorbed  in  heavenly  contemplation,  without  ever 
being  disturbed  by  the  noise  and  turmoil  of  the 
world.” 

“ True,  your  worship,”  replied  Martin  ; “ and 
perhaps  on  that  very  account  there  are  no  her- 
mitages in  the  barrancos  of  the  seven  bellotas. 
Our  hermits  had  little  inclination  for  roots  and 
water,  and  had  no  kind  of  objection  to  be  occa- 


Ch.  XIV.] 


HERMITS. 


315 


sionally  disturbed  in  their  meditations.  Vaya ! 
I never  yet  saw  a hermitage  that  was  not  hard 
by  some  rich  town  or  village,  or  was  not  a re- 
gular resort  for  all  the  idle  people  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. Hermits  are  not  fond  of  living  in 
dingles,  amongst  wolves  and  foxes ; for  how  in 
that  case  could  they  dispose  of  their  poultry  ? 
A hermit  of  my  acquaintance  left,  when  he  died, 
a fortune  of  seven  hundred  dollars  to  his  niece, 
the  greatest  part  of  which  he  scraped  up  by 
fattening  turkeys.” 

At  the  top  of  this  bellota  we  found  a wretched 
ventd,  where  we  refreshed  ourselves,  and  then 
continued  our  journey.  Late  in  the  afternoon 
we  cleared  the  last  of  these  difficult  passes.  The 
wind  began  now  to  rise,  bearing  on  its  wings  a 
drizzling  rain.  We  passed  by  Soto  Luino,  and 
shaping  our  course  through  a wild  but  picturesque 
country,  we  found  ourselves  about  nightfall  at 
the  foot  of  a steep  hill,  up  which  led  a narrow 
bridle-way,  amidst  a grove  of  lofty  trees.  Long- 
before  we  had  reached  the  top  it  had  become 
quite  dark,  and  the  rain  had  increased  consider- 
ably. We  stumbled  along  in  the  obscurity,  lead- 


316 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIV. 


ing  our  horses,  which  were  occasionally  down  on 
their  knees,  owing  to  the  slipperiness  of  the 
path.  At  last  we  accomplished  the  ascent  in 
safety,  and  pushing  briskly  forward,  we  found 
ourselves,  in  about  half  an  hour,  at  the  entrance 
of  Muros,  a large  village  situated  just  on  the 
declivity  of  the  farther  side  of  the  hill. 

A blazing  fire  in  the  posada  soon  dried  our 
wet  garments,  and  in  some  degree  recompensed 
us  for  the  fatigues  which  we  had  undergone  in 
scrambling  up  the  bellotas.  A rather  singular 
place  was  this  same  posada  of  Muros.  It  was 
a large  rambling  house,  with  a spacious  kitchen, 
or  common  room,  on  the  ground  floor.  Above 
stairs  was  a large  dining  apartment,  with  an  im- 
mense oak  table,  and  furnished  with  cumbrous 
leathern  chairs  with  high  backs,  apparently  three 
centuries  old  at  least.  Communicating  with  this 
apartment  was  a wooden  gallery,  open  to  the  air, 
which  led  to  a small  chamber,  in  which  I was 
destined  to  sleep,  and  which  contained  an  old- 
fashioned  tester-bed  with  curtains.  It  was  just 
one  of  those  inns  which  romance  writers  are  so 
fond  of  introducing  in  their  descriptions,  espe- 


Ch.  XIV.]  THE  ASTURIAN’S  TALE.  317 

cially  when  the  scene  of  adventure  lies  in  Spain. 
The  host  was  a talkative  Asturian. 

The  wind  still  howled,  and  the  rain  descended 
in  torrents.  I sat  before  the  lire  in  a very  drowsy 
state,  from  which  I was  presently  aroused  by  the 
conversation  of  the  host.  66  Senor,”  said  he,  66  it 
is  now  three  years  since  I beheld  foreigners  in 
my  house.  I remember  it  was  about  this  time  of 
the  year,  and  just  such  a night  as  this,  that  two 
men  on  horseback  arrived  here.  What  was  sin- 
gular, they  came  without  any  guide.  Two  more 
strange  looking  individuals  I never  yet  beheld 
with  eye-sight.  I shall  never  forget  them.  The 
one  was  as  tall  as  a giant,  with  much  tawny  mous- 
tache, like  the  coat  of  a badger,  growing  about  his 
mouth.  He  had  a huge  ruddy  face,  and  looked 
dull  and  stupid,  as  he  no  doubt  was,  for  when  I 
spoke  to  him,  he  did  not  seem  to  understand, 
and  answered  in  a jabber,  valgame  Dios  ! so  wild 
and  strange,  that  I remained  staring  at  him  with 
mouth  and  eyes  open.  The  other  was  neither 
tall  nor  red-faced,  nor  had  he  hair  about  his 
mouth,  and,  indeed,  he  had  very  little  upon  his 
head.  He  was  very  diminutive,  and  looked  like 


318 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIV. 


a jorobado  [hunchback) ; but,  valgame  Dios ! 
such  eyes,  like  wild  cats’,  so  sharp  and  full  of 
malice.  He  spoke  as  good  Spanish  as  I myself 
do,  and  yet  he  was  no  Spaniard.  A Spaniard 
never  looked  like  that  man.  He  was  dressed  in 
a zamarra,  with  much  silver  and  embroidery,  and 
wore  an  Andalusian  hat,  and  I soon  found  that  he 
was  master,  and  that  the  other  was  servant. 

“ Valgame  Dios  ! what  an  evil  disposition  had 
that  same  foreign  jorobado,  and  yet  he  had  much 
grace,  much  humour,  and  said  occasionally  to 
me  such  comical  things,  that  I was  fit  to  die  of 
laughter.  So  he  sat  down  to  supper  in  the  room 
above,  and  I may  as  well  tell  you  here,  that  he 
slept  in  the  same  chamber  where  your  worship 
will  sleep  to-night,  and  his  servant  waited  behind 
his  chair.  Well,  I had  curiosity,  so  I sat  my- 
self down  at  the  table  too,  without  asking  leave. 
Why  should  I ? I was  in  my  own  house,  and  an 
Asturian  is  fit  company  for  a king,  and  is  often 
of  better  blood.  Oh,  what  a strange  supper  was 
that.  If  the  servant  made  the  slightest  mistake 
in  helping  him,  up  would  start  the  jorobado, 
jump  upon  his  chair,  and  seizing  the  big  giant 


Ch.  XIV.] 


STRANGE  GUESTS. 


319 


by  the  hair,  would  cuff  him  on  both  sides  of  his 
face,  till  I was  afraid  his  teeth  would  have  fallen 
out.  The  giant,  however,  did  not  seem  to  care 
about  it  much.  He  was  used  to  it,  I suppose. 
Valgame  Dios ! if  he  had  been  a Spaniard,  he 
would  not  have  submitted  to  it  so  patiently. 
But  what  surprised  me  most  was,  that  after  beat- 
ing his  servant,  the  master  would  sit  down,  and 
the  next  moment  would  begin  conversing  and 
laughing  with  him  as  if  nothing  had  happened, 
and  the  giant  also  would  laugh  and  converse 
with  his  master,  for  all  the  world  as  if  he  had 
not  been  beaten. 

“ You  may  well  suppose,  Sehor,  that  I under- 
stood nothing  of  their  discourse,  for  it  was  all 
in  that  strange  unchristian  tongue  in  which  the 
giant  answered  me  when  I spoke  to  him;  the 
sound  of  it  is  still  ringing  in  my  ears.  It  was 
nothing  like  other  languages.  Not  like  Bascuen, 
not  like  the  language  in  which  your  worship 
speaks  to  my  namesake  Signor  Antonio  here. 
Yalgame  Dios ! I can  compare  it  to  nothing  but 
the  sound  a person  makes  when  he  rinces  his 
mouth  with  water.  There  is  one  word  which  I think 


320 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIV' 


I still  remember,  for  it  was  continually  proceed- 
ing from  the  giant’s  lips,  but  his  master  never 
used  it. 

“ But  the  strangest  part  of  the  story  is  yet  to 
be  told.  The  supper  was  ended,  and  the  night 
was  rather  advanced,  the  rain  still  beat  against 
the  windows,  even  as  it  does  at  this  moment. 
Suddenly  the  jorobado  pulled  out  his  watch. 
Yalgame  Dios,  such  a watch ! I will  tell  you 
one  thing,  Senor,  that  I could  purchase  all  the 
Asturias,  and  Muros  besides,  with  the  brilliants 
which  shone  about  the  sides  of  that  same  watch : 
the  room  wanted  no  lamp,  I trow,  so  great  was 
the  splendour  which  they  cast.  So  the  jorobado 
looked  at  his  watch,  and  then  said  to  me,  I shall 
go  to  rest.  He  then  took  the  lamp  and  went 
through  the  gallery  to  his  room,  followed  by  his 
big  servant!  Well,  Senor,  I cleared  away  the 
things,  and  then  waited  below  for  the  servant, 
for  whom  I had  prepared  a comfortable  bed, 
close  by  my  own.  Senor,  I waited  patiently  for 
an  hour,  till  at  last  my  patience  was  exhausted, 
and  I ascended  to  the  supper  apartment,  and 
passed  through  the  gallery  till  I came  to  the 


Ch.  XIV.] 


THE  BIG  SERVANT. 


321 


door  of  the  strange  guest.  Serior,  what  do  you 
think  I saw  at  the  door  ? ” 

“ How  should  I know  ? ” I replied.  “ His 
riding  boots,  perhaps.” 

“ No,  Senor,  I did  not  see  his  riding  boots ; 
but,  stretched  on  the  floor  with  his  head  against 
the  door,  so  that  it  was  impossible  to  open  it 
without  disturbing  him,  lay  the  big  servant  fast 
asleep,  his  immense  legs  reaching  nearly  the 
whole  length  of  the  gallery.  I crossed  myself, 
as  well  I might,  for  the  wind  was  howling  even 
as  it  is  now,  and  the  rain  was  rushing  down  into 
the  gallery  in  torrents;  yet  there  lay  the  big 
servant  fast  asleep,  without  any  covering,  without 
any  pillow,  not  even  a log,  stretched  out  before 
his  master’s  door. 

“ Senor,  I got  little  rest  that  night,  for  I said  to 
myself,  I have  evil  wizards  in  my  house,  folks 
who  are  not  human.  Once  or  twice  I went  up 
and  peeped  into  the  gallery,  but  there  still  lay 
the  big  servant  fast  asleep,  so  I crossed  myself 
and  returned  to  my  bed  again.” 

“ Well,”  said  I,  “ and  what  occurred  next  day?” 

“ Nothing  particular  occurred  next  day:  the  jo- 

p 3 


322 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN.  [Ch.  XIV. 


robado  came  down  and  said  comical  things  to  me 
in  good  Spanish,  and  the  big  servant  came  down, 
but  whatever  he  said,  and  he  did  not  say  much, 
I understood  not,  for  it  was  in  that  disastrous 
jabber.  They  stayed  with  me  throughout  the  day 
till  after  supper-time,  and  then  the  jorobado  gave 
me  a gold  ounce,  and  mounting  their  horses,  they 
both  departed  as  strangely  as  they  had  come,  in 
the  dark  night,  I know  not  whither.” 

“ Is  that  all?”  I demanded. 

“ No,  Senor,  it  is  not  all;  for  I was  right  in 
supposing  them  evil  brujos : the  very  next  day 
an  express  arrived  and  a great  search  was  made 
after  them,  and  I was  arrested  for  having  har- 
boured them.  This  occurred  just  after  the  pre- 
sent wars  had  commenced.  It  was  said  they 
were  spies  and  emissaries  of  I don’t  know  what 
nation,  and  that  they  had  been  in  all  parts  of  the 
Asturias,  holding  conferences  with  some  of  the 
disaffected.  They  escaped,  however,  and  were 
never  heard  of  more,  though  the  animals  which 
they  rode  were  found  without  their  riders,  wan- 
dering amongst  the  hills ; they  were  common 
ponies,  and  were  of  no  value.  As  for  the  brujos, 


Ch.  XIV.] 


BATUSCHCA. 


323 


it  is  believed  that  they  embarked  in  some  small 
vessel  which  was  lying  concealed  in  one  of  the 
rias  of  the  coast.” 

Myself. — What  was  the  word  which  you  con- 
tinually heard  proceeding  from  the  lips  of  the 
big  servant,  and  which  you  think  you  can  re- 
member ? 

Host. — Sen  or,  it  is  now  three  years  since  I 
heard  it,  and  at  times  I can  remember  it  and  at 
others  not ; sometimes  I have  started  up  in  my 
sleep  repeating  it.  Stay,  Senor,  I have  it  now  at 
the  point  of  my  tongue  : it  was  Patusca. 

Myself. — Batuschca,  you  mean ; the  men  were 
Russians. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


OVIEDO. — THE  TEN  GENTLEMEN. — THE  SWISS  AGAIN.  — MODEST 
REQUEST THE  ROBBERS. — EPISCOPAL  BENEVOLENCE. — THE  CA- 

THEDRAL.— PORTRAIT  OF  FEIJOO. 

1 must  now  take  a considerable  stride  in  my 
journey,  no  less  than  from  Muros  to  Oviedo, 
contenting  myself  with  observing,  that  we  pro- 
ceeded from  Muros  to  Velez,  and  from  thence  to 
Giyon,  where  our  guide  Martin  bade  us  farewell, 
and  returned  with  his  mare  to  Rivadeo.  The 
honest  fellow  did  not  part  without  many  ex- 
pressions of  regret,  indeed  he  even  expressed  a 
desire  that  I should  take  him  and  his  mare  into 
my  service ; “ for,”  said  he,  u I have  a great  de- 
sire to  run  through  all  Spain,  and  even  the  world; 
and  I am  sure  I shall  never  have  a better  oppor- 
tunity than  by  attaching  myself  to  your  worship’s 
skirts.”  On  my  reminding  him,  however,  of  his 
wife  and  family,  for  he  had  both,  he  said,  “ True, 


Ch.  XV.]. 


OVIEDO. 


325 


true,  I had  forgotten  them : happy  the  guide 
whose  only  wife  and  family  are  a mare  and 
foal.” 

Oviedo  is  about  three  leagues  from  Giyon. 
Antonio  rode  the  horse,  whilst  I proceeded  thither 
in  a kind  of  diligence  which  runs  daily  between 
the  two  towns.  The  road  is  good,  but  moun- 
tainous. I arrived  safely  at  the  capital  of  the 
Asturias,  although  at  a rather  unpropitious  sea- 
son, for  the  din  of  war  was  at  the  gate,  and  there 
was  the  cry  of  the  captains  and  the  shouting. 
Castile,  at  the  time  of  which  I am  writing,  was 
in  the  hands  of  the  Carlists,  who  had  captured 
and  plundered  Valladolid  in  much  the  same  man- 
ner as  they  had  Segovia  some  time  before.  They 
were  every  day  expected  to  march  on  Oviedo, 
in  which  case  they  might  perhaps  have  expe- 
rienced some  resistance,  a considerable  body  of 
troops  being  stationed  there,  who  had  erected 
some  redoubts,  and  strongly  fortified  several  of 
the  convents,  especially  that  of  Santa  Clara  de 
la  Vega.  All  minds  were  in  a state  of  feverish 
anxiety  and  suspense,  more  especially  as  no  in- 
telligence arrived  from  Madrid,  which  by  the 


326 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XV. 


last  accounts  was  said  to  be  occupied  by  the 
bands  of  Cabrera  and  Palillos. 

So  it  came  to  pass  that  one  night  I found  my- 
self in  the  ancient  town  of  Oviedo,  in  a very 
large,  scantily  furnished,  and  remote  room  in  an 
ancient  posada,  formerly  a palace  of  the  counts 
of  Santa  Cruz.  It  was  past  ten,  and  the  rain 
was  descending  in  torrents.  I was  writing,  but 
suddenly  ceased  on  hearing  numerous  footsteps 
ascending  the  creaking  stairs  which  led  to  my 
apartment.  The  door  was  flung  open,  and  in 
walked  nine  men  of  tall  stature,  marshalled  by  a 
little  hunchbacked  personage.  They  were  all 
muffled  in  the  long  cloaks  of  Spain,  but  I in- 
stantly knew  by  their  demeanour  that  they  were 
Caballeros,  or  gentlemen.  They  placed  them- 
selves in  a rank  before  the  table  where  I was 
sitting.  Suddenly  and  simultaneously  they  all 
flung  back  their  cloaks,  and  I perceived  that 
every  one  bore  a book  in  his  hand ; a book  which 
I knew  full  well.  After  a pause,  which  I was 
unable  to  break,  for  I sat  lost  in  astonishment, 
and  almost  conceived  myself  to  be  visited  by 
apparitions,  the  hunchback,  advancing  some- 


Ch.  XV.] 


THE  TEN  GENTLEMEN. 


327 


what  before  the  rest,  said  in  soft  silvery  tones, 
“ Senor  Cavalier,  was  it  you  who  brought  this 
book  to  the  Asturias  ? ” I now  supposed  that 
they  were  the  civil  authorities  of  the  place  come 
to  take  me  into  custody,  and,  rising  from  my 
seat,  I exclaimed,  “ It  certainly  was  I,  and  it  is 
my  glory  to  have  done  so ; the  book  is  the  New 
Testament  of  God  : I wish  it  was  in  my  power  to 
bring  a million.”  “ I heartily  wish  so  too,”  said 
the  little  personage  with  a sigh.  “ Be  under  no 
apprehension,  Sir  Cavalier,  these  gentlemen  are 
my  friends ; we  have  just  purchased  these  books 
in  the  shop  where  you  placed  them  for  sale,  and 
have  taken  the  liberty  of  calling  upon  you,  in 
order  to  return  you  our  thanks  for  the  treasure 
you  have  brought  us.  I hope  you  can  furnish  us 
with  the  Old  Testament  also.”  I replied  that  I 
was  sorry  to  inform  him  that  at  present  it  was 
entirely  out  of  my  power  to  comply  with  his  wish, 
as  I had  no  Old  Testaments  in  my  possession, 
but  did  not  despair  of  procuring  some  speedily 
from  England.  He  then  asked  me  a great  many 
questions  concerning  my  biblical  travels  in  Spain, 
and  my  success,  and  the  views  entertained  by  the 


328 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XV. 


Society  with  respect  to  Spain,  adding  that  he  hoped 
we  should  pay  particular  attention  to  the  Asturias, 
which  he  assured  me  was  the  best  ground  in  the 
Peninsula  for  our  labour.  After  about  half  an 
hour’s  conversation,  he  suddenly  said,  in  the 
English  language,  “ Good  night,  Sir,”  wrapped 
his  cloak  around  him,  and  walked  out  as  he  had 
come.  His  companions,  who  had  hitherto  not 
uttered  a word,  all  repeated  “ Good  night,  Sir,” 
and,  adjusting  their  cloaks,  followed  him. 

In  order  to  explain  this  strange  scene,  I must 
state  that  in  the  morning  I had  visited  the  petty 
bookseller  of  the  place,  Longoria,  and  having  ar- 
range^ preliminaries  with  him,  I sent  him  in  the 
evening  a package  of  forty  Testaments,  all  I pos- 
sessed, with  some  advertisements.  At  the  time 
he  assured  me  that,  though  he  was  willing  to  un- 
dertake the  sale,  there  was,  nevertheless,  not  a 
prospect  of  success,  as  a whole  month  had  elapsed 
since  he  had  sold  a book  of  any  description,  on 
account  of  the  uncertainty  of  the  times,  and  the 
poverty  which  pervaded  the  land ; I therefore 
felt  much  dispirited.  This  incident,  however,  ad- 
monished me  not  to  be  cast  down  when  things 


Ch.  XV.] 


THE  SWISS  AGAIN. 


329 


look  gloomiest,  as  the  hand  of  the  Lord  is  generally 
then  most  busy ; that  men  may  learn  to  perceive, 
that  whatever  good  is  accomplished  is  not  their 
work  but  His. 

Two  or  three  days  after  this  adventure,  I was 
once  more  seated  in  my  large  scantily  furnished 
room ; it  was  about  ten,  of  a dark  melancholy 
morning,  and  the  autumnal  rain  was  again  falling. 
I had  just  breakfasted,  and  was  about  to  sit  down 
to  my  journal,  when  the  door  was  flung  open  and 
in  bounded  Antonio. 

“ Mon  maitre,”  said  he,  quite  breathless,  “who 
do  you  think  has  arrived  ? ” 

“ The  pretender,  I suppose,”  said  I,  in  some 
trepidation ; “ if  so,  we  are  prisoners.” 

“ Bah,  bah  !”  said  Antonio,  “ it  is  not  the  pre- 
tender, but  one  worth  twenty  of  him ; it  is  the 
Swiss  of  Saint  James.” 

“ Benedict  Mol,  the  Swiss  !”  said  I.  “ What ! 
has  he  found  the  treasure  ? But  how  did  he 
come  ? How  is  he  dressed  ? ” 

“ Mon  maitre,”  said  Antonio,  “ he  came  on  foot 
if  we  may  judge  by  his  shoes,  through  which  his 


330 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XV. 


toes  are  sticking ; and  as  for  his  dress,  he  is  in 
most  villanous  apparel.” 

“ There  must  be  some  mystery  in  this,”  said  I ; 
“ where  is  he  at  present  ? ” 

“ Below,  mon  maitre,”  replied  Antonio  ; “ he 
came  in  quest  of  us.  But  I no  sooner  saw  him, 
than  I hurried  away  to  let  you  know.” 

In  a few  minutes  Benedict  Mol  found  his  way 
up  stairs  ; he  was,  as  Antonio  had  remarked,  in 
most  villanous  apparel,  and  nearly  barefooted ; 
his  old  Andalusian  hat  was  dripping  with  rain. 

“ Och,  lieber  herr,”  said  Benedict,  “ how  re- 
joiced I am  to  see  you  again.  Oh,  the  sight 
of  your  countenance  almost  repays  me  for  all  the 
miseries  I have  undergone  since  I parted  with 
you  at  Saint  James.” 

Myself ‘ — I can  scarcely  believe  that  I really 
see  you  here  at  Oviedo.  What  motive  can  have 
induced  you  to  come  to  such  an  out-of-the-way 
place  from  such  an  immense  distance. 

Benedict . — Lieber  herr,  I will  sit  down  and  tell 
you  all  that  has  befallen  me.  Some  few  days 
after  I saw  you  last,  the  canonigo  persuaded  me 


Ch.  XV.] 


MODEST  REQUEST. 


831 


to  go  to  the  captain-general  to  apply  for  permis- 
sion to  disinter  the  schatz,  and  also  to  crave  as- 
sistance. So  I saw  the  captain -general,  who  at 
first  received  me  very  kindly,  asked  me  several 
questions,  and  told  me  to  come  again.  So  I con- 
tinued visiting  him  till  he  would  see  me  no 
longer,  and  do  what  I might  I could  not  obtain 
a glance  of  him.  The  canon  now  became  im- 
patient, more  especially  as  he  had  given  me  a 
few  pesetas  out  of  the  charities  of  the  church. 
He  frequently  called  me  a bribon  and  impostor. 
At  last,  one  morning  I went  to  him,  and  said  that 
I proposed  to  return  to  Madrid,  in  order  to  lay 
the  matter  before  the  government,  and  requested 
that  he  would  give  me  a certificate  to  the  effect 
that  I had  performed  a pilgrimage  to  Saint  James, 
which  I imagined  would  be  of  assistance  to  me 
upon  the  way,  as  it  would  enable  me  to  beg  with 
some  colour  of  authority.  He  no  sooner  heard 
this  request,  than,  without  saying  a word  or  allow- 
ing me  a moment  to  put  myself  on  my  defence, 
he  sprang  upon  me  like  a tiger,  grasping  my 
throat  so  hard  that  I thought  he  would  have 
strangled  me.  I am  a Swiss,  however,  and  a man 


33*2 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XV. 


of  Lucerne,  and  when  I had  recovered  myself  a 
little,  I had  no  difficulty  in  flinging  him  off ; I 
then  threatened  him  with  my  staff  and  went  away. 
He  followed  me  to  the  gate  with  the  most  horrid 
curses,  saying  that  if  I presumed  to  return  again, 
he  would  have  me  thrown  at  once  into  prison  as 
a thief  and  a heretic.  So  I went  in  quest  of  your- 
self, lieber  herr,  but  they  told  me  that  you  were 
departed  for  Coruna;  I then  set  out  for  Coruna 
after  you. 

Myself, — And  what  befell  you  on  the  road  ? 

Benedict, — I will  tell  you  : about  half-way  be- 
tween Saint  James  and  Coruna,  as  I was  walking 
along,  thinking  of  the  schatz,  I heard  a loud  gal- 
loping, and  looking  around  me  I saw  two  men  on 
horseback  coming  across  the  field  with  the  swift- 
ness of  the  wind,  and  making  directly  for  me. 
Lieber  Gott,  said  I,  these  are  thieves,  these  are 
factious  ; and  so  they  were.  They  came  up  to 
me  in  a moment  and  bade  me  stand,  so  I flung 
down  my  staff,  took  off  my  hat  and  saluted  them. 
66  Good  day,  Caballeros,”  said  I to  them.  “ Good 
day,  countryman,”  said  they  to  me,  and  then  we 
stood  staring  at  each  other  for  more  than  a mi- 


Ch.  XV.] 


THE  ROBBERS. 


333 


nute.  Lieber  himmel,  I never  saw  sucli  robbers  ; 
so  finely  dressed,  so  well  armed,  and  mounted  so 
bravely  on  two  fiery  little  hakkas,  that  looked  as 
if  they  could  have  taken  wing  and  flown  up  into 
the  clouds ! So  we  continued  staring  at  each 
other,  till  at  last  one  asked  me  who  I was,  whence 
I came,  and  where  I was  going.  “ Gentlemen,” 
said  I,  “ I am  a Swiss,  I have  been  to  Saint 
James  to  perform  a religious  vow,  and  am  now  re- 
turning to  my  own  country.”  I said  not  a word 
about  the  treasure,  for  I was  afraid  that  they  would 
have  shot  me  at  once,  conceiving  that  I carried 
part  of  it  about  me.  “ Have  you  any  money  ?” 
they  demanded.  “ Gentlemen,”  I replied,  “ you 
see  how  I travel  on  foot,  with  my  shoes  torn  to 
pieces ; I should  not  do  so  if  I had  money.  I 
will  not  deceive  you,  however,  I have  a peseta  and 
a few  cuartos,”  and  thereupon  I took  out  what  I 
had  and  offered  it  to  them.  “ Fellow,”  said  they, 
“ we  are  Caballeros  of  Galicia,  and  do  not  take 
pesetas,  much  less  cuartos.  Of  what  opinion  are 
you  ? Are  you  for  the  queen  ?”  “ No,  gentlemen,” 
said  I,  “ I am  not  for  the  queen,  but,  at  the  same 
time,  allow  me  to  tell  you  that  I am  not  for  the 


334 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XV. 


king  either ; I know  nothing  about  the  matter ; I 
am  a Swiss,  and  fight  neither  for  nor  against  any 
body  unless  I am  paid.”  This  made  them  laugh, 
and  then  they  questioned  me  about  Saint  James, 
and  the  troops  there,  and  the  captain-general ; 
and  not  to  disoblige  them,  I told  them  all  I knew 
and  much  more.  Then  one  of  them,  who  looked 
the  fiercest  and  most  determined,  took  his  trom- 
bone in  his  hand,  and  pointing  it  at  me,  said, 
“ Had  you  been  a Spaniard,  we  would  have 
blown  your  head  to  shivers,  for  we  should  have 
thought  you  a spy,  but  we  see  you  are  a foreigner, 
and  believe  what  you  have  said ; take,  therefore, 
this  peseta  and  go  your  way,  but  beware  that  you 
tell  nobody  any  thing  about  us,  for  if  you  do, 
carracho  ! ” He  then  discharged  his  trombone  just 
over  my  head,  so  that  for  a moment  I thought 
myself  shot,  and  then  with  an  awful  shout,  they 
both  galloped  away,  their  horses  leaping  over  the 
barrancos,  as  if  possessed  with  many  devils. 

Myself. — And  what  happened  to  you  on  your 
arrival  at  Coruna  ? 

Benedict. — When  I arrived  at  Coruna,  I in- 
quired after  yourself,  lieber  herr,  and  they  in- 


Ch.  XV.]  EPISCOPAL  BENEVOLENCE. 


335 


formed  me  that,  only  the  day  before  my  arrival, 
you  had  departed  for  Oviedo  : and  when  I heard 
that,  my  heart  died  within  me,  for  I was  now  at 
the  far  end  of  Galicia,  without  a friend  to  help 
me.  For  a day  or  two  I knew  not  what  to  do  ; at 
last  I determined  to  make  for  the  frontier  of 
France,  passing  through  Oviedo  in  the  way,  where 
I hoped  to  see  you  and  ask  counsel  of  you.  So 
I begged  and  bettled  among  the  Germans  of 
Coruna.  I,  however,  got  very  little  from  them, 
only  a few  cuarts,  less  than  the  thieves  had  given 
me  on  the  road  from  Saint  James,  and  with  these 
I departed  for  the  Asturias  by  the  way  of  Mon- 
donedo.  Och,  what  a town  is  that,  full  of  canons, 
priests,  and  pfaffen,  all  of  them  more  Carlist  than 
Carlos  himself. 

One  day  I went  to  the  bishop’s  palace  and 
spoke  to  him,  telling  him  I was  a pilgrim  from 
Saint  James,  and  requesting  assistance.  He  told 
me,  however,  that  he  could  not  relieve  me,  and 
as  for  my  being  a pilgrim  from  Saint  James,  he 
was  glad  of  it,  and  hoped  that  it  would  be  of 
service  to  my  soul.  So  I left  Mondonedo,  and 
got  amongst  the  wild  mountains,  begging  and 


336 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XV. 


bettling  at  the  door  of  every  ehoza  that  I passed, 
telling  all  I saw  that  I was  a pilgrim  from  Saint 
James,  and  showing  my  passport  in  proof  that  I 
had  been  there.  Lieber  herr,  no  person  gave  me  a 
cuart,  nor  even  a piece  of  broa,  and  both  Gallegans 
and  Asturians  laughed  at  Saint  James,  and  told 
me  that  his  name  was  no  longer  a passport  in 
Spain.  I should  have  starved  if  I had  not  some- 
times plucked  an  ear  or  two  out  of  the  maize 
fields ; I likewise  gathered  grapes  from  the  parras 
and  berries  from  the  brambles,  and  in  this  manner 
I subsisted  till  I arrived  at  the  bellotas,  where  I 
slaughtered  a stray  kid  which  I met,  and  de- 
voured part  of  the  flesh  raw,  so  great  was  my 
hunger.  It  made  me,  however,  very  ill,  and  for 
two  days  I lay  in  a barranco  half  dead  and  unable 
to  help  myself ; it  was  a mercy  that  I was  not  de- 
voured by  the  wolves.  I then  struck  across  the 
country  for  Oviedo : how  I reached  it  I do  not 
know ; I was  like  one  walking  in  a dream.  Last 
night  I slept  in  an  empty  hogsty  about  two 
leagues  from  here,  and  ere  I left  it,  I fell  down 
on  my  knees  and  prayed  to  God  that  I might  find 
you,  lieber  herr,  for  you  were  my  last  hope. 


Ch.  XV.] 


THE  CATHEDRAL. 


337 


Myself. — And  what  do  you  propose  to  do  at 
present  ? 

Benedict . — What  can  I say,  lieber  herr?  I 
know  not  what  to  do.  I will  be  guided  in  every 
thing  by  your  counsel. 

Myself — I shall  remain  at  Oviedo  a few  days 
longer,  during  which  time  you  can  lodge  at  this 
posada,  and  endeavour  to  recover  from  the  fatigue 
of  your  disastrous  journeys;  perhaps  before  I 
depart,  we  may  hit  on  some  plan  to  extricate  you 
from  your  present  difficulties. 

Oviedo  contains  about  fifteen  thousand  inhabit- 
ants. It  is  picturesquely  situated  between  two 
mountains,  Morcin  and  Naranco ; the  former  is 
very  high  and  rugged,  and  during  the  greater 
part  of  the  year  is  covered  with  snow ; the  sides 
of  the  latter  are  cultivated  and  planted  with  vines. 
The  principal  ornament  of  the  town  is  the  ca- 
thedral, the  tower  of  which  is  exceedingly  lofty, 
and  is  perhaps  one  of  the  purest  specimens  of 
Gothic  architecture  at  present  in  existence.  The 
interior  of  the  cathedral  is  neat  and  appropriate, 
but  simple  and  unadorned.  I observed  but  one 
picture,  the  Conversion  of  Saint  Paul.  One  of 


VOL.  II. 


Q 


338 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XV. 


the  chapels  is  a cemetery,  in  which  rest  the  bones 
of  eleven  Gothic  kings ; to  whose  souls  be  peace. 

I bore  a letter  of  recommendation  from  Co- 
runa to  a merchant  of  Oviedo.  This  person  re- 
ceived me  very  courteously,  and  generally  de- 
voted some  portion  of  every  day  to  showing  me 
the  remarkable  things  of  Oviedo. 

One  morning  he  thus  addressed  me : “ You 
have  doubtless  heard  of  Feijoo,  the  celebrated 
philosophic  monk  of  the  order  of  Saint  Benedict, 
whose  writings  have  so  much  tended  to  remove 
the  popular  fallacies  and  superstitions  so  long 
cherished  in  Spain ; he  is  buried  in  one  of  our 
convents,  where  he  passed  a considerable  portion 
of  his  life.  Come  with  me  and  I will  show  you 
his  portrait.  Carlos  Tercero,  our  great  king,  sent 
his  own  painter  from  Madrid  to  execute  it.  It  is 
now  in  the  possession  of  a friend  of  mine,  Don 
Ramon  Valdez,  an  advocate.” 

Thereupon  he  led  me  to  the  house  of  Don 
Ramon  Valdez,  who  very  politely  exhibited  the 
portrait  of  Feijoo.  It  was  circular  in  shape,  about 
a foot  in  diameter,  and  was  surrounded  by  a little 
brass  frame,  something  like  the  rim  of  a barber’s 


Gh.  XV.] 


PORTRAIT  OF  FEIJOO. 


339 


basin.  The  countenance  was  large  and  massive 
but  fine,  the  eyebrows  knit,  the  eyes  sharp  and 
penetrating,  nose  aquiline.  On  the  head  was  a 
silken  skull-cap ; the  collar  of  the  coat  or  vest  was 
just  perceptible.  The  painting  was  decidedly 
good,  and  struck  me  as  being  one  of  the  very 
best  specimens  of  modern  Spanish  art  which  I 
had  hitherto  seen. 

A day  or  two  after  this  I said  to  Benedict 
Mol,  “ to-morrow  I start  from  hence  for  Santan- 
der. It  is  therefore  high  time  that  you  decide 
upon  some  course,  whether  to  return  to  Madrid 
or  to  make  the  best  of  your  way  to  France,  and 
from  thence  proceed  to  your  own  country.” 

“ Lieber  herr,”  said  Benedict,  “ I will  follow 
you  to  Santander  by  short  journeys,  for  I am  un- 
able to  make  long  ones  amongst  these  hills;  and 
when  I am  there,  peradventure  I may  find  some 
means  of  passing  into  France.  It  is  a great  com- 
fort, in  my  horrible  journeys,  to  think  that  I am 
travelling  over  the  ground  which  yourself  have 
trodden,  and  to  hope  that  I am  proceeding  to 
rejoin  you  once  more.  This  hope  kept  me  alive 
in  the  bellotas,  and  without  it  I should  never 


340 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XV. 


have  reached  Oviedo.  I will  quit  Spain  as  soon 
as  possible,  and  betake  me  to  Lucerne,  though  it 
is  a hard  thing  to  leave  the  schatz  behind  me  in 
the  land  of  the  Gallegans 

Thereupon  I presented  him  with  a few  dollars. 

“ A strange  man  is  this  Benedict,”  said  An- 
tonio to  me  next  morning,  as,  accompanied  by  a 
guide,  we  sallied  forth  from  Oviedo ; “ a strange 
man,  mon  maitre,  is  this  same  Benedict.  A 
strange  life  has  he  led,  and  a strange  death  he 
will  die, — it  is  written  on  his  countenance. 
That  he  will  leave  Spain  I do  not  believe,  or 
if  he  leave  it,  it  will  be  only  to  return,  for  he  is 
bewitched  about  this  treasure.  Last  night  he 
sent  for  a sorciere,  whom  he  consulted  in  my 
presence ; and  she  told  him  that  he  was  doomed 
to  possess  it,  but  that  first  of  all  he  must  cross 
water.  She  cautioned  him  likewise  against  an 
enemy,  which  he  supposes  must  be  the  canon 
of  Saint  James.  I have  often  heard  people  speak 
of  the  avidity  of  the  Swiss  for  money,  and  here 
is  a proof  it.  I would  not  undergo  what  Bene- 
dict has  suffered  in  these  last  journeys  of  his,  to 
possess  all  the  treasures  in  S£ain.” 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


DEPARTURE  FROM  OVIEDO. — VILLA  VICIOSA. — THE  YOUNG  MAN 
OF  THE  INN.  — ANTONIO’S  TALE.  — THE  GENERAL  AND  HIS 
FAMILY.  — WOFUL  TIDINGS.  TO-MORROW  WE  DIE.  — SAN  VIN- 

CENTE.— SANTANDER. — AN  HARANGUE. — FLINTER  THE  IRISH- 
MAN. 

So  we  left  Oviedo  and  directed  our  course  towards 
Santander.  The  man  who  accompanied  us  as 
guide,  and  from  whom  I hired  the  pony  on  which 
I rode,  had  been  recommended  to  me  by  my 
friend  the  merchant  of  Oviedo.  He  proved,  how- 
ever, a lazy  indolent  fellow ; he  was  generally 
loitering  two  or  three  hundred  yards  in  our  rear, 
and  instead  of  enlivening  the  way  with  song 
and  tale,  like  our  late  guide,  Martin  of  Rivadeo, 
he  scarcely  ever  opened  his  lips,  save  to  tell  us 
not  to  go  so  fast,  or  that  I should  burst  his  pony 
if  I spurred  him  so.  He  was  thievish  withal,  and 
though  he  had  engaged  to  make  the  journey  seco , 
that  is  to  defray  the  charges  of  himself  and  beast, 
he  contrived  throughout  to  keep  both  at  our  ex- 
pense. When  journeying  in  Spain,  it  is  inva- 


342 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XVI. 


riably  the  cheapest  plan  to  agree  to  maintain  the 
guide  and  his  horse  or  mule,  for  by  so  doing  the 
hire  is  diminished  at  least  one  third,  and  the  bills 
upon  the  road  are  seldom  increased ; whereas,  in 
the  other  case,  he  pockets  the  difference,  and  yet 
goes  shot  free,  and  at  the  expense  of  the  traveller, 
through  the  connivance  of  the  innkeepers,  who 
have  a kind  of  fellow  feeling  with  the  guides. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  Villa  Viciosa, 
a small  dirty  town,  at  the  distance  of  eight  leagues 
from  Oviedo : it  stands  beside  a creek  which 
communicates  with  the  Bay  of  Biscay.  It  is 
sometimes  called  La  Capital  de  las  Avellanas,  or 
the  capital  of  the  Filberts,  from  the  immense 
quantity  of  this  fruit  which  is  grown  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood ; and  the  greatest  part  of  which  is  ex- 
ported to  England.  As  we  drew  nigh  we  over- 
took numerous  cars  laden  with  avellanas  proceed- 
ing in  the  direction  of  the  town.  I was  informed 
that  several  small  English  vessels  were  lying  in 
the  harbour.  Singular  as  it  may  seem,  however, 
notwithstanding  we  were  in  the  capital  of  the 
Avellanas,  it  was  with  the  utmost  difficulty  that  I 
procured  a scanty  handful  for  my  dessert,  and  of 


Ch.  XVI.]  THE  YOUNG  MAN  OF  THE  INN.  343 

these  more  than  one  half  were  decayed.  The 
people  of  the  house  informed  me  that  the  nuts 
were  intended  for  exportation,  and  that  they 
never  dreamt  either  of  partaking  of  them  them- 
selves or  of  offering  them  to  their  guests. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  following  day  we 
reached  Colunga,  a beautiful  village  on  a rising 
ground,  thickly  planted  with  chestnut  trees.  It  is 
celebrated,  at  least  in  the  Asturias,  as  being  the 
birthplace  of  Arguelles,  the  father  of  the  Spanish 
constitution. 

As  we  dismounted  at  the  door  of  the  posada, 
where  we  intended  to  refresh  ourselves,  a person 
who  was  leaning  out  of  an  upper  window  uttered 
an  exclamation  and  disappeared.  We  were  yet 
at  the  door,  when  the  same  individual  came  run- 
ning forth  and  cast  himself  on  the  neck  of  Antonio. 
He  was  a good  looking  young  man,  apparently 
about  five  and  twenty,  genteelly  dressed,  with  a 
Montero  cap  on  his  head.  Antonio  looked  at 
him  for  a moment,  and  then  with  a Ah , Monsieur , 
est  ce  bien  vous  ? shook  him  affectionately  by 
the  hand.  The  stranger  then  motioned  him  to 


344  THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN.  [Ch.  XVI. 

follow  him,  and  they  forthwith  proceeded  to  the 
room  above. 

Wondering  what  this  could  mean,  I sat  down 
to  my  morning  repast.  Nearly  an  hour  elapsed, 
and  still  Antonio  did  not  make  his  appearance  ; 
through  the  boards,  however,  which  composed 
the  ceiling  of  the  kitchen  where  I sat,  I could 
hear  the  voices  of  himself  and  his  acquaintance, 
and  thought  that  I could  occasionally  distinguish 
the  sound  of  broken  sobs  and  groans  ; at  last 
there  was  a long  pause.  I became  impatient,  and 
was  about  to  summon  Antonio,  when  he  made 
his  appearance,  but  unaccompanied  by  the  stran- 
ger. “ What,  in  the  name  of  all  that  is  singular,” 
I demanded,  “ have  you  been  about  ? Who  is 
that  man  ?”  “ Mon  maitre,”  said  Antonio,  “ c*est 

un  monsieur  de  ma  connoissance.  With  your  per- 
mission I will  now  take  a mouthful,  and  as  we 
journey  along  I will  tell  you  all  that  I know  of 
him.” 

“ Monsieur,”  said  Antonio,  as  we  rode  out  of 
Colunga,  “ you  are  anxious  to  know  the  history 
of  the  gentleman  whom  you  saw  embrace  me  at 


Ch.  XVI.] 


antonio’s  tale. 


345 


the  inn.  Know,  mon  maitre,  that  these  Carlist 
and  Christino  wars  have  been  the  cause  of  much 
misery  and  misfortune  in  this  country,  but  a 
being  so  thoroughly  unfortunate  as  that  poor 
young  gentleman  of  the  inn,  I do  not  believe  is 
to  be  found  in  Spain,  and  his  misfortunes  pro- 
ceed entirely  from  the  spirit  of  party  and  faction 
which  for  some  time  past  has  been  so  prevalent. 

“ Mon  maitre,  as  I have  often  told  you,  I have 
lived  in  many  houses  and  served  many  masters, 
and  it  chanced  that  about  ten  years  ago  I served 
the  father  of  this  gentleman,  who  was  then  a 
mere  boy.  It  was  a very  high  family,  for  mon- 
sieur the  father  was  a general  in  the  army,  and 
a man  of  large  possessions.  The  family  consisted 
of  the  general,  his  lady,  and  two  sons ; the  young- 
est of  whom  is  the  person  you  have  just  seen, 
the  other  was  several  years  older.  Pardieu ! I felt 
myself  very  comfortable  in  that  house,  and  every 
individual  of  the  family  had  all  kind  of  com- 
plaisance for  me.  It  is  singular  enough,  that 
though  1 have  been  turned  out  of  so  many  fami- 
lies, I was  never  turned  out  of  that ; and  though 
I left  it  thrice,  it  was  of  my  own  free  will.  I be- 

Q 3 


346 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XVI. 


came  dissatisfied  with  the  other  servants,  or  with 
the  dog  or  the  cat.  The  last  time  I left  was  on 
account  of  the  quail  which  was  hung  out  of  the 
window  of  madame,  and  which  waked  me  in  the 
morning  with  its  call.  Eh  bien , mon  maitre , 
things  went  on  in  this  way  during  the  three  years 
that  I continued  in  the  family,  out  and  in;  at 
the  end  of  which  time  it  was  determined  that  the 
young  gentleman  should  travel,  and  it  was  pro- 
posed that  I should  attend  him  as  valet ; this  I 
wished  very  much  to  do.  However,  par  malheur, 
I was  at  this  time  very  much  dissatisfied  with 
madame  his  mother  about  the  quail,  and  I in- 
sisted that  before  I accompanied  him  the  bird 
should  be  slaughtered  for  the  kitchen.  To  this 
madame  would  by  no  means  consent ; and  even 
the  young  gentleman,  who  had  always  taken  my 
part  on  other  occasions,  said  that  I was  unreason- 
able : so  I left  the  house  in  a huff,  and  never 
entered  it  again. 

“ Eh  bien , mon  maitre , the  young  gentleman 
went  upon  his  travels,  and  continued  abroad 
several  years ; and  from  the  time  of  his  de- 
parture until  we  met  him  at  Colunga,  I have 


Ch.  XVI.]  THE  GENERAL  AND  HIS  FAMILY.  347 

not  set  eyes  upon,  nor  indeed  heard  of  him.  I 
have  heard  enough,  however,  of  his  family  ; of 
monsieur  the  father,  of  madame,  and  of  the 
brother,  who  was  an  officer  of  cavalry.  A short 
time  before  the  troubles,  I mean  before  the  death 
of  Ferdinand,  monsieur  the  father  was  ap- 
pointed captain-general  of  Coruna.  Now  mon- 
sieur, though  a good  master,  was  rather  a proud 
man,  and  fond  of  discipline  and  all  that  kind  of 
thing,  and  of  obedience.  He  was,  moreover,  no 
friend  to  the  populace,  to  the  canaille,  and  he 
had  a particular  aversion  to  the  nationals.  So 
when  Ferdinand  died,  it  was  whispered  about  at 
Coruna,  that  the  general  was  no  liberal,  and 
that  he  was  a better  friend  to  Carlos  than  Chris- 
tina. Eh  bien , it  chanced  that  there  was  a grand 
fete,  or  festival  at  Coruna,  on  the  water;  and 
the  nationals  were  there,  and  the  soldiers.  And 
I know  not  how  it  befell,  but  there  was  an  emeute, 
and  the  nationals  laid  hands  on  monsieur  the 
general,  and  tying  a rope  round  his  neck,  flung 
him  overboard  from  the  barge  in  which  he  was, 
and  then  dragged  him  astern  about  the  harbour 


348 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XVI. 


until  he  was  drowned.  They  then  went  to  his 
house  and  pillaged  it,  and  so  ill-treated  madame, 
who  at  that  time  happened  to  be  enceinte,  that 
in  a few  hours  she  expired. 

“ I tell  you  what,  mon  maitre,  when  I heard 
of  the  misfortune  of  madame  and  the  general, 
you  would  scarcely  believe  it,  but  I actually  shed 
tears,  and  was  sorry  that  I had  parted  with  them 
in  unkindness  on  account  of  that  pernicious 
quail. 

“ Eh  bien , mon  maitre , nous  poursuivrons 
notre  histoire.  The  eldest  son,  as  I told  you 
before,  was  a cavalry  officer,  and  a man  of  reso- 
lution, and  when  he  heard  of  the  death  of  his 
father  and  mother,  he  vowed  revenge.  Poor  fel- 
low ! So  what  does  he  do  but  desert,  with  two 
or  three  discontented  spirits  of  his  troop,  and 
going  to  the  frontier  of  Galicia,  he  raised  a small 
faction,  and  proclaimed  Don  Carlos.  For  some 
little  time  he  did  considerable  damage  to  the 
liberals,  burning  and  destroying  their  posses- 
sions, and  putting  to  death  several  nationals  that 
fell  into  his  hands.  However,  this  did  not  last 


Ch.  XVI.] 


WOFUL  TIDINGS. 


349 


long,  his  faction  was  soon  dispersed,  and  he  him- 
self taken  and  hanged,  and  his  head  stuck  on  a 
pole. 

“ Nous  sommes  dejd  presque  au  bout . When 
we  arrived  at  the  inn,  the  young  man  took  me 
above,  as  you  saw,  and  there  for  some  time  he 
could  do  nothing  but  weep  and  sob.  His  story 
is  soon  told : — he  returned  from  his  travels,  and 
the  first  intelligence  which  awaited  him  on  his  ar- 
rival in  Spain  was,  that  his  father  was  drowned, 
his  mother  dead,  and  his  brother  hanged, 
and,  moreover,  all  the  possessions  of  his  family 
confiscated.  This  was  not  all:  wherever  he 
went,  he  found  himself  considered  in  the  light 
of  a factious  and  discontented  person,  and  was 
frequently  assailed  by  the  nationals  with  blows 
of  sabres  and  cudgels.  He  applied  to  his  rela- 
tions, and  some  of  these,  who  were  of  the  Carlist 
persuasion,  advised  him  to  betake  himself  to  the 
army  of  Don  Carlos,  and  the  Pretender  himself, 
who  was  a friend  of  his  father,  and  remembered 
the  services  of  his  brother,  offered  to  give  him  a 
command  in  his  army.  But,  mon  maitre,  as  I 
told  you  before,  he  was  a pacific  young  gentle- 


350 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XVI. 


man,  and  as  mild  as  a lamb,  and  hated  the  idea 
of  shedding  blood.  He  was,  moreover,  not  of 
the  Carlist  opinion,  for  during  his  studies  he  had 
read  books  written  a long  time  ago  by  country- 
men of  mine,  all  about  republics  and  liberties, 
and  the  rights  of  man,  so  that  he  was  much  more 
inclined  to  the  liberal  than  the  Carlist  system  ; 
he  therefore  declined  the  offer  of  Don  Carlos, 
whereupon  all  his  relations  deserted  him,  whilst 
the  liberals  hunted  him  from  one  place  to  another 
like  a wild  beast.  At  last,  he  sold  some  little 
property  which  still  remained  to  him,  and  with 
the  proceeds  he  came  to  this  remote  place  of 
Colunga,  where  no  one  knew  him,  and  where  he 
has  been  residing  for  several  months,  in  a most 
melancholy  manner,  with  no  other  amusement 
than  that  which  he  derives  from  a book  or  two, 
or  occasionally  hunting  a leveret  with  his  spaniel. 

“ He  asked  me  for  counsel,  but  I had  none  to 
give  him,  and  could  only  weep  with  him.  At  last 
he  said,  6 Dear  Antonio,  I see  there  is  no  re- 
medy. You  say  your  master  is  below,  beg  him, 
I pray,  to  stay  till  to-morrow,  and  we  will  send 
for  the  maidens  of  the  neighbourhood,  and  for  a 


Ch.  XVI.] 


TO-MORROW  WE  DIE. 


351 


violin  and  a bagpipe,  and  we  will  dance  and 
cast  away  care  for  a moment.’  And  then  he  said 
something  in  old  Greek,  which  I scarcely  under- 
stood, but  which  I think  was  equivalent  to,  ‘ Let 
us  eat,  drink,  and  be  merry,  for  to-morrow  we 
die  !’ 

“ Eh  bien , mon  maitre , I told  him  that  you 
were  a serious  gentleman  who  never  took  any 
amusement,  and  that  you  were  in  a hurry.  Where- 
upon he  wept  again,  and  embraced  me  and  bade 
me  farewell.  And  now,  mon  maitre,  I have  told 
you  the  history  of  the  young  man  of  the  inn.” 

We  slept  at  Ribida  de  Sella,  and  the  next  day, 
at  noon,  arrived  at  Llanes.  Our  route  lay  be- 
tween the  coast  and  an  immense  range  of  moun- 
tains, which  rose  up  like  huge  ramparts  at  about 
a league’s  distance  from  the  sea.  The  ground 
over  which  we  passed  was  tolerably  level,  and 
seemingly  well  cultivated.  There  was  no  lack  of 
vines  and  trees,  whilst  at  short  intervals  rose  the 
cortijos  of  the  proprietors, — square  stone  build- 
ings surrounded  with  an  outer  wall.  Llanes  is 
an  old  town,  formerly  of  considerable  strength. 
In  its  neighbourhood  is  the  convent  of  San  Ci- 


352 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XVI. 


lorio,  one  of  the  largest  monastic  edifices  in  all 
Spain.  It  is  now  deserted,  and  stands  lone  and 
desolate  upon  one  of  the  peninsulas  of  the  Can- 
tabrian shore.  Leaving  Llanes,  we  soon  entered 
one  of  the  most  dreary  and  barren  regions  ima- 
ginable, a region  of  rock  and  stone,  where  nei- 
ther grass  nor  trees  were  to  be  seen.  Night 
overtook  us  in  these  places.  We  wandered  on, 
however,  until  we  reached  a small  village,  termed 
Santo  Colombo.  Here  we  passed  the  night,  in 
the  house  of  a carabineer  of  the  revenue,  a tall 
athletic  figure  who  met  us  at  the  gate  armed 
with  a gun.  He  was  a Castilian,  and  with  all 
that  ceremonious  formality  and  grave  politeness 
for  which  his  countrymen  were  at  one  time  so 
celebrated.  He  chid  his  wife  for  conversing 
with  her  handmaid  about  the  concerns  of  the 
house  before  us.  “ Barbara,”  said  he,  “ this  is 
not  conversation  calculated  to  interest  the  strange 
cavaliers ; hold  your  peace,  or  go  aside  with  the 
muchacha.”  In  the  morning  he  refused  any 
remuneration  for  his  hospitality.  “I  am  a Ca- 
ballero,” said  he,  “ even  as  yourselves.  It  is 
not  my  custom  to  admit  people  into  my  house 


Ch.  XVI.] 


SAN  VINCENTE. 


353 


for  the  sake  of  lucre.  I received  you  because 
you  were  benighted  and  the  posada  distant.” 

Rising  early  in  the  morning,  we  pursued  our 
way  through  a country  equally  stony  and  dreary 
as  that  which  we  had  entered  upon  the  preceding 
day.  In  about  four  hours  we  reached  San  Vin- 
cente, a large  dilapidated  town,  chiefly  inhabited 
by  miserable  fishermen.  It  retains,  however, 
many  remarkable  relics  of  former  magnificence: 
the  bridge,  which  bestrides  the  broad  and  deep 
firth,  on  which  stands  the  town,  has  no  less 
than  thirty-two  arches,  and  is  built  of  grey 
granite.  It  is  very  ancient,  and  in  some  part 
in  so  ruinous  a condition  as  to  be  dangerous. 

Leaving  San  Vincente  behind  us,  we  travelled 
for  some  leagues  on  the  sea-shore,  crossing  oc- 
casionally a narrow  inlet  or  firth.  The  country 
at  last  began  to  improve,  and  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Santillana  was  both  beautiful  and  fertile. 
About  a league  before  we  reached  the  country  of 
Gil  Bias,  we  passed  through  an  extensive  wood, 
in  which  were  rocks  and  precipices ; it  was 
exactly  such  a place  as  that  in  which  the  cave 
of  Rolando  was  situated,  as  described  in  the 


354 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XVI. 


novel.  This  wood  has  an  evil  name,  and  our 
guide  informed  us  that  robberies  were  occasionally 
committed  in  it.  No  adventure,  however,  befell 
us,  and  we  reached  Santillana  at  about  six  in  the 
evening. 

We  did  not  enter  the  town,  but  halted  at  a 
large  venta  or  posada  at  the  entrance,  before 
which  stood  an  immense  ash  tree.  We  had 
scarcely  housed  ourselves  when  a tremendous 
storm  of  rain  and  wind  commenced,  accompa- 
nied with  thunder  and  lightning,  which  continued 
without  much  interruption  for  several  hours,  and 
fhe  effects  of  which  were  visible  in  our  journey 
of  the  following  day,  the  streams  over  which  we 
passed  being  much  swollen,  and  several  trees 
lying  uptorn  by  the  wayside.  Santillana  contains 
four  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  six  short  leagues’ 
distance  from  Santander,  where  we  arrived  early 
the  next  day. 

Nothing  could  exhibit  a stronger  contrast  to 
the  desolate  tracts  and  the  half  ruined  towns 
through  which  we  had  lately  passed,  than  the 
bustle  and  activity  of  Santander,  which,  though 
it  stands  on  the  confines  of  the  Basque  pro- 


Ch.  XVI.] 


SANTANDER. 


355 


vinces,  the  stronghold  of  the  Pretender,  is  al- 
most the  only  city  in  Spain  which  has  not  suf- 
fered by  the  Carlist  wars.  Till  the  close  of  the 
last  century  it  was  little  better  than  an  obscure 
fishing  town,  but  it  has  of  late  years  almost  entirely 
engrossed  the  commerce  of  the  Spanish  transat- 
lantic possessions,  especially  of  the  Havannah. 
The  consequence  of  which  has  been,  that  whilst 
Santander  has  rapidly  increased  in  wealth  and 
magnificence,  both  Coruna  and  Cadiz  have  been 
as  rapidly  hastening  to  decay.  At  present  it 
possesses  a noble  quay,  on  which  stands  a line  of 
stately  edifices,  far  exceeding  in  splendour  the 
palaces  of  the  aristocracy  at  Madrid.  These  are 
built  in  the  French  style,  and  are  chiefly  occu- 
pied by  the  merchants.  The  population  of  San- 
tander is  estimated  at  sixty  thousand  souls. 

On  the  day  of  my  arrival  I dined  at  the  table 
d’hote  of  the  principal  inn,  kept  by  a Genoese. 
The  company  was  very  miscellaneous,  French, 
Germans,  and  Spaniards,  all  speaking  in  their 
respective  languages,  whilst  at  the  ends  of  the 
table,  confronting  each  other,  sat  two  Catalan 
merchants,  one  of  whom  weighed  nearly  twenty 


3 56 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XVI. 


stone,  grunting  across  the  board  in  their  harsh 
dialect.  Long,  however,  before  dinner  was  con- 
cluded, the  conversation  was  entired  engrossed 
and  the  attention  of  all  present  directed  to  an 
individual  who  sat  on  one  side  of  the  bulky 
Catalan.  He  was  a thin  man  of  about  the  middle 
height,  with  a remarkably  red  face,  and  something 
in  his  eyes  which,  if  not  a squint,  bore  a striking 
resemblance  to  it.  He  was  dressed  in  a blue 
military  frock,  and  seemed  to  take  much  more 
pleasure  in  haranguing  than  in  the  fare  which  was 
set  before  him.  He  spoke  perfectly  good  Spanish, 
yet  his  voice  betrayed  something  of  a foreign 
accent.  For  a long  time  he  descanted  with  im- 
mense volubility  on  war  and  all  its  circumstances, 
freely  criticising  the  conduct  of  the  generals,  both 
Carlist  and  Christinos,  in  the  present  struggle, 
till  at  last  he  exclaimed,  “Had  I but  twenty 
thousand  men  allowed  me  by  the  government,  I 
would  bring  the  war  to  a conclusion  in  six 
months.” 

“ Pardon  me,  Sir,”  said  a Spaniard  who  sat  at 
the  table,  “ the  curiosity  which  induces  me  to 
request  the  favour  of  your  distinguished  name.” 


Ch.  XVI.] 


AN  HARANGUE. 


357 


“ I am  Flinter,”  replied  the  individual  in  the 
military  frock,  “ a name  which  is  in  the  mouth 
of  every  man,  woman,  and  child  in  Spain.  I 
am  Flinter  the  Irishman,  just  escaped  from  the 
Basque  provinces  and  the  claws  of  Don  Carlos. 
On  the  decease  of  Ferdinand  I declared  for  Isa- 
bella, esteeming  it  the  duty  of  every  good  cava- 
lier and  Irishman  in  the  Spanish  service  to  do  so 
You  have  all  heard  of  my  exploits,  and  permit 
me  to  tell  you  they  would  have  been  yet  more 
glorious  had  not  jealousy  been  at  work  and 
cramped  my  means.  Two  years  ago  I was  de- 
spatched to  Estremadura,  to  organize  the  militias. 
The  bands  of  Gomez  and  Cabrera  entered  the 
province  and  spread  devastation  around.  They 
found  me,  however,  at  my  post ; and  had  I been 
properly  seconded  by  those  under  my  command, 
the  two  rebels  would  never  have  returned  to  their 
master  to  boast  of  their  success.  I stood  behind 
my  intrenchments.  A man  advanced  and  sum- 
moned us  to  surrender.  6 Who  are  you  ? ’ I de- 
manded. 6 I am  Cabrera,’  he  replied ; 6 and  I 
am  Flinter,’  I retorted,  flourishing  my  sabre;  6 re- 
tire to  your  battalions  or  you  will  forthwith  die  the 


358  THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN.  [Ch.  XVI. 

death.’  He  was  awed  and  did  as  I commanded. 
In  an  hour  we  surrendered.  I was  led  a prisoner 
to  the  Basque  provinces;  and  the  Carlists  re- 
joiced in  the  capture  they  had  made,  for  the 
name  of  Flinter  had  long  sounded  amongst  the 
Carlist  ranks.  I was  flung  into  a loathsome 
dungeon,  where  I remained  twenty  months.  I 
was  cold ; I was  naked ; but  I did  not  on  that 
account  despond,  my  spirit  was  too  indomitable 
for  such  weakness.  My  keeper  at  last  pitied  my 
misfortunes.  He  said  that  ‘ it  grieved  him  to  lee 
so  valiant  a man  perish  in  inglorious  confine- 
ment.’ We  laid  apian  to  escape  together;  dis- 
guises were  provided,  and  we  made  the  attempt. 
We  passed  unobserved  till  we  arrived  at  the  Car- 
list  lines  above  Bilbao  ; there  we  were  stopped. 
My  presence  of  mind,  however,  did  not  desert 
me.  I w&s  disguised  as  a carman,  as  a Catalan, 
and  the  coolness  of  my  answers  deceived  my  in- 
terrogators. We  were  permitted  to  pass,  and 
soon  were  safe  within  the  walls  of  Bilbao. 
There  was  an  illumination  that  night  in  the  town, 
for  the  lion  had  burst  his  toils,  Flinter  had 
escaped,  and  was  once  more  returned  to  reani- 


Ch.  XVI.]  FLINTER  THE  IRISHMAN. 


359 


mate  a drooping  cause.  I have  just  arrived  at 
Santander  on  my  way  to  Madrid,  where  I intend 
to  ask  of  the  government  a command,  with  twenty 
thousand  men.” 

Poor  Flinter ! a braver  heart  and  a more 
gasconading  mouth  were  surely  never  united  in 
the  same  body.  He  proceeded  to  Madrid,  and 
through  the  influence  of  the  British  ambassador, 
who  was  his  friend,  he  obtained  the  command 
of  a small  division,  with  which  he  contrived  to 
surprise  and  defeat,  ill  the  neighbourhood  of  To- 
ledo, a body  of  the  Carlists,  commanded  by 
Orejita,  whose  numbers  more  than  trebled  his 
own.  In  reward  for  this  exploit  he  was  perse- 
cuted by  the  government,  which,  at  that  time, 
was  the  moderado  or  juste  milieu,  with  the  most 
relentless  animosity ; the  prime  minister,  Ofalia, 
supporting  with  all  his  influence  numerous  and 
ridiculous  accusations  of  plunder  and  robbery 
brought  against  the  too  successful  general  by 
the  Carlist  canons  of  Toledo.  He  was  likewise 
charged  with  a dereliction  of  duty,  in  having 
permitted,  after  the  battle  of  Valdepeiias,  which 
he  likewise  won  in  the  most  gallant  manner, 


360 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XVI. 


the  Carlist  force  to  take  possession  of  the  mines 
of  Almaden,  although  the  government,  who  were 
bent  on  his  ruin,  had  done  all  in  their  power 
to  prevent  him  from  following  up  his  successes 
by  denying  him  the  slightest  supplies  and  rein- 
forcements. The  fruits  of  victory  thus  wrested 
from  him,  his  hopes  blighted,  a morbid  melan- 
choly seized  upon  the  Irishman ; he  resigned 
his  command,  and  in  less  than  ten  months  from 
the  period  when  I saw  him  at  Santander,  afforded 
his  dastardly  and  malignant  enemies  a triumph 
which  satisfied  even  them,  by  cutting  his  own 
throat  with  a razor. 

Ardent  spirits  of  foreign  climes,  who  hope  to 
distinguish  yourselves  in  the  service  of  Spain, 
and  to  earn  honours  and  rewards,  remember  the 
fate  of  Columbus,  and  of  another  as  brave  and 
as  ardent— Flinter ! 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


DEPARTURE  FROM  SANTANDER THE  NIGHT  ALARM, —THE 

BLACK  PASS. 

I had  ordered  two  hundred  Testaments  to  be 
sent  to  Santander  from  Madrid : I found,  how- 
ever, to  my  great  sorrow,  that  they  had  not 
arrived,  and  I supposed  that  they  had  either 
been  seized  on  the  way  by  the  Carlists,  or  that  my 
letter  had  miscarried.  I then  thought  of  apply- 
ing to  England  for  a supply,  but  I abandoned 
the  idea  for  two  reasons.  In  the  first  place,  I 
should  have  to  remain  idly  loitering,  at  least  a 
month,  before  I could  receive  them,  at  a place 
where  every  article  was  excessively  dear;  and, 
secondly,  I was  very  unwell,  and  unable  to  pro- 
cure medical  advice  at  Santander.  Ever  since  I 
left  Coruna,  1 had  been  afflicted  with  a terrible 
dysentery,  and  latterly  with  an  ophthalmia,  the 
result  of  the  other  malady.  I therefore  de- 
termined on  returning  to  Madrid.  To  effect  this, 

B 


VOL.  II. 


362 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN.  [Ch.  XVII. 


however,  seemed  no  very  easy  task.  Parties  of 
the  army  of  Don  Carlos,  which,  in  a partial 
degree,  had  been  routed  in  Castile,  were  hover- 
ing about  the  country  through  which  I should 
have  to  pass,  more  especially  in  that  part  called 
“ The  Mountains,”  so  that  all  communication  had 
ceased  between  Santander  and  the  southern  dis- 
tricts. Nevertheless,  I determined  to  trust  as 
usual  in  the  Almighty,  and  to  risk  the  danger.  I 
purchased,  therefore,  a small  horse,  and  sallied 
forth  with  Antonio. 

Before  departing,  however,  I entered  into  con- 
ference with  the  booksellers  as  to  what  they  should 
do  in  the  event  of  my  finding  an  opportunity  of 
sending  them  a stock  of  Testaments  from  Madrid; 
and,  having  arranged  matters  to  my  satisfaction, 
I committed  myself  to  Providence.  I will  not 
dwell  long  on  this  journey  of  three  hundred  miles. 
We  were  in  the  midst  of  the  fire,  yet,  strange  to 
say,  escaped  without  a hair  of  our  heads  being 
singed.  Robberies,  murders,  and  all  kinds  of 
atrocities  were  perpetrated  before,  behind,  and 
on  both  sides  of  us,  but  not  so  much  as  a dog 
barked  at  us,  though  in  one  instance  a plan  had 


Ch.  XVII.] 


THE  NIGHT  ALARM. 


363 


been  laid  to  intercept  us.  About  four  leagues 
from  Santander,  whilst  we  were  baiting  our  horses 
at  a village  hostelry,  I saw  a fellow  run  off  after 
having  held  a whispering  conversation  with  a 
boy  who  was  dealing  out  barley  to  us.  I in- 
stantly inquired  of  the  latter  what  the  man  had 
said  to  him,  but  only  obtained  an  evasive  answer. 
It  appeared  afterwards  that  the  conversation  was 
about  ourselves.  Two  or  three  leagues  farther 
there  was  an  inn  and  village  where  we  had  pro- 
posed staying,  and  indeed  had  expressed  our  in- 
tention of  doing  so ; but  on  arriving  there,  find- 
ing that  the  sun  was  still  far  from  its  bourne,  I 
determined  to  proceed  farther,  expecting  to  meet 
with  a resting  place  at  the  distance  of  a league  ; 
though  I was  mistaken,  as  we  found  none  until 
we  reached  Montaneda,  nine  leagues  and  a half 
from  Santander,  where  was  stationed  a small  de- 
tachment of  soldiers.  At  the  dead  of  night,  we 
were  aroused  from  our  sleep  by  a cry  that  the 
factious  were  not  far  off.  A messenger  had  ar- 
rived from  the  alcalde  of  the  village  where  we 
had  previously  intended  staying,  who  stated  that 
a party  of  Carlists  had  just  surprised  that  place, 

R 2 


364 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN.  [Ch.  XVII. 


and  were  searching  for  an  English  spy,  whom 
they  supposed  to  be  at  the  inn.  The  officer 
commanding  the  soldiers  upon  hearing  this,  not 
deeming  his  own  situation  a safe  one,  instantly 
drew  off  his  men,  falling  back  on  a stronger  party 
stationed  in  a fortified  village  near  at  hand.  As 
for  ourselves,  we  saddled  our  horses  and  con- 
tinued our  way  in  the  dark.  Had  the  Carlists 
succeeded  in  apprehending  me,  I should  instantly 
have  been  shot,  and  my  body  cast  on  the  rocks 
to  feed  the  vultures  and  wolves.  But  “it  was  not 
so  written,”  said  Antonio,  who,  like  many  of  his 
countrymen,  was  a fatalist.  The  next  night  we 
had  another  singular  escape : we  had  arrived  near 
the  entrance  of  a horrible  pass  called  “ El  puerto 
de  la  puente  de  las  tablas,”  or  the  pass  of  the 
bridge  of  planks,  which  wound  through  a black 
and  frightful  mountain,  on  the  farther  side  of 
which  was  the  town  of  Onas,  where  we  meant 
to  tarry  for  the  night.  The  sun  had  set  about 
a quarter  of  an  hour.  Suddenly  a man,  with 
his  face  covered  with  blood,  rushed  out  of  the 
pass.  “ Turn  back,  sir,”  he  said,  u in  the  name 
of  God ; there  are  murderers  in  that  pass ; 


Ch.  XVII.] 


THE  BLACK  PASS. 


they  have  just  robbed  me  of  my  mule,  and  all 
I possess,  and  I have  hardly  escaped  with  life 
from  their  hands.”  I scarcely  know  why,  but 
I made  him  no  answer,  and  proceeded ; indeed 
I was  so  weary  and  unwell  that  I cared  not 
what  became  of  me.  We  entered ; the  rocks 
rose  perpendicularly,  right  and  left,  entirely  in- 
tercepting the  scanty  twilight,  so  that  the  dark- 
ness of  the  grave,  or  rather  the  blackness  of  the 
valley  of  the  shadow  of  death  reigned  around  us, 
and  we  knew  not  where  we  went,  but  trusted  to 
the  instinct  of  the  horses,  who  moved  on  with 
their  heads  close  to  the  ground.  The  only  sound 
which  we  heard  was  the  plash  of  a stream,  which 
tumbled  down  the  pass.  I expected  every  mo- 
ment to  feel  a knife  at  my  throat,  but  “ it  was 
not  so  written .”  We  threaded  the  pass  with- 
out meeting  a human  being,  and  within  three 
quarters  of  an  hour  after  the  time  we  entered  it, 
we  found  ourselves  within  the  posada  of  the  town 
of  Ohas,  which  was  filled  with  troops  and  armed 
peasants  expecting  an  attack  from  the  grand 
Carlist  army,  which  was  near  at  hand. 


366 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XVII. 


Well,  we  reached  Burgos  in  safety;  we  reached 
Valladolid  in  safety;  we  passed  the  Guadarama 
in  safety;  and  were  at  length  safely  housed  in 
Madrid.  People  said  we  had  been  very  lucky ; 
Antonio  said,  “ It  was  so  written ;”  but  I say, 
Glory  be  to  the  Lord  for  his  mercies  vouchsafed 
to  us. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


STATE  OF  AFFAIRS  AT  MADRID.  — THE  NEW  MINISTRY.  — FOPE 

OF  ROME THE  BOOKSELLER  OF  TOLEDO.  — SWORD -BLADES 

HOUSES  OF  TOLEDO. — THE  FORLORN  GYPSY PROCEEDINGS  AT 

MADRID. — ANOTHER  SERVANT. 

During  my  journey  in  the  northern  provinces  of 
Spain,  which  occupied  a considerable  portion  of 
the  year  1837,  I had  accomplished  but  a slight 
portion  of  what  I proposed  to  myself  to  effect  in 
the  outset.  Insignificant  are  the  results  of  man’s 
labours  compared  with  the  swelling  ideas  of  his 
presumption ; something,  however,  had  been  ef- 
fected by  the  journey,  which  I had  just  con- 
cluded. The  New  Testament  of  Christ  was  now 
enjoying  a quiet  sale  in  the  principal  towns  of 
the  north,  and  I had  secured  the  friendly  in- 
terest and  cooperation  of  the  booksellers  of  those 
parts,  particularly  of  him  the  most  considerable 
of  them  all,  old  Rey  of  Compostella.  I had, 
moreover,  disposed  of  a considerable  number  of 
Testaments  with  my  own  hands,  to  private  indi- 


368 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XVIII. 


victuals,  entirely  of  the  lower  classes,  namely, 
muleteers,  carmen,  contrabandistas,  &c.,  so  that 
upon  the  whole  I had  abundant  cause  for  grati- 
tude and  thanksgiving. 

I did  not  find  our  affairs  in  a very  prosperous 
state  at  Madrid,  few  copies  having  been  sold  in 
the  booksellers’  shops,  yet  what  could  be  ration- 
ally expected  during  these  latter  times  ? Don 
Carlos,  with  a large  army,  had  been  at  the  gates  ; 
plunder  and  massacre  had  been  expected ; so 
that  people  were  too  much  occupied  in  forming 
plans  to  secure  their  lives  and  property,  to  give 
much  attention  to  reading  of  any  description. 

The  enemy,  however,  had  now  retired  to  his 
strongholds  in  Alava  and  Guipuscoa.  I hoped 
that  brighter  days  were  dawning,  and  that  the 
work,  under  my  own  superintendence,  would,  with 
God’s  blessing,  prosper  in  the  capital  of  Spain. 
How  far  the  result  corresponded  with  my  expect- 
ations will  be  seen  in  the  sequel. 

During  my  absence  in  the  north,  a total  change 
of  ministers  had  occurred.  The  liberal  party  had 
been  ousted  from  the  cabinet,  and  in  their  place 
had  entered  individuals  attached  to  the  moderado 


Ch.  XVIII.] 


THE  NEW  MINISTRY. 


369 


or  court  party:  unfortunately,  however,  for  my 
prospects,  they  consisted  of  persons  with  whom 
I had  no  acquaintance  whatever,  and  with  whom 
my  former  friends,  Galiano  and  Isturitz,  had  little 
or  no  influence.  These  gentlemen  were  now  re- 
gularly laid  on  the  shelf,  and  their  political  career 
appeared  to  be  terminated  for  ever. 

From  the  present  ministry  I could  expect  but 
little ; they  consisted  of  men,  the  greater  part  of 
whom  had  been  either  courtiers  or  employes  of 
the  deceased  King  Ferdinand,  who  were  friends 
to  absolutism,  and  by  no  means  inclined  to  do 
or  fo  favour  any  thing  calculated  to  give  offence 
to  the  court  of  Rome,  which  they  were  anxious 
to  conciliate,  hoping  that  eventually  it  might  be 
induced  to  recognise  the  young  queen,  not  as  the 
constitutional  but  as  the  absolute  Queen  Isabella 
the  Second. 

Such  was  the  party  which  continued  in  power 
throughout  the  remainder  of  my  sojourn  in  Spain, 
and  which  persecuted  me  less  from  rancour  and 
malice  than  from  policy.  It  was  not  until  the 
conclusion  of  the  war  of  the  succession  that  it 
lost  the  ascendancy,  when  it  sank  to  the  ground 

R 3 


370 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN.  [Ch.  XVIII. 


with  its  patroness  the  queen-mother,  before  the 
dictatorship  of  Espartero. 

The  first  step  which  I took  after  my  return  to 
Madrid,  towards  circulating  the  Scriptures,  was 
a very  bold  one.  It  was  neither  more  nor  less 
than  the  establishment  of  a shop  for  the  sale  of 
Testaments.  This  shop  was  situated  in  the  Calle 
del  Principe,  a respectable  and  well  frequented 
street  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Square  of 
Ceiwantes.  I furnished  it  handsomely  with  glass 
cases  and  chandeliers,  and  procured  an  acute 
Gallegan  of  the  name  of  Pepe  Calzado,  to  su- 
perintend the  business,  who  gave  me  weekly  a 
faithful  account  of  the  copies  sold. 

“ How  strangely  times  alter,”  said  I,  the  second 
day  subsequent  to  the  opening  of  my  establish- 
ment, as.  I stood  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
street,  leaning  against  the  Avail  with  folded  arms, 
surveying  my  shop,  on  the  windows  of  which  Avere 
painted  in  large  yellow  characters,  Despacho  de  la 
Socle  dad  Blblica  y E stranger  a ; u how  strangely 
times  alter ; here  have  I been  during  the  last 
eight  months  running  about  old  Popish  Spain, 
distributing  Testaments,  as  agent  of  what  the 


Ch.  XVIII.] 


POPE  OF  ROME. 


371 


Papists  call  an  heretical  society,  and  have  neither 
been  stoned  nor  burnt ; and  here  am  I now  in 
the  capital,  doing  that  which  one  would  think 
were  enough  to  cause  all  the  dead  inquisitors  and 
officials  buried  within  the  circuit  of  the  walls  to 
rise  from  their  graves  and  cry  abomination ; and 
yet  no  one  interferes  with  me.  Pope  of  Rome ! 
Pope  of  Rome ! look  to  thyself.  That  shop  may 
be  closed;  but  oh!  what  a sign  of  the  times,  that 
it  has  been  permitted  to  exist  for  one  day.  It 
appears  to  me,  my  Father,  that  the  days  of  your 
sway  are  numbered  in  Spain ; that  you  will  not 
be  permitted  much  longer  to  plunder  her,  to 
scoff  at  her,  and  to  scourge  her  with  scorpions,  as 
in  bygone  periods.  See  I not  the  hand  on  the 
wall?  See  I not  in  yonder  letters  a 6 Mene,  mene, 
Tekel,  Upharsin’?  Look  to  thyself,  Batuschca.” 

And  I remained  for  two  hours,  leaning  against 
the  wall,  staring  at  the  shop. 

A short  time  after  the  establishment  of  the  des- 
pacho  at  Madrid,  I once  more  mounted  the  saddle, 
and,  attended  by  Antonio,  rode  over  to  Toledo,  for 
the  purpose  of  circulating  the  Scriptures,  sending 
beforehand  by  a muleteer  a cargo  of  one  hundred 


372 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN.  [Ch.  XVIIL 


Testaments.  I instantly  addressed  myself  to  the 
principal  bookseller  of  the  place,  whom  from  the 
circumstance  of  his  living  in  a town  so  abounding 
with  canons,  priests,  and  ex-friars,  as  Toledo,  I 
expected  to  find  a Carlist,  or  a servile  at  least.  I 
was  never  more  mistaken  in  my  life  : on  entering 
the  shop,  which  was  very  large  and  commodious, 
I beheld  a stout  athletic  man,  dressed  in  a kind 
of  cavalry  uniform,  with  a helmet  on  his  head,  and 
an  immense  sabre  in  his  hand  : this  was  the  book- 
seller himself,  who  I soon  found  was  an  officer  in 
the  national  cavalry.  Upon  learning  who  I was, 
he  shook  me  heartily  by  the  hand,  and  said  that 
nothing  would  give  him  greater  pleasure  than 
taking  charge  of  the  books,  which  he  would  en- 
deavour to  circulate  to  the  utmost  of  his  ability. 

“ Will  not  your  doing  so  bring  you  into  odium 
with  the  clefgy  ? ” 

“ Ca!”  said  he;  “who  cares?  I am  rich,  and  so 
was  my  father  before  me.  I do  not  depend  on  them, 
they  cannot  hate  me  more  than  they  do  already, 
for  I make  no  secret  of  my  opinions.  I have  just 
returned  from  an  expedition,”  said  he  ; “ my  bro- 
ther nationals  and  myself  have,  for  the  last  three 


Ch.  XVIII.]  THE  BOOKSELLER  OF  TOLEDO. 


373 


days,  been  occupied  in  hunting  down  the  factious 
and  thieves  of  the  neighbourhood ; we  have  killed 
three  and  brought  in  several  prisoners.  Who 
cares  for  the  cowardly  priests  ? I am  a liberal, 
Don  Jorge,  and  a friend  of  your  countryman, 
Flinter.  Many  is  the  Carlist  guerilla-curate  and 
robber-friar  whom  I have  assisted  him  to  catch. 
I am  rejoiced  to  hear  that  he  has  just  been  ap- 
pointed captain-general  of  Toledo  ; there  will  be 
fine  doings  here  when  he  arrives,  Don  Jorge.  We 
will  make  the  clergy  shake  between  us,  I assure 
you.”  i 

Toledo  was  formerly  the  capital  of  Spain.  Its 
population  at  present  is  barely  fifteen  thousand 
souls,  though,  in  the  time  of  the  Romans,  and 
also  during  the  middle  ages,  it  is  said  to  have 
amounted  to  between  two  and  three  hundred 
thousand.  It  is  situated  about  twelve  leagues 
(forty  miles)  westward  of  Madrid,  and  is  built 
upon  a steep  rocky  hill,  round  which  flows 
the  Tagus,  on  all  sides  but  the  north.  It  still 
possesses  a great  many  remarkable  edifices,  not- 
withstanding that  it  has  long  since  fallen  into 
decay.  Its  cathedral  is  the  most  magnificent  of 


374 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN.  [Ch.  XVIII. 


Spain,  and  is  the  see  of  the  primate.  In  the 
tower  of  this  cathedral  is  the  famous  bell  of  To- 
ledo, the  largest  in  the  world  with  the  exception 
of  the  monster  bell  of  Moscow,  which  I have  also 
seen.  It  weighs  1543  arrobes,  or  37,032  pounds. 
It  has,  however,  a disagreeable  sound,  owing  to  a 
cleft  in  its  side.  Toledo  could  once  boast  the 
finest  pictures  in  Spain,  but  many  were  stolen  or 
destroyed  by  the  French  during  the  Peninsular 
war,  and  still  more  have  lately  been  removed  by 
order  of  the  government.  Perhaps  the  most  re- 
markable one  still  remains  ; I allude  to  that  which 
represents  the  burial  of  the  Count  of  Orgaz,  the 
masterpiece  of  Domenico,  the  Greek,  a most  ex- 
traordinary genius,  some  of  whose  productions 
possess  merit  of  a very  high  order.  The  picture 
in  question  is  in  the  little  parish  church  of  San 
Tome,  at  the  bottom  of  the  aisle,  on  the  left  side 
of  the  altar.  Could  it  be  purchased,  I should  say 
it  would  be  cheap  at  five  thousand  pounds. 

Amongst  the  many  remarkable  things  which 
meet  the  eye  of  the  curious  observer  at  Toledo, 
is  the  manufactory  of  arms,  where  are  wrought 
the  swords,  spears,  and  other  weapons  intended 


Ch.  XVIII.] 


SWORD-BLADES. 


375 


for  the  army,  with  the  exception  of  fire-arms, 
which  mostly  come  from  abroad. 

In  old  times,  as  is  well  known,  the  sword-blades 
of  Toledo  were  held  in  great  estimation,  and  were 
transmitted  as  merchandize  throughout  Christen- 
dom. The  present  manufactory,  or  fabrica,  as  it 
is  called,  is  a handsome  modern  edifice,  situated 
without  the  wall  of  the  city,  on  a plain  conti- 
guous to  the  river,  with  which  it  communicates  by  a 
small  canal.  It  is  said  that  the  water  and  the 
sand  of  the  Tagus  are  essential  for  the  proper 
tempering  of  the  swords.  I asked  some  of  the 
principal  workmen  whether,  at  the  present  day, 
they  could  manufacture  weapons  of  equal  value  to 
those  of  former  days,  and  whether  the  secret  had 
been  lost. 

“ Ca  !”  said  they,  “ the  swords  of  Toledo  were 
never  so  good  as  those  which  we  are  daily  mak- 
ing. It  is  ridiculous  enough ' to  see  strangers 
coming  here  to  purchase  old  swords,  the  greater 
part  of  which  are  mere  rubbish,  and  never  made 
at  Toledo,  yet  for  such  they  will  give  a large  price, 
whilst  they  would  grudge  two  dollars  for  this  jewel, 
which  was  made  but  yesterday thereupon  put- 


376 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XVIII. 


ting  into  my  hand  a middle-sized  rapier.  “ Your 
worship,”  said  they,  “ seems  to  have  a strong  arm, 
prove  its  temper  against  the  stone  wall; — thrust 
boldly  and  fear  not.” 

I have  a strong  arm  and  dashed  the  point  with 
my  utmost  force  against  the  solid  granite : my 
arm  was  numbed  to  the  shoulder  from  the  vio- 
lence of  the  concussion,  and  continued  so  for 
nearly  a week,  but  the  sword  appeared  not  to  be 
at  all  blunted,  or  to  have  suffered  in  any  respect. 

“ A better  sword  than  that,”  said  an  ancient 
workman,  a native  of  Old  Castile,  u never  trans- 
fixed Moor  out  yonder  on  the  sagra.” 

During  my  stay  at  Toledo,  I lodged  at  the  Po- 
sada de  los  Caballeros,  which  signifies  the  inn  of 
the  gentlemen,  which  name,  in  some  respects,  it 
certainly  well  deserved,  for  there  are  many  pa- 
laces far  less  magnificent  than  this  inn  of  Toledo. 
By  magnificence  it  must  not  be  supposed,  how- 
ever, that  I allude  to  costliness  of  furniture,  or 
any  kind  of  luxury  which  pervaded  the  culinary 
department.  The  rooms  were  as  empty  as  those 
of  Spanish  inns  generally  are,  and  the  fare,  though 
good  in  its  kind,  was  plain  and  homely;  but  I 


Ch.  XVIII.] 


HOUSES  OF  TOLEDO. 


377 


have  seldom  seen  a more  imposing  edifice.  It 
was  of  immense  size,  consisting  of  several  stories, 
and  was  built  something  in  the  Moorish  taste, 
with  a quadrangular  court  in  the  centre,  beneath 
which  was  an  immense  algibe  or  tank,  serving  as 
a reservoir  for  rain-water.  All  the  houses  in  To- 
ledo are  supplied  with  tanks  of  this  description, 
into  which  the  waters  in  the  rainy  season  flow 
from  the  roofs  through  pipes.  No  other  water  is 
used  for  drinking;  that  of  the  Tagus  not  being 
considered  salubrious,  is  only  used  for  purposes 
of  cleanliness,  being  conveyed  up  the  steep  nar- 
row streets  on  donkeys,  in  large  stone  jars.  The 
city  standing  on  a rocky  mountain,  has  no  wells. 
As  for  the  rain-water,  it  deposits  a sediment  in 
the  tank,  and  becomes  very  sweet  and  potable  : 
these  tanks  are  cleaned  out  twice  every  year. 
During  the  summer,  at  which  time  the  heat  in 
this  part  of  Spain  is  intense,  the  families  spend 
the  greater  part  of  the  day  in  the  courts,  which 
are  overhung  with  a linen  awning,  the  heat  of  the 
atmosphere  being  tempered  by  the  coolness  aris- 
ing from  the  tank  below,  which  answers  the  same 


378 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XVIII. 


purpose  as  the  fountain  in  the  southern  provinces 
of  Spain. 

I spent  about  a week  at  Toledo,  during  which 
time  several  copies  of  the  Testament  were  dis- 
posed of  in  the  shop  of  my  friend  the  bookseller. 
Several  priests  took  it  up  from  the  mostrador  on 
which  it  lay,  examined  it,  but  made  no  remarks ; 
none  of  them  purchased  it.  My  friend  showed 
me  through  his  house,  almost  every  apartment  of 
which  was  lined  from  roof  to  floor  with  books, 
many  of  which  were  highly  valuable.  He  told 
me  that  he  possessed  the  best  collection  in  Spain 
of  the  ancient  literature  of  the  country.  He  was, 
however,  less  proud  of  his  library  than  his  stud ; 
finding  that  I had  some  acquaintance  with  horses, 
his  liking  for  me  and  also  his  respect  considerably 
increased.  “ All  I have,”  said  he,  “ is  at  your 
service ; I see  you  are  a man  after  my  own  heart. 
When  you  are  disposed  to  ride  out  upon  the 
sagra,  you  have  only  to  apply  to  my  groom,  who 
will  forthwith  saddle  you  my  famed  Cordovese 
entero ; I purchased  him  from  the  stables  at  Aran- 
juez,  when  the  royal  stud  was  broken  up.  There 


Ch.  XVIII.]  THE  FORLORN  GYPSY. 


379 


is  but  one  other  man  to  whom  I would  lend  him, 
and  that  man  is  Flinter. 

At  Toledo  I met  with  a forlorn  Gypsy  woman 
and  her  son,  a lad  of  about  fourteen  years  of  age ; 
she  was  not  a native  of  the  place,  but  had  come 
from  La  Mancha,  her  husband  having  been  cast  into 
the  prison  of  Toledo  on  a charge  of  mule-stealing: 
the  crime  had  been  proved  against  him,  and  in  a 
few  days  he  was  to  depart  for  Malaga,  with  the  chain 
of  galley  slaves.  He  was  quite  destitute  of  money, 
and  his  wife  was  now  in  Toledo,  earning  a few 
cuartos  by  telling  fortunes  about  the  streets,  to 
support  him  in  prison.  She  told  me  that  it  was 
her  intention  to  follow  him  to  Malaga,  where  she 
hoped  to  be  able  to  effect  his  escape.  What  an 
instance  of  conjugal  affection;  and  yet  the  affec- 
tion here  was  all  on  one  side,  as  is  too  frequently 
the  case.  Her  husband  was  a worthless  scoun- 
drel, who  had  previously  abandoned  her  and  be- 
taken himself  to  Madrid,  where  he  had  long 
lived  in  concubinage  with  the  notorious  she-thug 
Aurora,  at  whose  instigation  he  had  committed 
the  robbery  for  which  he  was  now  held  in  dur- 


380 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XVIIf. 


ance.  “ Should  your  husband  escape  from  Ma» 
laga,  in  what  direction  will  he  fly?”  I demanded. 

“ To  the  chim  of  the  Corahai,  my  son ; to  the 
land  of  the  Moors,  to  be  a soldier  of  the  Moorish 
king.” 

“ And  what  will  become  of  yourself?”  I in- 
quired ; “ think  you  that  he  will  take  you  with 
him?” 

“ He  will  leave  me  on  the  shore,  my  son,  and 
as  soon  as  he  has  crossed  the  black  pawnee,  he 
will  forget  me  and  never  think  of  me  more.” 

“ And  knowing  his  ingratitude,  why  should 
you  give  yourself  so  much  trouble  about  him  ? ” 

“ Am  I not  his  romi,  my  son,  and  am  I not 
bound  by  the  law  of  the  Cales  to  assist  him  to 
the  last?  Should  he  return  from  the  land  of 
the  Corahai  at  the  end  of  a hundred  years,  and 
should  find ' me  alive,  and  should  say,  I am 
hungry,  little  wife,  go  forth  and  steal  or  tell 
bahi,  I must  do  it,  for  he  is  the  rom  and  I the 
romi.” 

On  my  return  to  Madrid,  I found  the  despacho 
still  open:  various  Testaments  had  been  sold, 


Ch.  XVI II.]  PROCEEDINGS  AT  MADRID.  381 

though  the  number  was  by  no  means  consider- 
able : the  work  had  to  labour  under  great  disad- 
vantage, from  the  ignorance  of  the  people  at 
large  with  respect  to  its  tenor  and  contents.  It 
was  no  wonder,  then,  that  little  interest  was  felt 
respecting  it.  To  call,  however,  public  attention 
to  the  despacho,  I printed  three  thousand  adver- 
tisements on  paper,  yellow,  blue,  and  crimson, 
with  which  I almost  covered  the  sides  of  the 
streets,  and  besides  this,  inserted  an  account  of 
it  in  all  the  journals  and  periodicals ; the  conse- 
quence was,  that  in  a short  time  almost  every  per- 
son in  Madrid  was  aware  of  its  existence.  Such 
exertions  in  London  or  Paris  would  probably 
have  ensured  the  sale  of  the  entire  edition  of  the 
New  Testament  within  a few  days.  In  Madrid, 
however,  the  result  was  not  quite  so  flattering;  for 
after  the  establishment  had  been  open  an  entire 
month,  the  copies  disposed  of  barely  amounted  to 
one  hundred. 

These  proceedings  of  mine  did  not  fail  to  cause 
a great  sensation : the  priests  and  their  partisans 
were  teeming  with  malice  and  fury,  which,  for 
some  time,  however,  they  thought  proper  to  ex- 


382 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XVIII. 


hibit  only  in  words ; it  being  their  opinion  that 
I was  favoured  by  the  ambassador  and  by  the 
British  government;  but  there  was  no  attempt, 
however  atrocious,  that  might  not  be  expected 
from  their  malignity ; and  were  it  right  and 
seemly  for  me,  the  most  insignificant  of  worms, 
to  make  such  a comparison,  I might  say,  like 
Paul  at  Ephesus,  I was  fighting  with  wild  beasts. 

On  the  last  day  of  the  year  1837,  my  servant 
Antonio  thus  addressed  me  : “ Mon  maitre,  it  is 
necessary  that  I leave  you  for  a time.  Ever 
since  we  have  returned  from  our  journeys,  I have 
become  unsettled  and  dissatisfied  with  the  house, 
the  furniture,  and  with  Donna  Marequita.  I 
have  therefore  engaged  myself  as  cook  in  the 
house  of  the  Count  of  * * * * *,  where  I am  to 
receive  four  dollars  per  month  less  than  what 
your  worship  gives  me.  I am  fond  of  change, 
though  it  be  for  the  worse.  Adieu,  mon  maitre, 
may  you  be  as  well  served  as  you  deserve ; 
should  you  chance,  however,  to  have  any  press- 
ing need  de  mes  soins , send  for  me  without  hesi- 
tation, and  I will  at  once  give  my  new  master 
warning,  if  I am  still  with  him,  and  come  to  you.” 


Ch.  XVIII.] 


ANOTHER  SERVANT. 


383 


Thus  was  I deprived  for  a time  of  the  services 
of  Antonio.  I continued  for  a few  days  without 
a domestic,  at  the  end  of  which  time  I hired  a 
certain  Cantabrian  or  Basque,  a native  of  the  vil- 
lage of  Hernani,  in  Guipuscoa,  who  was  strongly 
recommended  to  me. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


EUSCARRA.  — BASQUE  NOT  IRISH.  — SANSCRIT  AND  TARTAR 
DIALECTS.  — A VOWEL  LANGUAGE.  — POPULAR  POETRY.  — THE 
BASQUES.— THEIR  PERSONS. —BASQUE  WOMEN. 

I now  entered  upon  the  year  1838,  perhaps  the 
most  eventful  of  all  those  which  I passed  in 
Spain.  The  despacho  still  continued  open,  with 
a somewhat  increasing  sale.  Having  at  this  time 
little  of  particular  moment  with  which  to  occupy 
myself,  I committed  to  the  press  two  works, 
which  for  some  time  past  had  been  in  the  course 
of  preparation.  These  were  the  Gospel  of  St. 
Luke  in  the  Spanish  Gypsy  and  the  Euscarra 
languages. 

With  respect  to  the  Gypsy  Gospel,  I have 
little  to  say,  having  already  spoken  of  it  in  a 
former  work  (The  Zincali):  it  was  translated  by 
myself,  together  with  the  greater  part  of  the  New 
Testament,  during  my  long  intercourse  with  the 
Spanish  Gypsies.  Concerning  the  Luke  in  Eus- 


Ch.  XIX.] 


EUSCARRA. 


385 


carra,  however,  it  will  be  as  well  to  be  more 
particular,  and  to  avail  myself  of  the  present 
opportunity  to  say  a few  words  concerning  the 
language  in  which  it  was  written,  and  the  people 
for  whom  it  was  intended. 

The  Euscarra,  then,  is  the  proper  term  for  a 
certain  speech  or  language,  supposed  to  have 
been  at  one  time  prevalent  throughout  Spain, 
but  which  is  at  present  confined  to  certain  dis- 
tricts, both  on  the  French  and  Spanish  side  of 
the  Pyrenees,  which  are  laved  by  the  waters  of 
the  Cantabrian  Gulf  or  Bay  of  Biscay.  This  lan- 
guage is  commonly  known  as  the  Basque  or  Bis- 
cayan, which  words  are  mere  modifications  of  the 
word  Euscarra,  the  consonant  B having  been  pre- 
fixed for  the  sake  of  euphony.  Much  that  is  vague, 
erroneous,  and  hypothetical,  has  been  said  and 
written  concerning  this  tongue.  The  Basques  as- 
sert that  it  was  not  only  the  original  language  of 
Spain,  but  also  of  the  world,  and  that  from  it  all 
other  languages  are  derived ; but  the  Basques  are 
a very  ignorant  people,  and  know  nothing  of  the 
philosophy  of  language.  Very  little  importance, 
therefore,  need  be  attached  to  any  opinion  of 

s. 


VOL.  II. 


380  THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN.  [Ch.  XIX. 

theirs  on  such  a subject.  A few  amongst  them, 
however,  who  affect  some  degree  of  learning,  con- 
tend, that  it  is  neither  more  nor  less  than  a dialect 
of  the  Phenician,  and  that  the  Basques  are  the 
descendants  of  a Phenician  colony,  established 
at  the  foot  of  the  Pyrenees  at  a very  remote  pe- 
riod. Of  this  theory,  or  rather  conjecture,  as 
it  is  unsubstantiated  by  the  slightest  proof, 
it  is  needless  to  take  further  notice  than  to  ob- 
serve that,  provided  the  Phenician  language, 
as  many  of  the  truly  learned  have  supposed  and 
almost  proved,  was  a dialect  of  the  Hebrew,  or 
closely  allied  to  it,  it  were  as  unreasonable  to  sup- 
pose that  the  Basque  is  derived  from  it,  as  that 
the  Kamschatdale  and  Cherokee  are  dialects  of 
the  Greek  or  Latin. 

There  is,  however,  another  opinion  with  re- 
spect to  the  Basque  which  deserves  more  especial 
notice,  from  the  circumstance  of  its  being  exten- 
sively entertained  amongst  the  literati  of  various 
countries  of  Europe,  more  especially  England. 
1 allude  to  the  Celtic  origin  of  this  tongue,  and 
its  close  connexion  with  the  most  cultivated  of 
all  the  Celtic  dialects,  the  Irish.  People  who 


Ch.  XIX.] 


BASQUE  NOT  IRISH. 


387 


pretend  to  be  well  conversant  with  the  subject, 
have  even  gone  so  far  as  to  assert,  that  so  little 
difference  exists  between  the  Basque  and  Irish 
tongues,  that  individuals  of  the  two  nations,  when 
they  meet  together,  find  no  difficulty  in  under- 
standing each  other,  with  no  other  means  of  com- 
munication than  their  respective  languages  ; in  a 
word,  that  there  is  scarcely  a greater  difference 
between  the  two,  than  between  the  French  and 
the  Spanish  Basque.  Such  similarity,  however, 
though  so  strongly  insisted  upon,  by  no  means 
exists  in  fact,  and  perhaps  in  the  whole  of  Europe 
it  would  be  difficult  to  discover  two  languages 
which  exhibit  fewer  points  of  mutual  resemblance 
than  the  Basque  and  Irish. 

The  Irish,  like  most  other  European  languages, 
is  a dialect  of  the  Sanscrit,  a remote  one,  as  may 
well  be  supposed.  The  corner  of  the  western 
world  in  which  it  is  still  preserved  being,  of  all 
countries  in  Europe,  the  most  distant  from  the 
proper  home  of  the  parent  tongue.  It  is  still,  how- 
ever, a dialect  of  that  venerable  and  most  original 
speech,  not  so  closely  resembling  it,  it  is  true,  as 
the  English,  Danish,  and  those  which  belong  to 

s' 2 


388 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIX. 


what  is  called  the  Gothic  family,  and  far  less 
than  those  of  the  Sclavonian  ; for  the  nearer  we  ap- 
proach to  the  East,  in  equal  degree  the  assimilation 
of  languages  to  this  parent  stock  becomes  more 
clear  and  distinct;  but  still  a dialect,  agreeing 
with  the  Sanscrit  in  structure,  in  the  arrangement 
of  words,  and  in  many  instances  in  the  words  them- 
selves, which,  however  modified,  may  still  be  re- 
cognised as  Sanscrit.  But  what  is  the  Basque, 
and  to  what  family  does  it  properly  pertain  ? 

To  two  great  Asiatic  languages,  all  the  dia- 
lects spoken  at  present  in  Europe  may  be  traced. 
These  two,  if  not  now  spoken,  still  exist  in 
books,  and  are,  moreover,  the  languages  of  two 
of  the  principal  religions  of  the  East.  I allude  to 
the  Tibetian  and  Sanscrit — the  sacred  languages 
of  the  followers  of  Buddh  and  Bramah.  These 
tongues,  though  they  possess  many  words  in 
common,  which  is  easily  to  be  accounted  for  by 
their  close  proximity,  are  properly  distinct,  being 
widely  different  in  structure.  In  what  this  dif- 
ference consists,  I have  neither  time  nor  in- 
clination to  state ; suffice  it  to  say,  that  the 
Celtic,  Gothic,  and  Sclavonian  dialects  in  Europe 


Ch.  XIX.]  SANSCRIT  AND  TARTAR  DIALECTS.  389 

belong  to  the  Sanscrit  family,  even  as  in  the 
East  the  Persian,  and  to  a less  degree  the  Arabic, 
Hebrew,  &c. ; whilst  to  the  Tibetian  or  Tartar 
family  in  Asia  pertain  the  Mandchou  and  Mon- 
golian, the  Calmuc  and  the  Turkish  of  the  Cas- 
pian sea ; and  in  Europe,  the  Hungarian  and  the 
Basque  partially . 

Indeed  this  latter  language  is  a strange  ano- 
maly, so  that  upon  the  whole  it  is  less  difficult  to 
say  what  it  is  not,  than  what  it  is.  It  abounds 
with  Sanscrit  words  to  such  a degree  that  its 
surface  seems  strewn  with  them.  Yet  would  it 
be  wrong  to  term  it  a Sanscrit  dialect,  for  in  the 
collocation  of  these  words  the  Tartar  form  is 
most  decidedly  observable.  A considerable  pro- 
portion of  Tartar  words  is  likewise  to  be  found 
in  this  language,  though  perhaps  not  in  equal 
number  to  the  terms  derived  from  the  Sanscrit. 
Of  these  Tartar  etymons  I shall  at  present  con- 
tent myself  with  citing  one,  though,  if  necessary, 
it  were  easy  to  adduce  hundreds.  This  word 
is  Jauna , or  as  it  is  pronounced,  Khauna , a 
word  in  constant  use  amongst  the  Basques,  and 


390 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIX. 


which  is  the  Khan  of  the  Mongols  and  Mandchous, 
and  of  the  same  signification — Lord . 

Having  closely  examined  the  subject  in  all  its 
various  bearings,  and  having  weighed  what  is  to 
be  said  on  one  side  against  what  is  to  be  ad- 
vanced on  the  other,  I am  inclined  to  rank  the 
Basque  rather  amongst  the  Tartar  than  the  Sanscrit 
dialects.  Whoever  should  have  an  opportunity 
of  comparing  the  enunciation  of  the  Basques 
and  Tartars  would,  from  that  alone,  even  if  he 
understood  them  not,  come  to  the  conclusion 
that  their  respective  languages  were  formed  on 
the  same  principles.  In  both  occur  periods 
seemingly  interminable,  during  which  the  voice 
gradually  ascends  to  a climax,  and  then  gradually 
sinks  down. 

I have  spoken  of  the  surprising  number  of 
Sanscrit  words  contained  in  the  Basque  language, 
specimens  of  some  of  which  will  be  found  below. 
It  is  remarkable  enough,  that  in  the  greater  part  of 
the  derivatives  from  the  Sanscrit,  the  Basque  has 
dropped  the  initial  consonant,  so  that  the  word 
commences  with  a vowel.  The  Basque,  indeed, 


Ch.  XIX.] 


A VOWEL  LANGUAGE. 


391 


may  be  said  to  be  almost  a vowel  language ; the 
number  of  consonants  employed  being  compara- 
tively few : perhaps  eight  words  out  of  ten  com- 
mence and  terminate  with  a vowel,  owing  to  which 
it  is  a language  to  the  highest  degree  soft  and 
melodious,  far  excelling  in  this  respect  any 
other  language  in  Europe,  not  even  excepting 
the  Italian. 

Here  follow  a few  specimens  of  Basque  words 
with  the  Sanscrit  roots  in  juxta  position  : — 


BASQUE. 

SANSCRIT. 

Ardoa 

Sandhana 

Wine. 

Arratsa 

Ratri 

Night . 

Beguia 

Akshi 

Eye. 

Choria 

Chiria 

Bird . 

Chacurra 

Cucura 

Dog. 

Erreguina 

Rani 

Queen. 

Icusi 

Iksha 

To  see. 

Iru 

Treya 

Three. 

Jan  (Khan) 

Khana 

To  eat . 

Uria 

Puri 

City. 

Urruti 

Dura 

Far. 

Such  is  the  tongue  in  which  I brought  out 
Saint  Luke’s  Gospel  at  Madrid.  The  translation 
I procured  originally  from  a Basque  physician 


892 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Gh.  XIX. 


of  the  name  of  Oteiza.  Previous  to  being  sent  to 
the  press,  the  version  had  lain  nearly  two  years  in 
my  possession,  during  which  time,  and  particu- 
larly during  my  travels,  I lost  no  opportunity  of 
submitting  it  to  the  inspection  of  those  who  were 
considered  competent  scholars  in  the  Euscarra. 
It  did  not  entirely  please  me ; but  it  was  in  vain 
to  seek  for  a better  translation. 

In  my  early  youth  I had  obtained  a slight  ac- 
quaintance with  the  Euscarra,  as  it  exists  in 
books.  This  acquaintance  I considerably  in- 
creased during  my  stay  in  Spain  ; and  by  oc- 
casionally mingling  with  Basques,  was  enabled  to 
understand  the  spoken  language  to  a certain  ex- 
tent, and  even  to  speak  it,  but  always  with  con- 
siderable hesitation  ; for  to  speak  Basque,  even 
tolerably,  it  is  necessary  to  have  lived  in  the 
country  from,  a very  early  period.  So  great  are 
the  difficulties  attending  it,  and  so  strange  are  its 
peculiarities,  that  it  is  very  rare  to  find  a foreigner 
possessed  of  any  considerable  skill  in  the  oral  lan- 
guage, and  the  Spaniards  consider  the  obstacles 
so  formidable  that  they  have  a proverb  to  the  ef- 


Ch.  XIX.] 


POPULAR  POETRY. 


393 


feet  that  Satan  once  lived  seven  years  in  Biscay, 
and  then  departed,  finding  himself  unable  either 
to  understand  or  to  make  himself  understood. 

There  are  few  inducements  to  the  study  of  this 
language.  In  the  first  place,  the  acquisition  of  it 
is  by  no  means  necessary  even  to  those  who  reside 
in  the  countries  where  it  is  spoken ; the  Spanish 
being  generally  understood  throughout  the  Basque 
provinces  pertaining  to  Spain,  and  the  French  in 
those  pertaining  to  France. 

In  the  second  place,  neither  dialect  is  in  pos- 
session of  any  peculiar  literature  capable  of  re- 
paying the  toil  of  the  student.  There  are  various 
books  extant  both  in  French  and  Spanish  Basque, 
but  these  consist  entirely  of  Popish  devotion,  and 
are  for  the  most  part  translations. 

It  will,  perhaps,  here  be  asked  whether  the 
Basques  do  not  possess  popular  poetry,  like  most 
other  nations,  however  small  and  inconsiderable. 
They  have  certainly  no  lack  of  songs,  ballads, 
and  stanzas,  but  of  a character  by  no  means  en- 
titled to  the  appellation  of  poetry.  I have  noted 
down  from  recitation,  a considerable  portion  of 
what  they  call  their  poetry,  but  the  only  tolerable 


394 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIX. 


specimen  of  verse  which  I ever  discovered  amongst 
them  was  the  following  stanza,  which,  after  all,  is 
not  entitled  to  very  high  praise : — 

“ Ichasoa  urac  aundi, 

Estu  ondoric  agueri — 

Pasaco  ninsaqueni  andic 
Maitea  icustea  gatic.” 

i.  e.  “ The  waters  of  the  sea  are  vast,  and  their 
bottom  cannot  be  seen ; but  over  them  I will  pass, 
that  I may  behold  my  love.” 

The  Basques  are  a singing  rather  than  a 
poetical  people.  Notwithstanding  the  facility  with 
which  their  tongue  lends  itself  to  the  composition 
of  verse,  they  have  never  produced  among  them 
a poet  with  the  slightest  pretensions  to  reputation; 
but  their  voices  are  singularly  sweet,  and  they  are 
l^own  to  excel  in  musical  composition.  It  is  the 
opinion  of  a certain  author,  the  Abbe  D’llharce, 
who  has  written  about  them,  that  they  derived 
the  name  Cantabri , by  which  they  were  known 
to  the  Romans,  from  Kliantor-ber , signifying 
sweet  singers.  They  possess  much  music  of 
their  own,  some  of  which  is  said  to  be  exceed- 
ingly ancient.  Of  this  music  specimens  were 


Ch.  XIX.]  THE  BASQUES. — THEIR  PERSONS.  395 

published  at  Donostian  (San  Sebastian)  in  the 
year  1826,  edited  by  a certain  Juan  Ignacio 
Iztueta.  These  consist  of  wild  and  thrilling 
marches,  to  the  sound  of  which  it  is  believed 
that  the  ancient  Basques  were  in  the  habit  of  de- 
scending from  their  mountains  to  combat  with  the 
Romans,  and  subsequently  with  the  Moors.  Whilst 
listening  to  them  it  is  easy  to  suppose  oneself 
in  the  close  vicinity  of  some  desperate  encoun- 
ter. We  seem  to  hear  the  charge  of  cavalry 
on  the  sounding  plain,  the  clash  of  swords,  and 
the  rushing  of  men  down  the  gorges  of  hills. 
This  music  is  accompanied  with  words,  but  such 
words ! Nothing  can  be  imagined  more  stupid, 
commonplace,  and  uninteresting.  So  far  from 
being  martial,  they  relate  to  every-day  inci- 
dents, and  appear  to  have  no  connexion  what- 
ever with  the  music.  They  are  evidently  of 
modern  date. 

In  person  the  Basques  are  of  the  middle  size, 
and  are  active  and  athletic.  They  are  in  general 
of  fair  complexions  and  handsome  features,  and 
in  appearance  bear  no  slight  resemblance  to 
certain  Tartar  tribes  of  the  Caucasus.  Their 


396 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIX. 


bravery  is  unquestionable,  and  they  are  consi- 
dered as  the  best  soldiery  belonging  to  the  Spa- 
nish crown : a fact  highly  corroborative  of  the 
supposition  that  they  are  of  Tartar  origin,  the 
Tartars  being  of  all  races  the  most  warlike, 
and  amongst  whom  the  most  remarkable  con- 
querors have  been  produced.  They  are  faith- 
ful and  honest,  and  capable  of  much  disin- 
terested attachment ; kind  and  hospitable  to 
strangers ; all  of  which  points  are  far  from  being 
at  variance  with  the  Tartar  character.  But  they 
are  somewhat  dull,  and  their  capacities  are  by 
no  means  of  a high  order,  and  in  these  respects 
they  again  resemble  the  Tartars. 

No  people  on  earth  are  prouder  than  the 
Basques,  but  theirs  is  a kind  of  republican  pride. 
They  have  no  nobility  amongst  them,  and  no 
one  will  acknowledge  a superior.  The  poorest 
carman  is  as  proud  as  the  governor  of  Tolosa. 
“ He  is  more  powerful  than  I,”  he  will  say,  “ but 
I am  of  as  good  blood ; perhaps  hereafter  I may 
become  a governor  myself.”  They  abhor  ser- 
vitude, at  least  out  of  their  own  country ; and 
though  circumstances  frequently  oblige  them  to 


Ch.  XIX.] 


BASQUE  WOMEN. 


397 


seek  masters,  it  is  very  rare  to  find  them  fill- 
ing the  places  of  common  domestics ; they  are 
stewards,  secretaries,  accountants,  &c.  True  it 
is,  that  it  was  my  own  fortune  to  obtain  a Basque 
domestic  ; but  then  he  always  treated  me  more 
as  an  equal  than  a master,  would  sit  down  in  my 
presence,  give  me  his  advice  unasked,  and  enter 
into  conversation  with  me  at  all  times  and  occa- 
sions. Did  I check  him  ! Certainly  not ! For 
in  that  case  he  would  have  left  me,  and  a more 
faithful  creature  T never  knew.  His  fate  was  a 
mournful  one,  as  will  appear  in  the  sequel. 

T have  said  that  the  Basques  abhor  servitude, 
and  are  rarely  to  be  found  serving  as  domestics 
amongst  the  Spaniards.  I allude,  however, 
merely  to  the  males.  The  females,  on  the  con- 
trary, have  no  objection  whatever  to  enter  houses 
as  servants.  Women,  indeed,  amongst  the 
Basques  are  not  looked  upon  with  all  the  esteem 
which  they  deserve,  and  are  considered  as  fitted 
for  little  else  than  to  perform  menial  offices,  even 
as  in  the  East,  where  they  are  viewed  in  the  light 
of  servants  and  slaves.  The  Basque  females 
differ  widely  in  character  from  the  men;  they 


398 


THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN. 


[Ch.  XIX. 


are  quick  and  vivacious,  and  have  in  general 
much  more  talent.  They  are  famous  for  their 
skill  as  cooks,  and  in  most  respectable  houses  of 
Madrid  a Biscayan  female  may  be  found  in  the 
kitchen,  queen  supreme  of  the  culinary  depart- 
ment. 


END  OF  VOL.  II. 


G.  Woodfall  and  Son,  Printers,  Angel  Court,  Skinner  Street,  London. 


Quarto,  21 2s,  cloth,  or  21 12-s  6d,  in  morocco, 

ANCIENT  SPANISH  BALLADS, 

HISTORICAL  AND  ROMANTIC. 

Translated,  with  Notes,  by  J.  G.  LOCKHART,  Esq., 

And  embellished  in  a characteristic,  but  perfectly  original  manner, 

WITH  ILLUMINATED  TITLES,  COLOURED  BORDERS,  ORNAMENTAL 
LETTERS,  VIGNETTES,  ETC. 


LiST  OF  THE 

Don  Roderick  after  Battle. 

Don  Roderick  and  Hermit. 

The  Gatherer. 

The  Oath. 

Saldana  in  Confinement. 

Bernardo  at  his  Father’s  Tomb. 
Bernardo’s  Defiance  of  Alphonso. 
Saint  Iago. 

Gonzales  and  Infanta. 

Mudara  meeting  Rodrigo. 

Knight  on  horseback. 

Cid’s  Departure. 

The  Cid. 

Bavieca. 

Bridal  Procession. 

Cid’s  Body  on  Bavieca. 

Cid  and  Bavieca. 

Horses. 

Crosier  and  Sword. 

Cid  crossing  the  Sea.  Seven  Chairs. 
Cid  upsetting  Papal  Chair. 

Cid’s  submission  to  Pope. 

Cross  and  Keys. 

Garch  Perez  and  Seven  Moors. 
Moorish  Arms. 

Death  of  St.  Iago. 

Block  and  Executioner’s  Knife. 

Don  Pedro  and  Don  Henry. 

Don  Pedro  dead. 

Knight  on  horseback. 

Maria  de  Padilla. 

Sabre  and  Shield. 

Moorish  Court. 

Departure  of  Cavalcade. 

Retreat  from  Jaen. 

Christians  enter  Granada. 

Boabdil  with  the  Keys. 

View  of  Granada. 

Moorish  Ambuscade. 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Death  of  Don  Alonzo. 

Galleys  at  Tagus. 

Bull  Fight  of  Granada. 

Dying  Bull. 

Moorish  Weapons. 

Xarifa  and  Cushion. 

Zara  at  Well. 

Moorish  Palace. 
Tournament. 

Gayferos. 

Melisendra’s  Descent. 

Tower  of  Sansuena. 

The  Dream. 

Roncesvalles. 

Guarinos’  Attack. 

Christian  and  Moor. 

Knight  after  Chace. 
Cavalcade  in  Forest. 

Death  of  Don  Quadros. 
Galley  at  Sunrise. 

Maidens  decorating  the  Ram. 
Vine  and  Olive. 

Capture  of  Juliana. 

Maiden  watching  Galleys. 
Wandering  Knight. 

Serenade. 

Captive  Knight. 

Knight  meeting  the  Palmer. 
Spanish  Captive. 

Sinking  of  Corsair’s  Galley. 
Infanta  Solisa. 

King  and  Infanta. 

King  and  Count  Alarcos. 
Departure  of  the  Count. 
Count  Alarcos  at  his  Home. 
Alarcos  and  Countess. 
Countess  praying. 

Death  of  Countess. 


“ A more  appropriately  as  well  as  beautifully  embellished  volume  never  was 
offered  to  the  world.  The  text  throughout  is  accompanied  with  heraldic  and 
ornamental  embellishments,  with  views  of  localities  and  representations  of 
subjects,  which  present  an  admirable  commentary  on  the  stirring  stanzas.” — 
Edinburgh  Review. 


JOHN  MURRAY,  ALBEMARLE  STREET. 


LATELY  PUBLISHED  BY  MR.  MURRAY. 


I. 

THREE  MONTHS’  PEDESTRIAN  WANDERINGS 
amidst  the  wildest  Scenes  of  the  FRENCH  and  SPANISH 
MOUNTAINS,  in  the  Summer  of  1842.  By  T.  Clifton 
Paris,  B.A.  With  Sketches  by  the  Author.  Post8vo,  105.6c/. 

II. 

CAIRO,  PETRA,  and  DAMASCUS.  From  original  Notes 
made  during  a Tour  in  those  Countries.  By  John  Kinnear, 
Esq.  Post  8vo,  95.  6c/. 

III. 

LETTERS  from  the  SHORES  of  the  BALTIC.  By  a 
Lady.  Second  Edition . With  20  Etchings.  2 vols.  post  8vo, 
205. 

IV. 

RESEARCHES  in  ASIA  MINOR,  PONTUS,  and  AR- 
MENIA, with  some  Account  of  their  Antiquities  and  Geology. 
By  W.  I.  Hamilton,  Esq.,  M.P.,  Secretary  to  the  Geological 
Society.  With  Map  and  Engravings.  2 vols.  8vo,  385. 

V. 

THE  NESTORIANS,  or  LOST  TRIBES;  their  Manners, 
Customs,  and  Ceremonies  : with  Sketches  of  Travel  in  Ancient 
Assyria,  Armenia,  Media,  and  Mesopotamia.  By  Asahel 
Grant,  M.D.  Second  Edition.  Fcap.  8vo,  6s. 

VI. 

A HISTORY  of  INDIA.  The  Hindoo  and  Mahomedan 
Periods.  By  the  Hon.  Mounstuart  Elphinstone.  Second 
Edition.  With  a Map.  2 vols.  8vo,  305. 

VII. 

A PERSONAL  NARRATIVE  of  a JOURNEY  to  the 
SOURCE  of  the  RIVER  OXUS,  by  the  Indus,  Kabul,  and 
Badakhshan.  By  Lieut.  John  Wood,  Indian  Navy. 
With  a Map.  8vo,  145. 

VIII. 

NARRATIVE  of  a JOURNEY  to  CABOOL.  By  the  late 
Sir  Alexander  Burnes.  Second  Edition.  With  numerous 
Plates.  8vo,  185. 

IX. 

THE  PRIVATE  LIFE,  MANNERS,  and  CUSTOMS  of 
the  ANCIENT  EGYPTIANS,  derived  from  the  study  of 
Hieroglyphics,  Sculpture,  Paintings,  and  other  Works  of  Art, 
still  existing,  compared  with  the  Accounts  of  Ancient  Authors. 
By  Sir  Gardner  Wilkinson.  Second  Edition.  With  600 
Illustrations.  6 vols.  8vo,  61.  6s. 


